dlaing

I voted for the airbox because of the evidence here Doug Lofgren's dyno tests But the evidence is not conclusive, just suggestive. Theoretically I think the air box will produce more power on average throughout all the rpms, because it is a two into one system and the restriction of the filter is shared between the cylinders. However if the total surface area of the pods is significantly more than the area of the flat filter, I would say that the pods should flow better, especially at high RPMs. I think the ultimate set up would be two forward facing ram air boosted pods with a tuned crossover. I went with the FBF kit because I am lazy and it works better than stock. I like the fact that I do not have to reposition the air pressure sensor anywhere, and I don't have to do anything about the oil breather. What do people do with the oil breather tube??? What I like about the pods is that they are easy to remove, they look slick, and they allow easy access to the shock absorber and fuel lines. Also, in Moto Euro Magazine's article on the FBF tuned V11S, they say that Feracci says, "I can gain another 7 or 8 HP by fitting separate filters to the throttle bodies," "We are working on that as we speak" Perhaps I should have gone with pods....

I would check Fuses (There is only one block of fuses, easy to pull each one and check, but I think you would have to blow more than one to get your symptoms) Battery connections (they vibrate loose all the time....) Kill switch (It could have been accidently killed) Relays (switch them around and see if the symptoms change.)

Hey John T. Do you have the model number and part numbers? Thanks in advance! I am interested in the shock absorber and want to make sure I get the right one. I guess my biggest concerns are buying one with a piggy back resevoir that will not fit, or getting travel that does not match the suspension linkage.

Perhaps you could find a 16in wheel. It would be a lot to pay for a small gain in gearing, the ratio would be just a little better than 69:72. So at 69MPH you would be reving what you would have at 72MPH. If you get a bonded clutch, they supposedly grip much more aggressively. Trade up for a 2003, or putting in a high compression piston set should give you the added grunt you want. Not sure how to handle the change in ignition timing requirements if you go the high compression route.

Okay, Here is a rough copy of a "How to change your fuel filter". Please correct or add your thoughts, We will let Al edit it. Thanks Al! 1)GO SHOPPING! A. FUEL FILTER Recommended: Purolator F67221, Wix part 33310, Fram G4777, and Napa Gold 3310, which cross reference Honda Passports, Isuzu Rodeos, and Isuzu Troopers after 1992. Height 5.565" OD 2.175" inlet and outlet are 5/16" (8mm). Alternatives are the Purolator F43178, WIX 33023, Fram G-7404, and Napa Gold 3023, Which all cross reference the more recent years of the Nissan Pathfinder: Height 4.803 OD 2.205 inlet and outlet are 5/16"(8mm) B. FUEL INJECTION LINE (optional but recommended) About 6' (2 Meters) 5/16" (8mm) High Quality Fuel injection line. You should have plenty left over. C. FUEL INJECTION HOSE CLAMPS (optional but recommended) Ask for ones that are less likely to damage the hose. D. or But seriously DO NOT SMOKE while taking off fuel lines. 2.REMOVE THE FUEL TANK Do yourself a favor and run the tank close to empty before trying to lift the tank off. Also, wear eye protection to protect from splashing gasoline as the hoses are removed. There may still be pressurized fuel in the hoses. A. Remove Seat B. Remove Bolt holding down tank. C. Put a full closed beer can between tank and frame to hold the tank in a position that will allow better access to the hose clamps. D. Disconnect two lines on the right side of the bike. Look for the hose clamps. One line is a vent line and the other goes from the pressure regulator to the right fuel injector. Some may have removed the vent line. (NOT recommended) There may also be a second smaller vent line that will pop off on it own. E. Disconnect the fuel line going from the petcock to the fuel pump, the wire connector for the wires going to the petcock (if you have the electric type), and the wire connector for the wires going to the fuel level warning sensor. F. Remove Beer Can and take a break. G. Remove the tank. Nothing should have to be forced. Lift the rear a few inches, grab the front and carry the tank an inch or two to the rear and then lift the front of the tank up and bring the tank forward and up and off. H. Set down where it will not get damaged. 3. REMOVE THE FUEL FILTER 4. REPLACE THE FUEL LINES AND HOSE CLAMPS(optional but recommended) A. The line going from the pump to the filter is the most critical as it endures the highest pressures. The other lines are less accessible and require removing the airbox. B. Remove the airbox. It is held by one screw on the top, two down low towards the rear, and it must be disconnected from the throttle bodies. Reinstall the airbox, connect the throttle bodies first, rear screws, and finally the top screw. C. routing of the hoses is critical. 5. INSTALL THE NEW FILTER Be sure to get the arrow pointed in the correct direction of flow, from the fuel pump, through the filter, and to the fuel injectors. 6. Put the tank back on, lower rear first, but not all the way, than lower front onto rubber mounts, then lower rear all the way and make sure nothing got crushed. Raise the rear of tank enough to get access to the hoses. If you are out of beer, space it with an empty can of carb spray or whatever. 7. Re-connect two wire connectors on left and the fuel line from the petcock to the pump. 8. Reconnect two lines on right. Be sure to put the vent lines together and the high pressure lines together. The high pressure line on the right runs from the right fuel injector to the pressure control valve on the right side of the tank. 9. Double check that fuel lines are tight and then start up the engine and look for leaks. You may want to prime the pump by turning the key on and off maybe three times before pressing the starter. Holding the starter down for too long is a bad idea. give the starter a few seconds between each start attempt. Check for leaks, go for a short ride, check for leaks. 10.

Because it started pinging after putting in the FBF open lid kit, I would have to say that re-mapping be it with ultimap or PCIII, is a necessity. If you only got the BMC filter and did not open the airbox, there would probably not be a problem. According to Todd at Guzzitech, the K&N in the stock airbox and the stock filter require the same map. From what I understand, if you cut holes in the airbox lid or get the FBF kit, the bike runs leaner. My bike is still rideable, but I have to be conservative with the throttle in the mid range rpms. Next weekend, I will enrich the mid range, by buttons or map.

I have heard the Sachs do not last long, so it may not be worth pouring money into them. However, I find the damping works well enough, so perhaps, they just need a re-spring.

Hey Mike, Did you install the Penske, yet? Looking forward to your review. I am trying to decide between Works, Penske, and Ohlins. My wallet says Works. My heart says Ohlins. My brain says Peske.

Got the air filter in today. A little more kick of accelleration. A little pinging at about 4000-5500 rpm. Still running Zero map. I suspect the HP peak will be over 8000RPM. Here is a shot showing how the color is starting to match. You can still tell the Quat-D is a sand blasted finish while the pipes are brushed. It would be a good idea to make a rear fender extender to keep the crud off the muffler.

Here is another possibility, could you have put the filter on backwards? The arrow on it should point towards the line leading to the fuel injectors.....

I had to replace the hoses anyway, so I did not measure. I can't even remember if the filter was all the forward or all the way back in the clamp. I think I could have used the original hosing, but am not sure. The hose from the filter to the pump is easy to replace. the other hoses require removing the airbox. Not too big a deal...

1. Perhaps you pinched a line. The line going from the tank to the pump if bent too much could restrict flow. The line going from the pump to the filter could possibly get pinched under the tank. 2. air cavitation, not sure what to do about that. I suspect it will work its way out, but you do not want to burn a valve....Perhaps fill up a full tank and run it up to the speed where it runs fine for a few miles. I am on the third day of changing my filter. Maybe I will experience the same problem... Perhaps the filters need priming. Because the filter and pump are horizontal I suspect they will cavitate, but eventually the pump should pump the air out, I guess....

How about a soldered splice job into into one heavy duty line? Might be a pain if you ever have to remove anything, so scratch that idea. How about bolting all the lines together and encapsulating the bolt in plexiglass. Or how about something like this circuit breaker. Still kind of bulky, but it has more than one purpose. You might still need to run a seperate line to the starter.

For those trashing the airbox, a benefit may be the opening up of a spot on top of the spine, just behind the fuel filter.

JRT, you definitately uncovered some sausage porn. Evan Wilcox does great work. It was a blast to finally make it to Prescott to see some of the thrashers in living color. Did not meet Evan, but I think he was at the rally somewhere. Murray, I am really happy with my Quat-D muffler(ordered from Ghezzi and Brian). Do a search of Technical Topics for Ghezzi and you will find posts with more info. If you can wait a month or so, you may get to see dyno results of the muffler. The muffler is just a little louder than stock, but from the riders perspective it is satisfyingly louder because the sound is not blown behind the rider as much. The sound nicely drowns out the rattliness of the engine. I was concerned that it would feel too loud in the left ear, as I once had a 500four with a four into one kerker that deafened my right ear. This is not the case with this muffler.

I went to Pep Boys today, they probably had enough fittings to make the Napa 3008 work, but I had my mind set on getting one of the other filters. Perhaps the 3008 would be the way to go if you get ss or kevlar braided lines with banjo fittings. But since the fuel filter would be the only thing with the banjo fittings, it would probably be a wasted endeavour. I compared the three filters. The Mazda filter may not have fit as the bends went the wrong ways and it was $25. The Nissan filter would have been ok, but it was a little cheaper looking even though it cost $13.99. The Isuzu filter won hands down! Stout looking stainless steel. Just a little smaller than the Weber. The one I got was the F67221 by Purolator. Cost, $8.99 US Thanks again Docc! I tried to find the better hose clamps, but they were out of the ones for 5/16"id. Will try another Pep Boys tomorrow. Today, went a little better than yesterday. I only spilled gas on my jeans and not on my face. I tried to change the angle of the hose coming out of the tank so that it would angle away from the cylinder head, but ended up with it leaking...Will deal with that tomorrow. Noted that that hose has fake ss braiding....may deal with that tomorrow.... Stripped one of the hose clamp gears.....Will deal with that tomorrow. Atleast I got all the high pressure hose replaced and reduced the excess emission lines. Also, routed some of the lines better than how they were before. Noted that I lost one bolt holding on the airbox. Perhaps that is why FBF enclosed three extra allen head screws.... The banjo bolts with the oil breathers attached to the frame were loose enough to seep oil, so I tightened them. With the airbox temporarily out of the way, I was able to put a bit more preload on that piece of sh^t S@chs Shock absorber. It is not really that bad, but it is under sprung. With the preload set so that there was zero bike weight only sag, my added weight would make it sag more than an inch. So, I cranked it a few turns, and got it to under 3/4 total sag. Will see how it works. Also picked up a bike lift at Kragen Auto Parts for $59.00!!! +tax So, maybe I can replace the shock myself.

Yah, I guess that is why the V1100sporti owners don't complain about vapor lock, just other stuff. I am suprised that if the pump is on top that the fuel pump can self prime if the tank is low on fuel. It looks like what needs shielding the most is the line from the tank to the pump. I think mine rests against the left cylinder.

don't do what I did with my 2000, wear safety goggles.

Thanks Doc! My original Weber filter appeared to have failed after less than 18,000 miles. Following the logic of media area comparison, the Nissan filter could fail after less than 9000 miles. After my experiences trying to fit it yesterday, I was feeling like a certifiable DoDo Head! Here are the dimensions of the F67221 from Wix part 33310 which cross refs a 2000 Honda Passport and a 2000 Isuzu Rodeo and of course other years, makes and models. Height 5.565" OD 2.175" inlet and outlet are 5/16" which is equivalent to 8mm, according to hose markings... The Pathfinder is listed at: Height 4.803 OD 2.205 8mm I was thinking of trying this one that fits '93 Mazda 323SE. If it does not fit, I can put it on my mother''s car Wix33295 It's dimensions are: Height 6.732 OD 2.795 The inlet and outlet are bent which may be a plus or a minus. I will compare the three at the store and go from there...

could not source fitting for NAPA gold 3008. Will go with Nissan type filter. Should have listened to you guys.

"15 minutes!?!" I spent 6 hours today, failing to install a fuel filter! Here is a How To on how NOT to change the filter. 1PM grabbed NAPA 3008 that I had bought months ago, and air filter kit from FBF. Tank off tank, thank the gods I wear glasses, as the fuel splashes in my face. 1:30PM wash face. 1:45PM Air Filter installs in five minutes. 1:50PM determine that I will need some sort of fitting to mate the NAPA 3008 to the hoses. Also notice that filter appears to have failed, as evidenced by grey fuel on "clean" side of filter. (Moral: Do not run filter for 18000 miles) 2PM Go shopping and recycle 5 gallons of oil. 3PM Kragen has no fittings but I can browse all the possible Fram filters. The Pathfinder filter might work but it is alot smaller 3:45PM Car Quest is very helpful. They don't have the fittings, but they hook me up with a filter that is close to the original. However the fittings are a little bigger.(Do NOT try if fittings are wrong size!) I also pick up a couple feet of 5/16"(8mm) FI hose. 4:15PM Fish Tacos at Rosa's, YUM! 4:45PM Visit Auto Zone just to make sure they don't have the fittings for the NAPA 3008 They do not appear to and the counter help is toooo busy. 5:15PM pick up the mail for mother. 5:30PM Install the filter from Carquest with stock hose leading under air filter and replace hose going between filter and pump. (oh yah, my pump is low and my filter is high, perhaps that is why I have never had vapor lock) 6:00PM I t is all back together and I fire up the engine, the new air filter sounds great! And then sputter, swhosh, cut engine, and stand back and hope that it does not catch fire as the steam of fuel rises. 7PM Take air entire air filter assembly off so that I will be able to replace all of the hose, and pack it up for the night. Time to search the web for the appropriate filter....may go with pathfinder filter or Napa Gold FIL3023. Got to remove 3008 from my website.... Would like to source out higher quality hose and fittings. Any ideas?

Last week, I put the zero map on my PCIII and it runs a little better! Just got the FBF airbox kit today. Thanks FBF! It comes pre oiled and the aluminum bracket looks pretty stout. Also got their brake pads for the front. I will try to find time to install the air filter this weekend. If it is too loud than I will go with ram air. And then hit the dyno next month!!!!

Here is a cool product: http://www.webbikeworld.com/Reviewed-motor...ucts/posi-lock/ Looks like the next best thing to solder and shrink tubing! So would you need something like 20 of them and OE type connector. I would not know which wire to map where. Maybe it is not as difficult as I fear. Other concerns are the resistence values of the temperature sensors and most importantly the TPS and EPS. I guess

So has anyone tried drilling or cutting the shield for access yet?

The V11Sport and the V1100Sporti require different power commanders, so I suspect they are not interchangeable without knowing the wiring changes and possibly sensor resistances or voltage outputs..