dlaing

I think I paid $111 US for the left bracket. I think you will also need the pair of small brackets that connect the upper triple clamp to the brackets and to the instrument carrier. (NOT SHOWN) http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/3451/hlampbracket6bn.gif

Comments appreciated. I will try going higher. I way 210lbs and you know how fast the roads are around here! I have found if I tried a little higher pressure the brakes seemed to lock sooner and wet conditions seemed to lose traction more readily. I am sure if I went up to 42PSI I'd get much better mileage! 37PSI may be about right. My biggest pet peeve is that my two tire gauges read about 4lbs apart! I estimate that if I had one pound to the $20 gauge or subtract 3lbs from the $5 gauge I am about right. FWIW my only problem with the metzeler front is that it steers a little to quickly. I have not found a better front tire, yet. but the mileage rating on it has yet to be determined.

From http://205.246.221.20/g/Terms.asp Sweeper - A long turn or curve. Decreasing radius Corner - A corner that has a smaller radius in the last half of the turn. Increasing Radius Turn - A turn were the radius of the first part of the turn is tighter than the second half. Constant Radius Corner - A corner that has a constant radius through the turn. Technical Turn - A turn that can't be negociated without either braking before it or sliding through it. Hairpin Turn - A corner that exceed 100 to 120 degrees. Note these are street luger terms, but they seem applicable. From anothe site "Chicane: Also called an "S curve" or "Ingress/Egress" but I prefer to call it Chicane, as this is the sound your ego makes when it is ripped from your body "Chicane!"" FWIW I have been on highland valley road, I guess you can call the majority of turns sweepers, but I tend to reserve the term for longer faster turns, like Montezuma Grade or Angeles Crest. Certainly there are some sweepers on Highland valley road and a couple sub 20mph hairpins, too. It is not my favorite road because of visibility, cross traffic, and squashed oranges.. But great turns and an exciting pace, especially if you are trying not to get too far behind Todd's Jackal.

Did somebody say, FOOD? Oh, well, I guess I need to make my own breakfast. I never bought the tool myself. My ultimate goal is to have a Palm running both the PCIII, a K&N fuel mixture meter, and Vehicle Diagnostic Scan Tool. A possible problem is: Scan tool uses serial Newer Palms are USB. PCIIIs used to be serial but are now USB. So, an adapter might be necessary. I love the idea of being able to put a map in the PCIII, start the scan tool log, go for a ride, then tweak the map. It does not give the feedback of the PC tuning link on a dyno, that is it does not measure lambda, nor automatically adjust the right numbers at the right spot, but I think it could help create a map. A K&N mixture meter could be used in conjunction, but it would not log. So, all together it may cost 3 times the cost of a dyno run and take weeks to dial in, but it would be fun! Most people will not use the scan tool that way. It is simply a great diagnostic tool, almost essential, that could easily tell you if something is not functioning correctly. You could buy it and rent it out to all your v11 riding buddies!

I'd take it over any HD or Ducati Monster. It appears to be very well thought out.(engineered)

I got 3000 miles out of my rear Metzeler, while every tire before it got 6000+ miles. It was a nimble tire, but it did not inspire me with confidence in the traction department. Probably sanding the chickenstrip area would have helped, because it was fine in the rain and when breaking where the tire was well scrubbed in. Perhaps they do like higher tire pressures. I was running mine around 34PSI, but I was doing that for the other tires, too.

Here is a new link: http://www.dpguzzi.com/relay.htm appears he has his own domain name now. http://www.dpguzzi.com/relay.htm

Sorry TX, I couldn't help it. But loosly back to the topic, I sure wish I could prove with dyno data that the ram air effect could work at real everyday wind speeds of 80 to 120 MPH. Pete has made some very valid points that to my knowledge have not been disproven and my counter argument is pure speculation. A before and after dyno test, or a dyno test at various wind speeds with davidb's bike or a similar setup might give the ram theory some validity. Here is a link to 'air ram' thread that has pics of davidb's setup http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3818 His enthusiasm after the ram air modification is encouraging!

I wish the search engine for this forum worked better... Ditto on what everyone else said. There are much cheaper ways to get HP. Buy an Aprillia, or an old Guzzi Daytona, or a Ducati multivalve. But many on this list have made gains that have made their bikes more fun to ride. Read about John T.'s rippin' rosso at http://www.guzzitech.com/JTsRosso-PtII-John_T.html Zebulon and Paul M. have created amazing multivalve Guzzis. The editor of Moto Euro Magazine had Ferracci do wonders: http://www.moto-euro.com/sample_article_9.htm It seems that the most cost effective gains come from a Stucchi or Ferracci crossover combined with just about ANY slip ons, combined with a Power Commander to make the most of the changes, and more importantly the power commander makes the bike rideable. Hi Compression pistons and porting are available from Mike Rich or Fast by Ferracci. The gains from those modifications are probably less per dollar. High performance cams are another option, but I think the V11S has a fine cam. The v11 cruisers cam is probably too mild for what most of us want. Removing the airbox lid is the cheapest modification per HP. Other options are Carrillo Rods for less reciprocating mass. Lighter fly wheel. And as others said, lightening the bike, will probably do more to make you fast. But I am not sure what can be done here. Lighter wheels, kind of expensive, and you might not want to lose your cush drive. a smaller battery(keep it fresh) If you want to get lighter, don't get a corbin seat or a seat with gel, these make it heavier. Get rid of the stock mufflers. They are HEAVY. The V11S headlight is kind of heavy. I'll bet you could easily find something lighter. I'll bet someone could market a rear subframe that could save a few Kilos. Paul M. has a nice tail section that probably save a bit of weight, and looks great! Whatever you do, enjoy

Pete you are correct. When Tx drinks his Sasparilla through a straw, he does not suck, the world simply blows.

That is one fine Scura! I love the muffler, and it would be nice if the side prop was a kickstand...nice location. I wonder how he got it so light. The OZ wheels knock off maybe 8 pounds, the muffler maybe 10 pounds, what else? The rear subframe?

The fact that the guzzi intake system is not ideal compared to multivalve DOHC engines leaves all the more potential for HP gains if the air pressure can be increased in the intake. Granted if the ram air intake is the size of the intake valve you are not likely to get much benefit. Likewise, if the ram air intake is angled like the intakes on the Daytona, you might actually lose air pressure. True there are many issues when it comes to ram air design. I think Will Creedon mentioned a stagnation point where the pressure just cannot be made to go up regardless of wind speed...of course I am butchering what he said... But aside from these challenges, it seems to be common sense that if your snorkles are at 1 atomosphere and your engine is sucking, you are gonna get less than one atomosphere in your intake. The ram air is not going to give you Turbo boost, but it will keep you from heading towards a vacuum. The critics of ram air often mention that gains do not occur until you are well into triple digits. I beg to differ, and believe that air can be funneled in such a way that one is getting more than one atomosphere at the intake valve. This can be done with intakes that are significantly larger than the Daytonas. Perhaps the intake face could be as large as the air filter intake area...maybe (2) 10cm diameter circles would be about right. I am pretty sure David B.'s intakes are more than twice the size of the Daytona intakes. To maintain air pressure when the engine is cruising along at 80MPH and 5000RPMs of potential vaccuum the air should be funnelled in. The ram intake should probably be twice the size of the throttle bodies, and if it is, I beg that gains could be made. Note that I am not an aeronautics engineer as I believe Will is, so I could be mistaken due to aeronautic physics laws that defy laymans common sense. But if you have ever walked by a skyscraper on a day with a ten mile per hour wind, you can verify the existence of a much more powerful wind. Funneling is the solution. Start big, end powerful. The one thing that concerns me is the difference in fuel mapping needs. If we can double the air pressure, then we might need alot more fuel, and the Guzzi airpressure feedback is not likely to be able to compensate for this. A flow meter would probably be needed. Of course, I could be wrong about this too. I wonder if Will calculated the engine's flow at RPMs into the stagnation equation??? Heat shielding on the airbox could also be a good idea, as Pete suggested that keeping the air cool by not drawing it in by the pre-heating engine fins, could make a difference. Sorry, enough rambling for now.

So what exactly did you do? Got photos?

From the same web site...I think this picture is a fake!!!

Uni makes Universal size foam that you can cut to fit. They have a pre filter density and regular density. I am sure you have heard the arguments pro and con. I think foam is the way to go if you are into higher maintenance. It will trap more particulates. It will flow very well if kept clean and NOT over oiled. High maintenance is cleaning once per year. The Universals are cheap enough you could probably toss them every year. I would not try to stretch the life of one past four or five years. The only major draw back of foam is that it can degrade and flake off into your engine. But using your stock box you should lay in a double layer of course and fine mesh, or just corrugated fine mesh to support the filters. This could protect against disintegrating foam mucking up your engine. But replace the foam before signs of disintegration! The other draw back of foam is that comparing it to brand new clean paper and gauss filters, it does not flow as well....but give it a few months and it starts to pull into the lead. Protection is superior! Go for it! I am using a BMG gauss type, with Ferracci open lid kit...I'll bet my throttle bodies are getting coated by what gets in, not to mention inside the engine. But it is low maintenance...I think it has been nearly two years without cleaning. addendum: See here for details on the foam: http://www.unifilter.com/accessory-catalog.htm

Excelllent, so we should see you in Arizona sometime! The silver bike directly behind yours with the tank bag is mine. The next red bike I believe is a Sporti...possibly Pierre's??? I think the next bike belongs to the many year host of the Ramona Rally, John Hardy. Pretty sure its a Sporti. But I could be wrong. I think they are both two valve engines. Janice and Mike Stewart are with some guy just behind the two red bikes. It was pretty cold when we took that picture. 50F and 20mph wind. The hot Pasta was cold but good if you could keep your plate from flying. But altogether a great rally! For more pics http://www.v11lemans.com/gallery/ gallery images/ Rallys and Meetings/ Prescott Arizona Rally/

What we need is a continuously variable transmission and a really peaky engine to go with it. Oh yah and belt drive! And! a hybrid gas/electric power system. And self adjusting multi-valves. And liquid cooling. And pneumatic tires! But seriously, one thing I did notice today was how wonderfully spaced the gearing is on our bikes. Bellisimo!

Our rotors are Stainless Steel, right? In any case, I am sure the double H, sintered metallic will eat the rotors pretty quickly, which could be a good excuse to buy Brembo rotors!!!! Although the stock rotors are nice and light!

We'll miss You

We're not gonna let you retire, yet, you young geezzer! We're gonna put you to work assembling Cliff's My15s, headlight rewire kits or something Guzzi related. Heck in Oklahoma, you can probably manufacture fiberglass parts without the Enviro police requiring 100000 dollars in emmmission scrubbers. You'll have to come back west for some good roads again soon! Bar Guzzi Q sounds good, but a little far.

Ok, I gave it a try. Maybe I am a spaz, but I gave it a try and found that although it works, the clutch shifts are still smoother to the feel of my foot. I tried today to find a timing that was smoother than clutched shifting. Breaking the time down into theoretical time segments: A. cut throttle 100 milliseconds B. bring back throttle 100 milliseconds I tried preloading the shifter and quickly cutting the throttle and bringing it back. This seemed to produce a fairly smooth shift, but my concern was that preloading would cause strain on the dogs or whatever they are called. Plus the shift was not as smooth as a proper clutch shift. Trying to simultaneously cut throttle and upshift I found that if I was to early with the shift, there was too much resistance at my foot. If the shift was within the first few milliseconds of the throttle cut, the shift was optimal and nearly as smooth as a clutch shift. If I was too late with the upshift, I found false neutrals. The shift had to take place within the first 100 milliseconds. Probably the smoothest shifts were between 10 and 50 milliseconds. In order to get the timing right the shifts had to be unrelaxingly quick and I had to be accellerating not just cruising and upshifting for the heck of it. I still reserve judgement and will practice more as conditions dictate, but I am not ready to shift in the twisties with this technique, shift while cruising, down shift, shift when full throttled close to red line, shift at low rpms, or shift from first to second. Meanwhile the clutched shifts allowed for a lighter touch of the foot. On the good side, I think the exercise(experiment) improved my clutched shifting. Granted that I am not the most coordinated. I have white mans dance feet. I have been bowling once per week for six years and still throw a gutterball or two on the lead shot, on average more than once per night. AND I am still in the top one percent of sporting riders in terms of chicken strip size. Got passed by a grey haired guy on a Kawasaki Dual Purpose today So maybe Janusz can constantly be in clutchless nirvana, I don't want to take the chance except under ideal conditions like accellerating onto the freeway. My humble opinion only, your mileage will vary.

That's enough Bub talk! Quat-D also makes a more conventional slip on. I am not sure if this is in their catalog. The bike is refered to as a Vitto replica.

I don't think anyone is advocating using racing technique. Using racing technique you would bang the engine into the drive train to increase accelleration....this is a bad idea, unless you have money to burn. Upshifting without the clutch can produce smoother shifts that are easier on the drive train. I am not sure exactly what is going on inside the gearbox, but I suspect a clutched shift works because it nearly neutralizes the force coming from the engine. This allows the gears to find there way home with the prompting of the gear shifter. It is not the perfect way to shift because the engine side of the gear box does not know how fast to go. It is free spinning and is at the will of the tire side of the gear box and its deccellerating forces. Hang on to the shift for too long and you can be in gear box pergatory. PROPERLY executed clutchless shift produces less wear and stress because the force is not completey neutralized, but rather the engine runs just a hair faster(presumably the engine runs faster, but a hair slower would work too.) The perfect speed difference allows the gears to find there way home. How reliably can one execute clutchless shifts, I don't know. But as Jeff suggested, if you get it wrong, you can do expensive damage...

Never mind, I see they appear to have an H crossover.

Do the Bubs crossover? 2into1into2 or 2into2? They sure do look better in chrome than flat black!(until the chrome flakes)