dlaing

If you don't have the best quality vacuum gauge, you may be able to alternate the left and right gauge and average out the difference to get the proper reading. I have no name brand mechanical dial gauges, they are terrible. It takes me five minutes to synchronize the gauges, and then I have to synch the throttle bodies and then re-synch the gauges and then double check the throttle bodies and if they are off re-synch the gauges, etc. etc. etc. I sucked in mercury once, so I second the recommendation for a twin max, although I have not tried one. The dealer saying that it is a break-in issue is all the reason to invest in a twin max. The bike should survive till the first tune up with no harm done, and then he can make a few bucks off of you. If it was my bike, I would not wait. Yes it is a normal problem, but it is a problem, especially if you are going around a slow speed turn and the bike hiccoughs. Hiccoughs are normal, but you should minimize or ideally eliminate them. I recommend you get a power commander. If your dealer can't get rid of the hiccup, I reccomend you get a power commander now, and have the bike dyno tuned.

Hi, could you tell us the brand and model of the anti theft device. Is it a lock or an alarm or does it disable the engine from starting?

I am not sure if I am getting better at shifting or the fact that I have 16,ooo miles on her. But, I am finding fewer and fewer false neutrals. I was often missing several times every 1000km and now it is about ten times less frequent. Do be firm with the shifts, and give it a fraction more of a second more time of the shifting and clutching to allow a good synchronization. Next time it happens, you might try coming to a stop, before reengaging the gears. Mine sure makes a nasty clunk when I try to get it into gear after a miss. I have been too impatient to try coming to a stop. But it is worth a try and may greatly extend the life of our drive train.

Metzeler says, "Check for directional arrow on tire. If present, mount tire so that the arrow points in the direction of rotation." I trust their statement over a Moto Guzzi manual. Sorry for being vague Janusz. The bottom line is to go with what the manufacturer of the tire says. We can't simply say the manual is wrong, because tire makers mark the tires different ways. Some mark in with an arrow that says front. If that tire is going on the front then the direction to mount it is obvious in that case. Some just have an arrow, that is vaguer, but if it is a "rear tire only" or "front tire only'' you can be pretty sure to mount it with the arrow in the direction of rotation. Chances are the tire you picked is "rear tire only" or "front tire only'' especially if you are using radials, as you should be. I am not going to be absolutely certain about this, because the tire makers are not clear about it. They should mark all the tires front or rear, with the arrow going in the direction of travel. But they do not do that. So assuming that they put an arrow on and it does not say front or rear, but you are sure that the tire was designed for only front or rear, than you may safely assume that the arrow goes in the direction of travel. If you are not sure that the tire was only designed for front or rear, contact the tire maker. Chances are anything that fits your bike will be clearly marked. Especially if it is Pirelli, Metzeler, Michelin, Bridgestone, or Dunlop. I have no idea about other makes. I know that was not clear, but I am trying to cover all the possibilities with an explanation. From what I understand, people are getting threatened with being sued for ridiculous things. If I tell you to mount it simply in the direction of the arrow and to pay no attention to what Moto Guzzi or the tire manufacturer says, than you or a reader of this discussion might be inclined to sue me and or this board. "I am not paranoid I know they are out to get me"--don't know the source of that quote, so sue me! I am sure your tire is already mounted and working fine.

I think they are talking old school, like when they used to put the same tires on front that were going on the rear. Many old Guzzis had front tires almost as wide as the rear. On older bikes you could use something like 100/90 in the front and 110/90 in the back. But today we have a much greater difference between front and rear. So if the arrow on your tire is marked front, mount it on the front in the direction of rotation. If the arrow is not marked front, you should check to see that the tire is marketed as a front tire, or as a front or rear optional tire. Very few tires that fit the front of our bike are designed for both front and rear. If you have any doubts, you may be able to consult the tire maker. I think there is inconsistency in how the tire makers mark their tires. What brand model size do you have?

Lotsa possibilities, wasp tail, under seat, airbox, headlamp, and possibly in the frame. I have no idea how to wire it. The ignition switches are a security hole. If you get Lo-Jack, I imagine in the frame is best. (Lo-Jack is a homing device, so that your bike can be found by radio) I would stay away from the ignition and fuel kill features. Starter kill is not a bad idea. Less secure, but less pain if it goes bad. If you do not want to annoy your neighbors, like I did with my first alarm, that malfunctioned, get a silent alarm with pager. That way you can run out into the street naked, blasting bullets into the bastards! Just make sure it is your bike that is being ridden when you pull the trigger. Warning: this type of response is illegal, although applauded, in most places, especially if it is the repo man that you murder. If the judge rides a Guzzi, you can always try to claim that it was justifiable homocide.

I really like it. Slim taper should keep excellent ground clearance. But I really like the look of the Mistrals for the Californias. Well have to do a photoshop mock up to make sure it looks as good as the Contis. Question: How difficult would it be to fit California or Tonti framed Guzzi mufflers to V11 Le Mans, etc.? I would like to be able to use an 'X' type crossover(preferably Stucchi), rather than the 'H' type crossover. But would consider NO crossover.

Hey Joe, CRG makes a rubber mounted insert adapter for their mirrors. However, because they are rubber mounted the image in them will be somewhat blurred by vibration. (total hearsay, but it makes sense) I think long ago someone on this forum commented on having used them.

Fun with PhotoShop! What do you think? I kind of have mixed feelings about the style, but it is unique(for now).

Great Rant Carl! I agree with everthing you said except I kinda like the Aztec and I really like the semi hidden muffler/crossover. I like the Aztec and the pipes mostly as a matter of function. More room for bags AND more ground clearance (double inuendo for both the Aztec and the pipes).

What are people doing about keeping the straps on the bike when the bag is not used? I have a Tour Master tank bag that stays on tight. It has a separate neoprene underpad that I converted into a semi-permanent harnass for keeping the clips in position when the bag is not being used. It works well, but is kind of ugly. ps for what it is worth, I believe Marsee is the maker of the Guzzi bag, and the Marsee price is probably better than the Guzzi price. But I doubt you get an Eagle with the Marsee bag!

Wait!!! Please, send me a 1280 x 1024. Thanks Thomas! Nice work! I assume you have a Macintosh, not that one could not do what you did on a PC...But people with good taste in bikes often have good taste in computers, even if they cost more... I too like the more classic looks of the V11S and Le Mans, but I am finding myself doing more sport solo riding than sport touring, so if I ever get off my @55 and start making real $$$$$$.¢¢ then that bike or the Griso would make a nice second bike, and then I could dedicate the V11S to more of a touring duty. Please email me at nospamdlaing@nospamsan.rr.com Please copy and paste to email and take out the two "nospam" that I inserted to reduce spam, like it could get any worse... Thanks for your trouble.

I'll second Rich's motion to put the spring back in. Emry, perhaps you could level out the taper on the springs with a file, or, file the contact point on the pads to better mate with the spring. I was having sounds come out of the rear brakes for a while, it took two lubings by the dealer to get the sound to go away. He used chain lube or chain wax. The dealer also lubed the front disk floater, which took away some pulsation that I thought was warped routers. That lasted a little while, and then I had to lube it again. Also, A little brake cleaner to clean the disks after lubing is not a bad idea.

The factory numbers are measured at the crank. Using those numbers perhaps you are close to 100/100! Certainly the Mistral crossover boosts mid range power.

AlfaGuzzi, How did you drill the can? Straight down the middle? I think your power estimate is a little to optimistic. It is possible that you are getting 100HP at the crank, but not the rear wheel. Unless you did some major engine work. ie. Bored it out, increased the compression, etc. Still 100HP and 100Nm at the crank would be very impressive. I don't mean to come across as rude, I am just skeptical. Here is a link to the best dyno reading that I have seen for a v11: http://www.geocities.com/guzzitech_pages/J...sso-John_T.html

good tip Chris, Lurkers are welcome. Another option would be to simply carry a transparent hose and siphon the fuel from one side to the other in an emergency. After all you probably should not rely that often on the last half gallon anyway. And a taste of fuel in the mouth will get you to top the bike off frequently. Perhaps a hard to access emergency reserve is more valuable than one higher capacity and no reserve???

Carl, the one accessory I did like was the muffler placed where the crossover is to allow for a narrow exit pipe. Great idea, (of course I thought of it before I saw that picture ) Thomas, the mirrors that shipped with my V11S were not great looking, provided no vision behind me, but did not vibrate too much. They definately need something better. Your idea does not sound bad. Aerodynamic signals and mirrors could look good, but be expensive to replace if Genuine Guzzi.

Drat, I guess I did not explain what I was thinking correctly. The balance tube would be completely inside the tank. I believe you would have to remove the gas cap assembly to get your paws in there, then possibly epoxy the tube into position.

Somebody posted two bros racing, I think our bikes take the 54mm. If you go too high, you will need to redo the brake lines, clutch lines and perhaps wiring. http://www.twobros.com/TBR_Website_NEW/Pro...3_Riser_HB.html Also, some have modified the triple clamp to except standard bars. Many other bars are available. Centauro swan neck bars may work too.

Deteriorating Rubber bums me out. I ought a bunch of O-rings to replace the rear brake return bumper, so that was easy to fix. Now I am looking for a better than aftermarket replacement for oil coolers rubber mounts. The type of rubber bushings that they put in skateboard trucks would be ideal. Now if the Skateboard Truck bushings were just a little smaller, they would be perfect. Perhaps I just need to figure out how not to torque down to much on the rubber. Any ideas would be appreciated. Also my rubber intake manifold things are starting to show signs of deterioration. Can I coat them with silicone rubber to slow down the deterioration?

I like the side oil cooler idea. I was thinking of doing that to my V11S to make room for the Ram Air Intake. (or placing the horns on the sides) I know Mike Stewart went to the deep sump so that he could eliminate the oil cooler, and possibly put in the Ram Air Intake. In any case, removing the oil cooler allows more air in to cool the fuel filter and fuel pump, reducing the possibility of vapor lock. I like the MGS exhaust system more than the Griso's. I can't quite figure out what they are doing with the swingarms. Are they paralever type design? They look good.

Ok, now how can I afford a 440lb 102HP Ducati eating "Griso"?

Great purchase Buck, I see your tool chest is big enough! As for making the bike more comfortable you can read back through the discussions and find alot of good ideas. Some people like to lower the handle bars, some like them raised. Some like the foot pegs moved down and forward and some like them moved back. Some like the stock seat and some like customizing it. Gel grips are a plus. Setting the rear suspension sag properly is important. Not enough pre-load, and you will bottom out pretty easily. Getting the damping right is a bit of a compromise between comfort and control. I don't think the supension has as much travel as your Beemer. I recommend that you ride it a bit before jumping to conclusions about what ergonomic changes you want. I thought the pegs were too high and forward and then I changed my mind after dragging my foot in a turn. Also I find that they are high enough that I can rest my elbows on my knees when in the tuck position. I used to ride sitting right up by the tank with my knees outside of the cylinder heads, but I eventually figured out that the position gave me too little leverage on the handlebars. Shifting back to the cowling gives me much better ability to counter steer deep into the turn. It sounds like handle bar raisers might be your first modification.

Buy it! You are a perfect candidate. Most of the issues are minor, but do count on using your wrench and only going to the dealer for parts and warranty replacement. The bike is a pleasure to work on. The valves are easier to adjust than a BMW. The valves should be checked atleast every 6000 miles. I check mine every 3000 and so far they only seem to slip off .02 mm at the most. The warranty response appears to be variable amongst dealers. Some whine and say, "MGNA never pays us enough for the labor"but most are fine and will pay little attention to things that might invalidate a warranty. I would not recommend a Guzzi to someone who did not like to adjust their own valves etc. unless they were wealthy enough to pay for all the tune ups, etc. My bike has never left me stranded after 15,000 miles, except for the time I ran out of gas. (The only gas station for 10 miles was unexpectedly closed #%#%!) Is a Power Commander Necessary? No, but it will help any V11 run optimally. The stock mapping is WRONG for all bikes. Not just to lean, but too rich and too lean at different places in the map. Yes you can tune the bike to run well without it. But running well and running optimally are very different.

Yah the underseat area is slimpickings, especially if you have evaporation canisters and a powercommander in there. I miss having big old side panels full of relays, etc. It might make a nice trick project to put V7 Sport side panels on the side and moving the precious ECU down there out of harms way of my toolkit that keeps threatening the ECU and PowerCommander wiring! I already had the misfortune of trying a heavy duty flasher relay under the seat. It was a little larger and my seat crushed it.