dlaing

Good question. On the carbed bikes of yesteryear, I think the technique was to set it so it runs best. If your idle speed changes at varying operating temperatures, I think that might indicate the screws are set incorrectly. I ran into a similar problem that probably indicates an air leak. I could back mine off enough, but not evenly. I backed the left set screw off all the way and then balanced as much as I could with the right set screw, getting the idle almost right. but the set screws only offer a small degree of adjustablity. So I had to adjust the bypass screws to get the balance right at idle. I ended up with about a full turn further out on the right bypass screw. It may be time for me to calll in the professionals....But the bike is running great....

A couple weeks agoI saw a Kawasaki 1200 with a fairing that looked kine of like the Magni fairing only with twin headlights. Very nice! The owner said it was made in Japan. The name did not stick with me long enough to remeber it ....I think it began with D. Did a search on the web but could not find it. found this though: from http://www.streetfighterdirect.com/acatalo...og/BANDITp.html They also have unfaired "Unatec T5 Twin Headlight Conversion Kit" Which may be cheaper than going through Triumph. And this carbon fiber one is interesting Here is another option http://www.aa16.co.uk/a16banditheadlightconversion.htm and another http://www.powerbronze.co.uk/newstreet/lights2.gif

I agree with you Carl, and an opinion about a road should be a collaborative work. One person's opinion is only worth so much. So how about: Country: Road Name: Curves: Twisties: Hairpins: scenery: Condition: Traffic: Weather: Landmarks: Speed Traps: Miles between gas stations: Restaurants: Motels: Or how about a Keep it simple approach, Road Name and Location: Comments:

That bites.... Drininking is the only solution.... Well, maybe not the only solution.... I would take some photos of the differences and return it ASAP. Best of luck,

I love lube threads What it all boils down to is what is most cost effective in terms of time and money. I can hear the difference between the engine running on dirty oil of only 1000 miles and a fresh oil change. So the viscosity does brake down enough to create more noise rather quickly, and presumably more friction and wear. So what is going to break down? Rings, Cylinder walls, valve train, Bearings, oil pump? So say you need a new top end every 50,000 miles and a new bottom end every 100,000 miles. Perhaps that is $1000 every 100,000 miles. I am just guessing. The point is that the cost should be weighed against the cost of oil changes. There are lots of strategies for oil change scheduling. You can change the filter every time or every other time. You can use dinosaur oil and change it frequently. You can use automotive or motorcycle oil. You can use synthetic oil and change it less frequently. For the most part, you get what you pay for. Synthetic Motorcycle Oil is arguably the "best" stuff to put in, but also the most expensive. Automotive synthetics are moderately priced, available everywhere, and will last a long time. Say you are low budget and do an automotive synthetic oil change every 10,000 miles costing $20 per oil change times 10 oil changes over 100,000 miles, which totals to $200 in oil changes. After 100,000 miles you should have money left in the bank for an engine overhaul with Carillo rods and FBF pistons. Now if you had taken exceptional care of the bike and changed the Agip Motorcycle synthetic every 2500 miles, and used the OE oil filters, your engine will be in better condition, but you will have spent $2000 in oil changes,!!! Nothing left in the bank!!! But your engine MAY go another 100,000 miles. Moto Guzzi recommends a happy medium between these two strategies.Nothing wrong with that. The Agip oil can probably go 10,000 and still be ok, but you'd be taking a chance. Personally, 6000 miles is fine. I think automotive synthetics like Mobil One and Castrol Syntec, are the best deal out there. Just don't expect to pay $4/liter and have it protect well for more than 6000 miles. I think they are only good for about 5000 miles. They do not have the extra protection that motorcycle synthetics have nor the durability of oils like Amsoil or Red Line. Now if you can get a good deal on Motorcycle sythetics, go with that. I found Motul synthetic for $25 for four liters. I feel very comfortable running it for 6000 miles. Another strategy would be to use dinosaur oil like Castrol GTX and change it every 2-3000 mile. It is more labor, but cost effective. The bottom line is that you can spend too much on oil changes, or you can spend not enough and pay Moto Guzzi later for new parts. I don't know of any study of oil changes versus engine repair, but I suspect if you use your common sense everything will be alright.

Sounds like a calling for www.v11lemans.com members to compile a collection of WORLD roads. Wild Guzzi uses these categories. State: Road: Highway: Condition: Curves: Traffic: Credit: Email: I think we can do better!

Your bike is quite a bit lighter! If I may ask, how much do you weigh? And if you measured your sag, how much is it? I am about 100 kilograms in riding gear and I am considering the 11nm spring for my OE V11Sport front forks. I believe that some of the riders (Mike Stewart??? Lex????) who are about my weight ordered the 10nm springs and ended up using pre-load spacers to get the sag "correct" It would be nice to get the sag correct without added pre-load. PS You have a great website!

Figures the Texans would like the D and D mufflers I like the two tone color scheme. So Mike, tell us more. How loud are they? Are you going with the Stucchi crossover? Have you burnt your leg on the pipe yet?

If anyone knows the dimension of the hose going from the tank to the fuel pump, could you post the inner diameter? Thanks in advance. And if you know a source for an aircraft or military grade of the hose, that would also be helpful.

bellissimo!

CBT Imports, importers of Staintune mufflers says, "There is never a need to internally service or repack a (Staintune) stainless steel muffler because the packing material is a spun stainless steel wool. It will not disintegrate or blow out, ever. There are no rivets and there is no way to open the muffler up to get to the internals. " I would not dare use regular steel wool because it will rust....and from what Docc said, potentially catch fire. I imagine the finer the grade the more prone to heat degradation or ignition it will be. However too course a grade and the sound absorbtion capabilites will be diminished....

I read it on the web, so it must be true, http://www.wildguzzi.com/Tips/tips_n_trick...ic%20Oil%20Tips But re-reading it, I guess it refered to late five speed sports. Do our six speeds have plastic cages? Or are they made of nitro glycerine?

In defense of 2000 models, mine now shifts flawlessly. It took about 12000miles to break in, I have not found a false neutrals in the past 8000 miles. I used to find the every few rides. I am not sure if it is a factor, but I keep the idle low enough, 1000 veglia rpms, so that it does not clunk when shifting from neutral to first. "Your mileage may vary" Also, I use synthetic, which some have claimed should not be used with our transmissions. knock on wood, the tranny will not blow now nor the next 1,000,000 intended miles. I better get riding...

Where can one buy stainless steel wool? It is supposed to last much longer than fiberglass wool. PS your Rosso looks great!

Have you actually read what some people have been through? Have a little compassion. Not everyone can afford to fix the bikes when the dealer refuses to. Most people have few problems, that is not what this list is about. This list is about discussing problems, getting them out into the open so that they can be dealt with. So a little whining is expected. You can put your blinders on and tell Moto Guzzi that they are doing a great job and that there is no need to increase quality control, or parts availability, but that is nonsense. If you had been reading this list you would notice how many times it has been mentioned for people to to stick through the problems that plague the bike in the first year, because once sorted few bikes are as reliable as the Moto Guzzi. Read the recent post titled Big Trip ....list of problems.....There were no problems! Many people added similar experiences. "Class Action Suits", good point, people should be content with the Lemon Law if they are so unlucky. (assuming they are protected by a lemon law and do not have to resort through bricks through shop windows and insurance fraud to get rid of their lemon) New Moto Guzzis are great bikes, but I would not recommend one to someone who wants Toyota Camry reliability out of the box. They are better suited for people who know which way to turn a wrench, who don't mind a little oil on their hands, and who have the disposable income to invest a little after market or who have the money to pay a mechanic to work out their problems. On the other hand, I would recommend a "well sorted out" Guzzi to any lilly handed yuppie looking for an easy ride..

So if there is no manufacturer to determine gap and resistance figures, what should Al do for his dual plug set up?

Bill's Bike Leading the Parked Pack

Welcome to the list, Jim! Have you been through a set of the pilots yet? How does the tread hold up?

Alright Gavin! Of course, that's how it should be. Come to think of it, I have not had anything go wrong since the tachometer was repaced a year and a half ago. That is not altogether true, I crashed once (My fault), The oil pressure light and alternator light have not worked in a long time and the tachometer will flutter a little after a couple hours of riding. Still on original battery. Replaced the relays along time ago. Have not missed a gear shift and found a false neutral in probably a year. (FWIW running synthetic 70W90 gear oil, NO molybdenum and the bike has 20000 miles on it. I think the transmission has to break in as I used to miss a shift every other week or so.) I keep the idle at 1000rpm because it is easier on the gears going from neutral to first gear. Perhaps that has helped it break in nicely. Longest trip I have taken was 1000 miles, no problem. Anybody else been having good luck?

Another option may be a fork brace. It looks like Guzzi may have put one on the Griso: http://www.motalia.de/assets/images/Moto_G..._Griso04www.jpg I have also seen a picture of a tubular steel fork brace that was fitted, but can no longer find it. I think it was on a pre 2000 V11S. So, a fork brace, proper oil level, oil viscosity, and the appropriate spring rate. I think the forks are thick enough, I just have a theoretical issue with the axel size combined with the unbalanced damping, which I think could be fixed with a fork brace....possibly made of carbon fiber. I can't stop imagining the axle flexing at the right angle where it mates with the forks. I have never run through front tires so quickly.... --Possibly Paranoid

twhitaker, Your bike come with threaded hose ends???? What year and model is it? I have a 2000 US model V11S. Thanks for the post! If anyone sees any other errors, or model to model oddities, please post.

1)GO SHOPPING! A. FUEL FILTER Recommended: Purolator F67221, Wix part 33310, Fram G4777, and Napa Gold 3310, which cross reference Honda Passports, Isuzu Rodeos, and Isuzu Troopers after 1992. Height 5.565" OD 2.175" inlet and outlet are 5/16" (8mm). Alternatives are the Purolator F43178, WIX 33023, Fram G-7404, and Napa Gold 3023, Which all cross reference the more recent years of the Nissan Pathfinder: Height 4.803 OD 2.205 inlet and outlet are 5/16"(8mm) B. FUEL INJECTION LINE (optional but recommended) About 6' (2 Meters) 5/16" (8mm) High Quality Fuel injection line. You should have plenty left over. A small length of the larger diameter hose going from the tank to the pump. I am not sure what size it is.... C. FUEL INJECTION HOSE CLAMPS (optional but recommended) Ask for ones that are less likely to damage the hose. 2.REMOVE THE FUEL TANK Do yourself a favor and run the tank close to empty before trying to lift the tank off. Also, wear eye protection to protect from splashing gasoline as the hoses are removed. There may still be pressurized fuel in the hoses. A. Remove Seat B. Remove Bolt holding down tank. C.Prop the tank up a few inches to hold the tank in a position that will allow better access to the hose clamps. D. Disconnect two lines on the right side of the bike. Look for the hose clamps. One line is a vent line and the other goes from the pressure regulator to the right fuel injector. Some may have removed the vent line. (NOT recommended) There may also be a second smaller vent line that will pop off on it own. E. Disconnect the fuel line going from the petcock to the fuel pump, the wire connector for the wires going to the petcock (if you have the electric type), and the wire connector for the wires going to the fuel level warning sensor. Keep in mind that the petcock may not seal properly an may leak when the hose is removed. F. Remove the tank. Nothing should have to be forced. Lift the rear a few inches, grab the front and carry the tank an inch or two to the rear and then lift the front of the tank up and bring the tank forward and up and off. G. Set down where it will not get damaged. 3. REMOVE THE FUEL FILTER 4. REPLACE THE FUEL LINES AND HOSE CLAMPS(optional but recommended) A. The line going from the pump to the filter is the most critical as it endures the highest pressures. The other lines are less accessible and require removing the airbox. B. Remove the airbox. It is held by one screw on the top, two down low towards the rear, and it must be disconnected from the throttle bodies. Reinstall the airbox, connect the throttle bodies first, rear screws, and finally the top screw. C. routing of the hoses is critical. 5. INSTALL THE NEW FILTER Be sure to get the arrow pointed in the correct direction of flow, from the fuel pump, through the filter, and to the fuel injectors. Non-OEM filters have a smaller OD (outer diameter), so shimming with duct tape or something is recommended. 6. Put the tank back on, lower rear first, but not all the way, than lower front onto rubber mounts, then lower rear all the way and make sure nothing got crushed. Raise the rear of tank enough to get access to the hoses and prop it up. 7. Re-connect two wire connectors on left and the fuel line from the petcock to the pump. 8. Reconnect two lines on right. Be sure to put the vent lines together and the high pressure lines together. The high pressure line on the right runs from the right fuel injector to the pressure control valve on the right side of the tank. 9. Double check that fuel lines are tight and then start up the engine and look for leaks. You may want to prime the pump by turning the key on and off maybe three times before pressing the starter. Holding the starter down for too long is a bad idea. give the starter a few seconds between each start attempt. Check for leaks, go for a short ride, check for leaks, go for a long ride but don't forget to buy fresh gasoline.

Doug Lofgren speculated that the Stucchi results in better power because of the position of the crossover. If I understand correctly, moving the crossover back results in earlier peak power, theoretically. The stock crossover acts as an expansion chamber and probably produces too many tubulents that effect the mid range. The mistral is a mystery as some get more mid range with it and some get more peak power. The FBF crossover looks as promising as the stucchi.

Does anybody's rear brake disk run cooler than body termperature? If I go for a ride on the freeway and do not use the rear brake, it still heats up to about 150 degrees fahrenheit ie. too hot to keep my hand there but not hot enough to get a burn. The rotor is looking shiny and more worn than the front even though I am light on the rear brake. I gave the brake freeplay and my groaning was 'fixed' along time ago by lubricating the caliber pistons. My guess is that the pistons do not float back in enough and still exert a little pressure on the disk. So perhaps disassembling the calibers and cleang the pistons with steel wool may reduce stickage??? I wonder if removing the rear brake would reduce fuel consumption and increase dyno output!?!?!

and if it died while riding, that is dangerous. I would suspect the kickstand switch or any relay associated with it. However if the bike is in neutral and it will not start, that may greatly reduce the chance that it is the kickstand switch. Most of the failures that I have heard of our starting failures and not stalls while riding. Also look for loose battery connections