dlaing

Why did you get new pistons? Are they FBF, Guzzi, or Mike Rich supplied?

I have some inexperienced thoughts. So speaking out of here: 1) Progressives are THEORETICALLY superior if well engineered. The problem is that they are never built correctly. Ideally the progressive spring would create an initially high sag number of maybe 1.1" and it would bottom out with the same force as it would take to bottom out a straight rate spring offering maybe, a 0.5" sag. So for a 200 lb rider, we might be talking a progression going from .60Kg to 1.10Kg/mm. But the progression must be true. ie half way through the stroke the spring should be at about .85Kg/mm. Sorry my math is not great, so don't take these numbers as gospel, especially since I am only being theoretical and your mileage will vary. 2) That being said, there are some gotchas. a)The damping will not be progressive in a telescopic fork, so you will be over or under damped depending on where you are in the stroke. b)The forks already have a progressive effect from the air inside the fork, so there is no need for progressive springs!!! If anything, I have suspected that our forks are overly progressive, and I was considering lowering the oil level to allow for greater room for the air to expand. How low can we go!? Any thoughts?

Dave, Maybe I am going blind, but I don't see your bike in the Classifieds. Just your mufflers and Crossovers. Could you post a direct link to it? Grazi

On my one trip to the UK, I dicovered many speed cameras. But the consensus was that because I am a yank on a rent a bike there was nothing to worry about. Also, they always put the cameras in straight aways, so you there were no real prohibitions in the twisties, and the police could do there job chasing real criminals like this guy. I imagine they don't put the cameras right in the twisties in Norway, but then again they might have to as I imagine the fjord side rodes are nothing but curves. But if you are forced to go slowly through that, I'd buy an El Dorado

:!: Don't get it all together, and turn on the ignition, otherwise the fuel pump will spew line residue back into the tank :!: You might want to take the opportunity to replace your fuel filter, too. or atleast backflush some crud out of it if you have some carb cleaner... just my obscessive two cents...

http://www.guzzitech.com/V11SForkSprings_Jason.html says the FZ1 springs work and are 1/4 to 1/2 inch longer http://www.racetech.com Part number FRSP S373210 RT FRK SPR 36.7x34.5x315 1.0kg $109.99 What is the source for the rear shock spring? LE?

I like the Givi Luggage. Here are the 46, the 36 would look sportier... Here is the article on how they mounted it: http://www.mgnoc.com/Articles/something_fo...beyond_the_.htm Compare it to the HepcoBecker wheelie poppers: and if that ain't UGLY enough

The early V11S is quicker handling and requires much more care when selecting tires and setting up the suspension. I have only ridden my 2000, so my 2 cents is not worth much. But FWIW, I have felt safe at 130 Veglia MPH on all but one set of tires.(contiforce) And I weigh a fair bit over 200# and have not resprung the bike, nor fixed the 2 inch front sag.

" Leonard sits up. He looks at Joker. He strips off his skivvy shirt and ties it around his face to blindfold himself. He begins to field-strip his weapon. He pulls off the blindfold. His fingers continue to break down the rifle into components. Then, gently, he fondles each piece. "Just look at that pretty trigger guard. Have you ever seen a more beautiful piece of metal? He starts snapping the steel components back together. "Her connector assembly is so beautiful..." Leonard continues to babble as his trained fingers reassemble the black metal hardware. Leonard reaches under his pillow and comes out with a loaded magazine. Gently, he inserts the metal magazine into his weapon, into Charlene. "Leonard...where did you get those live rounds?" " from: http://www.visual-memory.co.uk/amk/doc/0065.html

Cycle World International Motorcycle Shows New York Jacob K. Javits Convention Center January 21-23, 2005 I am not going, but I thought it should be posted.

Ken, is that a Le Mans with Givi Luggage Very nice photo editing! But seriously, did anyone catch what the Piaggo guy said, "“The new Group” said Piaggio Chief Executive Officer Rocco Sabelli “has one of the most complete and diversified product ranges on the market, from 50 cc scooters to 1000 cc motorbikes,"" Notice that 1100cc is not included

I kind of think old bearings, like old underware, are safer. Here is why: New underware, unless you prewash it, is often coated with chemicals. People who bought underware and use it in a disposable fashion, may get a rash Likewise an old bearing is broken in and proven. It probably just needs lube and care. But it should be inspected and like underware when you are about to go on a hot date, replaced if even slightly sub-standard.

I apologize. I was wrong about the metal jacket version being for cold weather. I guess it is for high heat conditions, like close to an engine. Operating temp. plastic case only -40 degrees C to + 60 degrees C -40 C degrees to + 80 degrees C with metal jacket

I think you are still confusing the Odyssey with the Genesis, both made by Hawker(allegedly) My source will not warrant the Genesis for use on motorcycles. My source will warrant the Odyssey for use on motorcycles, for two years. PS your source is overpriced! PPS if you wanna see the link to the OE Hesa Spark 500, go here: http://www.hesa.com/componenti_industria/c..._spar_spar.html

Being on the North side of LA, it should result in a great turnout. Now it is within an easy three day tour for most of the Canadians and two days for the Seatellites. BayAreans can be there in little more time than we San Diegans. Tim, I hope you have a good practice run. I'll be heading the other direction on Monday bound for MacWorldExpo. Mike, shoot me your phone number if you have time to hook up for a drink. I'll be taking the Toyota up to stay warm and dry. I will head back Saturday, so I'll be a day behind Tim.

There is no recommended Genesis Battery. According to the Genesis webpage of the company that sold me the Odyssey; "For motorsports applications use the Odyssey battery. The Odyssey was designed for rugged vibration sensitive applications with thicker plates to prevent cracking and premature failure. The warranty on the Genesis doesn't cover motorsports installations. "

Have you seen this LeMans 2004 for only $9000 http://www.mphcycles.com/V11LEMANS.htm

In previous posts some people, including me, mentioned the Hawker Genesis G13EP. While it does meet the size and power requirements, it does not meet the durability requirements of motorcycles. Some people recommend the Yuasa ytx15L-bs http://www.yuasabatteries.com.au/asp/index...2&type=1224 6 7/8" x 3 7/16" x 5 1/8" Weight: 8.8 lbs. Metric Dimensions: 175mm x 87mm x 130mm Metric Weight: 4.0 kg Paul Minnaert recommended: the Yuasa ytx9-bs, a lot smaller, lighter and cheaper. and he has had one last 9 years! There is also the Westco 12V13L Voltage 12 Amp Hour 13 CCA* 275 Length 6-7/8" Width 3-1/4" Height 5-1/4" Weight 11.8lbs MSRP $89.95

Warning! Handling batteries can be hazardous and lethal. You should only install, remove or charge batteries if you know what you are doing. The below information is intended to help make battery maintainance safer. Please use care, and refer to the shop and owner's manuals for further details before proceeding. Here are some tips from Odyssey that are probably also applicable to the OE battery: "DO NOT SHORT CIRCUIT YOUR BATTERY'S TERMINALS!" "Odyssey is shipped fully charged from the factory, but prior to installation, check the battery's voltage to see if it is 12.65 volts or greater. if not, recharge it using the procedure below." Note: It is probably a good idea to check the voltage before riding if your bike has not been ridden in a while, and charge it if is below 12.65V before starting the bike. see Winter Storage section below... "Never attempt to remove the top decal cover as it will cause the battery to fail. Charging First determine the state of charge: 12.84V 100% charged 12.50V 75% 12.18V 50% PowerSport Vehicles have limited charging systems. To get long life from the Odyssey® battery it is important that the battery is kept near full charge, approximately 12.8V. If there are electrical loads during storage, then the negegative battery cable should be disconnected or a Battery Tender® trickle charger used. Low power 1.25 amp Battery Tenders® will keep a fully charged battery fully charged but cannnot recharge if Odyssey® becomes discharged." they talk about using a Deltran 6 or 20 amp charger for deep discharge applications(something we don't do, right?) Then they say, " If a standard automotive charger is used to boost charge a discharged battery because of an accessory left on, it is important to make sure the charging voltage does no exceed 15 volts during charge. A hand held voltmeter can be used to monitor this periodically. The following chart provides recharge times under this type of boost charging to an 80-95% recharge. Charge times for a 100% discharged battery with a resting reading of 11.5V 10 Amp charger 1.5 hours 20 Amp charger 45 minutes" Please note that many 2, 6, 10, or 20 Amp chargers will exceed 15V, which could destroy your battery. "Winter Storage Odyssey® does not lose its charged energy during cold storage temperatres, so there is no need to trickle or float charge during winter months. To store offseason, measure the battery voltage to make sure it is fully charged, 12.84 V or greater; recharge if neccessary. Completely disconnect the battery (both positive and negative terminals to prevent any applied electrical storage dischargin. Odyssey® cannot freeze down to -40C or -40F so it can be left in the vehicle. It can be stored for 2 years or more." Installation Whatever you do, do not short out the terminals. Remove all metalic jewlery that might possibly come in contact with the terminals. Remove old battery by doing the following in the following order: 1.Disconnect negative cables. 2.Disconnect positive cables. 3.Remove rubber hold down strap. 4.Pull battery out. After installation of the new battery the old battery must be recycled. Install the new battery 1." Position your Odyssey® in the battery holder and fasten firmly to the vehicle"(place in rubber battery tray and strap down with rubber hold down strap) 2."Connect the positve cable from your ignition to the Positive(+) terminal." "Torque the bolt/screw to a maximum of 50 in-lbs (4 ft-lbs.) " 3."Connect the negative cable from your engine or chassis to the Negative(-) terminal." "Torque the bolt/screw to a maximum of 50 in-lbs (4 ft-lbs.) " I believe that it is a bad practice to touch the Positve terminal (red or +) when the battery is grounded. This is not mentioned by Odyssey, but I believe it is an important aspect when handling high amperage batteries.

For $10 more you can get a metal reinforced model to endure very cold temperatures, a must for Northern Europeans. ***Edit, I was wrong, the metal jacket allows for it to operate at higher temperatures, not lower. Operating temp. plastic case only -40 degrees C to + 60 degrees C -40 C degrees to + 80 degrees C with metal jacket ***

I just bought an Enersys Hawker Odyssey PC545 "Dry Cell" SLA Battery (I think SLA means, Sealed Lead Acid) It is identical on the exterior to the OE Hesa Spark 500 Guzzi Battery in every way, except it is orange instead of black, and the label is different. My OE battery lasted exactly four years, and I bought my 2000 model bike In December 2000, so the battery had probably been sitting for months. The specifications on the Odyssey 0770-2019 PC 545 are: five second cranking amps: 545 (like the model name) CCA (as listed on sheet): 230A CCA (as listed on label): 185A MCA (as listed on label): 240A PHCA(as listed on label): 545A Reserve capacity: 18 Minutes Weight 5.7kg (12.6lbs) Length 7 1/32" Depth (height when installed on Guzzi) 3 13/32" Height 5 3/16" female threaded for m6 bolts They included two stainless steel hex key machine screws (bolts) 2 Year full replacement warranty I bought it from Portable Power Systems of Denver Colarado USA $69.95 plus $8.79 UPS shipping to San Diego, your mileage may vary, literally. Many place wanted alot more for it.

You are probably right, otherwise I would be pretty sure you would hear him threatening to sue, or atleast get his money back. Thanks for posting here. I was nearly ready to upgrade from a PCIII to a PCIIIUSB and possibly get the diagnostic software from Ferracci. Your posts have put that plan on hold. Regarding the TL operators: Atleast in my situation I can do the tuning link with the PCIII and move the map to the tuneboy, if the dyno operator is SCARED of tuneboy.

Todd says it will be at the Castaic Lake Recreation Area. (Just North of LA/Santa Clarita) I imagine more exact details will follow, if you follow his link.

regarding Wayne's post: 2. Any idea what happened with the one guy on the Aprillia Forum who allegedly wiped his stock map? 4. Is it because the percentage trims are made to the actual fuel map, that it does not have the same change in altitude miscorrection that the PCIII does? 5. My fear is, even if they cannot lockdown the tuning link, they can brainwash fear into the hearts and minds of the dyno operator/owners, who will then refuse to TL my ECU with TuneBoy.

Watch out Todd! Have you seen his gun collection?!?