dlaing

I like the idea of the fuel flowing upward. I think having the pump intake as low as possible on the spine will help the priming of the pump. The highest pressure is between the pump and the filter so it is good to keep the line short and straight.

"I removed the tool tray, which gave me room not only for the PCIII but also for a larger tool kit." You guys really know how to think outside the box, (Al literally outside frame, and Brent not even needing a box! ) Thanks for the great tips! PS Brent, are you still using Siemmens relays?!? If they are, I guess they are improved ones....

Did you change to the raceco valve specs at the same time ast the airbox mod? I think the valve setting may have more to do with engine breaking, than the airbox. But just guessing.

Please don't tell me that I am only getting 61HP In any case, my bike gives me 10 times more than I need. The problem is that I would not mind having more power.

Nice job. Can you remove it without removing the cowling.

It is not a before and after, but the results from Moto Euro Magazine's Fast by Ferracci V11Sport are pretty inspiring. They took a 77HP stock engine and got a claimed 95 or 96 HP from 11:1 pistons, airbox kit, porting, bigger valves, H-pipe crossover and FBF carbon slip-ons. My guess is the pistons were responsible for atleast 5HP. The graph in the moto euro's article, (spring 2003) shows a power curve pretty similar to yours, but with a little more starting at about 5000rpm. 74ft-lbs at about 5700rpm. Of course, not all dynos read the same, and your curve appears to smoooother. With Hi compression pistons you might have to start worrying about retarding the timing and carrying octane booster around with you. I'll bet the biggest dividends are when experiencing thin air. I think the guy who owns the Moto Euro bike lives at about 5000ft above sea level.

...And yet John T's Rippin' Rosso rips through the dyno with most of the power coming from pretty minor modifications. Stucchi crossover, Agostini Mufflers, porting, and dyno tuning. He also has hardened valves, an aftermarket cam and engine balancing and lightening, but I think most of the power came from the first bunch of mods. I think some bikes have it and some don't, not that it can't be fixed. Sometimes I wonder if I broke my bike in too gently. It appears to burn no oil, but the power and fuel efficiency could be better. Atleast the Low and Midrange power is pretty good. I do recommend that everyone rush out and dyno tune, the changes are impressive.

That's more like it. Awesome machine. I imagine you should be able to pull red line in top gear pretty effortlessly. Nice. I just got 5 more HP on my bike from the pcIII, but because of my Quat-D muffler, I am getting less HP than your bike did when stock. Drat! Oh, well. It is still great to see the potential of our bikes.

I like to use the bpr6es because they are cheap and I like to throw them away every valve adjustment. Platinum is theoretically better than nickel and copper as it acts kind of like a spray nozzle on a hose to make the spark fly further with less required energy. But if your coils and lines are up to snuff, then the only difference is the longevity. But I like to throw mine away, because the compression washer is only really good for a couple of torquings, so cheap is good. NOTE: Above statements are purely opinionated speculation and as long is you stay in the right heat range, your choice is AOK. There was a thread about indexing a while back. I think that is worth a try. The trick is to get the open side of the spark plug facing the intake valve by spacing the washer so that it torques down correctly while facing the right direction. My only question is what size washer and where to get various gauges???

Mine does the same thing with the oil light and the charging light. The other lights are fine. I am 99% sure the problem is the bulb connector. I tried cleaning and siliconing, but it is still hit and miss, usually it does not work at all. I am considering soldering the bulbs on, or converting to LEDs. Or, maybe a connector and bulb from another bike.

I got tuning linked today. The good news is that the bike is running better than ever. The bad news is that I did not get 90HP, or even close. The map was all over the place, so mapping made a huge difference. I gained 3 to 5 hp almost everywhere! I will post the numbers and a scan of the dyno map another day. The good news is that I am getting good mid range power: 53.73 foot lbs or 42.89 HP at 4200rpm. Must be better than what stock was on my bike Peak torque 60.69 at about 5400rpm. not bad, not great... But only 73.16 HP at about 7800rpm. I may have been getting more with the stock bike, but I'll probably never know for sure. It may be getting close to time for carillo rods, fbf high compression piston, engine balancing, and Mike Rich porting. But then again, less power may mean less stress on the transmission and clutch, etc. I love the muffler and would not trade it, but if you are considering it, you may want to know that it MAY have less peak power than stock, but possibly more in the middle. It still has to be faster than 99% of the Californias on the road.

Hey! Are these numbers fudged?!?! At 3500RPMs the torque number difference between run2 and run3 is great, but not the HP numbers. Was the dyno operator smoking something? Or maybe it has something to do with the true difference between torque and HP?

So, could one put an extender on the sump pick-up? Or is the solution to keep your oil at the Maximum level? or higher? Or the baffling idea?

Excellent boost in power from 4000 to over 6000 rpms since your last posted dyno that was already pretty awesome! I can see how you are now SATISFIED

The only clique that I noticed was the clique that answers almost everything. I think it would be great if more people interacted about everything. Someone recently posted about Scott oil filters. An excellent post that got little response. Kind of a shame. I have made many posts that got no answer or not the answer that I was looking for, but I don't take it personally. Sometimes I do not post because I have nothing to comment on. Sometimes I do not post, because it is good to give others the chance to post. Sometimes I am too busy. And yes sometimes I do not post because the topic is boring to me. For example, I do not have a LeMans, so talking about the fairing is boring to me. Everyone has their own interests, and it is natural for those with the same interests to isolate into their own group. Probably the largest group of people on the list is the Californians. Many of us have met one another, so it does put a different spin on how we post. There should be nothing wrong with that. The Dutch may be the next biggest group. Again, nothing wrong with it. Although Jaap's taste in motorcycles is snobbish. And Carl's taste in women..... Oh, and Murray you can have her for $500/hour. But she has to wear a helmet her in California.

sport bike option: Gallasseti mufflers Stucchi crossover Budget bike option: cored stock crossover and drilled mufflers Touring bike option: not sure, maybe just the Stucchi crossover, but if you could find some low reverse megaphone mufflers... The ULTIMATE option: Quat-D (from Ghezzi and Brian) Any of these options with Ram Air looking for hand outs??? Sorry, spent my tax return on my bike.

RamAir is the way to go! image from http://www.guzzisti.it/

So the techron will probably cause the coke to flake off in smaller pieces than the water treatment, and therefore be less likely to damage the valves???

I have a few more kilometers on mine. 18,000 miles (30,000km) and I too had dark grey crud come out. Replace your filter every 20,000 km or 12,000 miles maximum. I thought since we get better gas mileage than a car, we would need to change the filter no less often. I was wrong. The Isuzu Rodeo (and I am sure many others are) is recommended a new fuel filter every 15,000 miles and may go through many more gallons of fuel, but clearly that is not enough. Interestingly, the nylon mesh filter attached to the petcock was almost completely clean! So what is getting into the filter is pretty fine crud. It looks dark like it could be dissolved neoprene hosing. Perhaps from the line that sits so close to the cylinder head....

LE and Evoluzione can provide heavier springs for the Sachs.

I believe there is no such thing as dead on. I guess I am knit picking. "load cell dyno"? Do you mean Dyno Dudes? That is where Pierre is going. It is interesting how tuners such as Doug Lofgren use a much different approach to creating a map than the tuning link automaton. Both have their merits. The tuning link may be better at getting the mid throttle mixture right, as it would be tedious to do it without the tuning link. The old school tuner is apparently better at maximizing peak power for every RPM. I am not sure which is better at making a more rideable curve. I should talk to Todd about how to make it rideable after I get the map from the tuning link. Because what you get in the dyno room does not match what you get on the road, some of the effort is lost. By maximizing power in the dyno room, when you enter the real world, half the time you are too lean, but thats ok because you fuel efficiency is increasing, but the other half of the time you may be running too rich. (that is assuming that perfection is an unreachable point, and that real world conditions will vary in equal directions of richness and leanness, which of course is not going to happen.) When your throttle bodies go out of balance, one will run too rich and the other too lean. By making the compromise in the dyno room and going with something like Todd's suggested 13.0/13.2 you are in a position to be ok when things are not ideal. Some days you may make more power than you did in the dyno room and other days your gas mileage will be better. I would still like to do multiple runs so that I can make a race track map, a canyon cruising map, and a touring map. I am going to try to make an appointment with Dyno Dudes next Friday!

I think it was from Sesame Street or the Muppets, 9 months after Kermit the frog met Miss Piggy in Rome.... ...just kidding, great looking fairing! But I do like the red more....

So, than is the sure way to pull the head and decoke it? (and then dyno tune it such that you do not build up carbon?)

Are you talking superchargin'?

How do you get the most from a tuning link session On guzzitech.com I have heard that an air fuel ratio of 13.0/13.2 works well. I think the ultimate would be something like, 12.6/14.1, give or take a few decimal places for maximum power and driveability. I used to think that the tuning link would determine your maximum HP on the fly. From what I now understand, a couple runs may be necessary to determine what A/F ratios produce the most power. I would like to do one run to determine a flat 14.0, one run to determine a flat 13.0, and perhaps a non tuning link run to determine maximum power and torque. I can then work within those numbers to make it driveable, clean, and efficient. What do you think? Getting expensive??? Unecessary?