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If the piston on the rear brake gets dirty it will not retract properly and your pads will wear out prematurely, or worst case scenario, heat up, cause your fluid to boil and lock up your rear end in the middle of a high speed sweeper. I suspect that our bikes when new still have some packing grease or something that attracts dirt like a magnet to the piston. I simply pulled the pads, and I believe the dust cover and cleaned what I could of the piston without popping it out. I used silicone spray. WARNING whatever you do, keep the spray off of the pads and the disks. It is a good idea to clean the disk with brake cleaner after reassembly. After cleaning the rear brake piston, my rear brake has hardly groaned when backing out of the garage. And pad life is now much greater than two tires. The original pads were dangerously low at 10000miles. I replaced at 16000 even though they were less than halfway worn. At 23,000 they had a lot of wear left in them. Another important detail is to ensure that you have adequate freeplay at the rear brake lever. I would recommend at least 5mm.

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Al, Do you have more details on the out of spec FBF crossovers? I have heard of many more problems with the Stucchi crossovers, of course many more Stucchis than FBFs appear to be sold. Notably the criticism of the Stucchi straightness comes from you, JRT, and Ratchethack. The only thing bad that I have heard about the FBF crossovers is on the ones for the Guzzi cruisers and not for the spine frame bike's crossovers. I have seen no evidence that the FBF crossover produces any less power. And it is alot cheaper, and from what you say, possibly lighter.

Notice that the Mistral caused leaness but he did not tune for power. The leaness seems to me to be potential power, just waiting for activation through enrichment. So, the results should be similar to Doug Lofgren's. I don't think one can generalize about H-Pipes. The FBF has dyno'd very close to the Stucchi, at least with FBF mufflers.

Ay! who you calling an old fart, you cheesehead Most of us are under 70! But yah, good point, it is nice to see an under 30 on the list. Welcome aboard, Ben! Does your factory give out free samples?

Thanks for the tip poh! I have been waiting four weeks for my switch. The parts guy at the Ducati, Aprillia, Guzzi shop did not have one in stock and could not find a match from a Ducati. So, off to Radio Shack! PS Kraz, when you test the switch, check to see if the problem is intermittent. ie. Repeat the test ten, twenty, fifty or as many times as needed. Sometimes my switch works and sometimes it does NOT.

This gets more and more confusing Jaap got excellent results with the Mistral crossover, indicating excellent power in mid and high rpms, but this could have been how it combined with his mufflers. Doug Lofgren's test show the Mistral improved midrange at the expense of top end. The result that Al linked to show the Mistral being very close to stock. And the FBF shows great improvement in the midrange, much like the Stucchi. The FBF is an H pipe. Not as pretty as the Mistral or Stucchi (judging by the pictures) But apparently an excellent performer.

Oh, and thank you Rob, too. I was too busy writing to see your post. That confirms it for me, that 350mv is about where one should be given the other settings. The difference in the air screws and the idle speed between Rob's and Randy's bike seems to be consistant.

Thanks Randy, That is just what I wanted to know. It confirms that the 525mv MAY be too high. If you had the valves set to raceco specs, the idle at 800rpms, or the air screws open alot wider it would raise some doubt about using the 350mv at idle spec. Setting the TPS above 500mv seems like a lousy way to richen up the mixture as the TPS maxs out well before WOT, so one won't be enrichening anything above something 80% throttle. The PCIII of course is a much better way to get the mixture right. One might also use the 500mv spec if the valves were set to US spec with idle above 1200rpm. Something I would not do. The bike drops into first so much more nicely if the idle is low. I keep mine at about 900-1000 veglia rpms, screws out about 1.5 turns, and valves to world. Since my idle is lower than yours, my 260mv reading may not be to far off. But I should set it properly one of these days, I just hate probing wires and have been planning soldering in a pair of access wires to the tps. Thanks

I have not shorted the clutch switch but I have eliminated the sidestand switch. To do so is also pretty easy. Keep in mind that disabling the sidestand switch is hazardous. If you drive off with the sidestand down you will likely crash. There are many ways to do it. Basically all you have to do is permanently connect the two wires that go to the switch. Here are the steps I took: 1) Turn off the ignition. 2) Pull the tank. 3) Follow the wire from the sidestand switch up to a two wire connector. 4) Cut the two wires just past the connector. (eliminating the connector, eliminates a point of potential failure) 5) Remove the pair of connectors and the switch. (The bike now looks cleaner!) 6) Splice the two wires and insulate. (I stripped the wires about 10mm, twisted the wires together, soldered, sealed heat shrink tubing, and wrapped with electrial tape.) 7) Warning! If you drive off with the kickstand down you may die and or injur yourself, your passenger, and worst of all damage your Guzzi!!!! Perhaps a better solution would be to wire it so that if the bike was in gear, the clutch was out, and the stand was down, your horn would go off instead of your engine dying.

And to test the Neutral Switch is pretty easy . The connector to it is right under the starter. It is simply a ground switch. So if you are neutral, the terminal should be grounded and if you are in gear the terminal should lose ground. Just pull the rubber protector off the switch terminal, hook up a continuity tester with one lead on the terminal and one lead to a good ground. Go in and out of neutral several times to make sure the test is consistant. An optional way to test is to just pull the rubber protector off, ground out the terminal with a wire with alligator clips at each end. Turn on the ignition and you should see a neutral light regardless of what gear you are in. If you do not see a neutral light the problem is not your switch but the wiring or something else??? If you see the neutral light the problem is almost surely, either the switch or the connection to the switch.

Oh yah, One of the possible speedo failures is caused by the pressed fitting at the lower elbow(where the cable meets the gearbox) Solution: just press it back together and be sure that when you reassemble the spinning square thingy seats itself properly in the the gearbox, otherwise it will force the fitting apart, again... This usually results in no speedo, rather than a bouncy needle. So, it probably is not your bike's problem. But good to know about! Tip courtesy of Mike Stewart if I recall correctly

Another point is that my car's mirrors are much better, and I am frequently scanning what is beside and coming up behind me. On the bike the Napoleon's comparatively suck. But speaking of Napoleon, perhaps if I drinking cognac, I would fearlessly countersteer into the next lane and avoid my waterloo! I have seriously considered truck mirrors. But I am afraid of what everone would think of me Oh F@CK That, I should just get some truck mirrors. Not the big long ones, but the panel van size. Who knows, they may even suck the last few vibes out of the bars.

Just out of curiousity, what are your valves set to, and how many turns out are your air screws, and what does the Veglia say your idle is set to. I am just curious as to how it relates to the TPS setting. Thanks!

How the speedo cable is positioned is critical for the speedo. My front brake switch went out of 20something thousand miles....still on order. But I have not heard it to be a very common problem. Somewhat common, yah. Maybe the brembo switches that are activated by fluid pressure are more reliable???? I really want to go LED in the stoplight to reduce the amp load on the switches, but I may get a dedicated relay for the brake light....or not. (too lazy)

I think the Guzzi is less likely to hit the furniture because it is a smaller target. But if the question is, who can maneuver over 2 meters more quickly, I would say the my Toyota Matrix would have a slight advantage, unless I was tuning the radio or drinking coffee. But my old 76 Mercedes would be eating sofa. So it does depend on the car. Likewise, if our bikes lost 50lbs they would move quicker. Or if I was realllllly prepared, I might be able to make the bike move over quicker. It is probably something I should practice... I generally use the same following distance whether on car or bike, 2 seconds.

According to the few posted dyno charts they appear to boost power about the same. I don't know anyone who has done a direct comparison of both of the crossovers. So, if you are inclined go all out with the FBF. They should be able to give you a fine base map for John to turn into pure Guzzi pleasure!

Very nice teeth!

I disagree. Have you guys ever had the opportunity to checkout response time when you dial 911? Odds are, I'd be in the next county by the time the next fine LEO could intercept me. Of course it would all be a crapshoot. An example happened just Saturday. Our wonderful city planners put a commuter train in with connecting busses that only run at rush hour. I saw some poor sap taking the two mile walk to the nearest bus station and told him to hop on the back of the bike with no helmet. Just my luck, a cop comes from the other direction. I tell the passenger to hold on, as we shift into hyperspeed. No radio intercept, no ticckeet! And no lives endangered. I will run, but I won't do anything stupid. You may argue that to be an oxymoron, but I beg to differ and believe that it is sometimes safe to ellude the fuzz. However if they are right on my tail or have a speed trap I am cooked goose. It is when the cop has to drive ahead and do a U turn that you can gain advantage, or you can be a fine citizen and just pull over and pull out your license. Of course the cop may not have seen my lidless passenger, but I was not about to stick around to find out. His radio would only help him if the police had a 60 second response time. A nitrous booster would have helped, but then I would have lost the passenger, but still no ticckeet!

Our porting, twin plugging, Hi compression pistons, lighter flywheels and loud pipes just aren't fast enough for an escape. Time to invest in a nitrous booster. Hmmm, I don't think we have had a nitrous thread yet... :rasta:edit, I take that back, there has been a nitrous thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3635&hl=

Just the large breweries produce wee wee. I am sure you know there are many fine American Beers. I don't know of anything good from Minnesota, but your neighboring state, Iowa used to have a very fine unfiltered ale:Yum!

Weird. The early bikes appear to have a molding in the case for the part that they later added.

that beer looks good. Beer - A fermented alcoholic beverage brewed from malt and flavored with hops. Middle English ber, from Old English bor, from West Germanic, probably from Latin bibere, to drink. Often used as a distraction useful in the act of disinformation. Guzzi content: My V65 clutch came apart at the rivets once. I blame it on the manufacturer of the clutch. But I guess I could have driven slower and not given my over weight friends rides.

Is this the same guy?