dlaing

For daylight safety, the HIDs are pretty effective. I remember hating halogen lights when they first came out. Riding down the freeway looking into the sea of oncoming lights the halogens stuck out like irritating drivers with high beams on. Will the HIDs catch on the same way? I don't know. The price will have to drop even more. If the LED lights plastered over the vehicle are too diffuse you will become camouflaged in many bright situations. I looked for an example of lights used in camouflage, but only found this and one other interesting shot from http://www.giantginkgo.com/archives/000113.php

That link takes you to an Italian language site with no way out. If you go to the main site, http://www.rossopuroitalia.it clicking on the British flag might work better for we language challenged speakers of American. The good news is that the folks at Rossopuro have at least one English speaking sales representative. Here is the blurb in English from their site: "08/10/2007-ALPINA SPOKED WHEELS FOR V11 FINALLY AVAILABLE! From the collaboration between Rossopuro and Alpina, the first spoked wheels kit for tubeless pneus is now available, dedicated to all models of Moto Guzzi V11. The rims are made of aluminium, CNC machined aluminium hubs, inox spokes. Main feature of this kit is the new Alpina´s patented A-System for tubeless wheels. With this new system is now possible to install tubeless tires on spoked wheels, so that speeds higher than 180 km/h are allowed also on spoked wheels. In the cross and supermotard fields Alpina wheels already reached the highest performances with max safety! The kit can be bought either in the Rossopuro´s colors shown in the picture or in your own color combination between black, gray, red and gold, both for the rim and hub. High resistance anodized finish with great looking style. The wheels could easily be installed from a specialized garage or tire changer."

When grounding the wiring rotating on the triples, you might also want to follow Carl Allison's tachometer grounding procedure (circa 2003) http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ost&p=30246 On the older V11s the headlight current not only flows through the switch, but also through the weaker NC connection of the starter relay. Around 2002-2003 they fixed it so that headlight current does not have to run through that terminal, but there is still room for improvement since the current still runs through the headlight switch. Here is an article showing how and why to do a headlight relay upgrade, with diagrams by Gary Cheek. Relays dedicated to the horns are also not a bad idea.

Yah, most likely culprit is ECU fuse, Injector fuse, ECU relay, or injector relay. Another possibilty is the inline diode, but I have never heard of one going bad. Other possibilities are bad connection along the harnass. The wiring diagram and some voltage tests are the easies to start with. Probe each side of every fuse to start, as that is the easiest test.

Back in this thread, http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=146286 Jihem posted about V50man's film "Rebel Scum", a documentary of the band, "The Dirty Works". In that thread, things apparently got nasty, most of the nasty stuff got edited out, and it got shut down. Hopefully that won't happen here. This was an excellent movie, in many ways better than "Sid and Nancy" or "This is Spinal Tap". "Sid and Nancy" fed on our curiosity of the famed Sex Pistols, but in my opinion failed to move me or meet my expectations. "This is Spinal Tap" was a mega-cult classic that was very entertaining, but the social commentary not very meaningful and it was fake and scripted. Rebel Scum is REAL. By simply following the band, filming these intriguing characters, and apparently masterfully editing, they produced a captivating tale of perseverance in the pursuit of their dream. The cliche concept of resisting "selling out" never came up because these guys are the real deal, working for their art, whether appreciable or not. My one criticism of the film is that the sound track is not as good as the music on their album, "Biscuits and Liquor", giving the impression that the band kind of sucks. The trailer does even less justice to their music, and the trailer in my humble opinion over does the 'struggle for art's sake' theme. To me the impressive theme is the struggle of the dysfunctional to simply make it, and keep the band together. If you like either the study of the dysfunctional or punk rock, go see the film if it ever comes out. It is truly fascinating.

Yah, I might consider modeling the map more after the My15.

I did a track day and I am pretty sure I took a few years off of my bike in just one day. If the A:F ratio was set across the board to 12.5:1, assuming maximum power was THEORETICALLY at 12.5:1, and the temperature compensation curves kept it there, I guess that would be OK. But, I think more optimal A:F might be leaner than 12.5:1 at cool temperatures, and richer than 12.5:1 when approaching the hottest temperatures that we might face. Leaner when cool should improve fuel consumption, reduce emissions, reduce carbon build-up, and help the engine warm up. Richer when hot should act as a safety against overheating related issues, mostly when working the motor hard, but I believe also in other conditions like Summer traffic jams.

That super charged bike would be nice, but getting back to what I am more likely to try, would it make sense to add fuel for cooling rather than following the physics of maintaining a given Air:Fuel ratio? FWIW, I more likely to change the engine temperature fuel modifications, before changing the air temperature modifications.... According to TuneBoy, here are the fuel modifications for the two temperature sensors: air temperature engine temperature (EDIT: it looks like air temperature could be in Fahrenheit and the engine temperature could be in Celsius, but I think they are both celsius?????????????)

I tried to teach Antonio how to speek Amerikan once. Futility, just like Guzzi in MotoGP. We alls know that V-twangs are dah bomb. Ludites riding guzzisti know, and serious go fast people riding Aprilias know, HOWever, on the race track, HP and and a bunch of other krap rules. Guzzis last great stand was with the V8. If they could resurrect the Messiah of race bikes, they might stand a fighting chance, and Piaggio using the Guzzi badge with claims of the best engineers at Aprilia helping out, might just make it. But I suspect that four cylinders may be the maximum allowed in MotoGP.... But don't slip into the void of complete pessimism yet, the work around could be four oval pistons, which would force them to out honda Honda, which in turn would earn them remarkable credibility, and every Ricky-Racer would want one. A long shot, I know I would not bet on it, but it would make more sense to me than any other Piaggio MotoGP Pipe Dream. IMHO a better strategy would be to keep making reliable, slow, durable, over-priced Guzzis as a niche market. The best marketing edge Guzzi has, is that they make the best handling 'cruisers' in the Universe (of production motorcycles). The Sport bike niche ain't likely to work, but the retro sports could make it....IMHO.

Could you imagine if Guzzi started putting hose clamps on oil filters!!! But seriously, if I had ignored everything you say, we never would have had any arguments. Kudos to you, because your good advice has probably saved quite a few engines.

I think that is excellent advice. When I went to the Electrex regulator, they recommended NO fuse. I thought that was not really a good idea, but the regulator wants an unrestricted conduit to the battery. I ignored their advice and went with a small inline fuse like what went bad on Docc's. I think the maximum amp rating on the fuse holder is 30A. I have been lucky so far. At least I upgraded the wire to a thicker gauge. It may or may not be a mistake to use a fuse, but if you do use a fuse, the little ATC fuse insulated in the holder clearly has a high risk of failure. After seeing Docc's fuse, I'll be replacing it when I get a chance. The Maxi fuses are a good bet. Glass tube type fuses may be even better bets, IF you can find decent fuse holders.

The V1100Sporti's ECU is a 16M a removable chip, with the Creedon chip being the most famous. The V11 has a 15M with no easily removable chip, but many more options for modifying mapping than the 16M has. Removing the chip is apparently possible, but I think requires expertise in soldering and flashing and probably code hacking.

Perhaps it will take 10,000 more posts before the value of the VDSTS and 'fuel trim' is fully appreciated????

Interesting! I'll have to spend more time at that forum. At first I thought averaging meant smoothing and I would have disagreed, but then I realized they are different, and should not be confused. The smoothing can mask a miss. PS I don't wanna high jack this thread, but if anyone has gotten an LM-1 RPM logger to work on a V11, please PM me. TIA Meanwhile I'll be hunting that forum for a solution.

I am not sure that is right. But I don't think there is a wrong answer when it comes to true mutual love, so I think you deserve a point. Here is another Quiz: http://thisdistractedglobe.com/wp-content/...o%20pic%203.jpg Please answer in the form of a question, for example: Who is M_.________and who is M_. ______________? Bonus point: Who is the jealous one in the background? (answer in the form of an ANSWER).

Just what I want! Thanks for your opinion. I have already upgraded to the Ducati 999 front calipers. Eventually I'll get better rotors, and if I find a good deal second hand, will consider a radial master cylinder.

Is the travel about the same?

Because of the change in foot angle, it makes sense that the pedal should be relatively higher, but it appears that it exceeds your ergonomic range. Perhaps a stupid question, but have you tried adjusting at both the splines of the output shaft and the length adjuster(assuming this kit retains that adjuster)? It may take the right combination of spline position and adjuster length. The obvious is to go counter clockwise at the spline, but maybe you need to go clockwise and then shorten the adjuster. Or maybe go counter-clockwise and lengthen the adjuster. Assuming you have tried that, and assuming you don't want to have your left femur shortened, then you don't have many options. Here are all the ideas I came up with. Contact John and either have him supply a fix or return it. Sit further back (probably not ideal) Modify it so the peg is higher (losing comfort). Get a shorter adjuster(Anyone know if these are these standard parts? Would a shorter adjuster hit the same limit?) Have a talented welder shorten the adjuster(again assuming you won't hit a limit.) Cut the adjuster in half, thread each end, and connect with appropriate long nut. (not sure what is need to make that work, but could be cheaper than a welder and increase adjustability.) Perhaps by flipping the lever on the spline it could be set to do upside-down shifting (I think the angles are all wrong for that to work)????

Do you find the lever gets closer to your grip, or less close? Is your reach fo the lever about the same?

A brake engineer named 'AngryBob'...do you think he might post on this forum. It was a good post, but he did not cover the interesting stuff, like efficiency, etc. He seems to have some misconceptions about common conceptions and his solution to brake fade is moving the lever out, rather than different rotors or pads. I think our V11s have about the perfect ratio, so in my opinion, any improvement from a radial master cylinder would come from the small gains in efficiency that comes from the slightly superior design and superior materials, assuming the radial master cylinders are forged alloy. My question for a brake engineer is, how much efficiency is gained with radial master cylinders? Obviously it would vary model to model, and our Brembo gear is already pretty good stuff. Still I fall into the camp of, if I had a few more dollars and the skills to accurately calculate the ratios, so that I don't ruin my already near perfect ratio, I would switch to radial master cylinders in a heart beat. IMHO, the best bang for your buck is to maintain the brakes properly. Good pads, clean fluid with minimized air, and a clean greased lever pivot will keep your braking happy.

Maybe Milk of Magnesia would work, too!

If the calcium is not to reduce shock, than I guess it must be to reduce acid. I don't think it is to reduce wear or friction. Is acid buildup a problem in separated gear boxes? Why did they put so much calcium in it? I knew moly was anti-friction and anti-wear, but I did not know it was anti-shock. Maybe they make nano balloons out of it. I'll be looking for good synthetic gear oils that I can simply put Moly in to make my own shock resistant oil, even if it is not shock resistant. And I'll continue changing it too, when the shifting gets lousy.

At the time I heard that, the Creedon chip was about the only option for making the fuel injection work better. Since Creedon designed the chip to work on 87octane, I bet it ran rich compared to the V1100CarbSport. At some point this guy had a Creedon chip, which could have influenced why he observed worse fuel mileage with the Sporti. If the carb barrels are smaller, that may have had something to do with it too. I recall he did say the Sporti was faster. Would you please try that 15.5:1 method and let me know the results I am a little scared to try it myself. Fear of burnt valves, etc. I realize if you go lean enough the Exhaust Gas temperature starts to drop, which makes it more doable, but still there are transition points between cells, and setting it to 15.5:1 could take some time to get right...but maybe less time with the MY15 closed loop.