dlaing
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Everything posted by dlaing
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If you do not have money now, the bike will be ok. Just make sure it does not make a pinging noise. Pinging is a metallic noise that occurs when the timing and or fuel mixture are incorrect.
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Sorry. Then you may want the tuneboy http://www.tuneboy.co.uk/ They do not show the version for the Moto Guzzi yet, but you can buy it. The kit is valuable to a home mechanic, but like the PCIII it is expensive. If you can find someone in France or Spain who can install a tuneboy map, it is much cheaper. It should be less than $200 to install a map that matches your muffler, crossover, and air filter. But it costs much more money to refine the map to perfection. If your dealer has the tuneboy, he can help you install the map. There are other competing products such as Techno Research's Direct Link. It is possible your dealer knows about it. http://www.technoresearch.com/Direct-Link.htm If you go to the website and print the page to show to the dealer, he may be interested in buying it. It is about $450US If you fix the bike yourself the Direct Link and Tuneboy are helpful. The complete tuneboy is $310US
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The dealer can make the bike run a little richer(add more fuel). This will prevent you from damaging the engine. But the dealer can not control exactly when to make it richer or leaner. To do this, he must change the map. The PCIII will change the output of the map. You do not NEED the PCIII, but the bike will run MUCH better with it. You can download a software file that will modify the map in the PCIII to match your air filter, Muffler and crossover. The PCIII is a lot of money, but is worth twice the price because of how it makes the engine work better.
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Should be : "hello, this Tuesday, I will install a crossover and a K&N air filter, on my 2004 V11. The Mistrals have already been installed. Here my questions: Is my dealer able to reprogram the ECU correctly? Does he have the neccesary equipment (software, map...)... or must I expect a suprise or problems after this installation. Moreover, does the sound of my motor bike change enormously? Also, what are the other possible modifications on my V11!!! thank you The dealer can make it run OK, but to run very well, you should get a PowerCommander III (PCIII). as Tim suggested, or one of the many alternatives for customizing the map in the ECU(Electronic Control Unit, the device that controls the fuel and ignition.) The PCIII is the easiest way to get great results.
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Probably should be: "Who is your dealer in Paris, Fifi? I could have some suggestions if you are ready to hear them from the Alps :luigi:" I hope you don't mind the corrections. It should help you learn, even if my English is terrible....
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I'll check it out if you apologize for having said things that encourage racial hatred. :peace:
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Or how about this, assuming you have not cut open the muffler yet, you could take a half inch drill(neon laser drill not yet available to the public) and drill through like so, and then you could just seal your holes with muffler tape slide the cover back on and 100 HP awaits!
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Thanks Skeeve! AWESOME post! Do you think just cutting off the perforated pipe in the first chamber would reduce back pressure? If what you said above is true, that is the biggest bottleneck. Or just cutting out the final exhaust pipe in the third chamber would allow for a shorter, less restrictive path.
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internal timer in the ECU or the pump? Wouldn't it have to be in the ECU?
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Yah, the 150mv is the more critical setting. Depending on how your valves are set and other factors, a difference of 350 or 525mv will result in a very different idle speed. My bike idles fine at 1000vegliaRPMs, and anything higher causes an uncomfortable clunk when going from neutral to first gear. Todd put a volt meter on my tps wires and got a LOW reading of 260mv, so I am apparently way off! But my bike idles nicely and I run the valves at 0.15/0.20mm. Tighter valves would lower the idle speed requiring the idle tps mv to be higher. When you set up the PCIII, you will ideally zero your throttle position at idle. So, you will want to get close to the 350mv that Todd suggested for Randy, so that the map overlays properly.
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500-525mv is what our bikes should generally be set to. Early on, there was a misconception the the lower voltage of other Guzzi ECU should be used. I have not seen the TPS reading posted for the exact bike that the map was created on. RacerX(Todd Eagan) posted something about it being an out of crate bike from MGNA. It should have been set to stock settings, but maybe not, as the stock valve settings are too tight. When using other bikes maps it would be ideal to know there TPS, valve, and CO settings. Here are some websites with tuning procedures, not all aimed at our bikes....but good reading http://www.guzzitech.com/EVTuneup-Jeff_B.html http://www.wildguzzi.com/Tips/tips_n_tricks.htm#TPS http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/lofiversio...ex.php/t103.htm http://groups.msn.com/TheMotoGuzziPeople/tips.msnw http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007/tps/TPS.html
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Ouch. I hope mine is not cracked. Mine started leaking after the recall.
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He "had lost all electrical perifs. ie tach., horn, lights, just before shut down" which probably indicates the specific relay failure that I discussed here: http://www.guzzitech.com/RelayFailures-David_L.html So he should replace the front relay with the more heavy duty relay from Dan P. Wiring the headlight through a separate relay is also a good idea.
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I apologize for the thinnest possible reasoning. Sorry, so sorry.
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I am a ex-Quat-D owner. In an effort to get more HP, I traded my Quat-D for a pair of Mistral carbons. The Mistrals gave more peak HP, but I lost power below 5000 rpm. A Stucchi crossover may someday help me regain some of the loss, or I may go back to the Quat-D or I may try to make my own under gearbox muffler, possibly out of the OE muffler. Allegedly the newest Quat-D muffler has more top end, but I would like to see the proof. I loved having the muffler under the gear box. I made the bike more alive and MORE like a Guzzi. You would have to ride a bike with the muffler to understand, or use your imagination... Ideally, I would like to see the design with outlets on both sides of the bike, and more peak power. You can read more about the muffler here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4071&hl=
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Thanks for the reply! The Hagons have a good price, too. 255 pounds.
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Get the five pin so that they can all be interchanged.
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After reading your two wiring diagrams, I would not be certain of which fuse controls the fuel pump, but if you tested it, that is good enough for me. The other condition you mentioned, accelleration, is consistent with vapor lock. Many months ago, you also complained of vapor lock. What did you do to fix it? I suppose powder coating could put an invisible insulating barrier at your ground points, and I suppose it would not have to be invisible at the regulator, where you can't see much, and could have easily overlooked it. I just don't think I have ever experienced a faulty ground causing a fuse to blow, but with an ECU I suppose, it may be possible or even probable, I don't know enough to know. Good Luck.
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According to Sunoco "To prevent vapor lock, the vehicle fuel system temperature must not exceed this temperature. The TV/L20 specifications range from 105°F in the winter months to 140°F in the summer months." So it is no small wonder that vapor lock is an issue on our bikes. As for a Curie (Currie?) effect, we would not be hot enough under normal circumstances, but there could be a compounding effect of hot fuel increasing fuel pump amperage creating more heat and more fuel vapor and the pump has to work harder and hotter and the fuel gets hotter and the amperage goes up and the engine runs leaner and hotter and so on until the bike sputters or the fuse blows. Is the Currie effect sudden, like the freezing point of water? I don't know. From what I read the temperature might have to be more like Venus then Uranus. So the Currie effect may be out of the question, but the vapor-lock is another story, especially if combined with a year old fuel filter.
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Yah, I could not find one google match that indicated vapor lock causing such a thing. Let me go ogle ur anus and search for currie effect and vapor lock sorry, I lost it.
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That link did not work for me, but I found this hot tri umph hugger at http://skykingproducts.com/store/events/Summer/ And for those who want a little more flash http://skykingproducts.com/store/events/Mi...ts_DSC00675.JPG or http://skykingproducts.com/store/events/Miki/ for the complete Miki spread
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So, Jerry Miculek is Canadian?
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I imagine vapor lock could also cause the pump to stall and a fuse to blow. Also if the magnets in the pump get hot enough for a curie effect to take place, stalling and blown fuses or pump could happen Smokin'!
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You did not grow up with red necks, high on the piss water they call beer. But maybe you do nonsense like smoke cigarettes, have sex without condoms, get crushed by crowds at 'football' games, or glorify a motorcycle that breaks down all the time. Sorry if I offended anyone.
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I'll bet this is the guy who really shot JFK. LHOswald was allegedly too slow and inaccurate, but someone like this could probably learn how to make a bolt action rifle work quickly and accurately.