dlaing

It may have been strong enough with the five speeds. I'll bet Carl's Sporti does not have this problem. Maybe the lack of extra support to the Transmission is why the 2000/2001 were squirllier handlers. Does anyone out there make custom frames out of titanium?

That is more than just mufflers, right? K&Ns and tuning link, stock crossover? Nice results!

This probably is not too different from a Quota exhaust system. Just louder and more free flowing.

You know, I can't remember. Let me get back to you on that. I don't think I have to go back for the gear, I just upshift again, but I don't remember if it goes into third or fourth gear, Alot of what I am getting is that it will go into third, but not as smoothly as the other gears.

Paul, have you checked to see if your transmissiion is covered by the recall? You probably do not have a VIN for it, but wasn't it from a 2000 sport?

You should atleast put a 7 inch header on it. But damn it looks good!

Thanks Kiwi Dave, my brain wasn't working right. I was thinking of the current dropping as the resistance INCREASED. Would the difference in resistance be significant between 12 and 14 volts?

I just finally noticed this article on Guzzitech dot com: http://www.guzzitech.com/Lighting-kurtz.html It shows a 1976 LeMans before and after adding a dedicated lighting relay. I am pretty sure we won't see as dramatic of a change but I am sure it will be an improvement. If we add one relay for high beam, one for low beam, and one for the horn, the original lighting relay, year 2000 starter relay, and 2001+ year key switch should get a nice break. Heck, our lighting and horn may both become more bright and loud. I just hate strapping more wires to the frame. The lighting relay will probably fit in the headlight housing, and the horn relay can fit behind the horns. Ooops, you and the physicist are correct, not only will wattage rise, but amperage will also rise as voltage rises. I believe the other factor in the equation, resistence will drop as voltage rises across a filament, but probably negiligibly.

Hey Tracy Martin! Where you been? I thought you gave up on the Goose. Funny thing about shift quality. My bike used to find false neutrals for maybe the first 10,000 miles, then I went about another 10,000 miles finding only about 3 false neutrals in 10,000 miles, than after about 20,000 miles it started missing again. Could be that my bike is due for an annual oil change, but it could be the recalled problem. My misshifts now are all upshifting to third gear while previously they were in no specific gear. I still blame some of it on technique, but it is unforgiving shifting to third now. Monday I emailed to make an appointment, it could be a long wait.

I started out on motorcycle semi synthetic for atleast the first 10,000 miles, possibly 15,000 miles, and consumed almost no oil. FWIW I babied it durring break in. I switched to Motul full synthetic motorcycle oil and started consuming oil shortly there after. I now consume about a liter every 3000 miles! I think I am going to try a different brand. I'd also like to check the valve guides since I am at over 21000 miles now.

I believe it will draw the same amperage, but the wattage will go up when the voltage increases. The 55W rating is kind of theoretical and the actual wattage depends on the available voltage while current is flowing and manufacturing tolerances.

And the Corbin fit better over the battery than the stock seat. But damn the Corbin is heavy. I guess the pan will never break.

And if they don't buy a bunch of accessories they are in trouble... But I guess everyone does. I guess I'll pay to have them do a full lube job, so they can have some beer with their beans and cornbread...

Make sure you can get this on and off the bike. The headers have to go forward to be removed, so anything in the crossover area cannot hit the oil pan when the headers are moved forward. If you know what I mean. For example, my Quat-D muffler would not have been removeable if I had welded it to the headers. The stock crossover may however be small enough that it could slide forward. Your cylinder should be designed with that in mind if you are welding it on.

On my Y2K the front most relay is the starter relay.

Here is a thread on the helmet: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1235&hl=

possibly. I took apart one of my failed relays and the coil looked like it may have been showing signs of burning. It was difficult to see if there was pitting on the contacts. The resistance across the contacts was greater than a brand new relay, current flowed, but not enough to power the lights, etc. One of these days I'll put an ammeter on the lighting and starter relays to measure the current. Unless someone beats me to it, hint, hint. Perhaps the horn being on while braking is the only real bad scenario. FWIW the relays rate the amperage at 14V, so 10Amps at 12V should be easier to handle than at 14V. I suspect that when John blew his fuses, the solenoid was not activating the starter, so the voltage stayed high (12+ Volts) when he held in the button. Under normal conditions, when the solenoid activates the starter, the voltage should drop, Although the amperage remains potentially higher than the fuse rating, the reduced voltage reduces the wattage, and thus the fuse does not blow. Of course there is a moment of time when the solenoid is engaging that the voltage remains high until the starter is activated, but that moment is too brief to blow the fuse.

What do they pay per hour? I hope Seattle dealers get more than Iowa dealers. (Because of cost of living, labor rates, and real estate rents) I thought I heard MGNA only pays credit towards parts, and not cash for labor.

And San Diego, too???? Let me know if you need a place to stay! I am sure Captain Nemo, Dave G., and Ian J. will have room for you, too. And in the San Francisco area, I am sure others have room and or motorcycles to lend. Does Moto International rent bikes? Keep working out and getting stronger. You will have to ride hundreds of miles a day here.

PS Uh red, not read. Thanks Jaaapppp, you are pretty smart for a Dutch guy.

Will you Seattlers care to let the rest of us in on your secret West coast Rich guy? Comfy looking seat. I like the read stitching.

That probably explains why the crossover on 2003+ machines have better midrange. (raised compression aside) I am not even gonna attempt to crunch those other formulas!

JR the PCIII and the ECU both maintain there memory, so no worries. Docc, did you measure the amps with an amp meter or calculate from the rated Wattage values? Good catch on the amps for the headlight going through the headlight switch. Although the tail light current does not pass through that switch. So, it should be less than or about 5 Amps. In any case, I would expect the headlight's current to eventually degrade that switch such that seperate high and low beam relays might not be a bad idea for those looking for greater longevity and reliability. FWIW when you hit the high beam flasher the current through the starter relay should also rise above 10 Amps. Also in addition to the headlights, horn, and brake lights, the tachometer, fuel light, oil pressure light, generator light, are all on the same relays, but probably do not draw much current. I recommend not using the horn or Hi beam flasher until your relay is upgraded, except in emergencies. One can of course keep replacing the relays as they do seem to last, despite being under rated. From what I understand the red/black wire going to the voltage regulator is there to tell the regulator how much to regulate, and not to power anything. An additional consideration is that the amp rating on the relays may experience a real world drop due to road and engine vibration.

sorry, I am confused. I keep getting about 3 or 4 inches instead of about 30 or 40. Am I reading the formula wrong? I took CID of 32.45 x 1900 and got 61655. I took 61655 and divided by the rpms times 4. (I got the 4 from 2 inch diameter squared.) So if we used 5000 rpms we would divide 61655 by 20000 and got 3.08275. This can't be right, can it?

Update! I have been running the Real Gaskets since September without a leak. FWIW my OE gaskets leaked unless I really cranked down the allen heads. Just tight enough that they do not loosen is all that is required with the real gaskets.