dlaing

He sped up?

It is also a good example of why following too closely reduces reaction time.

Probably not valuable information, so feel free to ignore, but I just pulled my TPS and the throttle pulley and lubed each at the top with silicone grease. The low RPM popping is now gone, except for an occasional pop and stall at idle But was the cause of the better running the silicone grease, or the changing the TPS reading from ~145mV to ~110mV and rebalancing TBs? If the silicone grease helped it is probably only a temporary fix and the seals are what really need replacing. Thanks Docc and Jens for bringing forth this problem cause and solution!

Reading Jeff's HD TPS thread got me motivated to go back to the garage. I went to the hardware store and got a pair of M4 12mm bolts as he suggested. But I am also using split lock washers, so I think they are a little shorter than ideal. So IMHO I recommend going with M4 16mm or thereabouts. AAYMMV and maybe it is better to strip the threads than to break off the bolt in the TB. The 12mm does work, even with split washers, but next time I'll go with 16mm. There was less rust than what FotoGuzzi "Fotographed" on his bike, but none-the-less, I greased with silicone grease. What I don't like about the silicone grease is that it does dry out and may cause some resistance....oh well, it may also reduce air leakage????? (see Docc's recent thread about air leaks along the butterfly valve's shaft.) I also took the pulley off the left TB, blasted with carb cleaner and silicone greased it. Test ride time!

Keep in mind that graph is an oversimplification, and do note that the HD TPS will run leaner at throttle positions above a bit above the transition point. Read all of Jeff's notes. It is a lot to digest... You will probably want to do as Jeff suggests and ignore the 150mV TPS base setting and just find a good idle setting. He recommends 500-525mV, but I think he wrote that before the 2003+ models arrived.

http://www.guzzitech.com/HD-TPS-Jeff_B.html

Guzzi announced the Griso 8V Saturday: http://www.motoguzzi-us.com/servonline/new....asp?indice=264

Lazy typer! (I guess that makes me a lazy or lousy reader ) Yes, you want NO lateral play. It should be fine, especially since you got the C3 bearings. If the bearings have tighter tolerance you need to be more sure that under axle torque, the bearings are not over stressed. Once under torque, there should be no vertical movement of the spacer, but you won't see that, so to test, torque the axle, and turn the wheel, looking for no increased friction. If you do find increased friction, either the bearing is not seated properly, or the spacer is too short. Ideally the spacer should have been pulled, measured, and the space between bearings should have been measured. But measuring accurately can be tricky, and just torquing and testing for zero increased friction should be adequate.

Guilty as charged! That is exactly what I thought. Sorry about the confusion. What does LF mean? Indeed 6204 is the correct number for the rear wheel bearings, and I suppose since it is the rear wheel, the bearings need removal. The OEM bearing is 6204 2RS1 / C3 90 20 42 20 sealed bearing with dimensions of 20x47x14 NAPA part number is 6204-2RSJ But 6204number ending in /C3 allegedly would be the ideal tolerance, as Tom suggested, so getting through McMaster-Carr is probably the way to go. Please note, many bikes shipped with too short of a bearing spacer, resulting in premature bearing failure. You might want to make sure that a short bearing spacer is not the cause for your's failing.

the combination of a 6304 and 6205 appears on bikes with a solid axle (your bike). Bikes with a hollow axle have a pair of 6205 bearings. 6304 is 20 x 52 x 15 mm 92 20 52 27 which may cross ref 92 20 14 20 from older Guzzi. 6205 is 25 x 52 x 15 mm 92 20 18 21 I am pretty sure you do NOT need to remove a C-clip. Just drive the bearing out. But then again, maybe Luigi made are bikes differently... Have a great trip!

I'd start by replacing the plugs and balancing the throttle bodies. If that is not good enough, look at valve and tps settings. You may change the ignition without a power commander, with the stock ECU, using either Tuneboy or Direct Link. Tuneboy has the advantage of PCIII map importing. Directlink appears to be better in other ways, and less expensive last I compared. People say Axone can change the ignition, but I have not seen the documentation for that and it is expensive. Techlusion can modify the fueling in a very simple way and like the PCIII it can't modify the ignition timing. FIM Ultimap can modify the fueling, but I am not sure about the ignition.

IMHO most oils should work well if you add the right amount of ZDDP. But if you have a catalytic convertor the ZDDP could be a bad thing. Moly is good too, and is known to be less detrimental to catalytic convertors. Synthetics, especially the better ones, will last longer and perform better at temperature extremes.

something appears to be wrong with the link you posted.

Take a swing at this 100MPH fast ball: http://www.apple.com/iphone/features/maps.html "Find your location, get directions, and see traffic — all from your phone. Maps on iPhone 3G combines GPS, Wi-Fi, and cell tower location technology with the Multi-Touch interface to create the best mobile map application ever."

I believe that in most English speaking countries we call it a multimeter, not polymeter. Of course poly and multi mean essentially the same thing. Here is a definition of polymeter: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meter_(music)#Polymeter and multimeter: http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/multimeter By the way, nice photos!

I am 99% sure you can simply disconnect and reconnect the battery. It is not a problem for the ECU or the PCIII. The Techlusion only loses its settings if someone turns the screws, although I am sure a lightning bolt could mess up the settings Be sure to remember that when disconnecting battery, disconnect negative first and positive second. When reconnecting battery, connect positive first and negative second.

quote name='ratchethack' date='Jul 7 2008, 06:46 AM' post='147139'] Mmmmmmmmm. Yes. Yes, indeed. Coupla thoughts here. 1. Any gear lube properly matched to its application in a normally functioning transmission or bevel drive that significantly loses its properties in 7K miles of normal road use enough to be considered "worn out" (by any conceivable interpretation of this term) is NOT a quality product these days, let alone "the best thing out there". 2. Any reasonably sane consumer in their right mind would never consider using such a product twice, myself included. 3. Contrary to the apparent take of others on this in previous posts, a representative of Redline's Tech department could hardly be confused with someone trying to make more sales of their products by stating there is "no change interval" on Redline Shockproof Heavy in the V11 Guzzi trans and bevel drive applications -- unless of course said employee might be somehow incented to encourage consumers of their products specifically NOT to buy more of their products. 4. Dave in the Tech Department at Redline Corporate offices in Benicia, CA (the same guy who confirmed point #2 to me personally above twice over an interval of several years) is still there. I spoke with him again last week on an automotive limited slip differential gear lube application. I have little doubt that he would seriously question the "wearing out" of RLSH in 7K miles in a Guzzi trans or bevel drive, since he recommends "no change interval" in that application. Dave may be reached during business hours (PDT) toll free, (800) 624-7958. 5. Now am I one of those people who's inclinded to swallow everything a manufacturer's representative says verbatim? Not hardly. As a matter of personal policy ONLY, fully mindful of the above recommendation of the manufacturer (see posts years ago on same), I have always advocated for my own purposes ONLY, annual or semi-annual change-out of Guzzi trans and bevel drive gear lube according to the Keith Richards Annual Blood Transfusion Policy: "No tellin' wot's in 'ere, Guv'nah -- but 's bloody certain it ain't doin' me no good!" 6. Many people actually believe that their vehicles run better after service of any kind, whether they actually do or not. It's a remarkably widespread phenomenon. Some believe their cars actually run better after they're washed, after the brakes are bled, after the coolant is flushed, or after the interiors are vacuumed. Such is the power of suggestion. 7. Some people are so easily led, so subject to irrational inclinations, so inherently confused, and so unbound by logic and reason that they're utterly defenseless against all manner of suggestion and wishful thinking. It takes so little effort to spark off powerful delusions in some people that many seem to generate their own whoppers on a regular basis, quite spontaneously. And waddayagonna do?. . .[sigh]. . . Yes. It would seem so. Yes, indeed. . . /quote] 1) You would think so, but I have not found anything better. The lube has many functions. It could very well be protecting against gear to gear damage at 7000+ miles, but the build up in water contamination could be causing increases in drag on mechanisms that might not wear out, but could cause shifts to be blown. This may be more of a design problem with the Guzzi gear box than an indication of the Shock Proof having a shorter life than competing products....despite what the Mazda forum guy said about it being good for only 3 weeks. 2) Yah, that is why I will give something else a try next time. But I still think the Shockproof is going to be tough to beat. 3) But somehow he convinced you to buy more of it. Mind Voodoo???? Master in BS???? 4) Maybe I'll give him a call??? 5)So, you believe the guy, but you still change it out every six to twelve months??? You must have more reason to do it than an analogy to a drugged out rock star. Do you use leeches, too? Where is the logic Ratchet? Why do you change the gear oil? 6) I agree, but that is not the case here. This was a dramatic change. More dramatic of a change then when I switched from some synthetic with Moly to ShockProof Light, and more than the subsequent change to Heavy. I was blowing maybe five to ten shifts on a 100 mile ride. Yesterday I went 250 miles and blew one upshift at about 7000 RPM and WOT. Other than that it shifted flawlessly. 7)are you describing yourself again?

Thanks Slug! that is useful info!!! I was considering making new wedges of urethane, but I would have to find a urethane softer than 70A. I am sure it exists, but it would have been easier to find an 80A urethane.

I changed the ShockProof gear and rear gear oil last night, and went for a 250 mile ride today. ONCE AGAIN, THE BIKE SHIFTS GREAT!!!! A dramatic difference in shifting!!! Clearly the 7000 mile, 14 month old, Redline ShockProof Heavy, was too worn out. Of course I am only one jury member, and we need more people to convict! I still think the RedLine Shock Proof is likely the best thing out there, but the durability is questionable, and the stuff is not cheap. Next time I may try Bob the Oil Guy's advice and go with the Schaeffer's and some Moly http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/gearoiltest.htm

That is debatable. Hawker recommends that external chargers not put out more than 15V, and that is just for forcing it to 100% charged. Hours on the freeway in Summer heat at 15V could cook the battery. Hawker says, " If the voltage output from the charger is less than 14.2V or more than 15V for a 12V battery do not use the charger." Guzzi specs the regulator to regulate between 14.0 and 14.6V I would look for improvement by cleaning connections and rotating relays (assuming all are 5 pin). If no improvement, I would replace the regulator. Would a faulty ground let the voltage run too high? Someone said the regulator determines voltage between the lighting line and ground, so look in both those places for bad connections. For example if the starter or lighting relay cause a drop in voltage, the regulator may think the voltage is low, and let more juice flow. Check the voltage at the 15A lighting fuse. If low that is your culprit. But I am not sure what low is. Some voltage drop is normal. Maybe 1 volt less than at the battery would raise a red flag. If I get around to it, I could tell you my difference on my bike, assuming it is correct. Oh, and check that alternator AC output is within spec.

Do the Marzocchi have spring loaded valves to relieve high speed compression damping, like Race Tech Cartridge Emulators, Ohlins, etc.?

It says he "took the record", but I think that may still be talk of when he UnOfficially beat the record. Sorry, I don't know if he broke the record June 22nd. In any case, I think we can all be optimistic that records will be broken at the end of Summer at Bonneville!!!

Thanks! That makes perfect sense! (and may explain why my readings go off so fast )

teamsubtlecrowbar at pitpilot.com

Now he has a record!!! Photos here: http://forum.guzzitech.com/index.php?optio...83&catid=36 But no details yet...