dlaing

$2000 for a tuning link's O2 sensor?!!! How much is the Bosch sensor that you use? Could you bundle it with an accurate* LED meter that would tell me how lean my bike is running and sell it to me for under US $200? (*accurate from 12-15:1 ratio at 0.5 increments. So, it would measure 15 or maybe 7 LEDs or 3LEDs and an adustable target range with 0.5 accuracy) Does the Bosch thread in to our pipes without modification?

Because we should never forget. Or maybe we should forget, and be like the current world ruling megalomaniac, condoning torture and zenophobic killing. Or maybe it is kind of satirically symbolic, considering the UK's assistance with that megalomaniac. But then again, Harry's apology was lame, showing that he had no intent of awakening political awareness. He just wasn't being very PC. I guess you can't even name something Tsunami anymore...too in-sense-it-tive. Let us start a list of taboo costumes!!! I am offended by the following: Womanizing Pimps, Life sucking murderous Vampires, Chains saw wielding mass murders, (or other murderers), Black hooded torturers, Soldiers of any nation that does not obey the Geneva Convention, and Motorcyclists dressed as motorcyclists cause they are too cheap to buy a costume! (Bikers dressed as bikers is okay)

Not that I know the answer, but is it quiet when in gear? Is the noise basically the same in neutral or with the clutch pulled in? Any other oddities?

I would be very concerned. Especially if it rattles while driving along. I would suspect that you have busted a rivet, but I really don't have any experience with these things. I would also check for other loose items, like the starter, the airbox, the shock absorber, or even the muffler.... Regarding the Quat-D: How do you like it? Did you get the one with the header pipes to replace the stock headers? Do you have the PCIII, if you do, do you need a map for it?

Nah, imagining stuff headers when you are looking at branches is merely a healthy sign of psychosis, but these guys are obsessed!!! Staedler, are you the owner of this amazing machine?

Do you have photos of the mufflers? I was thinking of shortening a pair of mufflers and am looking for something cheap $100-200

I'll bet these Staintunes are just a little too long to put under the gearbox, and a little too expensive to chop up:

Hi Frank, Thanks for letting me check it out. They really sound great! Extremely Vivacious! And they look every bit as good as the images. It was a pleasure to meet you and Enzo. (not to be confused with Rolling Crow Enzo, despite the similar muffler results) Enzo did an excellent job! I am not sold on the crossover idea that others are, but I would be sold on opening the mufflers up a little more and also adding more baffling. (ANYBODY HAVE ANY DAMAGED MISTRALS FOR SALE, CHEAP?) But if you ever dyno tune it, it would give me a better idea of which way to go. Who knows? maybe you have more power everywhere?!? The engine did sound very healthy and insynch.

It is difficult to predict what this design will do for power. More sound? Yes. Less weight? Yes. Cool factor? I think so! Faster? Sounds faster. But eliminating the crossover while keeping the stock outlet size will probably do two things. Fill in the whole in the midrange and lose a little top end power. That is my guess, and it is what I experienced with the Quat D, which is very different in that it is a two into one design, which is more efficient at scavenging, but one gets cross cylinder interference.Or so I believe. I'd like to see this design with a little more sound wave dampening and a more open port. Atleast, for my bike that does not have the balance pipe. I think a decreasing diameter labarynth, packed in stainless steel wool, with minimal to no crossover, and if there is a crossover, it would be very forward. The final outlet would have to be atleast twice as free flowing as the stock outlet, since there is no crossover. I wish I could have afforded to take apart the QuatD and re-engineer it for more peak power.... EDIT I went back and noticed Frank has also drilled the ends, which should help eliminate some of the back pressure that I am concerned about. PS Emry, any ideas about final diameter size,(less than 3"!!!) or crossover elimination.

Guzzi is now the official Goth Bike! http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...pe=post&id=1783

Thanks for the links Emry. It also seems pretty clear that Moto is bringing up the point that CO may be a better indicator, not just for power, but for tuning for the A:F that works best for our bike. According to a chart on the first PDF that you linked to, CO gives a better indication of A:F when the A:F ratio is below 14:1, while O2 gives a better indication of A:F above 15:1, and both O2 and CO give good indications in the 14-15:1 ratio, which is where a car would want to be, but not our bikes. Of course I am merely making the assumption based on the slopes of the curves in the charts. But, Moto's data seems to corroborate that the CO is the better indicator when one is pursuing the A:F in the 12:1 to 14:1 area that we want to run our bikes at, not just for power, although that does appear to be what he was targeting. It does seem like a five gas analyzer would give our bikes better running maps. Of course many people have had great improvements using the tuning link which only analyzes one gas. (or am I wrong?)

I am sold! Could you have him price a conversion? Also, any chance I could visit tomorrow and check it out? (I will be leaving San Francisco and headed to San Diego tomorrow morning)

Could the O2 readings be wrong because you are not holding it the setting for a full 40 seconds? http://www.andros.com/6800spec.htm Or am I reading the specs wrong, and that Also the O2 sensor is accurate + or - 0.1 % which is fine, but we should not be nitpicking between a 0.1 and a 0.3%...but then again, I'll bet that on a given day the accuracy is much greater. the plus or minus point one probably is against a standard rather than the same machine against itself.

Yah, but he is raising concerns about O2 sensors, which would indicate that he is not in to Tuning Links® either. I take it as healthy scepticism.

I put Moto's data into more of a chart form HP RPM CO O2 62.7 6000 11.4 0.4 67.6 6000 4.7 0.2 99.5 8300 7.2 0.3 103.3 8300 3.2 0.2 17.9 2300 12.6 0.2 18.8 2300 4.2 0.3 53.9 4900 6.3 0.1 at 89% throttle 56.2 4900 3.4 4.0 at 100% throttle 56.2 4900 3.4 2.4 at 100% throttle It looks to me as if one could aim for a 0.2 oxygen reading and get very good results. The power would probably be just as optimal if one aimed for maybe a 4.0 CO As for the inconsistencies that Moto saw, perhaps Moto's tuner's oxygen sensor is not state of the art??? And perhaps many tuner's sensors are not state of the art????? How do the Oxygen percentages match up to A:F ratio?

Shouldn't this be in technical articles?

Time to dampen our thirst, not our spirits, but with fine spirits! It still seems to me that shocks dampen wheel motion: dampen v 1: smother or suppress; "Stifle your curiosity" [syn: stifle] [ant: stimulate] 2: make moist; "The dew moistened the meadows" [syn: moisten, wash] 3: deaden (a sound or noise), especially by wrapping [syn: muffle, mute, dull, damp, tone down] 4: reduce the amplitude (of oscillations or waves) 5: make vague or obscure or make (an image) less visible; "muffle the message" [syn: deaden, damp] 6: check; keep in check (a fire) 7: lessen in force or effect; "soften a shock"; "break a fall" [syn: damp, soften, weaken, break] I have been visiting San Francisco this week. mmmmm went to a microbrew on Columbus called San Francisco Brewing company and had about the best American Stout ever yummmmmm. Anchor on tap everywhere else... PS anyone in SF have a silver V11S with Magni fairing, parked at Market and 2nd or 3rd....nice bike!

What doe 2% oxygen translate to in A/F ? 2/100 or a 1 part air and 50 parts fuel? Or I guess we assume that the air is only 21% of our air, which is still a very rich 1 part air and 10 parts fuel....hmmm, oh I get it! It is the residue oxygen, edit that should be 0.2% So because it is measuring the residue oxygen and not the fuel and air going in, we are only guesstimating? or is there imperical evidence that there is a reliable correlation? The CO vs. 02 Falco readings are not very comforting. So to speculate, assuming our bikes are most efficient where they make the most torque, around 5000 to 6000 rpms, they would burn more of the oxygen at the proper fuel ratio than at maximum HP. Following this logic, an 02 closed loop or a tuning link would falsely assume that at 5000rpm the bike needs more air than at 8000rpm (or below 4000rpm). But maybe it is only a slight variation, or maybe the tuning link is smart enough to compensate. Or maybe I am all wrong about efficiency??? The same might hold true with higher compression pistons resulting in a leaner map than desired. moto, where were your futura co vs o2 differences?

I have heard people say that regarding suspension, it is damping, not dampening, but I am not sure that is correct since dampen is what your shocks do. Of course if Guido Webster's dictionary says so, it must be true. My understanding of "fuzzy logic" is that the market droids have misinterpreted the technology and misdefined it as electronic logic that makes it better than traditional mechanical or electrical methods. I believe fuzzy logic's origins are from math, where they try to define a world of varying shades of grey into terms that could be defined in black and white. When it got moved over to digital electronics, they took 'fuzzy' grey analog data and digitized it into segments. This is why our ECU's maps do not have infinite points. In computer graphics, this is why we do not see infinite colors, but a grid of a finite number of colors. So, 256 colors was REAL fuzzy, thousands, less so, and millions, you would have to have superhuman powers to detect the fuzz. Coincidentally in the 60s, those who enforced laws with Black and White logic, were called "the fuzz"

Just to add confusion, the following is from the Moto-Euro Magazine article on the V11S that they sent to FBF. "Moving down, a set of high-domed pistons, each 28 grams lighter than the factory slugs, drop into the stock 92mm bore. Raising compression from 9.5:1 to 11:1, these forged parts are supplied with rings and lighter/stronger wrist pins. Beautiful pieces they are, too, wrought after extensive research by Eraldo so they would be lighter and require no re-balancing of the crankshaft assembly."

A higher compression engine is more prone to pre-detonation. A combution chamber with well designed squish will maximize efficiency by keeping the compression ratio up, but being well designed it will also resist pre-detonation.... and I guess result in a smoother engine??????

I guess it could be worse, and it could all be snow...We are so spoilled her in San Diegocool! I did not realize it, but the link to this image is dynamic and changes...So just trust me when I say that initially the weather looked worse than it does now...maybe.

smoother ride from higher compression pistons? I guess they must have fixed the squish or something....or maybe it is because they are lighter.

So you don't think varying the air level would help? I like the idea for an air pressure cross over tube. The idea of one tube bottoming before the other bugs me.... Fourty Days and Fourty Nights of rain! edit please excuse my attrocious spelling....should be, Forty days and Forty nights....

hmmm? I kind of disagree that it adds preload. I would assume that the air pressure inside the forks is about 1 ATM when the bike is on its side stand, adding no preload. When you sit on the bike the air pressure builds, and assists the spring. The higher oil level, like a high compression piston, would result in higher pressure as you approach bottoming out, and if high enough, it would prevent you from bottoming, but you would still hit a hard air cushion. Lower oil level might allow for more fork travel if the air is preventing the bottoming, which I suspect it is.