dlaing

Arnold Barnhart can sell them to you. They do cost a bit more than the dymags. They are also available in dark grey. If you want to go with perimeter brakes, he can also get you set up....for a price. The front wheel is 1.6 kg less than the stock Brembo. The rear is 5.8 kg less and comes with the rear hub and rear wave disk. (good bye rear disk groan????)

White powder? Tweekers suck! Assuming it is not cocaine, it probably only indicates the failure of the last battery. I don't know where the main grounds are. The wiring diagram appears to show that the two main grounds are along a line running from the battery to the voltage regulator. The parts catalog image of the wire harnass shows one ground line that looks like it is designed to ground somewhere near the top of the transmission.If it grounds to the engine you may want to add a ground to the frame. If it grounds to the frame you may want to add a ground to the engine. The more grounds that you add the better. But do not discount the connectors, fuse blocks and relays as possible culprits. There are grounds running through the wire harnasses that are connected under the tank. So pull the tank and silicone lube the connections. Pulling the tank may also give you better access to the voltage regulator and other connections and grounds. (And it may be a good time to replace the fuel and or air filter)

If anyone else is having trouble with the website, atleast take a gander at Zeb's sweeeet bike!

Well, since your rotor now appears to be warped, the pads will probably spend less time rubbing and producing heat! As long as the warpage does not turn into a pulse while breaking, you are probably fine. Check your bearings and splines when you get a chance. Keep an eye out for heat build up and make sure you have brake pedal free-play. I am going to try to remember to give the brakes a firm squeeze followed by a roll forward and another squeeze before riding, to liberate and lubricate the pistons.

We'll have to change your name from Geezerx to Greasezirks.

I put dielectric grease wherever I can find a fitting. Battery connectors. ground wire on ECU. ECU connector. Relays. Fuses. If you take the fuel tank off, you will get access to more wire harnass connectors. Also reach under the relays and push up on the wires going into the relay connectors. It is possible that there are loose wires there.

The seal can lift right out. I have not done it, but I saw my mechanic have the seal out and was greasing it up. I am not sure how he pried the seal out, but it just flopped back in, and was definitely in need of grease. He did this to one wheel bearing when the other was being replaced. Gnarly shrapnel!

Stucchi, Mistral, or FBF crossover will give a lot more mid range power. I am not sure where the cross over modification will add power, but it will add power, for almost no cash investment. Swiss cheesing the lid is the cheapest way to go, but be warned that the intake sound is alot louder. I like the sound, but not everybody does.

I have noticed that the service schedule is kind of incomplete. Pete Roper's post about greasing the rear axle splines was inspirational. I suspect there is alot of maintainance that should be done that is not listed in the shop and owner manuals. So, lets compile a list: 1) When removing the rear wheel for tire changes, grease the rear axle splines and wheel bearings. 2)protect your electrical connections by coating with dielectric silicone grease atleast once per year.

Drain it down to the correct marking. Measure several times because if you do not insert the dipstick correctly, it will give a false reading. Note that there are two drain plugs at the rear of the pan. You should have used the lower more central drain plug to drain more oil out. If you did not, that may indicate why so little oil drained out and why you are now overfilled. It is good that you checked the level after filling!!!

That is what I was going to suggest! Or get the MDS diagnostic software for our ECU. Probably not as accurate as a scope....

I had the rear groan, my dealer lubed the caliber, groan disappeared, groan reappeared, replaced one of the rear bearings, groan disappeared, and went a long time without a problem. I may hav had to lube one more time...cant recall. Then I heard about the brake lever clearance issue, so, tested to see if two sequential 60MPH rear brake only stops would heat the brake fluid enough to reduce the clearance, the good news, it did not.....the bad news, a week later I noticed the groan reappeared accompanied this time by disk warpage. Anyway, that is a good point that the heat could cause premature bearing failure or the bearing failure could cause the brake to rub and for heat to build up. Anybody got a source for aftermarket rear brake disk?

My Tach stopped working the other day until I shuffled the relays around and then it started working again. Could be a coincidence. Also my tach needle flutters after riding for about an hour or so. ThermoElectric problem???? Put about 180 trouble free miles on the bike today....

If you want the poor man's largest something for almost nothing, try swiss cheesing the top of your airbox. It is good for more horsepower, more noise, and leaner conditions. ....so you will want to get a remapping or possibly get by, by tweaking the TPS. But keep in mind that tweaking the Throttle Position Sensor will not effect the mixture at Wide Open Throttle. If you want to save your airbox lid because you are not sure it is a good idea, get the FBF airbox kit. The BMC filter that optionally comes with the kit, appears to be everything the K&N is, ie. Compared to stock, less dirt filtered, but better flow if there are no bottlenecks. If you get the K&N but keep the airbox lid and restrictive snorkles, you will only let more dirt into the engine. The snorkles are the bottleneck for power. The combination of no lid and a gause type filter does allow for more power to be developed....or atleast my observation that my bike ran leaner after installing the FBF kit seems to confirm the potential power gains. Leaner means more air is being drawn in, so that if the mixture is correct, the engine will develop more power.

couldn't voltage drops due to bad connections cause the relay to fail. For example if the relay is only getting say 10.9 V rather than say 11.3 V, then it might not activate, especially if the relay is getting old and tire. So relay, I mean really the problem still could be a bad connection that makes the problem worse when the relay does not click over due to a lack of voltage, or the relay does not click over with enough force to get a good connection.

I had a similar problem this past weekend. the Tachometer went out, I cursed! I filled up with gas and it would not start, I cursed again! I pushed down on the fuses, and then it started. I drove home and it lost ignition a couple of times and stalled twice. And then it would not start again. I switched all the relays around and then it worked. I noticed that if I leave the middle relay out, everything still works, what it up with that??? I think I'll order another set of relays from Dan P.

How about a Ghezzi and Brian frame? Handlebar weights. The glass and steel headlight could be replaced by a short lived plastic headlight, possibly an enduro headlight, assuming you want to be slightly road legal. Fenders, do you really need them? You could take of the rear cowling. The seat, take off passenger section, and cover with wet suit material rather than vinyl. Passenger pegs. Tool kit, who needs a tool kit on our so reliable bikes? How small of a battery could we get away with? I'll bet our starter is a lot heavier than a Ducati's, but that might be an expensive conversion with the conversion box adding weight. Remove oil cooler. This will shorten engine life, but you could probably make up for it with more frequent oil changes. Alternator. there has to be a lighter one out there. Rear transmission or whatever it is called, might be replaced by one from a small block guzzi???? Expensive and short lived modification Or get a much lighter Breva and see how big you fast you can make it

Any idea if that was front or rear disk(s) I think the front are semi floating and the rear do not float, so he probably converted the front...

I am sure it will be improved after a remap. Todd, Do you have any A:F ratio graphs of the un-remapped stock ECUs. I would have been certain that they would have been more off base than his graph shows. I know my bike made a huge change after the dyno tune. Of course my muffler was probably largely responsible for Lamda being sooooo off. Perhaps I gave the dyno dudes too much creative license. Attached is a before and after dyno tuning. Next time, I'll just give them Todd's recommendations. Thanks Todd for my overlays and all the help.

Did anyone notice the turn signals on that poindexter bike? Slick! But the headlights look like Mr Magoo's spectacles.

I wish Toyota built motorcycles! I am not sure I have the energy to lube everything... Anyway, I had the energy for a google search and came up with this: http://217.115.144.61/~michael/www.montecr...m/maintain.html

If nobody else is covering the road, maybe we should keep it a secret.

I bid $9.99 plus shipping if you can leave the mid sectional out so that the only guts left are the rear guts and the front guts, and then weld it badk up, so that the exhaust will make a more direct trip out. Or does the center guts support the mounting studs? What would be really cool is if you convert it to a straight perforated tube packed in ss and fg wool. But that would be more work then worth the while. I told you before how a friend had made a tube out of perforated aluminum, well it finally broke down after a bit more than a year of riding. What a mess, riding behind him as he is blowing out chunks of fiberglass wool!

That looks like an excellent lamda curve considering you did not custom map it, yet. Looks like Guzzi did a good job with the aftermarket ECU.

Docc, I have wondered the same. I have tried spraying silicone spray aroung the intake area to check for a change of idle, but could determine no leakagage. could be the leak is where I cannot get the spray.... And good tips Rich, The only thing I can add is check the open throttle balance then the idle balance then the open throttle balance then the idle balance then the open throttle balance then the idle balance then the open throttle balance then the idle balance then the open throttle balance then the idle balance then the open throttle balance then the idle balance then the open throttle balance then the idle balance then the open throttle balance then the idle balance then the open throttle balance then the idle balance then the open throttle balance then the idle balance then the open throttle balance then the idle balance then the open throttle balance then the idle balance then the open throttle balance then the idle balance then. ....well, you get the idea, but do not overheat the engine!!! A couple of check "the open throttle balance then the idle balance then the open throttle balance then the idle balance then" will do.