dlaing

and like loud pipes saving lives, bright headlights do too! Are you sure about those prices? The Headlamp consists of a glass face, a mirrored reflector, a shroud or whatever you call it, a bulb, some spring clips, a chrome bezel, and a black metal shell that connects to the headlight brackets. I imagine it might be $250 for the entire lamp assembly but NOT for just the glass face, mirrored reflector, and shroud unit. That SHOULD be about $20-$50. Perhaps check out your nearest BMW motorcycle dealer, and bring the part in that you need.

It may be a good preventative measure to seal off the rear fender to protect your shock and its seal. The less road grime in there the better. I like to occasionally coat my bikes forks and shock shaft with silicone. It reduces friction and may improve seal life. My only concern is that it won't mix well with the shock oil. But it is such a minute quantity and it may help keep moisture out. Good luck with the modifications, Mike. Lex's experience is inspiring.

The Coils are on the same relay as the fuel pump and injectors. You might get a little more juice if you give the coils their own dedicated 10 gauge line and relay. But then again it is one more relay to possibly fail. I have no idea how many amps are being drawn through that relay, but if the aftermarket coils increases it significantly, than it is worth dedicating a seperate fuse, relay, and wire to the coils, or to the pump and injectors, whichever is easier...Relay $10, inline fuse $5, Wire $5, piece of mind.... priceless. But then again, if it does not blow a fuse, than it will probably be fine. You guys are going to have some awesome running engines!

I second what Rich said. If nobody on this list has a map for you, you might try contacting Ferracci USA I bet they could email a map to you. They have a link saying, maps will soon be downloadable. The link is at: http://www.ferracci.com/2002ferracci/tunin...rogramming.html You can contact them here: http://www.ferracci.com/2002ferracci/conta...ctus/index.html

Lex wrote

Maybe it breaking off is a feature! But seriously if the scratches are not too bad, you may get more light up the road. I am still waiting for my headlight bracket, so it will be a while before I can see the difference in the beam.

I might have been exagerating my concern... But seriously, I can be politically correct, and you would not catch me wearing a WhitePower tee-shirt. I sometimes buy vegetarian products with swastikas on the product or its label. The intent of the manufactor is not to be racist, so I don't have a problem using it. But, having a bar of soap with a swastika on it deserves giving my house guests an explanation. I don't know anything about the founders of White Power shock absorbers, or why they chose that name. If they are racists, I would buy other products and urge Moto Guzzi to deal with someone else. I tried looking up whether they had a racist agenda before I bought my bike, saw no information, so I went ahead and bought the bike. As it turned out, I got the Sachs anyway. (or so I believe) I think Sachs has a good product, but the parts availability is a concern. When it blows, I'll get something else. Probably Ohlins, Penske, Bitubo, or Works. Depends on the information that I get from this great discussion board! In the mean time, I am trying to get under 200lbs so that the spring can work and my girl friend can stop complaining I already lowered my Cholesterol (for her...and for me). Its the cutting down on beer that I don't like.

How does the reflector bust off? I thought it was glued to the "lens" or clear glass face, and then held in place with spring clips against the chrome bezel. The Spring clips alone should keep it together. When my bike went down it broke off the low beam guard thing-a-mah-jig inside of the reflector. I used pliars to mash the guard up until it was small enough to get through the bulb socket. It took about a half hour to mash it. I still have yet to test it for how blinding it is.

I was bummed to learn that I got a Sachs Shock. The Guzzi Web Site said, "WHITEPOWER". But I did not complain, cause I did not like the name WhitePower because of the racist implications, and I figured the shock would be fine. I figure, get 50,000 miles out of it, and then buy a better shock. Or find someone who has set up a shock for our bike and use their mods. Works would be a great way to go if someone in Southern California could be the guinea pig. They will however make a shock to your custom measurements and demands. http://www.worksperformance.com/Other%20Pa...line_order.html I don't know if I would trust my own measurements, as the geometry is very critical to spring load demands. I would only go with the bitubo if your suspension specialist was familiar with it and could get parts. Although, http://www.eurobiketeam.com might be able to customize a bitubo for you, they probably could not help you with the front forks. The front should match the rear, so I feel you should get them done by the same specialist. You might try Computrack at Honda of Milipitas.

Don't worry Carl, just count again. 1 lost bag 2 lost BMW cold weather gear 3 lost clutch You should be safe for a while My sympathies to you.

Jason, did you need new hydraulic lines or wires? Or did you just have to re-route the lines? My biggest concern is the clutch line. Looks great! I hope to get my Centauro bars on soon, and will have to post a picture.

Mark from Moto Guzzi Classics was posting on the mgnoc-sw list a while ago that he sold the BMW reflectors for something around $25. He could certainly tell you if it fits better than a Beemer shop could. http://www.motoguzziclassics.com/ by email Guzzi.Renew@verizon.net

I use Meguiar's Quick Detailer Mist and Wipe on the tank, front fender, tail cowling and side panels. Lots of rags help. I only use water to get mud off the fenders and alternator cover. I avoid detergents because I don't want them to wash into the garden and kill the plants. I am too lazy to clean the wheels. I occasionally clean them just before a tire change so that my mechanic is happy. Or just clean the rim edge. Once I get the G&B muffler, I will have to keep the rear wheel cleaner. When the bike was brand new, 26 months ago, I waxed it with PolyGlycoat 4year two step wax. It beaded water pretty well for about six months. It still appears to have some sheating action, but definately needs a reapplication, but I have so many little scratches that it may be better not to wax it so that if and when I paint it in a few years, it will adhere better. I could take a lot better care of the outside of the bike, but the weeping oil and wheel grime are sooo tenacious. I better clean it this weekend!

Yes, Bravo for mio! However, they do not have them in stock. I hope I don't have to wait too long. I imagine the muffler will look great when new, but whatever type of metal that is, looks like it will turn color. hhmmmm....how about Red Ceramic Coating! nah, I am too conservative. If it discolors I may do it in Black, Grey, or Silver. Does anyone out there have a Power Commander Map for this Muffler? I'll dyno tune it, but It is good to get it close... Yeeehoooo!

Here is the information that I got about the Ghezzi and Brian muffler. I think it is a fair price considering that it essentially replaces over $1000 worth of parts. This muffler should increase cornering clearance, be crash resistant, greatly increase luggage room, eliminate passenger leg burns, allow for extended passenger pegs, save weight, AND be the trickest product to POSE with!!!! I know we are not poseurs, but it is still pretty cool! I just wrote my check and now only have to go to work and print this out and put it in the mail. Thanks Paul M. for refering me to Arnold, and thanks Arnold for the quick response! Begin forwarded message: From: Arnold Barnhart Date: Mon Feb 24, 2003 3:49:31 AM US/Pacific To: Dlaing Subject: Re: Muffler for V11S Reply-To: ratdog@airmail.net Dear David, The muffler for the v-11 is 800 dollars plus shipping to your door. The muffler is louder than the stock units but not excessively. I do not have any charts on the hp and torque curves, but according to customers that have already bought it, there is a definite increase. They tell me that it pulls better from the bottom and that the typical flat spot at 4 grand is much smoother. You may have to re-work your mapping after installation, since I have no idea if your bike is stock or has modifications. If you are interested in the muffler, send a check for 800 dollars to Geographic Services, Inc 500 Windmere Circle Corinth, TX 76210 214-727-0148 cell number The muffler will be sent to you COD as per your instructions Thanks Arnold Barnhart Territory Manager Ghezzi Brian Motorcycles ww.ghezzibrianracing.com

From what I understand, the main benefit is less torque reaction, resulting in less jacking while accellerating and decellerating. On a shaft drive it can mean less wear on the shaft....if they get the geometry right... I wonder how the V11 six speed's shaft and swingarm compare with the earlier Sports and Daytonas.

Well, I sent Arnold Barnhart, ratdog@airmail.net an email. Asking for Price, Power, and Noise information. This is going to knock some serious weight off my bike! Or, allow room for the biggest saddle bags you ever saw

I never got a reply via there web email. Perhaps, they could not read english. Maybe I'll try emailing their US dealers....

Great Idea! So do you also have to make the drive shaft 13cm longer? I would love to move the rotating point as far forward as possible and then move the rear wheel back a few centimeters to move more weight over the front wheel. Yes, it would not handle as quickly but the trade off in weight balance would offset that value, and the added length would make it a better touring bike. Heck, I'd even give up the paralever effect to make a longer swing arm. Perhaps a Quota swing arm would be just right. I am pretty sure your goal is to make it a better sport bike, so your modifications make sense. I hope you get it done in time!

check out the dyno testing here. http://manleycycle.com/Tech.htm#MotoGuzzi most will want the Stucchi, however those interested only in low and mid range power may prefer the Mistral. The dyno tests may not be conclusive because the bikes used are different, but they do give an idea.

For those looking for the Motorbike Diagnostic Software Tool http://www.klsupply.com/Performance/mdst/ They have or had a Palm version of the software, for less money, but I don't see it there now. You can download their software for free, but to get the key and connective hardware( RS232 serial interface box), you need to shell out the cash. They also have a scantool, that does not appear to be as useful. Rumor has it the Feracci may also have something in the works....

Great looking setup! The speedometer only needs electricity for illumination, unlike the tachometer that is electronically driven the speedometer is cable driven. In addition to checking the Magni cable adapter, check the cable adapter on top of the transmission(right side) It is known to come loose and or break apart. You might also note, after the weather clears, if the odometer is working.

Some dealer mechanics might need some training. They have the software, so they don't even have to back probe for TPS voltage. It is a bit of a pain to set the TPS to 150mV with linkage disconnected and set screws backed out. But, the results might cure many of our woes. PowerCommander owners should have the bike tuned to strict tuning tolerances before getting a customized map made. Otherwise when it starts to act up, they might not know what to set the TPS and valves to. Then again, maybe the dealers are tuning to spec and the manufacturing tolerances are so off that stock specs won't cut it for all bikes.

Great research! What does "umbau" mean? Three of the links under that category are two brothers bars. Jason Telford if you are reading this, where did you source the bar clamps? I should have a Centauro bar installation shot in a few weeks, to add to the FAQ. (If the new hydraulic lines get here soon)

Thanks Carl, So unless I hear that one is better than the other, I will add the pathfinder filter to the list on my page. Is it easy to find a Y fitting? Perhaps at a BMW motorcycle dealer? Are cheap plastic ones up to the task?