dlaing

Apparently a modified air box produces better power than the stock airbox and a stock airbox produces better power than the pods. Kinda hard to believe as many people have had success with pods on older Guzzis. Perhaps the pods that tested poorly were too small or needed some sort of velocity stack. perhaps you could dyno it before and after airbox removal, but that gets expensive....

What do you guys think of this solution http://www.guzzitech.com/WorkStand-Jerry_R.html Jerry does not suggest putting the full weight of the bike on this cradle, but could it take the weight?

would it not make more sense for the crossover to cross rather than to do a loop back kinda thing? ie. An X rather than a U or H shape. It would mean more tubing, but common sense would suggest a better flow. Of course in the physics of engine design, common sense can be deceiving. example smaller valves can equal more power.

I voted that I am below 1000. The bike however idles roughly at about 900rpms. I have probably stalled with a hot engine at a red light about three times in the last 1000 miles or so. The bike would be better set at about 1000 rpm. The dealer initially had it set to about 1200rpms. I found at that speed it would clunk going from neutral to first. I set it to 1000 rpms and was running fine there. I put the new muffler on and the rpms dropped. I have been meaning to adjust it, but have been lazy. I also found as Mike Stewart suggested, that valve adjustment makes a difference to the idle speed. I also suspect that a larger gap produces a smoother power band with less of holes, but less peaks too. But, it is just a suspicion.

Patrick Roush posted the following on guzzitech.com What are the most critical bolts? Axel, brakes, handlebars, linkage. About any bolt loosening up or coming off could cause a panic or an accident. I have not lost any in a while, but new bike owners should be diligent about checking and if the bolt is problematic, locktite it! The factory and the predelivery inspection process could be better, but we don't want to see the factory using the strongest locktite so that they don't get sued. I nearly had my ignitiion assembly fall out which could have caused steering lock. If you start to notice excessive looseness of the assembly, check it out. I have lost screws to muffler cover and screws to side covers.

You have been working too hard you noodle head The cross section area is πr squared, so a little math indicates that the cross sectional area of the California headers is about 89% that of the V11 Sport. (42.5/2)*(42.5/2)*π _________________ = 89.xxxxxx (45/2)*(45/2)*π I think that's about right. Then again my last math test was a real bad flunk... How much more air can flow is another question.

True enough, but keep in mind that it is better to hit the foot of the kickstand rather than the kill switch actuator. I too like the idea of putting a self retracting spring on the kickstand.

You guessed right. High compression pistons, light porting, and bigger valves, oh, and of course a PCIII. I wonder what they did about the timing, considering the high compression pistons???? Not only does it have peak hp but a fat smooth torque curve, so I suspect the cross over is working ok at the least.

Not only is the road spray on the shock bad, the road spray on the transmission breather is alleged to actually increase the fluid level in the transmission!!!!!! A rubber dam is a good idea.

Also, Fast by Ferracci has one in development. They are getting 95hp out of a bike with the prototype crossover and other significant modifications. Is it better or worse than a Stucchi? The world may never know.

The manual also specifies Agip synthetic motorcycle oil which should more than double outlast conventional oils and the manual says to clean the sump out every 18.000 miles. If you use conventional oil, you should change the oil every 3000 miles or in my opinion every 2000 miles. Semi-synthetics are probably good for 3000 to 5000. Synthetics are probably good for 4000 to 10000 miles. But your filter should not be trusted to last 10000 miles. There are differences in quality amongst oils. I say go with synthetic motorcycle oil every 6000miles. I would use Agip, Amsoil, Maxima, Silkolene, Motul, or Moterex. Although other more mass produced brands may also be ok like, Castrol, Mobil, and Valvoline. Auto grade vs. Motorcycle grade is another issue. I am unsure, so I spend the extra money and get the motorcycle grade. I was using Maxima Semi synthetic every 3000 miles. After 18,000 miles I switched to Motul Synthetic. I was happy to find the oil pan had NO SLUDGE. I am going to check the Motul for clarity and viscosity and the smell of fuel using the ol' see, feel, and smell technique. I think it will last 6000 miles pretty easily. If not, I will change the schedule....or maybe try the Amsoil.

http://www.ema-usa.com/ click here... Good find Mike! Glad to know that someone matched up the Ohlins to the V11....but the Penske may be the better deal.

Thanks for the viscosity reply. As for the clutch, it is SUPPOSED to be dry. But if a seal goes bad you might get a wet and slipping clutch.

So are the SAE W/90, 80W/90, 75W/90 and 85W/140 all essentially interchangeable? I put mobil 1 75W/90 in the gear box and it shifts smoother than ever. I have not missed a shift since switching to it from whatever synthetic the dealer put in. But, I may be getting that slipping clutch symtom.... Perhaps I should switch to something of a higher viscosity??????

What about other measurements? By lowering the clamps on the forks the center of gravity drops. Is the Le Mans lower? What do you call the distance in the triple clamps that the forks are off set from the steering axis? Is this the same on the Le Mans? I thought more trail gives a bike stability. And that all other things being equal more rake equals more trail. Does the Le Mans have less trail????? Perhaps the instable feeling in the turns is really too much effort being required to make it turn. When I increased the preload on my Sachs(raising the rear) and lowered the triples on the forks(lowering the rear), my bike became more stable. I measured photographs of the Rosso and 2000 V11S and found the same measurements as Mike's. (sorry Mike, I was having trouble believing that less rake is more stable) So is Less More???? I am soooo confused.... $1000/degree!?!?!?! There has to be a better way to spend money! How about less pre load in the forks and lowering the front end more. Shorter springs??? 16 inch wheel? 120/60-17 front tire? Wider handle bars? Does anyone know where I can get a fork brace to fit our bikes? I have seen pictures of one fitted. A fork brace would counter the asymetrical damping and reduce axle flex. There must be some reason they went to a thicker axle... Sorry, enough rambling....

I think those of us with the 2000 models would like to make the bike a littler more stable. Guzzi "fixed" it in 2001. There are probably better ways to fix it like not using Pirellis or Metzelers on the front, or a Contiforce on the rear. All good tires, but twitchy. Maybe a fork brace, or a frame brace as shown on the Japanese Jinguzzi (sp?) website. Or just properly set up suspension. Personally I find that the quick steering is fun, but I get nervous and frequently over react. I just put a Metzeler on today, and it steers just as quickly as the Pirelli did. I should have listened to Mike Stewart's comments on the Metzeler Sportec M1. I think a Michelin on the front may be the answer... Or buy a Rosso Corsa...

Less rake should result in less trail, so if Mike's is 26.5 degrees it should have more trail than a bike with a 25 degree rake, assuming all other things being equal... Guzzi specs are often wrong. I have heard different stories about how this effects handling. I believe the V1100Sport has more rake, a slightly longer wheel base, and is more stable but less nimble than the V11Sport.

Hey Martin, I am loving the muffler. I suppose I would also love a pair of Mistrals. At the Prescott Rally it got a fair amount of attention. Most people liked the sound. A few were silent, so they may have thought it odd, and one person said it sounded tinny. But I disagree. You would definately need a power commander to get the Quat-D muffler working properly. My fuel consumption is now about 2MPG (US) worse and the plugs are a bit darker. The bike pops a bit on deceleration and at light throttle loads especially at lower rpms it sputters. So I suspect it is both too rich and too lean at different map positions. I trust that a new map will fix it. I suspect the power will be pretty close to stock with just the hole filled in. It does seem to take a little longer to get up to an indicated 120MPH, so it may be lacking a little power at about 6-7000rpm. But my air filter is 17 months old.... I plan on getting an open airbox lid and dyno tuning. I will keep you posted.

I do not know of an aftermarket headlight duo, but Ghezzi and Brian Furia, Triumph speed triple, Buell, and Ducati 999 all have some nice offerings.

Thanks for the reply. $900 is a great deal for mufflers and ECU. I guess it kinda shows the markup on the stock ECU.... As far as remapping the stock ECU, I believe the only ways are Ultimap and PCIII. From what I understood the dealer software can only tweak the overall or idle mixture.

Hey all you Playboys, What is this CDI computer module? Is it an ignition booster, a remapper or something else? In any case those mufflers are nice looking!

CAREFULLY try lubricating your stock floaters so that they actually float My dealer lubed mine with chain wax and they were much better for a while. Then I lubed them with silicone, and they have been fine ever since. WARNING The lube will spin out to the braking surface, possibly causing a lack of braking power. So, after lubing carefully clean rotors with brake cleaner. Take it for a careful spin and then clean the rotors again. I posted this solution before and nobody said it worked or not, so it would be good to know if it works for you too. Feel free to say, "No way am I going to lube my brakes!" It is important not to lose your braking power!!!!

Better safe than sorry! But fear not. Just firmly turn the weight counter clockwise with a Hex Key. It has normal threading. ie. clockwise tightens, counter clockwise loosens. If you got a Napoleon Mirror, it goes in sort of easily. You might lube it with rubbing alcohol which allows it to slide in, but not slide about once set. Yah, it dries out the rubber a little, but one time, won't kill it. Not sure about competing mirrors. The hind sight do really well if you machine your bar end weight to fit the hind sight clamp.

Way to go Mike! I hope you will be taking the bike to Prescott this weekend! If you did get the catalyst version, I suppose the benefit other than cleaner air for those riding in your tracks, is that the O2 sensor provides a closed loop which THEORETICALLY eliminates the need for a power commander. Unfortunately the O2 sensors can cause the symptoms that Rudi described on the BMW. It all depends on how well engineered the ECU loopback is, and possibly how well the map matches the bike without the loopback. Meaning if you add slip ons the loopback system may or may not be able to fully compensate for your aftermarket mufflers.

Doc, I think the Mistral Mufflers weigh about 10 pounds less (each) than stock mufflers. The stock crossover is very light. I suspect the Stucchi and Mistral crossovers arre within two pounds of the stock crossover. Some have said that that the Stucchi is less prone to weld failures than the Mistral.