dlaing

Keep in mind that it better to grind the foot of the kickstand rather than the point where the kill switch is. In addition to the rear being high enough, too much front sag will make the stand touch easily. Likewise too much rebound damping will keep the bike lower. More compression damping may help.

Why would you care about fuel mileage at the rare moments of Wide Open Throttle? I had mine dyno'd for 13.5 below and equal to 40 percent throttle and for 13.0 (I seem to recall) above 40 percent, but had them maximize the power output at wide open throttle with disregard for fuel economy. As long as I am light on the throttle I should get better gas mileage when I need to. (Paid an extra $25 to have the power maximized) I guess if you want to cross the Mojave at wide open throttle and not run out of gas, running a compromise of efficiency and power at 100 percent throttle makes sense. Perhaps you'll get better driveability if the Lamda curve does not jump around. And atleast you have two maps so you know where to modify. Dyno-Dudes only gave me the map on the PCIII despite my wanting to have multiple maps. Perhaps Todd can help me extrapilate how many map numbers will change the air to fuel ration by a decimal point. I suspect there is not a direct correllation, but perhaps it can be approximated from the data in the before and after.

I think when they dyno'd my engine it was equivalent to 3000 break in miles! Kind of unnerving when they run it past 8000 + RPMS wearing ear protection. If it did not drop a valve now, it probably never will. Keep in mind that all dynos are not alike, and that the fact that you guys both got less than I think we all would have predicted seems to indicate that you may have gotten more INDICATED power on some of the other dynos that people are reporting from. Callithrix got only one more HP than a stock bike in Las Vegas. So either they are not equally calibrated or the weather in Vegas is more conducive to high output numbers, (or both). If I compare my bike to the one in Vegas, I lost about 6 peak HP(and gained about 6HP at 4500rpm). It is possible that I lost that much or even more, but more likely only a loss of maybe 3 or 4HP, or so I will let myself believe

If you compare the dip to that of a stock bike you will see that on the stock bike it is MUCH more pronounced. So the Stucchi is doing its job. On this graph, stock is in red: http://www.scripps.edu/~dlaing/v11s/DL_V11...s-StockV11S.jpg

I found the Conti to have excellent grip in dry weather, and above average grip when wet. My only problems were the mileage may be less and the front end felt like it was going to shake at 110+MPH when I went to the Conti on the rear. This may have been because of the smaller tire size messing up the geometry. Other than that the Conti was the best tire that I have tried on this bike regardless of price. If you want to put your money where safety is concerned, replace your tires before the center tread reaches the wear indicator. Most people I know replace the tires when the center tread disappears, which is too late. Some even run through the rubber to the belt. NOT a good idea. (And yah, I have worn my Cheng Shin's to the belt when I was a lot poorer and inexperienced.) I just reached the wear indicator of my Conti, so I am not practicing what I preach...but it will be replaced as soon as convenient. I recommend the Conti's to anyone on a budget, Great Buy! But beware that mileage and stability MAY suffer. But my experience may be due to other issues. Safety is not a problem with the Conti's below 100MPH.

Alright Al! When you post your graph could you do a re-cap on your modifications? I was wondering how much of John T's gains are from the cam and how much are from the crossover. Theoretically the lightening of the engine effects acceleration but not dyno results, as I understand... Perhaps the differences in your graphs will give insight to what the modifications are doing. However the difference between pods and the stock box may throw a wrench into the equation. And then we will have to wait till you sort out the ignition advance for the twin plugs. Time to put some miles on her.

Whatever tires I have tried I have been getting about 5000 miles out of the rear and 6000 out of the front. The front usually gets replaced with plenty of tread left because it wears irregularly. History so far. OE Bridgestones may have been the most stable and almost the best gripping, but the front cupped like crazy. 5240 miles replaced rear with Avon Azarro II good tire but did not grip as quite as well as OE. about 6000 miles put on front Avon Azarro II good tire, less cupping than OE, stable. 10610 miles put on Pirelli Dragon GTS on rear, Best rear tire so far, but marginal differences. 12450 miles put on Pirelli Dragon GTS on front, Great tire, quick handling, but a little less stable. Much less cupping than preceding tires. 16,275 miles put on Contiforce 160/60, cheap but surprisingly may have the best grip of any tire, the only problem is the stability went bad! Scared to go over 110mph(veglia mph) But medium and low speed handling is excellent. The change in size had a large effect, but I am not sure about the high speed stability issue. 18,800 miles put on Metzeler Sportec on front. Feels very similar to the Pirelli,Perhaps a little better grip but possibly even quicker and more nervous. Now at 19,500 miles and the Conti is already level at the center wear indicator. Granted it saw more Interstate Highway miles than the others did. Still looking for a better tire, especially for the front. May even consider an old Metzeler Laser, but have hopes for Michelin. May try Diablo on the rear as it may match the front sportec ok.

Glad we cleared that up. We have all had our share of listening to "self proclaimed experts"

too many lllllllllllls in oberllllllllann. try http://www.obairlann.net/~reaper/bmw-bike/...es/lemans-bags/

Baldini's description of a roadside repair is enough to make me not carry a spare. The fact that the springs often break repeatedly suggests that a custom spring would be a better option than OEM(Guzzi), so if you are traveling and it breaks, you'll probably best off finding a garage and and make your own spring or have one professionally made with a soft, unstressed bend, and slightly heavier gauge than stock.

Roger, I take it that the dig on "experts" was not aimed at this list. Most advice here is pretty humble. as evidenced by this thread. You and Todd came up with the following: The following settings are for a @180# rider (total with all gear on). Front forks: Set sag to 1/2" (12.7mm) - we found this to be approx. +5.5 turns from full soft on the spring preload setting. Compression: +3 of 28 (max) from full soft. Rebound: +6 of 28 (max) from full soft We pulled the forks up through the triples @3/8" (9mm) or to the third line on the forks under the clip-ons, to maximize stability. Rear Shock: This bike was equipped with a warranteed Ohlins unit, so hopefully these will be within a good range for the stock Ohlins shock as well. Spring preload set to 1/2" (12.7mm) sag. +4 turns from stock position. Compression: +12 of 23 (max) from full soft Rebound: +24 of 39 (max) from full soft. I take it the sag numbers are the effect of rider weight only and not bike and rider weight. Todd is pretty good with suspension. FWIW he helped me out with my bike's suspension. His adjustments helped alot but what I really need are new springs, etc. It is good to hear people are dialing in the Ohlins. To help make this thread a little more complete, here are the recommended Scura settings from the manual: Forks: Rebound 13 clicks from closed Compression 13 clicks from closed Preload 13 turns i.e. 13mm Rear Shock: Rebound 14 clicks from closed Compression 12 clicks from closed Preload 15mm source: http://ryuv11.free.fr/v11/scuraohlins/scuraohlins.htm

I don't know... The data logger can PROBABLY log what it is doing so that you could document a map. I suspect the output in degrees of advance of the map would not be absolute with respect to Throttle Position and RPM, but would be effected by temperature, air pressure, etc. Just for kicks if the map looked something like this: 0 20 40 60 80 100 1000 5 5 0 0 0 0 3000 15 15 10 10 5 5 5000 25 25 20 20 15 15 7000 25 25 20 20 15 15 then reducing the TPS output would reduce the retarding. So, with dual plugs you might try increasing the TPS to reduce the advance, however at maximum throttle the advance will be the same regardless of TPS setting(atleast at any realistic settings.) However if the map looks something like this, the theory would be shot 0 20 40 60 80 100 1000 5 5 0 0 0 0 3000 15 25 10 10 5 15 5000 15 25 20 20 35 25 7000 15 25 20 20 35 25 So, if you know what the map looks like, you may be in FAT CITY or NOT. As you said, if a mapping tool were created, that would be what you need. Perhaps Cliff's ECU is the way to go, all the same it would be nice to know what is going on.... If you are confused by this post, don't worry, its normal.

I don't know... The data logger can PROBABLY log what it is doing so that you could document a map. I suspect the output in degrees of advance of the map would not be absolute with respect to Throttle Position and RPM, but would be effected by temperature, air pressure, etc. Just for kicks if the map looked something like this: 0 20 40 60 80 100 1000 5 5 0 0 0 0 3000 15 15 10 10 5 5 5000 25 25 20 20 15 15 7000 25 25 20 20 15 15 then reducing the TPS output would reduce the retarding. So, with dual plugs you might try increasing the TPS to reduce the advance, however at maximum throttle the advance will be the same regardless of TPS setting(atleast at any realistic settings.) However if the map looks something like this, the theory would be shot 0 20 40 60 80 100 1000 5 5 0 0 0 0 3000 15 25 10 10 5 15 5000 15 25 20 20 35 25 7000 15 25 20 20 35 25 So, if you know what the map looks like, you may be in FAT CITY or NOT. As you said, if a mapping tool were created, that would be what you need. Perhaps Cliff's ECU is the way to go, all the same it would be nice to know what is going on.... If you are confused by this post, don't worry, its normal.

http://www.technoresearch.com/products.htm I emailed them regarding price and got the following response: Dear Sir The price for the MDST2001(Diagnostic and Data recording) is $289 The price for the MDST2001(Diagnostic) is $219 Regarding Dashboard we are making some changes. we will let you know it availability soon. If you need more detail information do not hesitate to call at 248-3700042 Best Regards Giamberto Scaccia I think the Motorbike Digital Dashboard is even cooler than a GPS!!! You can buy the MDSTs from http://www.evoluzione.net/ I imagine Evoluzione will have the digital dashboard when it becomes available. The Data Recording version could prove very useful. Now I just need a palm® This could nicely complement my PCIII If anyone is planning on playing with the TPS to modify ignition timing this could be the tool. I am not sure but I think the data logger could probably log ignition advance at various rpms and throttle positions. Once you get a map of what is happening the TPS could be adjusted with greater predictability, or one could even switch to the HD TPS if it would produce more desirable results. The MDST is also great for trouble shooting other FI issues. I am not sure what the differences between the PC and Palm versions are.

Exwtk, Did you pry the cap off before attaching the hose? I was thinking an alternative fix to keep water out of the transmission would be to glue something like a bottle cap on top of the oil ventilation cap. Perhaps a cap from a bottle of fine extra virgin Italian olive oil would do the trick. It would have to be well prepped for the glue to hold... The fender idea is good because it also protects the shock absorber.

Lex, Are you using that with or without the original hugger (fender)? PS Every month by girlfriend swears by covering her "inner piece" with the pads with "wings" Sorry, bad joke and not true....to my knowledge. Here is another great idea: http://www.dansguzzi.com/fender.htm Personally I want an aluminum rear hugger that raps the entire upper half of the rear tire. Possibly mounting the license plate to be sprung with the rear wheel and fender, so that a fender eliminator kit could be even slicker...but I gotta think about that... On the front I want an aluminum fender with high strength brackets that will also act like a fork brace. I might want to talk to Evan Wilcox about that...

Al, Are you going to dyno before getting the dual output coils?

"dang"...it still rides great! I guess I did not NEED that much peak HP.

Thanks Paul for the link to the efi manual. for those too lazy for google.... www.dotnet.com/~dprune/efiman.pdf Great ideas Al. My only conern with piping in by the regulator is the piping getting too long. But it may be a non issue....

That is what I did with my v65. (remove the cap of the breather and attach a hose) It looks identical, but I would not risk modifying it without a spare....

Hey Jeff, I like the setting as it is a compromise. I have not tried the .20/.25mm setting. I'd like to do a comparison of valve adjustment effects on a dynometer. I have the impression from riding that the World Spec .10/.15 makes the dyno curve peakier and the .15/.20 gives better low end and a smoother power curve. But it is just a feeling. And I have been wrong about seat of the pants dyno results before.... And yah, I can't hear much if any difference in tappet noise. I guess the cam chain is too noisy....

Todd Eagan's Jackal versus My Sport! He would kick my butt in a quarter mile. Green is Todd's Red is before Tuning Link Blue is after.

My bike compared to a stock V11S dyno'd in Las Vegas. Thanks Todd for the overlay!

Way to go Al! You are about to hit 1000 posts and your posts keep getting better and better!!! Keep up the good work!

Great post Subhash! FWIW I like to put the bike in 6th gear and push it to get the engine into position for measuring the valve adjustment gap. Perhaps this thread deserves to be moved to the How To section. Here is some additional information: The First Thousand mile service consists of Replace Gearbox Oil 0.85 liters 80 W/90 Replace Rear Drive Oil 0.37 liters of a mix of 0.35 liters 80 W/90 and 0.02 liters molybdenum lubricant. Replace Fork Oil 0.400 SAE 10 Fork oil. Hard to believe this is required after 1000 miles, but the factory is notorious for getting the oil level wrong. Replace Engine Oil 3.5 liters Agip 4T Super Racing oil 20W50, many use 5W50 synthetics. Replace Oil Filter Fram PH3614 will fit but construction is questioable. Go to WallMart and get the SuperTech ST3614 for around $2 (vs $15 for the Guzzi filter). This filter is made by Champion labs, is better constructed than a Fram, and has a 94% multiple pass efficiency rating. Just be sure to remove the decal on the filter before you install it. (Tip from Tracy Martin, off of the Wildguzzi.com site) Also the Amsoil SMF125 is supposed to work. Clean Mesh Oil Filter. probably not necessary but the manual says to do it. Check Brake Pads Check Brake Fluid Check Spark Plugs NGK BPR 6ES gap 0.7mm Check Valve Play. Every one has a different opinion about this. Clearance specs (US): intake: 0.002" (0.05mm), exhaust: 0.004" (0.10mm) Clearance specs (rest of world): intake: 0.004" (0.10mm), exhaust 0.006" (0.15mm) I like mine set to 0.006"(0.15mm) intake and 0.008"(0.20mm) exhaust. RaceCo recommends 0.008"(0.20mm) intake and 0.010"(0.25mm) exhaust The head should be torqued to 40 N.M, or 29.5 foot.pounds. Adjust Fuel Injection. Balance Throttle Bodies and check CO level. Check for loose bolts. (Very Important!!!)