dlaing

If wanna be real lazy and you have some room up the dipstick, add some fresh heavy SG auto oil, and run it in to dilute the acidic overdue oil, and then let it sit draining with pan off or not draining for the month, but don't overfill, and do remember to get it out. But yeah, it is much better to follow moscowphil's advice. And don't forget to add a Shloppage sheet and hose clamp!

I kind of like it. One of these days I am going to hack the rear of of my V11. But don't worry, no ape hangers.

Yeah, what Richard said. In that order, each time checking to see if problem goes away: Balance your TBs, Check your TPS, Adjust your valves. But if it is tune-up time, then do it in reverse: Adjust Valve, Adjust TPS, adjust idle, balance TBs. Dan M. did an excellent post on the cause of pinking. Keep in mind two of Dan's points, too lean, and too much carbon buildup. While enrichening the mixture reduces pinging short term, it is can increase carbon buildup, and the long term result can be a greater tendency to ping. A PCIII should be used to eliminate both lean and rich spots on the map. Other solutions such as Tuneboy, Directlink, and MY15M offer ignition adjustability, which can do more for the map and optimizing burn, than simply modifying the richness. Still others reshape their combustion chambers for better squish.

Maybe if I chrome the Pazzos?

I though Tx weighed about 100# more and had a shaved head. WTF? My image is shattered! I am not sure the Stelvio qualifies as a consenting adult. You should have set him up with an older bike, like a Convert or other Loop Frame.

Yes, I have the long ones on my bike. I chose long because I don't have forearms like Popeye. I prefer them over stock. They are only worth it if you want to pull up to the pub and have hot babes take off their clothes and jump your bones right there in the street, just because you have such a bitchin' lookin' bike... I am a shallow poseur and that is my fantasy, so bug off if you can't relate, you closet posing poseur bashers!!! Technically I don't think they are worth it. I ASSume the stock are cast alloy and the Pazzo are 6061 T6 Billet. What difference does that make? I don't know. Maybe they'll hold up better if you drop the bike??? Maybe they'll transmit more of impact to the master cylinder bracket, so you'll be riding home with no front brake??? Maybe the billet will flex less allowing better transmission of energy??? My impression was that they felt better, but that may have been the freshly greased pivot point. If you want a cheap improvement, clean and grease your pivot point. Also, they are a little thinner and concave on the inside allowing you to pull in maybe one more millimeter. Is that millimeter worth $200? I think not, but they are sweet looking and knowing that they are billet gives you warm fuzzies inside. So DON'T let anyone accuse you of being vain and shallow for spending your money on them. The warm fuzzies deep inside are what it's all about. But if you have money to spend, make sure you have taken care of other upgrades first. Loud mufflers to annoy your nice neighbors. Billet head guards, because you are not a perfect rider. Proper sprung suspension. Roper's Moto Moda Shloppage Shleet. Relayed head light. TuneBoy. Every thing but the levers listed in my signature (or comparable) should come before the Pazzo levers.

Yah? will I find your attitude stomach turning you sanctimonious seal pummeller! Fascist edifice?!? Jesus F. Christ! Is that what it is to you? Blow it up! Bull doze it! And what do we have left? A bloody badge and a small pile of patents. How many millions of Euros did Piaggio pay for that? Maybe the condos can be financed by the US tax payer Dark humor aside, this is truly sad. I guess it is time to start hoarding parts BTW, I have two OEM muffler/passenger peg brackets for sale. 1000.00 Euro

I think you got that backwards. Actual speed per RPM for a smaller tire will be lower. Veglia speed per RPM will be the same regardless of tire size. Otherwise, nice work. If my speedo dies, using your numbers I could index the tach. As it is, using a 160 tire, my actual speed is off by about 6% at the Veglia speedo and distance covered seems to be off by about 3%. So when I calculate 30MPG it should really be about 29MPG

Evan Wilcox Metal http://www.wilcoxmetal.com/ Nice stuff. Proudly not only designed, but Made in California!!! These guys in AridZona seemed to have helped put him on the map for Guzzis http://www.epfguzzi.com/THRASHER.HTM Tonti dressed in Al alloy http://www.epfguzzi.com/models/t2.html Euromoto mag article http://www.epfguzzi.com/acesory/tanknews.html touring tank

Desdinova, Did you make sure the cam roller was not in contact? I usually slide a piece of paper through to ensure there is a gap. Maybe I need to photograph this technique. If that is not the problem, the Micha method or variant there of will probably get it running better. Set bypasses to 1 turn out. Set the idle to 1150rpm. Balance. Forget about the disconnected 150mV and set the at idle TPS reading to 500mV. This may get you close enough. If close enough, reload the PCIII map for your mods, test ride, try the voltage a little higher or a little lower and see if it improves. You might still have an airleak that is causing problems??????

Did you try that, Huub?

That sounds like a good battery to me, but it would depend on the details, and the details are effected by temperature. At room temperature, a new Hawker battery fully charged, should be able to sit overnight, read 12.84 Volts in the morning, be cranked for 3 full seconds would probably rebound to over 12.7V. A marginal battery 75% charged, should be able to sit overnight, read 12.60 Volts in the morning,cranked for 3 full seconds would probably rebound to over 12.5V. We don't have exact numbers but I am sure a bad battery would probably drop below 12.5V A marginalized starter could start fine with the new fully charged battery, but probably not with a battery at 75% I don't know what thresholds you would look at to determine if it is the battery or the starter that needs replacing. At 12.5 V (sitting over night) I don't think my starter won't turn. The threshold for it failing is probably close to 12.5V I am sure this threshold will vary widely amongst our bikes. Using my bike as an example, I just went to the garage to confirm the above: My bike has a voltage leak issue, so after one week without riding, I just checked the voltage and it read 12.59. I bumped the starter with the wrong throttle position for 3 seconds, stopped then read the voltage, 12.50. (Almost what I predicted) I am sure it could still start at this point, but I am going to put it on the charger, just to get it from 75% upto to 100% charged. Air temperature is about 75-80F in my garage. Maybe this chart will help:

The combination of tach going crazy and not charging does seem to indicate a bad starter relay. The line of voltage that the regulator refers to and the current for the tach pass together through many fault prone places. From the battery, the 15A fuse is the first potential place where a bad contact could cause a problem. (replacing fuse is cheap) The next and most likely point of failure is the notorious starter relay, with its barely adequate 87a terminal. Replace with either a GEI or one of the relay's Ryland sells. IMHO anything else won't cut it. Putting headlights on their own set of relays is a better solution to take the high current out of that circuit The next point of failure is the headlight relay. These are generally pretty reliable. Heading out of that circuit, the tach's ground is notoriously bad. And then there are the connections coming off of the voltage regulator. They are down low in the vicinity of water spraying off the front tire. Cleaning and protecting them is a good idea. And last but not least is the 30A charging fuse. Look for signs of melting or buring.

OK, now that I have seen it with my own eyes, clearly Supernatural. But a little anti-climatic of an ending.

Yeehoo! Thanks for the 411. Some great passes by Valentino!!! Good luck Homebuoy Hayden

Yeah! Obviously that flat tire was a Guzzi design flaw and never would have happened on a Beemer. You should never ride further from home than you can push the bike.

Don't worry about testing when cranking. If you are getting the same voltage immediately after key is on, and several seconds later, your problem is pretty darn likely the ECU or a connection.

Greg's report is here http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=149476 Thanks Greg!

I am not sure what I mean either. Sorry, I made a mistake. When you turn the key on the 86 terminal should show zero or near zero volts and then after a second or two it should something like 12 volts, but maybe less because of coil resistance????? And then one the engine is turning, it should show zero or near zero again. And yeah, I see no reason to use an ohm meter, except maybe to test the relay when disconnected. I was mistaken that Huub's conclusion here is wrong. I had the voltage backwards in my head. But getting 12V at the 86 terminal is probably perfectly normal a few seconds after key is turned on, and the important thing is to get the measurements in the three scenarios: immediately after key is on, a few seconds after, and while cranking. Of course there are other ways to diagnose this issue, but that is what I would do if fuses appeared to be good and swapping out the injector and ECU relays did not fix this issue.

I guess we have that system here too. At least they ask us what our annual mileage is, but I have never had them check the odometer. Fears of certified GPS devices monitoring our every move worry me. A certified odometer I guess is not so bad, but it would be ridiculous to retrofit it to vehicles. I suppose big brother will start with voluntary GPSs accompanied with discounts. Some rental cars are doing it.

What!?! Let me at'em!!! I need to comment! As Luhbo says, 14.6V is maximum (at least according to the manual) Could be bad wiring, bad fuse, bad ground or bad regulator. Also, the regulator gets it baseline from a line that passes through the notorious starter relay on early V11s, and goes through the lighting relay on all V11s, so the relays may be suspect, too. I'd start with swapping relays around assuming yours are all 5 pin. Keep track of which went where. If that does not fix it look to the fuse, clean it, move on to wiring, and ground and clean them, testing for voltage output as you go. But don't stay at 17V for long as the battery and other things like the ECU could get cooked.

I am not sure about that. When you are measuring 86 at the injector relay, I think you are measuring the voltage coming across from terminal 85, not the ground. To measure the ground for terminal 86 you need to disconnect the injector relay and measure at the terminal 86 of the injector relay's connector. Following what RAZ says when you turn the key on, you should observe the grounding of terminal 86 of the connector, but only for a second or two. After a second or two, the grounding should go away. Raz said,

I would not be worried about insurance rates going up too much because of this trend. I get my medical insurance through work and so I don't elect any specific motorcycle injury insurance. I suppose packs of mods riding Vespas might inflict liable damage to each other, but for the most part the damage will be self-inflicted, with their general medical or NO insurance covering the damage. Also, the cars held responsible for not seeing the itty bitty scooters will have insurance covering much of the damage. So, yah, car insurance might go up a little, but I don't think we'll see much of a change other than from inflation, and the rising incidences of natural disasters, that effect the pool of money in the insurance business. My biggest fear is that I will be charged a higher medical insurance rate because I ride a motorcycle, drink alcohol, eat donuts, go for walks in cougar country, and my great great great grand father died of some hereditary disease. But so far, my insurance charges the same for everybody, including smokers. There was talk about metering vehicles mileage for billing purposes. Good grief! you could imagine having to fit a certified odometer on everything. But back to the plethora of scooters. I much more agree with Dan's first point that it will create greater awareness of two-wheels out on the road. And maybe some Italian scooter people will evolve to Guzzi and Aprilias that they see in the shops.

I am gonna work the angle with my wife that I need it for *SAFETY*

I thought the topic was "Whoa, sh^t brakes!", but I am glad to see it is "Whoa-shit! I've now got brakes!!!" The thing I like about Guzzi riders is that most of them realize that good brakes and suspension are more important than peak HP, not that there is anything wrong with peak HP...