dlaing

I suspect mine is getting louder too. Is there fiberglass in the stock muffler core burning away???? vibration seems to be less and less, too. I had been running .15/.20mm for a while. Just tried .10/.15mm not sure if I like it as much. I had to bump up the idle, there is a more pronouned hole just above 4000rpm, but it seems to have more power over 5000 rpm. I will try it for a while and see if gas mileage improves or worsens. The first tank was a strong 34 MPG for mostly short cold runs. I was expecting 32 to 33 mpg. But one tank is not enough to judge by.

I went loosely by the book, breaking it in slowly, I kept the revs up fairily high, while keeping the throttle light. Varying the speeds as much as possible. 5000RPM max till first oil change at 690 mile, 6000RPM max till second oil change at about 3000miles, 7000RPM max till third at 5240, At that point I considered it broken in, but the engine is feeling better and better as it slowly breaks in. I am now at 17000 miles. The fuel mileage has been pretty consistent with variations mosty due to powercommander changes. I am getting about 33 mpg on 15 mile commutes. Country roads I am getting about 34 mpg. readings are plus or minus 2 mpg. The odometer is probably fast, so my actual mpg is probably even worse. I ran out of gas once, but was too pissed off to notice the odometer reading nor how much fuel it took. I seem to remember passing the gas station that was out of gas at about 185 miles, (not at all sure). I ran out about 3 miles further down the road. I have not gotten passed 160 miles without a refill since that day. I usually fill with the bike on the side stand, and I fill it up to the bottom of the orifice. There is room for more gas to the top of the rim, but most pumps are too fast to do it cleanly. 40 MPG should allow an easy 200+ mile cruising range. I hate riding with people who get 50MPG

Do you think it is feasible to turn the choke into a cruise control? Right now, the maximum speed on my choke/cruise control is about 10MPH

Maybe we just all need to move to British Columbia! Cool humid air. Better gas??? What is your setup Janusz? Valve clearance, PCIII, mufflers, etc.? Did your mechanic say he enriched it or anything? My bike has been pretty problem free. Without the power commander, I would be getting popping and hiccups at low rpms and throttle positions. Aside from the PCIII and fairing, my bike is all stock. ~17000miles

Best of luck fixing the problem. Now is a great time to ride. Here are a few fairly obvious diagnostic questions: Have you noticed if the fuel pump goes on when the problem occurs? ie. turn the ignition on and you hear relays clicking and the fuel pump start up. Have you tried pulling a spark plug and checking for spark? (note that with electronic ignitions you should be sure to ground the spark plug or you may toast your ECU when the ignition is on.) Played with the kickstand to see if maybe it is shorting. If it is shorting the engine should die quickly, rather than sputter like a fuel mixture problem. Played with the kill switch by the throttle to see if it is shorting. If either of those are shorting, the fuel pump should stop too. You probably can't hear the fuel pump stop, but you should hear it start if try to start again. Put in new spark plugs. Perhaps you should order the manual petcock asap. I know it should be warranted if it is the problem. But it may be more important to be gone with the problem now.

I believe the poll refers to the "vapor lock" type symptoms that people have had. Carl's situation qualifies as a "NO", but the solution for both stalling problems may be the same????? I believe the problem could also be described as, Synopsis of problem: You stop and shut down your bike after riding for a while with no apparent problems. After sitting for about 20 minutes (give or take), you TRY TO start the bike again, only to have it stall within about 5 to 10 seconds OR NOT START AT ALL. Generally if you stall when you are hot it is because your idle is too rich. Shuttiing down when you are hot and waiting 20 minutes may be throwing off the temperature sensors. The engine may still be hot, but the sensor may be cool, so it overly enrichens the mixture. Just a theory.... Someone on the other list suggested tilting the bike to the right, rather than towards the kickstand side, possibly to deal with air in the petcock. If the problem is vapor lock then one would expect that insulating the fuel filter, pump and lines would fix the problem, but people are suggesting it does not. I am a definite NO on this issue. My bike idles great, with little variation in idle speed due to temperature. My pcIII has cured pinging and popping, I have had only one green light stall and that was after waiting ten minutes to cross the border at Tecate, Mexico. It then fired right up. When my bike is cold it takes about a full two second crank of the starter to tick over. If the bike is warm, it starts instantly. Perhaps those are helpful clues...

Interesting problem. My immediate thought was that it was too rich at the closed throttle position. And you did say that leaning it out at lower rpms helped a little. I would try leaning it out at the lower throttle positions rather than the lower rpms. I would also try taking the PCIII off the bike to see if that helps. Unlikely culprit, but easy to try. Next guess is a bad TPS??? Bad coils getting overheated then lacking voltage at idle???? Too tight of valves????? I imagine you have tried new spark plugs.

Don't let them stifle your fun, Al! I too have been procrastinating on building a ram air setup. I believe that the ram air can be increased at regular highway speeds by increasing the size of the intakes. An interesting factor about ram airpressure is that there is a stagnation point where the pressure can not be increased unless the wind speed is increased. So, my theory is to increase the air speed by using a megaphone type intake. Another idea is to keep the stock airbox and forward mount K&N pods. It would be a 2into one into 2 intake system!!! Thanks for the great tip on the pipe fitting, Tracy! Yo Brent, do you know if ABS will act differently at high temps compared to PVC?

I have had it hiccup at idle but, just a few times. I have also had it hiccup at medium light throttle while below 3000RPM. A little enrichment from the powercommander fixed it. The hiccup bites when you are going around a slow speed turn and it hiccups

Hey squashed, if the master cylinder replacement does not fix the binding, you might look at your bearings. I noticed that if I pulled in my clutch so that I was free wheeling, and then did quick zigs and zags at about 10-20 mph, I found that something felt like it was rubbing, I suspect either the shaft u joints or the brake rubbing. Now that I know that the wheel bearing was the culprit, and that my disk pads were getting scored, I suspect the rubbing sensation was caused by the wheel bearing being less then perfect and the rear brakes rubbing durring lateral shifts(turns) of the bike. It was also probably rubbing durring acceleration and deacceleration, but was not as noticeable. Did your dealer did try lubricating the master cylinder and the brake caliber before ordering the new master cylinder??? Cleaning the brake caliber pistons with extra fine steel wool can also work miracles. Oh, and just to make sure I stray off the topic. Here is my report on the Contis and ECB carbons. The ECB stop the bike a little better than the Brembo. After a few hundred miles on the Conti Force I have reservations. They are great up to maybe 80 mph, gripping very well and feeling confident in the twisties but, above 80 mph then they do not feel very stable. I would say the Z rating is not earned.

Great posts. I'd just like to second the motion for remapping the system. If you are getting pinging, missing or rough running of the engine, and it is otherwise well tuned, then you should remap with the PCIII or the Ultimap. People don't always claim great power gains, but always claim better throttle response and driveability. If Guzzi put an O2 sensor on their bikes, there would be less need to remap, but since they did not, there is the advantage of one less fuzzy factor to mess up the equation. The trick is to get the equation right with a proper map, so that you do not need the feed back loop. Now, if Guzzi built a PCIII type "tuning link" compatible rom chip into every ECU and individually dyno'd the bikes out the door of the factory, you would have a lot more satisfied customers and cleaner emissions and less need for an oxygen sensor

Al, the book says every 12000miles or once per year whichever comes first. But if you can get JRTs idea to work, I would do it every oil or tire change. JRT, great idea. Speaking of great ideas, assuming you are Jason Telford, check out my fairing http://www.printroom.com/ViewAlbumPhoto.as...5539&image_id=7 that was inspired by your fairing at: http://plasterbath.chem.uiowa.edu/fairing.html

Pretty funny Hi TEch, two six packs will work for me if I don't wanna remember who's centerline got alligned But seriously, anybody got dyno results to share with us, regarding these or any mods?

Toutizes, Ideally when someone posts a map, they should use stock settings, whatever they are, or specify what they changed. The bike should be freshly tuned, ie. TPS set, valves set, Throttle bodies set, and the CO set to stock. So yes, if your dealer enriched it, it will throw off the mapping. Keep in mind that all bikes are different and your best result will of course come from Dynoing YOUR bike. That being said, if you don't have time and money to dyno yet, or the have your dealer set you back to stock, go ahead and put on the map that is closest to your setup, then tweak the buttons to lean it out in the lower RPMS. If you start getting rough running, popping, etc., you will know it is too lean. Once you figure out how the buttons help the map, you can modify the map to not require the buttons. Setting up maps is fun, but if you have any doubts that you are making it way too rich or lean, see the pros asap to have it dyno'd. I found the 001 map really helped my stock bike, but increased fuel consumption. I am now on my 2nd modification of the 001 map. The bike is feeling quicker and more consistent through the power band. I also eliminated some pinging that I was getting above 5000rpm at mid throttle. I am probably getting one or two MPG better, 33 to 35 change. I think 40 MPG is realistic for my bike, and still have it running smoothly and powerfully. It takes a lot of riding to figure out where it can be leaned out or enriched. Someone who is experienced with seat of the pants jetting could do a better job. But, a dyno run would take away all the guess work and create a near perfect map, in about an hour(theoretical time, shop time may be longer).

Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain! Very funny Tracy, by the way, what mods have you made to your sport? So far all I have is a PCIII, napoleons bar ends, and BMW R90S fairing.

If I may revise my answer... As Janusz said, "your cap is good" The problem is the tip over valve. I came up with solution 4 (slit rubber nipple) before knowing about the tip over valve. If you want to fix it the 'perfect' way, find a replacement tip over valve from a bike which has a tip over valve that works. You may be able to simply re-position it and the problem will be gone! Some have claimed to do this. Leave the emission equipment on the bike and save the environment! Or not, and give yourself extra room on the bike by removing the cannisters as the others suggested. If you remove the cannisters, be sure to close off the lines to the intake manifold. Removing the tip over valve will fix the problem but, is a little hazardous. Keep in mind that older bikes vented directly to air with no tip over safety features.

a couple other things to do: 3. remove or reposition the "tip over valve" If it is not mounted upright it will shut off the air intake. 4. remove the rubber nipple that you should see when you flip open the gas tank. I cut a little slit in my bike's nipple to let air pass. WARNING removing of modifying either of these devices could cause fuel to spill all over you, the bike and the road in the event of an accident. Flames, death, pain, etc.

correction, dragon gts, not dragon corsa.

I had groaning rear brake durring the first few thousand miles. Lubricating the piston cylinders eliminated the problem. I had to replace the rear pads today with an EBC semi-metallic carbon pad set. The brembo pads were scored and starting crumble off a little. Total mileage on the rear brake pads 16,275 miles. They still had some depth left and could hav gone maybe another 5000 miles, but that would have been stretching it. For what it is worth, I consider myself a heavy front brake user and a light or seldom user of the rear brake. I also replaced one of the rear bearings today as it was showing some roughness of motion...Also tried a Continental Force 160/60 http://www.tiresunlimited.com/continental_...conti_force.htm I paid full retail, but you can get it for a lot less($89)! So far it seems about the same as the Pirelli Dragon Corsa 170/60 that it replaced. Both are pretty quick steering. Let me know if you want more feed back on the EBC and the "Cheap" Conti Force. They both need a little more breaking in, and to be tested for durability. But since I am chewing through tires every 5000 miles the Conti Force is looking like a bargain.

Go for open pipes! I am sure some hog specialist could custom bend something for you. If performance is an issue, you could probably dyno tune it with various restrictor sizes. I am sure you could get a bit more power. With open pipes and a restrictor, the tighter the restriction, the more low end and the looser the restriction, the more top end power. WEAR EARPLUGS! From what I have read, the Leo Vince's are a little louder than the Mistrals, and you can probably remove the fiberglass damping material to make it even louder. ps don't go driving by my window when I am sleeping!

Air Filters Air Filters Airbox Replacements: 1. K&N - Old #MG-1093, New # 33-2682 (Automotive application that fits perfectly) 2. Amsoil Products 2 stage foam # S1938 3. BMC #F45740 AND Airbox lid eliminator kit for newer Guzzi's - Sold by Fast by Ferracci. Apparently the original filter crosses w/ Fiat part number "Fiat 4434868" so, you may be able to find other matches. Seperate Filters for those eliminating the airbox. K&N 1. Tapered: RU-2580 (these are kinda small) 2. Non tapered: RU-0500 (smaller than below, but still good) 3. Non tapered: RU-0510 4. Non tapered: RU-0520 - Mostly the same dimensions as RU-0510, but 25mm/1" longer. UNI's 1. UP-4200 Foam Pod (2" I.D. x 4" L) Fuel Filters NAPA gold 3008 Is known to work. The following are from cross referenced and will probably work: TBIG"A" 95008, Beck/Arney worldpart 043-0660, Hastings GF106, Bosch 0-450-905-021, WIX 33008, VW-AUDI 431-133-511 & 431-133-511A Oil Filters Fram PH3614 will fit but construction is questioable. Go to WallMart and get the SuperTech ST3614 for around $2 (vs $15 for the Guzzi filter). This filter is made by Champion labs, is better constructed than a Fram, and has a 94% multiple pass efficiency rating. Just be sure to remove the decal on the filter before you install it. (Tip from Tracy Martin, off of the Wildguzzi.com site) Also the Amsoil SMF125 is supposed to work. Fluid Capacities and Conversions 3.5 liters of 20W/50 engine oil = 3.7 US quarts = 3.08 imperial quarts 0.85 liters of SAE W/90 tranmission oil = 0.90 US quarts = 0.75 imperial quarts 0.37 liters of a mix of 80W/90 and moly additive = 0.39 US quarts = 0.33 imperial quarts 0.4 liters of SAE 10 fork oil for each fork leg = 0.4227 US quarts = 0.352 imperial quarts

Here is some additional information you may want to know about engine oil changes. Non-OE Oil Filters Fram PH3614 will fit but construction is questioable. Go to WallMart and get the SuperTech ST3614 for around $2 (vs $15 for the Guzzi filter). This filter is made by Champion labs, is better constructed than a Fram, and has a 94% multiple pass efficiency rating. Just be sure to remove the decal on the filter before you install it. (Tip from Tracy Martin, off of the Wildguzzi.com site) Also the Amsoil SMF125 is supposed to work and be of very high quality. Capacity: 3.5 liters of 20W/50 engine oil = 3.7 US quarts = 3.08 imperial quarts Don't overfill it. The dipstick is read after screwing the dipstick all the way in with the bike upright. Recycle your Oil!

Why on earth does the fuse for the lights affect the starter? Is it because of the relay cutting the headlight while the starter is on? Do European bikes even do this? It is kind of a safety feature that if the fuse for your lights fails, so shall your ability to START the bike. So, you won't go riding off without brake and headlight. The turn signal is not included in this fuse because you should see it not blinking. The ECU and other engine related fuses are separate. Note that it is smartly designed that your engine will not die if you blow the lighting fuse. Older bikes often had the brake light on the same line as the starter for safety reasons. Now days the headlight is considered an important safety feature so, it is put on the same line and yes the relay cutting the headlight feature goes hand in hand with the safety issue. I don' know what bikes do this. It is a good idea but, it can make trouble shooting tricky. A couple of times after that I experienced fairly big hiccups - usually when opening the throttle to overtake or when I'd throttled off then opened up again. Is this common? Yes, this is common. You should look for an air leak between the throttle body and the engine. If no leak is present, no other problem can be found and the bike is well tuned, you might want to buy an ultimap or a PowerCommander to remap the fuel delivery. Personally, I think the Power Commander III is an essential accessory. But don't use it as a band aid for everything. Tune the bike first, ie. TPS position, valve adjustment, CO, idle and throttle body balancing. Then make it run better with a remap.

More than one relay controls the fuel pump. What happens is, the relay that feeds juice to the ECU also feeds juice to the relay that activates the fuel pump and injectors. Under the seat, I am not sure what the layout is. But, I suspect the two rearmost relays.

Great instructions for the manometer, Ian! My dial gauges are so outa whack, I must seriously consider making a water manometer. I was thinking of using slightly larger tubing to reduce bubbles and the overall size of the unit. The drawback would be less accuracy, but it only needs to be as accurate as I can adjust it. As for the mV reading for the TPS, it should be 150mV with stop screws out and throttle closed, At an idle of 800-1000rpm, it should read 500-525mV. I got this information from http://www.geocities.com/guzzitech_pages/t...ne-brannen.html Which has pretty clear instructions. As for probing the wire, I think it might be a good idea to splice a wire inline for probing. I have not done it, but if you look at the wiring diagram there are three wires coming out of the TPS. The violet should be 12V+, the grey goes into the ECU but because of the grey color it is most likely the ground-, the violet/black wire is the wire that I suspect carries the control voltage. You could use a cheap crimp type splicer, but those can damage the line. A better idea would be to shave off some insulation, solder on a wire that you can probe, seal with liquid vinyl electrial sealant. Or alternately, cut the line, add shrink tubing, resplice the line with the new test lined, solder, seal with shrink tubing. If it turns out I was wrong and the grey line was correct, repeat the process for the grey line! Warning what is in the wiring diagram or what is on someone elses bike may vary.