dlaing

Well bite my tongue! I just heard of a second case where a bike ran worse after a tuning link job. See the www.wildguzzi.com discussion titled In defense of Jim.....

I would email them. email links are here: http://www.powercommander.com/contemail.shtml And let us know what you find out. I suspect it is no problem.

Hi John, I too am a little distrusting of operator error. I live close to the guy who sold Rich his power commander, Todd Eagan, so I would like him to be the operator. But he doesn't have a shop yet. He goes to Dynotec's HQ in vegas to create unique maps. The tuning link is supposed to greatly reduce the chance of operator error. But I have heard of one case of the bike running worse, probably because to O2 sensor was not inserted properly. If the results are worse, I can always revert to my current map. But I would try to figure out why the tuning link produced worse results. I have seen map modifications at places in the map that can only be reached by lugging the engine, like 100% throttle at 2500rpms. Absurd, and bad for the engine!!! Can you do a better job than the tuning link? I don't think so. Maybe if your are really good and take alot of time. But after it is tuning linked you can improve the map, depending on your definition of improved. The tuning link should give you a map to center around. To maximize power, efficiency, or throttle response you can tweak the map slightly. Todd Eagan often will add tweaks to the map. For example if people need racer throttle response he may richen it at specific closed throttle points that may slightly increase fuel consumption and emmisions. My battle with creating a better map has been a lot of fun. I should have documented the changes I made. Some of it has been very perplexing. I marked my throttle grip so that I can estimate throttle position. Starting with the 001 map I initially had to run the buttons richer. When I finally got a PC to run the software, I zeroed the buttons and started out by enrichening it about 3 numbers in places that seemed to run too lean. As evidenced by pinging or rough riding. To confirm that it needed enrichening I would tweak the buttons richer until it ran smoothly. Or lean the buttons to see where it ran rougher or pinged. Then go to the computer, make the changes to the map. I then leaned out the map where it did not sputter, where I suspected it was consuming too much gas. An interesting thing happened after I got it running leaner. After a few weaks of riding it seemed to be less prone to pinging. I suspect because of less carbon build up. I am on about my third map. All of my changes have been subtle. Almost all the map changes are within the range of the 001 and 000 maps. If they are outside, I don't think I varied by more than two numbers. I would like to get the K&N oxygen sensor to keep me in a safe range. It would also be nice to know exactly where you are on the map when riding. I kind of like the do it yourself approach because it is fun. But there is nothing like a dynometer and gauges to monitor power, temperature and emissions.

Hi Janusz, There is a difference between a map that was designed for your model bike and a map that created specifically using the tuning link technology with your bike on a dynometer. How much the difference is depends on manufacturing variables and the state of tune of the bike. No two bikes will all be set to the same EXACT settings. People on various lists have reported great changes in performance going from the map that matched their bike to a custom map created using their bike. I have a stock US bike. I have taken the 001 map and modified it to make it better. It works great, but I am sure it could work even better if I can have it customized on a tuning link enabled dynometer. Do I have to do it? No. Why have I not done it yet? Because it is expensive and I still have not determined which exhaust mods to go with.( The Ghezzi and Brian crossover/muffler looks cool) As for the bike wanting a different map when switching to a Stucchi, I use the word want rather than need as, you are correct that it does not need a new map. I could be wrong and there may be no difference in the OPTIMUM map, but I doubt it. Apparently there is no significant difference in optimized maps between a K&N flat filter and the stock flat filter. So it is quite possible that I am wrong about the crossover. I still think the PCIII is the most important performance enhancer you can buy for you bike and optimizing it on a dynometer is next most important enhancement. From what I understand the Stucchi will provide improved mid range power for just a couple hundred dollars, another wise investment. Aftermarket mufflers seem to add 5 to 10 HP, but they are expensive. The airbox mod is practically free power. Porting is expensive but balances the cylinder's flow and adds a bit more power. All are good investments, but the PCIII allows you to adapt better to every change along the way.

Yah, my v65 rubbers use to start cracking after a few months. I used to reinforce them with silicone sealant and some cloth laminated on top. It would peel off, but would slow down the ozone damage and keep the hose clamps from digging into the rubber. I was thinking of laminating with Neoprene cement and fiberglass. But if they are vinyl, than a different adhesive may work better. If they were built just a little better, it would be a non-issue.

My 2000 v11s came with a toolkit. It contained a BiTubo shock adjuster. I don't think everyone got one of those. It also contained CHEAP hex keys, a screw driver, cheap pliars, and a spark plug wrench. It was in the wasp tail, accessed by lifting the seat. Even if the dealer gives you a tool kit, there are a few items you might add. Upgrade your hex keys, add a vice grip and adjustable wrench, zip ties, tail light bulb, electrical tape, spare bolts( 5 and 6mm), and maybe some other things that I can't think of now...cell phone, beacon, fire extinguisher, 38 Special, etc.

I would suspect your throttle balance is off. I have been suspicious for a while that the stock crossover throws off the throttle balance. Putting the stucchi on may have corrected the natural balance of the cylinder flow which was incorrectly balanced at the throttle bodies. All hypothetical... but one pipe getting hotter than the other may imply an imbalance. Another possibility is that your drilling lodged some debree, blocking one of the mufflers, pretty unlikely unless you drilled it enough for large chuncks to fall off. The Stucchi will definately want a different map, either by ultimap or PCIII, and then your bike should run better than ever!

80 MPH is fast enough, but you have to be popping a wheelie to insure the water can't get in the vent.

Regarding the pingiing problem: I cured my problem by slightly enriching the 001 map in the zone that pinged, but since then by going leaner to improve fuel consumption I am now at a point that was leaner than when I was pinging, and I am now getting no pinging. The reason for this is that either I am reducing the pinging by reducing carbon build up or something is inconsistent like the TPS, one of the sensors, OR the Fuel Pressure. So the idea that a lack of fuel pressure is causing the pinging on many bikes is a possiblity. Can you use and read the Evoluzione pressure meter while driving? It would be interesting to monitor the fuel pressure, especially if the pinging is intermittant(spelling?) It would be really cool if you could dial up the pressure on the fly(while riding or quickly while pulled over.

from Topica in January,I guess they were discussing a problem. From: Carl Allison clip So... Has anyone with a spine frame or late model EFI bike put on higher output/better coils? If so, what were the results? clip Wayne O. replied: clip As for changing the coils, anything with a lower resistance risks toasting the ECU. Anything higher probably wouldn't have the same output. And since there are two coils, the dwell angle SHOULD be huge for a powerful output as is (but then the programmer controls that). And there is plenty of spark when cranking the motor over so I can't see it being the spark. So, it appears that trying to UPGRADE would be a waste of money, so I guess if one needs to replace, it is best to use OEM. Too bad, it is fun to think you are getting 30,000 rather than 20,000 Volts if you buy aftermarket coils. I guess twin plugging is the only way to really boost ignition performance.... Opinions?

The only con I see from increasing the pressure is you might run too rich. But if you re-map the mixture and have mods that require more fuel, than I can only think good things about tweaking fuel pressure. Jason Tucker(oops, I mean Emry. edited 12/23) running at +10 psi results in 52 psi or an increase of about 24%. If you convert 24% into air/fuel ratio that is a difference of maybe 14:1 changed to maybe 10-11:1 which is probably too rich. But if he was off the charts before at maybe 18:1, he would now be in the healthy 13/14:1 ratio. Of course it is unlikely that his map is flat, so he is probably too rich in some places while good in others. Proper tuning and re-mapping is the way to go.

What are the available options for ignition boosters and coils? My manual says the coils are Inductive, but Moto Guzzi's web site says the ignition is CDI. Is CDI only for newer bikes? What gives? And what is the primary resistance of the coils? 3 or 5 ohms? thx in advance

I used to get a pulse that appeared to be caused by warped rotors. I noticed the warp more at low speed. I lubed the floaters with silicone spray, cleaned the rotor surface, and the problem went away. The non- Brembo rotors are thinner than many others that are available, so they probably are also prone to warping. Atleast that is the case with my bike. The Rosso and later models apparently had improved rotors. Not sure about the 2001 models.

Check out the megaphones on Pasta Boy's SPORTi. http://groups.msn.com/TheMotoGuzziPeople/p...taboystoys.msnw and a nice website too, http://groups.msn.com/TheMotoGuzziPeople/

Steel wool can be a "seed" for rust. Avoid cleaning your bike with steel wool. I don't know if they will warrant the rust, but it is worth a complaint. Also I have heard if oxygen gets into the welds it can cause stainless steel to rust at the weld.

John, Love your piece on guzzitech, http://www.guzzitech.com/JTsRosso-John_T.html I have alot to learn about cams. From what I understand, the cam on our bikes is pretty radical for a production street bike. Looking at your dyno results, the HP is peaking between 7500 and 8300 rpms. Personally, I have no intention of ever changing my cams. I think you have a good plan go with the Stucchi crossover, but if you change cams, your peak power may become inaccessible and may require, not only the Carillo rods and stiffer springs, but other mods too. The Stucchi crossover will give you more mid grunt which will mean less shifting and faster riding. How about selling your flowed heads to me and getting the 1200cc kit from RaceCo? Also Fast by Feracci is supposed to have higher compression pistons that would probably work really well with the Carillo rods. Ok, so you need to get a new cam, here are some links: http://www.eurobiketeam.com/home.htm (in Italian, they have eproms and cams) http://www.msd.it/guzzi.htm (in Italian, they have eproms and cams) http://raceco.com/motoguzzi.html (cams and more) http://www.dynotec.de/ (pretty sure they have cams, in german) http://www.htmoto.de/motorrad.html (cams and more, in german) Best of luck, and let us know what you learn and show us your dyno results!

Squash Nose, you forgot that unlike England we Yanks can ride 6000 miles on a long Holiday weekend! Or more realistically, its cause my stinkin' landlord won't let me change my oil on the premises, so I have to pack my tools, ride off to my mother's and listen to her whine, "Don't make a mess of my driveway!" Carl, I guess I misunderstood you. But I think I got it now; either way you change the filter, (by 27mm hex tool or by drop of the pan) the gasket should last several (10+) oil changes. Okay, I'll take your word for it and reuse the pan gasket a few times.

I think Carl may have meant the opposite of how you read it, that if you use the tool, you do not need the gasket. In any case the pan gasket costs about $11 US. I just got one today from Sport Cycle Pacific. If you can afford them, use them. I try not to use gaskets more than twice. The more you use them, the tighter you have to tighten the bolts to get them to seal, and the harder they are to get off. Oil leaks are no fun. Rich gave good tips on preparing the gaskets. Another point is that you are "supposed" to clean the internal wire mesh filter everytime you change the regular filter, which requires dropping the pan. I think most of us agree that cleaning the wire mesh filter every 6000miles is overkill. I think a good strategy is to replace the filter every 6000 miles and to drop the pan every 12000 miles. But other strategies will work, too. I also like the idea of cleaning the bottom of the pan.

In fact Moto International(and probably Teo Lamers, too) has the center stand available for the V11Sport. So, it should also fit the Le Mans. The part number is different from the one for the Centauro, etc. The part number is 0143 0000 0012 The price is listed at $269 US. You might ask them about crossover compatibility, if you should ever consider aftermarket... You can click on the Teo Lamers link, advertised on this site, find your nearest dealer, and download their parts catalog and get contact info.

I wonder how California pipes would look. On the image I created the lines of the stock head pipe don't quite match the straight line of the muffler. I was trying to keep the muffler in line with the crossover, but that makes it too low. Anyway, the image is to assist the imagination and not be absolute. Perhaps a little upsweep is in order to clear the axle. However if you go low enough you can get in tighter and not upset cornering clearance....theoretically.

I think this would look very nice...Dunstall reverse cone replicas. Scale and mounting probably off due to lousy photoshop work... The important thing is that the taper should allow higher cornering clearance than stock, and room for larger (or lower) saddle bags, and also more leg room for passenger. In case you have not noticed, you are riding a "classic" motorcycle with a few fashionable performance changes like wider tires, mono shock, inverted forks, and fuel injection. Cans are for beans.

....and proud of it!

Ouch, 130/90 is Hot! Especially if you flash and hold the high while the low is on. I would definately run a dedicated line for that. I think all you need is two 15amp relays and some 10gauge wire/ But then again it could be fine for a few years...

Fishtails=bell bottom jeans Cans=baggy acid wash jeans or whatever that latest bleached out look is. Reverse Cone Megaphones=straight boot cut 501 Levi® jeans. Some things never go out of style. To the credit of cans, I think if the muffler is bigger you can suppress more sound and still keep the power optimized. It is hard to find reverse cone megs with 2inch inner diameter inlet and a rebuildable core.