dlaing

Why, other than aesthetics? Theoretically two outlets could produce more HP. But that is not an absolute, and may even be hogwash, but I believe it is true. I certainly would not put a Quota exhaust on a V11S, but I might put a V11 S or Jackal exhaust on a Quota. It is also nice to have the sound balanced to your ears like properly positioned stereo speakers. But, I found that sound felt more like it was coming from underneath the bike than to the left of the bike. Still if the sound was balanced it would increase the pleasure factor to me.

I don't think their welds were the reason my Quat-D cracked. I think there is just alot of vibration and stress where the header pipes connect to the muffler. The same is true for any crossover. But a crossover gets some support(and stress) from the slip on mufflers. In any case my stock crossover also cracked. If they could get performance close to Mistrals with a Stucchi crossover, I'd fork over the money all over again!

It makes sense that the lower octane provides better fuel mileage. You could also use a power commander to lean out the rich spots, but then the bike may run hotter and burn valves if you over do it. so maybe lower octane is better (until your bike pings) I remember hearing that Will Creedon said his bike(Sporti or Daytona???) would run fine on 87 OCTANE after he had remapped it.

Additional note: If you are going to replace the line that runs from the Petcock to the fuel pump, it is a 12mm fuel hose. My OE steel braided 12mm hose was still in pretty good shape after three and a half years and a few tank removals, but with all the clamping and unclamping, I thought it was best to replace it. No steel braiding this time... Also note: the Nissan pathfinder filter fits in the clamp better than the Isuzu. but the Isuzu filter is larger, so it may last longer??? So, go with what is important to you.

I know Todd Eagan is running Sun rims on his Jackal which has V11S front forks. I am not sure if he needed spacers or if he used the original hub, but it does show that you can at least make the front spoked. The rear may be trickier. Spoked whees could make the bike look like it should!

Darn, I spent hours searching yesterday. In anycase, I am sure they would have been closed on Sunday. Here is what I came up with: In US autoparts stores there is a product brand line called "HELP!" made by a company called Motormite. They make a 90 degree plastic elbow with 3/4 inch hose barbs. It is Help! part number 47037 and it is for the PCV (not pvc) system on 1984-86 GM 2.5L engines If you are looking in junkyard, it goes over the valve cover on such an engine. I'd look for light trucks that may use that engine but it may also be in mid size cars. A 45 degee angle would be better because the oil would be less likely to pool and the line would run straighter, but this should be fine, and is certainly up to the heat and oil task that it was designed for.

Thanks for the tip RatchetHack. I'll keep my eye out for a nylon fitting at home depot. A quick search on the net seems to indicate that nylon should hold up better to oil...not sure about heat. Here is the damage...note how it is loosing its roundness and becoming a little triangular.

Some bad news. My fix did not last. I developed a leak. The upper PVC joint is fine, but the lower joint gets too hot, deforms and the pvc cement seal breaks down. So, I am going to look for a better solution. Possibly brass fittings. Half Inch ID brass pipe fits the hose fine. I just need to find a 45 degree angle coupling with the right solder joint or threading... Will let you all know what I come up with. FWIW I may not have primed the pvc before gluing, so that may have been one reason it failed. But the pipe got hot enough that it deformed enough to compromise the seal against the hose.

Gary, Does the relay harnass fit in the headlight bucket? FWIW, I don't think this was GGuzzi's problem, because he probably would have experienced headlight and tachometer failure before the starter failure, as the starting and lighting contacts in the relay are different. But I suppose the heat generated by the high current could have caused the relay's solenoid to fail early. In any case, your elegant solution should drastically reduce relay failures and in addition, improve the lighting! To more completely take a load off of that relay, a dedicated horn relay would be a benefit. The GEI relay is doing the trick for me, but I have tested it for less than 2000 miles, not bad considering how fast I was burning through the Bosch relays. I think I went through five of them in less than 3000 miles. Dan P. was sceptical at first of GEI's amp rating compared to the Bosch. But it does seem to last longer. When my GEI fails, I will follow your solution and I would follow it regardless of the GEI working, but I want to test the GEI for longevity. As you said, "The NEED is real !" No BS! I can't believe more people have not had the starter relay blow on it's lighting contact. But there have been many starting problems and interestingly tachometer failures(people may not notice their headlight failing, but they will notice the tach fail) To test the GEI relay, I have been driving around at night with the high beam flasher held down, and at other times, blaring the horn at every opportunity, increasing the current through the GEI. So far so good! PS bshpilot, great tip on how to check the clutch switch.

I'd have to check the wiring diagram, but if the headlight does not dim when the starter button is pressed, it most likely indicates that the starter relay is not getting any power to its solenoid. So, the problem is upstream, most likely at the clutch switch that Mike Stewart suggested. But also look under the starter relay(the forward most one) to see if any wires have been disconnected. You may not be able to look, but you can get some fingers under and try pushing the wires in. The starter button could also be the culprit, but they are known to be very reliable(Go Domino!) Who makes the clutch switch? Brembo, Grimeca, ??????? ? You might try holding the starter button while repeatedly pulling the clutch in. (disclaimer: BE SURE YOU ARE IN NEUTRAL WHEN YOU DO THIS)

Nice Work! Although you made it tougher on your welder, I think the flap he suggested would not make it easy to remove the steel wool. But I am not interested in removing steel wool. Two different ideas would be to increase the tube size of the core or to shorten the overall muffler. Increasing the core size might be difficult unless you find second hand muffler cores, cheap. (from a wrecked muffler???) I have a friend who made a muffler core for his Suzuki out of perforated aluminum heating duct material. It worked great for about a year and then disintigrated, so aluminum is not up to the task (except for maybe short term races, etc.) The way you cut the muffler suggests that you easily could have shortened the muffler. I like this idea, because it would bring the exhaust note towards the rider, and slightly reduce back pressure, and reduce rearward weight. The trade off might be that it messes with the lines of the bike. For the same reason some do not like the staintune muffler for our bike because it is shorter. Thanks for the post. I was thinking of smoothing and widening the exit port, but it appears that gains would be minimal because the core is just as narrow as the exit port.

I am too lazy to read the wiring diagram right now, but the clutch switch, ignition switch, kill switch, relay(s), and misc. connectors could all cause the starter to fail. But also the ignition in general could fail which is really deadly if you cut out in front of cement trucks on a daily basis. If it is the ignition in general, look to the kickstand and neutral light switches as well as everything else. If you have more details, we can narrow it down. examples. lights on, turn signals work, horn works, high beam works, high beam flasher works, fuel pump comes on then stops, relays make only one clicking sound when key is turned on, relays make more than one sound when key is turned on. neutral light is on oil pressure and alternator lights are on. brake and taillight work. headlight dims when starter button pushed, headlight does not dime when starter button pushed. starter makes clicking noise. noise is single click, noise is ratchet like noise, no noise, etc.

HERE!!!

Converting to an an LED taillight could save about 4 or 5 Watts. ~ $50 with inferior output...but if you are good at circuit board soldering, for about $100 you could wire up enough LEDs to fill the stock lamp and get wide bright light. Or maybe get an LED taillight from a Japanese bike as some of them work very well. Converting to an an HID Headlight could save about 20/30 Watts. ~$500 with arguably better output. (Some suggest the higher spectrum light is bad for night vision as it contracts the pupil.(following the same logic, amber lights would be better for night riding)) An LED daytime running headlight might not be a bad idea. They make LED headlights for bicycles, but they might look odd. Brake lights and turn signals would not be as important as they can run off the battery, unless you are forgetful about turnsignal or tending to drag the brake foot Has anyone noticed the alternator on the 1100 Breva? Is it more powerful? It would probably be $2000 retrofit. enough rambling

cool! they even have blinking ones! That would be perfect for getting your attention...and driving you crazy when on your last pint-o-gas

This also eliminates the excessive load on the starter relay on the earlier bikes!

Yah, that is a problem, those will not fit in the valley but they may fit on the ridges. With that uncertainty, the best routed would be to rubber mount them to reduce vibration and let them float them on a slab of rubber, over the valley. But this would also require bolt sleeves and a rubber washer on the back side, in which case the bolts are not long enough. Drat!

I checked and mine was set to side B, so side A does not help. I shaved the ramp down about a millimeter as I am afraid to muck it up. It seems to add a little more to the turn, but I am still less than 1/4 turn. So, I did some web surfing and found that many trial bike accessory places carry the Domino line of throttles and carry both slow and fast pull throttle tubes for them. So I may go that route. It would be nice if I could just by the slower throttle tube, but the complete assemblies are only about $20 US, and the tubes may be interchangeable. I may checkout some dirtbike stores so that I can see the product rather than just a photo. I could not find anything enlightening here http://www.domino-tommaselli.com/ These are pretty! http://www.valpolini.com/images/domino.jpg made by Domino, marketed by valpolini for Jackal/Stone

From this website I found some clamps that may offer a little more adjustabiliy, for or aft, for those going this route. These are for 1-1/8" dirt bike bars such as ProTaper, Hebo, Domino, Renthal, etc. Cheaper ones can be purchased that are not adjustable. I am assuming the bolts on these are long enough to go all the way through our triple clamps, but I cannot be sure. http://www.lewisportusa.com/parts_bars.htm

If you need evidence that the recall exists, I think one could look at the US DOT website. I don't know what they have in other countries. Sweden is so known for legislating safety, I am sure you have rights to protect you. Sorry to hear the distributor is such a jerk. As for the other things I had done, the de-glazing just means sanding the clutch plate and fly wheel surfaces so that the plates grip like new. While doing that, they can check for warpage, etc. The other things that I had done are not relevant, other than that it gave them an opportunity to make money off of me while doing needed maintainance. So both of us benefitted. The engine oil drain plug was stripped(not by me, and my mechanic claimed not by him, so it must of been the factory! ) The Original Equipment (Genuine Guzzi) crossover had cracked where the pipe comes out going to the right muffler. (that may have happened when I crashed on the left side... )

As much as they are overburdened, most people have no problems with the Bosch. I have never met Dan, but have corresponded with him by email regarding these issues. After I brought the problem to Dan's attention, Dan searched hard to find a relay with Highest Amp capabilities in the size we need. From what I understand Dan has a business and writes these sales into it, at a pretty minimal profit as you can tell by his price with lifetime warranty. He probably makes about $0.33 per hour selling these. Is he a saint? I'll let you be the judge! The starter relay is the device that cuts the power to the headlight, etc., when starting. When not starting all of the current that goes to the headlights, etc., goes through the underated 87a terminal. If you never use the high beam headlight flasher or horn, the Tyco and Bosch would probably hold up fine. If you never use them and you are failing, it could be another problem like the seat, and or vibration. I don't use the horn often, but I do use the high beam flasher alot at night, and hold it in going around curves. This puts alot of stress on the relay's 87A terminal. The starter relay is the furthest relay forward on 1999, 2000 and 2001 models. (I believe, but could be wrong as some relays may be out of order and guzzi changed to the improved relay set up in 2002?, so that the current goes through a 20amp relay connection.????)

Hey Johnk Koester (guzzi323), I like the set up! What model mounts and bags are those?

The X confuses me too, but with better than 99% certainty, you need the recall work done. Do have them check the clutch while in there. I had them deglaze mine, fix a strip bolt, weld the oe crossover, and do oil changes and some spline and shaft lubing. It cost an extra $200, but it made them happier to perform the under payed labor. If they still give you grief, contact their distributor and they should be able to verify that you are entitled to have the job completed. It took me three months to get the parts and three weeks for the labor to be completed....

Perhaps you just to hook it up to the computer, zero throttle position out and reload your map. If that does not work, post about the possibility of firmware fixing the problem on www.guzzitech.com 's forum. Todd Eagan would be sure to see your post there.

I just re-read GEI's specs and sure enough a 2 after the second A in AR4-012 -A21S indicates a diode. While a 1 after C in AR4-012-C11 indicates a resistor. FWIW I believe the AR4 means automotive relay series four. The 012 indicates 12 Volt. the second A indicates SPST (four pin) and the C indicates SPDT (five pin) The last number( a 1) indicates the terminal spade size, 4.8mm. The S indicates sealed. And checking the 2000 diagram, the fifth pin missing would cause the headlight, etc. to be without electricity And yes, it looks like all(If I read the diagram correctly???) the relays have polarity in the reverse of what Dan said would be needed to work with diode relays.