dlaing

What is an accelerator pump? I could guess that in this case. it is not a pump, but an increase in fuel when throttle is increased. Such that the ECU determines rather than a simple map position to determine fuel, the ECU determines that a change in throttle position has occurred and more fuel is added to the map than it would be for holding a map position. Is that correct?

Check this one out!

I'm sure my friends at Moto Euro can get that issue out to you. Just contact them at www.moto-euro.com. I'm trying to get a copy of the article to publish on the FBF website. I think the article is going to be published in a European based magazine also. For the record, that bike was around 97hp. My LeMans has around 90 without the internal engine mods. Here are some details from that article: They give credit to Ed Perry and Victor for bringing Guzzis to FBF (thank you gentlemen). 40mm stainless steel exhaust valve 47mm ss intake valve "mild" porting high domed pistons, each 28 grams lighter than stock and raising the compression from 9.5:1 to 11:1. Lighter and stronger wrist pins. FBF air box conversion. FBF carbon slip-ons. FBF H-pipe crossover PCIII and dynotuning by the living legend Eraldo Ferracci. Stock the bike ran a best HP of 77. After Modifications, 95HP. Eraldo alledgedly claimed that using separate filters on the throttle bodies add an additional 7 or 8 HP.... I doubt it. I suspect that the 7 or 8 HP gain Eraldo was refering to is a gain over an unmodified airbox, and the article's author was mistaken. Total price for all of the modifications and service which included more than the mentioned mods, $2811.63. Other work included oil change, brake pads, head guard, and perhaps more stuff My biggest concern would be the increased compression's effect on pinging.

It is not rocket science, but it is not as ABC either.For some things you need a computer and a CO analyzer, but most of the time you can ignore the CO and keep the bypass screws set close to what MPH recommends. A power commander and dynometer with O2 sensor would be nice to have, but most of us can barely afford a trip to the dynometer. Still the power commander can get you much closer to perfection. Balancing is pretty easy, just be sure to balance at 2500 to 3000 RPM then idle then 2500 to 3000 RPM then idle then 2500 to 3000 RPM then idle. Each check only takes seconds,(if you have a decent meter, (dial gauges are lousy)) but do not overheat the engine if you are struggling with the adjuster.

You betcha! I'd like to hear about any and all products for our bikes. I got the FBF airbox kit and I am very satisfied with it. Many have posted about Mike Rich's excellent porting and valve work, but we have heard little about FBF's work. They offer a lighter higher compression piston, larger valves, porting, muffers, airbox kit, cross over, fender eliminator kit, and who knows what else. Little has been said other than mention of the Moto-Euro bike, the airbox kit, the mufflers, and now the fender eliminator kit. If anyone has tried these products it would be good to hear from you. I have heard something bad about every crossover produced. The Mistrals crack, The Stucchis don't fit right, The FBF leak at the junctions, My Quat-D even appears to be cracking a little at the welds, but no apparent leak. I think the Evoluzione kit looks great, but could confuse motorists, and possibly result in traffic citations. The FBF kit is almost as slick, but a nice compromise. I like my fender, I even wish it had a big Italian license plate, a mud flap, more reflectors, running lights and brake lights. But I understand that is not for everyone. I tried going quadrophenia with the mirrors but just got confused when looking into one of four mirrors

Glad to see you posting on this side of the fence I am just curious as to how you know that the vibration is caused by the looseness of the clamps? FWIW most of my vibration occurs under accelleration, not backing off on the throttle. You might also check that your throttle bodies are properly seated on the manifolds and are tight and balanced. Best of Luck,

Absolutely no offense taken. Also, no offense was meant with the use of the word assessment. I was just playing with the seat of the pants dyno concept. I should be more careful with these words.... And I brain farted and should have written, ' From the dynos that I have seen of the Stucchi I believe your seat of the pants "assessment"' not, 'From the dynos that I have seen of the Stucchi I believe your seat of the "assessment".' Maybe you did not even notice...anyway, a lame pun. And you are correct about dynos, I don't disagree. I just get a kick out of seeing the dyno graphs and seeing what all the options for our bikes can do. If your bike's top speed increases or your quarter or half mile times increase or you are all of a sudden pulling wheelies, you know you got a power increase. My bikes dyno result shows power similar to the mistral stock combo, but I can still get the bike to do over an indicated 130mph,(not down hill or down wind) which is fast enough for me. I guess it is fast enough, but it would be nice to get up closer to 140 veglia miles per hour. Although there is nothing worse than a bike whose top speed is regulated by the redline and not the power. On my V65SP I was once following a Corvette and an FJ1100 down the MacDonald-Cartier Freeway heading from Toronto to Kingston. I had modified the speedo so that it would not pin, and we were going just below my redline for a couple minutes, but when we hit a down grade they pulled away from me

The Stucchi is very different than the mistral. From the dynos that I have seen of the Stucchi I believe your seat of the "assessment" I know you don't care, but here is a comparison from Manley Motorcycles. The bikes compared are different so I suspect the Stucchi's curve would actually be equal to the stock crossover in everyway with a significant mid range boost. So just add one or two HP across the board for the Stucchi. Other riders comments on the Stucchi parallel your comments, so I think the adjusment to the graph is warranted. This compares the Stucchi with I think Mistrals to the Mistral crossovers with Agostinis(which should be the same as the Mistral mufflers)(but I might have that backwards regarding which is which...)

Thanks for the post Todd! Now I feel better about my muffler It is an interesting compromise, that many riders will prefer.

!@#$ing what you pay how much? Is that USD? I pay $15 Aust dollars for the geniune FIM thing. Suggest you give an independant supplier a ring such as TLM Harpers Stien dinise or whoever is relevant to your area. What?!? and pay for shipping! I have better things to pay for. Here is an article that convinced me that the Walmart filter is fine. http://www.micapeak.com/bike/ST1300/Filters.html There are other articles out there that say they are no good and that Fram are best. So go figure. It is your choice. Unless someone proves to me that the SuperTech suck, I am sold that they are equal or better. $10 saved every 6000 miles, after 60,000 miles thats $100!

has anyone dyno'd an aftermarket crossover with stock mufflers? If you had before and after results, that would be interesting.

http://www.manleycycle.com/Tech.htm#MotoGuzzi The website was missing tech reports for a while, but seems to be in order again. I wish they would do some more exhaust dynos.

that is a link to a fuel filter thread, not oil filter. Fram PH3614 will fit but construction is questioable, so I would not use it. WallMart sells the SuperTech ST3614 for around $2 (vs $15 for the Guzzi filter). This filter is made by Champion labs, is better constructed than a Fram, and has a 94% multiple pass efficiency rating. Just be sure to remove the decal on the filter before you install it. (Tip from Tracy Martin, off of the Wildguzzi.com site) Not sure where he got the information from, but I bought one and it looked well built. And the seal lined up perfectly which is the most critical issue when using off brand filters.. Also the Amsoil SMF125 is supposed to work and is likely of equal or better quality to the OE filter.

Bob, If you want to maximize your peak HP you probably only need to bring the peak map numbers closer to 0, Todd could give you a good idea what would work. Can you or Todd post the graph? Bob and Scott, Very nice looking mufflers!

You sold me, I just placed an order. I hate cellulose gaskets, even if they are a pretty aquamarine color! Now maybe I won't have to torque the bolts down so darn tight.

That is basically the right order, but be sure to double check the balance. So the process will look more like. set tappets then turn engine by hand and check again. adjust tps then move throttle up and down and check again. balance intakes at 2000rpm (I think it is best to start with the higher rpm first. I think some recommend 2500 or even 3000 rpm, but don't over heat the engine!) Balance intakes at tickover balance intakes at 2000rpm. Balance intakes at tickover balance intakes at 2000rpm. Ride!

They look great to me. Cabling should be be ok up to a certain height. They only list Lemans. I wonder if they intend for these to go over or under the upper triple clamp.

What was your TPS with everything connected before setting it to 525mv? The 525mv number that Carl suggests is for a bike setup with specific valve, mixture, and ide settings. From MPH's site: TPS 525mv idle 1060 +/-50 CO 1.90% air screw 1/2 Turn MPH's site does not mention the valve settings. I would guess they are using .10/.15mm. Increasing the TPS not only makes it run richer, but also changes the ignition timing which might increase pinging. If your valves are set to tighter US standards, your throttle bodies will have to be more open to keep the idle up. If that is the case, the 525mv reading that you got may really be too low. Likewise, if your valves are set to the much looser raceco standard, your throttle bodies will have to be more closed to keep the idle down. If that is the case the 525mV reading may really be too high. And of course if you change one spec other things get thrown off. I like my valves set to .15/.20mm, this requires a more shut throttle position, so at idle, my bike reads 260mV. But don't judge the appropriate mV by my bike as it would ping at these settings around 5000 rpm if it were not for the Power Commander. I do however recommend the .15/.20mm settings.(not that the other settings are wrong) Are you getting any popping or misses?

I thought I read somewhere that chromoly push rods should have the valves adjusted with the engine hot. Perhaps the same should apply to titanium???

Checkout these fine instructions: http://www.mphcycles.com/frame11-technical.htm http://www.guzzitech.com/EVTuneup-Jeff_B.html http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007/tps/TPS.html

Yep you can use that Bosch number for all. Long answer.... The only odd relay requirement is for the headlight relay which is designed to dim when the starter relay is activated. But you do not have to worry because all the Bosch relays of that number will work for the headlight relay, as well as the others. The headlight relay uses one more terminal than the other relay sockets. That terminal simply goes unused when the relay is used in the other sockets.

The Bosch number you have is definitely right for 2000 and 2001 model years. What year is your bike? Did you buy it new?

Oooops! I swear I read that three times! Then the remapping should be no big deal. If you were previously tuning linked you probably just have to enrichen a little. If not, I am sure someone has a map for Stucchi, aftermarket muffler, and open air box. In fact check out Salomon M's Map (not yet available) http://www.guzzitech.com/PCIII-Maps.html PS the aftermarket air box kit is fairly LOUD.

Go for it! You will get more power. But you will need a Power Commander or other mapping solution if you want it to run well. If you are low on money, I would get the power commander before the air box kit, as the benefits are much greater.

I just got an email from Giamberto Scaccia from Technoresearch. The Motorbike Digital Dashboard is now available and priced at only $199. http://www.technoresearch.com/products.htm The link to the Dashboard is not working at the moment. I'll bet they are updating it. From what I remember it can display just about any ECU parameter. ie. RPM, TP, temperatures, barometer, voltage, etc. If one wanted to fine tune their power commander without a Dyno, the only better way would be with a data recording Palm. Now the question is, to get this, or the Motorbike Diagnostic Software for Palm, or both??? http://www.technoresearch.com/PDA_MDSTOverview.htm