dlaing

I got my copy from him and the digital copy from the web. FWIW The digital copy is lower resolution than the Sport Cycle Pacific's copy. So a few things are not as legible...not a big deal, but there is a difference.

I replaced it because I wanted more peak power. Heading back from the Arizona rally two years ago, you may recall we were fighting a 30+MPH head wind. I had to fasten my tank bag and pulled over, losing you guys to the stream of traffic. It put me about 1 minute behind you, but it took me 10 minutes to catch up because I could not get the bike to go over 110MPH into the headwind. Frustrating!!! I decided then that I needed more peak power. I am not sure if it was a good decision or not. The gains at the bottom were more significant than the dyno shows. I like to putz along in top gear at 50MPH when I commute, and when I had the Quat-D, the engine felt right, but now I have to downshift just to cruise at 50mph to make the engine feel right. When the muffler cracked at the pipes, it was a bother, but it was not reason enough to give up on it, especially after reinforcing it. I still really want a similar under gearbox muffler, but a two into two design.

To fully appreciate the Quat-D you have to ride it. Yah, it is metallic sounding, kind of like Staintunes in the metallicness of the sound. The mufflers will not impress an audience, just the rider, who will understand how STUPID it is to point the exhaust behind the rider the way conventional mufflers do. Pointing the exhaust behind you is for people who want to deafen others but not themselves. Moving the exhaust closer to the rider is an experience that I won't even bother to describe, kind of like trying to explain great sex to a virgin. Mufflers behind the rider are kind of like whacking off so loudly the neighbors hear you. Take your pick.

I got my Quat-D from the north american Ghezzi Brian Rep. Mr Arnold Barnhart Territory Manager Geographic Services Inc. Cyclone Motorcycles 500 Windmere Circle Corinth, TEXAS 76210 Phone 214-727-0148 Fax 940 497 3148 e-mail: ratdog@airmail.net He did not take credit cards, but he was great to deal with. If you order from Europe, you could probably save some money. In anycase, I would say that a PCIII is a MUST for the Quat-D. I had HUGE changes in my map. I can provide the map to anyone who wants it, but a custom dyno run is a must as my TPS reads a little low. Todd Eagan read my TPS in parking lot. It read 250 mV at idle, but note that I keep my idle at about 1000veglia RPMs and my valves are .15/.20 which will both help in a lower TPS reading at idle. I am not sure what the reading would be with linkage released and screws out. Here is the dyno again. I am pretty positive if they started the run at 2000 rpms, the Quat-D would show more torque. Just follow the direction that the blue lines were heading.

To hear and see this movie of the Quat-D you will need Quicktime: http://www.scripps.edu/~dlaing/v11s/quatd.mov For some reason the microphone in my camera picks up on a metallic ringing sound that is not present to my naked ears.

Enzo, There are two links there. One for the Owner's and and one for the shop manual.

What a Scrooge!

Here is another nice addition to the list: From http://www.rossopuroitalia.it/v11.htm They also have some lower mounting set.

1190 and counting

I was using dial up for the past year, so Al really blew me away in total posts. I just got DSL so 2000 posts is not far away.

Ok, that settles it, I will get some of the generic bike bond stuff. Perhaps they are all really threebond 1104.

Welcome fellow y2k!

Thanks Emry, the Hylomar blue looks perfect because it claims to allow metal to metal contact and it does not set. http://www.hylomar.co.uk/universalblue.htm The Threebond 1104 semi drying liquid gasket does not look bad http://www.lockhartphillipsusa.com/pages/p...sub3.asp?id=642 Perhaps it is too thick??? From the description, I am sure it will seal well. The Hondabond 4's description seems lacking "elastic" "resists gasoline" but no mention of heat and oil. It may be fine, but I will be looking for the hylomar blue or permatex.

Thanks Jason, That is just what I am looking for! And yah, I don't like the idea of that silicone stuff getting where it should not be. This stuff should do the trick and not mess up the dimensions like a gasket.

I have not been doing clutchless shifts because too many knowledgeable people have suggested it is a bad idea. But you guys now have me convinced to give it a try. I have noticed that with proper timing, the less clutch I use, the smoother it upshifts. So as an exercise, I suggest one tries using less and less clutch as one discovers how to time it properly. There really should not be a risk of damage in the learning process. The increasing smoothness of shifts is what one is looking for. So what are the benefits? 1 The shifts should actually become smoother(I am not sure about this, but it may be the case) 2 The clutch will wear a little less. (I think this is not a huge improvement because most of the clutch wear probably occurs launching the bike off the line) 3 Once you get the concept, your clutched shifts will be even smoother! What are the disadvantages? 1 You get a limp left wrist....

Howdy Y'all, Just thought I'd follow up and say that my GEI relay has lasted about a year now. The Bosch were failing on the starter relay after just a few weeks, due to overloading of the relay as discussed at http://www.guzzitech.com/RelayFailures-David_L.html I highly recommend the switch to the GEI relay for the starter relay (forward most relay) on early V11 sixspeeds. Your mileage may vary, but if you use the horn or the flasher, it makes a difference. But of course the rewire that Gary mentions, is an even better idea.

What is the best way to fix a leaky gear box if it is leaking at the gasketless metal to metal mating faces? 1 Clean the faces, and reassemble? 2 Clean the faces, seal with something like silicone non hardening, Permatex®"form a gasket", and reassemble? 3 Clean the faces, seal with something like a non curing, honey like, gasket dressing, and reassemble? I kind of like the third idea, but I can't remember what product had that honey like consistency. Also, it could be a bad idea, and I need YOUR input. Thanks in advance!

quat-d.comhas some good photos of the new muffler. I also like the ex-box muffer that they made for Ducati

Being a previous owner of a Quat-D Muffler, I miss the sound AND the low end power. What the dyno does not show is the torque from idle to 3000rpms. I used to be able to cruise at 2500 rpms where now I have to down shift to get 3000 rpms. The sound is not as musical as the Mistrals, but the Quat-D made the bike feel alive. The dB is definitely lower than the Mistrals to the spectator, but to the rider it is louder and feels like it comes from the engine rather than from the rear of the pike like a distant memory... As for the weight I held it in one hand and the stock can in the other, and found the quat d heavier, but not as heavy as the crossover and one can together. But keep in mind, the weight is lower and more forward, which is where you want it. Other advantages are luggage potential, and less likelyhood of damage if you drop the bike. As for the cracking, I would not be too concerned. My stock crossover cracked, too. And it sounds like new ones are better. I am still happier with the Mistral because of the peak power, but peak power is not for everyone. The Quat D muffler does not create less overall power, it just moves the power down in the rpms. Below 4500 RPMs it is stronger and in the twisties, there is less shifting. But if you want to go over 130MPH the Mistrals do it much more easily.

My girlfriend and I bought a house almost a year ago, so I have been a slave to it. I have hardly had time to ride or post....plus I still have not fixed that leaky gear box that prevented me from making that track day I will however do my best to make it to the toy ride. Do you have any details on the toy ride?

So-Cal Guzzi Events I probably won't be there but you should try to make it!

I don't understand why you would not claim that. You seem to be splitting hairs about whether the ECU or the motor define the power. But the ECU is a big part of the picture. The stock ECU does not appear to be well optimized for power, or efficiency. From what I have seen of before and after PCIII, the map is changed so that more power is gained. Sometimes the gains are minimal, but there have ALWAYS been gains from Guzzis who have dynotuned with the PCIII. Of course the biggest gains occur when the PCIII is use to correct the mixture for modifications such as aftermarket mufflers. My 2000 V11S had a 2 into 1 exhaust system that made huge HP gains after remapping. See: http://www.scripps.edu/~dlaing/v11s/DL_V11S-vs-StockV11S.jpg for the dynochart. The mixture with the stock ECU was as bad as 17:1, I was lucky not to burn a valve. Granted that if you have stock mufflers and are tuned properly, your mixture will not be off by THAT much, but I would be very suprised if a stock Guzzi was producing maximum HP at all RPMs. And of course, the greatest benefit of re-mapping is not the HP, but how well the bike runs. Todd's website is packed with testimonies: http://www.guzzitech.com/PCIII-Endorse15M.html As I hope that yours will also someday be: http://www.jefferies-au.org/My16M/My15M.htm FWIW I see the My15M as being a better solution in the long run because I see one ECU as being more reliable than both an ECU and a PCIII. I also suspect that the PCIII could be used in conjunction the My15M to quickly zero in on an ideal map. Regarding the loop issue, I like the idea of adding fuel monitors such as those from K&N. With these fuel monitors you could monitor changing conditions and how they effect the mixture. As good as the PCIII tuning link is, it does not produce a map for every condition. (Although it does measure temperature, air pressure, and humidity to theoretically optimize the map) On board feedback could be a good thing. Closed loop on a lambda sensor could also be a good thing as long as it does not create lean surging and unpredictable rideability.

Here is how I would grade the tires that I have tried: Bridgestone OE Handling B Traction A Wear D (rear wore fine but front cupped after 2000 miles) Avon Azarro II Handling B Traction B Wear B Dragon GTS Handling A (quick and predictable, but perhaps too loose) Traction B Wear B Contiforce Handling C (high speed wobble, but otherwise excellent handling) Traction B Wear B (note the contiforce was super cheap! and an excellent choice for slower riders) Metzeler Sportec Handling A (but like the Pirelli, maybe a little too twitchy, but I think the Metzeler was just a little better than the Pirelli for handling) Traction B Wear C (front is wearing fine but rear wore out nearly twice as fast as any other tire that I tried) Dunlop D220 WOW! what a tire! Handling A Traction A Wear ? (too early to tell) Note that I am still using the front sportec with the rear Dunlop and it seems to be a fine match. I am not sure how the Dunlop front will do... Has anyone else tried a D220?

convertibars sells a cable that is one inch longer. $28.95 US plus plus Also a good place to get longer hydraulics