dlaing

But then why would that cause the fuse to blow?

I take that back! If there is no fifth pin, it should not even get power to the headlight, etc.

Yah, that would make sense that the A21S relay would cause it to blow. What happens is that because it is a four pin, rather than a five pin relay, it does not kill the headlight, etc. when you hit the starter. (It was a four pin, right?) Anyway, you should be safe to use the GEI P/N AR4-012-C11. For me, it has been a more reliable relay than the Bosch. My headlight and tach would cut out after a few hundred miles on the Bosch. But I still have many miles of testing to go before I can say it is the perfect solution.

Do you have a picture of the brackets on the bike, without the luggage? I like how you positioned the bags further back than the Hepco Becker bags. FWIW I certainly considered low bags when I had the Ghezzi-Brian Quat-D muffler. If I was only getting more peak power, I would have kept the muffler.

So, Hawker Genesis G13EP (13Ah) 10.8lbs Part number 0770-2007 Length 6.910 (175.51) Height 3.282 (83.36) Width 5.113 (129.87) is just a little smaller than the the Odyssey PC545 (12Ah) 12.6lbs Length 7.0 (177.8) Height 3.37 (85.6) Width 5.17(131.3) The Genesis is smaller, yet with more amp hours. but it may not be available as their website does not really promote it for use in motorcycles. I wonder what their sales people have to say??? FWIW I am stll on my original battery, which has never let me down.

I think Genesis is a model of Hawker brand batteries: You might try Hawker G13EP (13Ah) Part number 0770-2007 Length 6.910 (175.51) Height 3.282 (83.36) Width 5.113 (129.87) Tip courtesy of Martin Sanders on the MGCL Hawker Odysey battery PC925 is recommended for many other Guzzis, but I am not sure if it will fit.

500 mV is an estimate and assumes that your CO, valves and idle are set to something kind of specific that nobody has bothered posting (to my knowledge) The 'factory method' is to measure voltage with the idle screws fully retracted, and to use the lower voltage of 150mV, according to the manual, which specifically (correctly???) says, "27CARBURATION PROCEDURECheck of the starter control cut-outIn the event that the throttle valve potentiometer has beenreplaced, removed or deregulated, before carrying out anycarburation procedure it is necessary to adjust it onceagain, following the below instructions:•Detach the connection rod between the throttle bodies;•Using a tester, check that the potentiometer with theclosed throttle body indicates150 mV. If the values aredifferent, loosen the two fastening screws andreposition it correctly;•Adjust the throttle bodies using the adjustment screwuntil bringing the idling speed opening to 3,2°-3,6°;•Attach the connection rod between the two throttlebodies;•Check that the by-pass screws are completely closed;•Bring the RH side body’s adjustment screw flush;•Connect a vacuometer to the sockets on the intakemanifolds;•Adjust the cylinders’ equalization using the throttle bodyadjustment screw;•Check that the equalization is maintained inprogression;•Check that the engine’s idling speed is 1050 r.p.m.;•Bring the oil to a temperature of 80°C;•With the engine idling, check that the CO value isbetween 3% and 3,5%. If this is not the case, adjust itby varying the Trim.EPROM value on the software’sActive Test page.•Check the r.p.m. and the equalization of the twocylinders once again." Yah, it reads like a bad translation, and you probably don't have the $500 diagnostic software...which is why Ian's and other's instructions are so valuable.

Thanks Emry! I'll take a closer look. I thought I remembered someone saying something about that, and I even peaked inside to see if there was a different groove running parallel...but there was not, but as you show there is another side!

It does sound like you need more fuel. At Wide Open Throttle a little imbalance or TPS being off, should not make a big difference. If you get a PCIII, there are four major advantages, 1) you reduce overly lean conditions that can cause burnt valves and detonation. 2) you reduce overly rich conditions that may lead to detonation from carbon build up. 3) a little more power 4) better rideability.

They just took a major hit to their reputation. The paint would not do that to the clamps. Overtorquing might, but they should have designed the allen head to strip before cracking the clamp. I am not an engineer, but that is an obvious manufacturing defect, which I would not hold moto international responsible for. Clearly the manfacturer blew it, sh^t h@ppens. Put it on eBay, spare no details, count your losses. Did I mention I am happy with my convertibars that I picked up on eBay? I do feel a little more vibration, as I have no bar end weights and went back to the stock mirrors, but the quality and adjustability are very good. Longer hydraulics and throttle cable are next...next year..

Yah, I would not ride with that crack. If it splits while riding, and eventually it will, you are gonna end up with a loose left bar and your weight falling off the bike. Of course you could duct tape it on...

Good point! the question then would be, will the throttle pull more cable? that is, will the throttle stop stop the pull?

Is this the part ? http://www.guzzisport.com/parts/catalog/v1...v11sp_gsj03.jpg I will have to find a translator, but I seem to remember someone saying they sell only to Japan.... I also like their frame braces!

How many Zerks are there on the shaft assembly? On the front union I seem to remember I found two. One was easy to get to but the other seemed to need a smaller fitting. I think there were also two on the rear union.

I would insist on speaking to a manager and give them a second shot. Their reputation is too valuable to hang out to dry on an anomally like this. This is clearly a manufacturing defect and the clamp could not handle the torque. Worst case scenario you could sell the set and someone could benefit from all the remaining good parts as the part that cracked on your set should be the last piece to break in a crash. But TBR should warrant it after seeing the photos.

Our throttles are quarter-pull throttles. I am seeking a throttle that gives more leverage and greater throttle control. In the twisties it would be nice if a couple millimeters of throttle movement did not upset the bike as much as it does. Sure I am getting better at controlling it, and it is exhillerating to blip the throttle an eighth of a turn and watch my girl friend's toes go over my knees as she nearly falls off the back, but I am too old for this shit and want a mellower control of the throttle. Perhaps a half-pull is too much leverage and movement so, I'd be constantly readusting my grip.... Are there any alternatives out there? PS (somewhat related) for what it is worth, convertibars sells throttle cables that are one inch longer than stock for anyone raising bars.

Perhaps it will safely allow for lighter return springs, for limp wristed iron butts.

....never mind. Thanks Docc! The same thing happened to mine. I put it in a vice and all was fine. Part number 6 was starting to come apart, presumably because when it was reasembled, it was not keyed in, so when part 6 was tightened on to part 5, part 6 started to come apart leaving too much distance between moving parts. So, when you reattach part 6, be sure that everything keys into place!

So I just had the recall on the tranny done and 8 miles down the road the speedometer fails. When I get home I take the cable apart and everything appears to be fine. I can turn the speedo with a drill with the drill attached to the part between part 5 and 6, so all appears well. I suspect the part between part 5 and 6 is no longer long enough and that part 5 now sits too low. however when I measure it, it appears to be the correct length. I am confused. The other possiblility is that the cable or part 6(angle drive) is worn. Sometimes when I put it together it will work, and then it stops. I am going to try the drill test again and maybe take it back to the dealer. But right now, I think I need a bicycle speedo.

My experience has been relays, relays, relays. Swapping relays has always fixed my starter problems as well as the problem of my tach and headlight going out. In an emergency, you should be able to swap one of the other relays for the starter relay. Assuming the others are matching relays. If relay swapping does the trick than you will need to order a new relay http://www.dotnet.com/~pyrodan/relay.htm Under $5 !!!!! I wonder what Guzzi charges...

Whaz that in yur ears? Popcorn?!? Vivaldian is what it is!!! If any of you want to check out the PDQ dyno results presumably of the original dyno run, go here: http://www.scripps.edu/~dlaing/v11s/PDQDyno.jpg

I talked to the Moto Euro bike's owner and one of his buddies who rode it and both said the bike was awesome with power everywhere. Dyno shoot outs are ego trips not for everyone, but it would probably be the only way we would know for sure. Personally I think we should trust Ferracci's results (give or take a couple HP)until proven otherwise. If we were alll looking just for HP none of us would buy Guzzis, but more Power is fun to pursue. Reliability is another issue.

What is the chance that a traditional tonti framed bike's tank would fit our frame? This would be an awesome tank (28liters): http://www.wbo-racing.de/produkte/moto-guz...tour/index.html

Don't worry you will get it eventually. Just attack it visually from every angle. You will then see that the crossover is hung by two nut/bolt pairs. So, you need two wrenches, one for each nut and one for each bolt. It is that easy.

My parts took over three months. Bike went into the shop late Saturday. They are going to do some other work and are very busy so, it should take about two weeks to complete. Will let you know of the success. It was occassionally missing upshifts to third gear. Some days were good and some were NOT.