dlaing

Brings a whole 'nother meaning to getting jiggy with it. The meter really sikes(edit should be spikes) on the throttle transitions, but I guess you could learn to read the steady states and average out the ups and downs. (sorry there is probably some proper jargon for that) The price is reasonable! Thanks Carl! So where do we get a thread adapter so we don't have to weld on the 18 x 1.5 mm sensor adapter? I am pretty sure Cliff said the Bosch sensor did not fit our fittings, but my brain is foggy from cough syrup Come to think of it, maybe those lines are easy to read but not at the moment

I put a hose clamp and a piece of hose on the steering damper rod so that it stops the forks from hitting the tank. Someday, I will look to having the nub welded. Along time ago, I think people posted that their brand new bikes' forks hit the tank!?!? I dropped mine.

I just went back to look at the post that started this whole thread. Brian must be a psychic or something, as if it was not covered to death before the post, it sure has been covered now! But the best part is we have only seen the tip of this iceberg.

Now we know why Pete Roper still rides an old carburreted guzzi.

So here is my tuning link generated map 0 2 5 10 20 40 60 80 100 500 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1000 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1500 0 26 23 14 27 11 17 20 20 2000 0 0 17 0 5 -3 -2 -12 2 2500 0 0 15 17 -2 2 9 3 17 3000 0 0 0 20 1 17 15 21 29 3500 0 0 0 11 5 3 15 11 15 4000 0 0 0 17 7 1 14 22 24 4500 0 0 0 18 13 4 9 15 4 5000 0 0 0 18 20 4 -3 -6 -1 5500 0 0 0 0 24 1 -6 -7 -4 6000 0 0 0 0 0 1 -8 -6 -7 7000 0 0 0 0 0 -2 -2 -13 -10 8000 0 0 0 0 0 0 -3 -14 -17 to see the dyno graph again, go here From all the zeros I would assume they are not mapping everywhere, nor do I think they have to. Todd Eagan adds numbers to some of the spots that the dyno does not map to help with low throttle transitions or something like that. One thing I don't like is that they are lugging it with 100% throttle at only 1500RPM. I am not sure if it hurts anything, but it is not how I would drive my bike. It is also interesting that you can have a 17 adjacent to a -2 or a -6 next to a 15. I wish I could remember if they run an RPM range at a time or a throttle position at a time. I remember they took many pauses like they were waiting for the temperature to settle. Also, it is clear now that the area that was pinging, 5000-6000rpms and 80% throttle they had actually leaned it out. I did re-enrich it there in my own maps to combat the pinging, but never completely got rid of it. Aside from the pinging, which existed before the mapping the bike ran much better. But may have consumed about 1or 2 mpg more. If anyone wants to copy the map, it is for 2000 US model V11S with QuatD muffler, FBF/BMC airbox kit, valves set to 0.15/0.20mm and the TPS may be a little low EDIT here are the WOT Map numbers in blue on the A:F graph I just don't get how the numbers jive with the curve. Especially at 5000 and 5500 rpm(where I was getting pinging). could the dyno tuner have made a mistake on my final map? 29 rich number reverse effect, 15 ok, 24 fine, 4 not sure, -1 reverse effect, -4 delayed?, -7 ok, -10 ok, -17 ok.

I have heard nothing but good about MG Cycle. http://www.mgcycle.com/exhaustcrossover.htm http://www.mphcycles.com/V11LeMansAccessories.htm list it. http://www.motointernational.com/main.htm is also a good bet. Or you could go straight to Papa I found two slightly different addresses, Do you speak Italian? "Stucchi Luigi" : Via per Maggiana 24, 23826 Mandello Sul Lario (LC) Tel : 0341/731344, Fax : 0341/733801 STUCCHI LUIGI srl Via per Maggiana, 24/B 22054 MANDELLO DEL LARIO (LC) Tlf. : 0341 731344 Fax: 0341 733801 http://www.stucchiluigi.it It looks like there website is down... ... and did we hear rumors that MGCycle is on back order??? Or was that FBF?

I looked around the internet and found numbers for NON-Guzzi 17mm drain plugs ranging from 18-40NM I would guess 15-25 NM would be about right.....but I am just guessing. A guy on WebbikeWorld said that his Triumph started to feel like it was stripping at 38NM. I would start low, go for a ride but keep an eye open for leaking, and make sure the torque is the same after the bike cools from the ride, as it was when you torqued it. How old your washer is effects what your torque should be, but ofcourse you will only use a new washer, right? Also be sure to clean crud out of the threads as this can give a false torque reading. You probably already knew that...

I wish I knew...First time I personally did an oil change, I found it was stripped. So it probably strips pretty easilly. I think buying a stock of aluminum crush washers is a great idea. The OE washer has a rubber gasket that does not seal that well after a few oil changes. Perhaps the OE washer is fine if you replace it every other time, but I'll bet the crush washers are a lot cheaper and they give great feedback when you tighten down with the wrench.

If you are going to drop the pan, it does not matter which plug you open, as you can dump out the extra oil. Likewise if you drop the pan you don't have to warm the engine as all the oil reached the bottom already.

That could look real nice! I think to mount it, you would probably want to change to the balabio headlight mount setup. You might want to trade someone as the fork mounted headlight looks better to most people on a naked bike, and they may give you what you need. EDIT now that I look at that picture, tha balabio light may not be forward enough.

Yah, the R90S BMW fairing is a piece of cake to mount. The biggest problem I had was painting it. Don't you hate it when you are on your last pass with the spray can and it blurts out a goober FWIW Airtech's fiberglass is first class and I believe they can do anything in their catalog in carbon fiber, so you would not even have to paint it!(maybe you would have to do your own clear coat???)

Why would that be a problem? I was under the impression that the best readings occurred when you threaded the sensor into the header pipe rather than probing the rear exhaust exit. Am I mistaken? Sounds like we really have to Tuning Link tune a bike and take it to MotoLab to compare.

GuzziTech appear to indicate that if you do not have an oxygen sensor you should be alright. "These units are available for all late '99/'00+ newer Guzzis, including all Cal EV's and V11S/LeMans. Prototype Breva PCIIIusb & 02-sensor controller almost ready for delivery." You might want to wait, as the next model should also adjust timing, perhaps Todd could give you an idea if that is true or if it is going to happen soon. Todd, aka. RacerX, responds quickly if you post on the Guzzitech forum

Reasonable. Here are my choices: For the cheap rider: 1. PCIII serial off of eBay. but don't pay more than US$150 2. PCIII USB, people say you can get them for $259...I have seen them for $299, don't pay full price. 3. wait till an open source software tool for the Marelli 15M comes out....and wait ...and wait For those with a little more money and like to tinker: 1. TuneBoy for $300+ dollars you have a great tool to tinker with. You can use one of the freely downloadable PCIII maps to start you off with your ass dyno. 2.Cliff's ECU, awesome product, but a little intimidating, but I will wait till someone else is the guinea pig. current price in US dollars $543.optionally+WBO2 Much of this discussion has revolved around the effectiveness of the WBO2. You can make your own mind up, but I would be sure to read Moto's and Cliff's posts. They really hammered through some stuff. 3. PCIII Great price and the buttons are a hoot to tinker with! But not diagnostics. 4. DirectLink for $450, a litlle over priced. I still have not heard back from them regarding pricing options....perhaps they sent me something by snail mail and not email. For those with enough money for dyno time, I think you pretty much get what you pay for: 1. PCIII plus tuning link. Dyno rates vary alot. Be sure to tell the dyno operator that it should be cheaper than the 10,000 RPM bikes, because there are less mapping positions. This is number one on my list because I am CHEAP! and I already own a PCIII. But I have not decided if I am going back to the tuning link. Better, more expensive, options are below. 2. Tuneboy. The programmer has gone out of his way to make this dyno friendly. The price is excellent, but you may have to pay more for dyno time to get the same results as a tuning link, and to get better results you will have to pay even more. The result may be worth the extra money. The choice is yours. Moto has convinced me that if my financial situation improves, I will be looking for a dyno tuner with a four gas analyzer. 3. Cliff's ECU the tuning does not have to be a perfect as for the the TuneBoy if you go with the WBO2 option 4. FIM this product confuses me. The diagnostic and mapping software is very expensive, so the non shop will probably not buy it. But if Doug Lofgren is gonna map your bike, this may be the way to go. Note that you can always use a PCIII on a tuning link to get a map and then transcribe it natively using TuneBoy, My15M, FIM, or DirectLink. The PCIII could be borrowed or re-sold. Heck, buy it for $259 and resell it for the same price to some sucker who thinks MSRP is the only retail option. Something you will have to weigh for yourselves, like the value of any product and service.

What a shame that some of the smartest posters on the list have to resort to calling this thread masturbatory. Maybe it is envy. I thought about saying worse, but like you said Pete, it is not worth it. For what it is worth, I have learned more from this thread, than all that I have learned on all the other lists combined. Perhaps that is why this thread broke all records for most replies. Thank You All, even Pete and Jeff with their tasteless disgruntlement.

Doug Lofgren also wrote this excellent article describing how one O2 Lambda range is not a good indicator of where to tune for power: http://www.visi.com/~moperfserv/chip_talk.htm Edit, I am mistaken. The article does not describe that, but rather how one map will behave differently on two bikes. If anything it may reinforce the idea that an O2 sensor defined lambda will result in good power.

Regarding Ferracci, I don't have much evidence that they would do a great job. Moto Euro Magazine wrote an article describing the mods, including valves and porting, done to their V11S. The claimed results were very good. Regarding there valves, here is there sales schpeel: Race Series Stainless Steel Valves for Moto Guzzi Fast By Ferracci Super-Flo valves are the best of their kind. We have developed a valve that can withstand the punishment of high rpm, high compression engines. Our Super-Flo design actually reduces the stem diameter in the port area. We use an innovative technology that compresses the stem to achieve the Super-Flo effect with special rollers, maintaining and compacting the grain flow in the material. This exclusive process provides our valves with excellent strength and reliability, increasing flow over straight stem valves considerably, yet with no adverse effect on reliability. For all I know, Ferracci may not even use a flow bench to do his porting. Regarding Mike Rich, He has gotten critical acclaim from many people on this list. And he has been involved in the Guzzi Land Speed Record project. http://www.cookedgoose.org/sponsors/richmotorsports.htm The address there is outdated as he has moved the shop to Pennsylvania. Mike Rich modified some heads that raceco had previously modified. The result is in this article: http://www.cookedgoose.org/2002maxton.htm However his good work appears to take time, so one might want to buy a second set of heads to reduce bike down time. Ideally, I'd like to find someone good in San Diego who I could leave the bike with, so that they could do both porting and squish redesign. If it could be done within the budget of my wallet. I may just replace my valves.... For Doug Lofgren's V11S dyno write up go here and read " Moto Guzzi exhaust comparison Moto Guzzi V11 Sport" and "The latest installment of the Guzzi chronicles More Moto Guzzi Exhaust System Testing" Note he does not use an accurate baseline, but I think we can still conclude that the Mistral crossover boosts midrange the most, that the Stucchi is overall the best crossover, and that the stock crossover has good peak HP but the worse midrange.

Very nice design for power's sake. What I don't like is what it'll do to oil changes and luggage space. What I need is a QuatD like system that dynos better than stock across the board. Enzo is on to something with the Cobra system that I suspect is LOUD and may get in the way of oil changes and lower curb hopping clearance.

I thought I was. Do you have evidence to the contrary? I don't know much about the pickup. I believe it is magnetic but has a tighter air gap than a Dyna. The Manual says to set the gap 0.6 to 1.2mm. It is depicted as item C I think it uses a lost slot to determine TDC. I would estimate that if you moved it one mm, it would change maybe one degree, assuming the sensor trigger wheel has a circumference of 360mm...which may be about right looking at the photo, perhaps a little smaller. But keep in mind that as you change the position, the gap will change. Could be tricky if you are aiming for more than a degree.... Thanks for the muffler/crossover tips. Doug Lofgren's posted V11S dyno test sure do show that a small change in crossover design creates a huge change.

You are just peeved because Carl and I together have more than half as many posts as you, and if you don't keep up with the posting the two of us together, may get MORE posts than you. PS didn't you post a few years ago, something about an onboard TwinMax?

According to http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007/schematic...9_V11_sport.gif the ECU fuse (fuse 1, 5AMP) does not protect the ECU. It protects the Coils, fuel injectors, and fuel pump. While the injector, coil, fuel pump fuse(fuse2, 10AMP) protects the ECU and the injection relay. So, I think something is wrong with your diagram...

But that would be CLOSED LOOP! We cannot have that!

This stuff scares me. Where is the quality control for these things? > >This is the stuff we should be asking Rumsfeld. > > Cracks Found On Military Helicopter Blades > > This image is of cracks found during routine inspections of > the Kaman Aerospace SH-2 Seasprite helicopter. > > Pilots and crew of these helicopters were seriously alarmed > (and rightly so) when this information was released. > > They were especially concerned because the cracks weren't > found in just one location - they were all over the craft. > > > > > > > >

Speaking of which, I think there is a market for an onboard Twin-Max, or equivalent. Or at least a warning light that would tell you, time to synch the TBs. Does anyone make a rugged electronic airpressure sensor with two tubes coming out so one could measure the difference?