dlaing

I thought a lost spark was when it sparked not only at just before TDC of compression but also at another point. Like on parallel twins with one coil it would fire simultaneously on both the left and right cylinders, so that it would alternate firing at about TDC of compression and TDC of exhaust or some other point in the cycles. Anyway, I did not know that a pair of plugs could be run in series like that....pretty neat! In that case ignore my previous comments...not that it would not work, but I think that you are correct that 5kOhms should be enough suppression for two resistorless plugs in series. And if the coils are the same size as stock, you may have to also shorten the spark plug gaps because you may be getting less voltage??????? Or get an ignition booster??? Can you tell which high voltage terminal is Positive? It may make more sense to put the resistor on the positive side so that the Negative side does not have to compete as much against the ground of the bike. Serial plugs seems pretty voodoo to me, but if it works, will there you go!

If it has different timing, then our dual plugging and hi compression running friends might benefit from it. The combination is alleged to increase HP by 7 ponies. see http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...=464&hl=playboy I kind of doubt it could be street legal and still get 7HP. But maybe it is only for off road use....like where? the bedroom with the bunny? And I agree that more sound gives a feeling of more power. Nothing wrong with that!

Are you sure that it is a 'lost spark' system? I did not think it was.... In any case I think it would be best to have 2 resistorless plugs and 2 resistor wires for each cylinder head OR 2 resistorless copper wires and 2 resistor plugs for each cylinder head. The red Magnecor wires look great and should last many years. But then again, premium copper wires may last even longer and cost less. Cheap copper wires insulated in fuel line will also last a long time. But I am not sure what you mean by a loop, so I could be off base of your question....

Glad you have an angel riding shotgun! You may have missed this post: Brake Drag Thread posted by John O'Sullivan Following the advice of that post, I adusted my brakes last weekend. (I am hoping to get better gas mileage now (dreaming)) I am not sure at what point the piston starts to engage, but assuming that it is at the end of the spring travel, I gave it about five millimeter more travel measured where you press your foot. I guess the pedal will bounce up and down a bit now, but atleast there is room for some fluid expansion without the brake pedal rising into the stop and causing more drag, more heat, boiled fluid, locked brake, and sudden death. I tried a couple of stops from 60mph using the rear brake to see if I could get the fluid to expand, but it did not appear to expand. Glad you are OK

nice valve covers but ugly cooling fins So I would guess GMC.

But I thought we need to protect the ECU from noise? Here is an interesting article: http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/DavidKucharczyk/ignition.html (pro nology) And more interesting info from http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/mc/it-motorcycle.htm (look to their FAQ for anti nology rant) The Magnecor list California and Centauro. Callithrix, if you can give Magnecor the feedback they want, perhaps they can list wires for our bike!!! This universal kit looks ok: http://www.cranecams.com/motorcycle/evowires.htm As does the one here, but you have to select your own connectors: http://www.tognottisautoworld.com/Products...ts/MSD/7879.asp Here are some cool products: http://www.heeters.com/sparkplugs.shtml copper core wire @ $1/foot indexing washers! cable splicer! NGK and Accel wire kits. I put 24 inch cheap carbon suppression cables on mine, about 28 inches would have been better. I plan on replacing soon.

Maybe here: http://www.avnet.com/em/en/nws/home/0,1759...P%3DPNW,00.html Not sure if this part number is right: 8-1447232-7

My manual says 3±0,2 bar to convert from bar to psi multiply by 14.508 So, it should be 43.524 psi ± 2.9016 Or for safety and simplicity rather than accuracy of conversion: 41 psi minimum 46 psi maximum Opinion: if fuel pressure gauges are as accurate as tire gauges, beware! And you have probably seen the pressure regulator and gauge here: http://www.evoluzione.net/

Be sure you are draining from the lower drain plug. It is a good idea to drop the pan every few oil changes to check for schrapnel. No special tool needed to change the filter if you drop the pan. But have a spare gasket on hand in case you tear it..... When you refill, perhaps start with three quarts, measure, add a litte, measure, add a little, measure, run the engine, let sit a few minutes (engine off), have a beer, measure, have a beer. etc. I would have guessed 3.5 quarts would have been fine...oh well. Damn it is hard to balance the bike with one hand and slip the dip stick in without hitting the side or dipping early. I like that idea for re-marking the dipstick for being measured while on the side stand, but be careful doing that too, as it will be even easier to early dip if the tide of oil has moved to the bike's left. I think all the lube shops I go to in my car ALWAYS over fill a few millimeters because they are going by specification and not measurement, or maybe they are using the have a beer method?!?!

OOOOoooo! So If we have resistor wires, we don't need resistor plugs!!!!

From my website here is some information taken from various sites: Seperate Filters for those eliminating the airbox. For those keeping and modifying the intake tubes from between the airbox and the throttle bodies a 2-1/4 inch filter works well: K&N RU-0600round, non-tapered, straight flange flange: 2-1/4" (57mm) width: 3-1/2" (89mm) length: 4" (102mm) For those connecting directly to the throttle bodies measure the outer diameter of the throttle body to match a K and N filter.click here for K&N Universal filters If anyone knows if some filters fit better, let us know.

Sorry that I did not document it. I installed the larger of the two fairings from Airtech Streamlining. I got a smoked shield for it from Zero Gravity. The larger fairing should not need modification to fit, although mine ended up rubbing on the brake resevoir bracket, but no big deal. My mounting was very simple: 1) Remove turn signals. You will have to think of where you want to remount them... 2) two brackets going from the turn signal extender mounts to the fairing. I used flat galvenized metal brackets designed for strapping 2x4s, 2x6, etc. Theoretically a couple of turnbuckles would be perfect. 3)split a hose in half lengthwise to be a bead along the circumference of headlight port in the fairing. This cushions between the fairing and the chrome headlight bezel. So the idea is to hold the fairing in tension against the headlight bezel using the turn signal mounts as the mounting points. I drilled the holes in the bracket so that I would have to push the fairing firmly over the headlight in order to allign the bracket holes with the turn signal mounts. The advantage of this install method is simplicity and a sturdy mount. The disadvantage is that the fairing aims with the headlight, so it may aim lower than you might have it otherwise. If I had not crashed, I would share pictures. It was painted a dark hammerite metallic grey to contrast the silver and the dark smoked shield was fastened on with Lockhart Phillips aluminum bolts and nuts. Very light weight, but a tendency to strip threads. I recommend using two nuts for every bolt and torque finger tight to not strip. I did not go with the dash option. I don't think there is much room for it with this method.

http://www.guzzitech.com/Windage-ed.html has a how too article. Looks like a lot of work and double the chance of leaks. But if it can save your engine from oil starvation, it is a good thing. What does a windage tray do? prevent sloshing and splashing of oil??? Perhaps strategically placed mesh will have a similar result without the need for gaskets, etc.

...and if it pings, just give it more fuel from the PCIII! ( perhaps a reckless solution, but I'll bet it'll be fine) Generally speaking more Ignition Advance gives more power.....up to a point. Watch for pinging in the area of 5000rpm.

Hey Dumb Ape! Hope you don't mind if my bowling team, The Drunken Monkeys, steals your signature quote. grazie!

Wicked! I want one! After losing peak HP with my Quat-D muffler, I have considered finding someone who could make a two into two muffler out of my stock crossover. I have no money now, but if you want to produce a few, let us know.

Excellent question! I can only guess that it is a combination of things but the crossover is the primary culprit. Technically there are sound waves and air pressure inside the exhaust system that allow the mixture to flow better or not. You have probably heard the term back pressure. The wave action is a little more complicated than just back pressure. The position of the crossover on our bikes probably boosts the power just after the hole in the rpm range. The lower rpms probably do not get the boost. The Mistral crossover appears to remove the most of the hole when used with mistral mufflers. albeit at the expense of top end power. (according to the dyno results at http://www.manleycycle.com/Tech.htm ) But according to Ian J. and others, the Mistral gives more peak power at the expense of midrange. I think they were using stock mufflers to arrive at that conclusion. The Stucchi removes the dip in the HP curve, and removes most of the dip in the torque curve, with no apparent loss of top end power. The FBF appears to remove most of the hole and boost the power a little bit before and after. So it appears to be the best cross over yet! The Quat-D on my bike appears to come in last place for power improvement. Similar to the Mistral/Mistral setup, it eliminates the dip in the HP curve albeit, at the expense of top end power. I also feel that the hole is reduced by running looser valves. But my seat of the pants dyno is in need of calibration! and it may just be taking power off the top and moving it lower. The new bikes with higher compression and the front crossover seem to have eliminated the hole. I am curious what the power curve for a bike with no crossover would look like and how a 2003 would respond to aftermarket crossovers?

Just replaced my 160 conti with a sportec 160 and it works great. No speed wobble! Tested all the way to 123 veglia mph. So the speed wobble was from the Conti and not the 160/60 sized tire. Could be i had a bad tire or my geometry is a little sensitive. Phil, let us know if you experience high speed wobble. I liked the contiforce below 90mph.

I think I have been running at zero clearance all this time as the lever rests at the stop! Kinda scary. No wonder I only got 16 thousand miles out of the rear brakes while hardly using. lubricating the piston helped get rid of the noise, but it was probably rubbing when hot and getting hot while rubbing. Not a good thing when it comes to brakes. Hey, perhaps this is why many of us suffer from high fuel consumption! Oh, and to bring up an old warning again, I had my rear tire changed the other day by a non guzzi bike shop and lo and behold they left the brake line detached and it was dangling near the exhaust. Atleast they seemed to torque the caliber holder bolt well enough, (another safety issue)

Do you think it was a bad idea to name the bike lemans, kind of to close to lemons

You probably already know this link: http://www.cyclegarden.com/guzzigirls_frames.html Back to Tachs... My tach starts fluttering after about 30-60minutes of riding. Once the bike cools down for a bit it stabilizes. Any ideas? Warrantable???

common sense seems to predict that the X crossover like the Stucchi should do bettter than an H crossover like the FBF, however the FBF dyno results on the Moto Euro bike seemed to suggest that the FBF crossover works well. Flow is difficult to predict. Looking forward to Victor's dyno results!

If nobody knows, you could phone around. I imagine the big dealers are the best bet, like Harper's, Teo Lamers, Stein-Dinse, Wilson's, Moto International, Motos Caparros, guzzino, agostini, etc. Finding a dealer close to where he lives is important.

Al, Maybe you need to gain weight I suspect it is a combination of things; suspension setup, how much the rider leans as opposed to the bike, and tire sizes. The 160/60 on my bike should risk scraping more than the 180 on a LeMans. I have not scraped in a long time, but my tire wear is nowhere near the edge... When I did scrape, I still had 3/8inch left to the edge of the tire, and that was with the 170 tire. but the sag was very low at the rear.

I have had trouble with Safari on the topica discussions. I use Safari here, cause its the best! And Mozilla on Topica.