dlaing

You might also check out http://www.guzzisport.com/html/V11.html They have a different kickstand shown as well as the coolest upgrades...If I could only read Japanese?!

thanks for the post Chelmi. I had not really thought of the 150mv as being the base for the mapping calculation. I thought if the TPS mv were high, the bike would run richer and if it were low it would run leaner. But if it could effect the timing, that sure does change how important it is to get it set correctly. I have mostly been letting my power commander compensate for everything.

Good list Ian, there sure are a lot of common problems. Good thing there is a solution for almost everything. Timing bolts falling off is pretty messed up! If you don't mind I would like to steal some your data from that page to use on my slooowly evolving website http://www.scripps.edu/~dlaing/v11s/ I checked out your pictures of uncrating your Le Mans. http://www.obairlann.net/~reaper/bmw-bike/ It was great to experience through your photos what I had missed with my bike.

oh yah, and the rear brake noise was cured by lubing the rear brake cylinder. depressing it firmly at stop lights and engaging it while rolling backwards also seemed to help a little.

I had most of the listed problems. I have a 2000 V11S 14,500 miles The oil cooler brackets broke and were replaced at my cost with the improved steel ones. The Tachometer went and was replaced under warranty. The dealer also installed an extra ground line from the tach to the frame. Tank suck was a problem, so I cut a slit in the rubber nibble that mates when the gas cap is closed. I think removing or repositioning the tipover valve would have been the better solution. I have had oil weeping in many places, nothing major, so nothing done other than cleaning off the oil, yet. Front brake warp symptom was cured by lubing the disk at the floaters with silicone spray. (apparently the disks were not warped) Pinging at full range of rpms and popping at low rpms cured by use of power commander, but the fuel consumption is up, 30-36MPG(US gallons) so I need a better map than what shipped with the power commander. Front tire cupping cured by getting a front tire that had the grooves running in a direction that did not promote cupping. Cracked starter cover, no fix yet, but I should drill a stop crack, asap. Bolts have loosened and fallen out. I should locktite everything! I have lost the rear muffler torx screw, the security bolts that hold on the ignition lock, the bolts holding on the side covers, and a couple others. Tail light bulb has burned out. I now carry one as a spare but would like to go to an LED lamp. Original relays were replaced with Bosch 0 332 207 307 with no electrical problems in over a year. Handle bar vibration was reduced with "Gel Pro Grips" and bar end mirrors. Although the mirrors vibrate more I can see behind me and the handle bar vibration is much less. I have thought about buying V11Lemans bars to replace mine. Wind blast was kind of reduced with a bmw r90s fairing. The blast of air is reduced but there is more turbulence. It is nice to tuck behind the fairing over a tank bag on long interstate rides or to tuck behind at 100+MPH. plus it looks cool, but not as cool as the magni fairing.

Those look awesome! Nice finish on the end caps. Eric could you please explain the dyno chart to us. It looks like the red might be with stock mufflers and the blue with the Maxtreme. The fainter lines appear to be the torque curves, but the difference between red and blue on the fainter lines appears to be too much. It also looks like the mid rpm dip is greatly reduced! Power Output looks great!

http://www.powercommander.com/706-211.shtml with or without stucchi crossover and using the stock airbox. You can read Todd's write up on dyno tuning at http://www.guzzitech.com

Sorry I created a lousy poll. You can only answer one of the ten questions. So please mark the worst problem that you have experienced. I am curious about not only what can go wrong, but also what can you do to fix it.

Don't know what made me think an 1100S was a BMW R1100S. Please disregard my previous comment.

Excellent! glad to hear the map is working out so well. My stock bike with powercommander is getting 30 to 36 MPG. I still can't decide what mufflers to get. Once that is decided, I will have to do the remap. "Mom, can I borrow your laptop?" I wish the software would run on a Mac, @#%$@!

I have kind of suspected that almost all mufflers are essentialy generic. The only thing custom is how they fit the bike. From what I can tell most mufflers are just a fiber glass packed perforated tube. Some models do better with some bikes and worse with others. I did notice that staintune seemed to use a unique can for the v11s etc. I'll bet the Leo's for Guzzi are the same on the inside as they are for Ducati's I have been waiting to hear some feedback on the M4s as they are one of the few fitted for the v11sport, scura, le mans, etc. It would be great to dyno all the available crossovers and mufflers and get dB reading on them all. I am sure the mufflers all perform pretty closely. I am leaning towards the staintunes as they have a removeable restrictor. If I could fit a supertrapp that would be even better. But then again the mistrals sound so sweet! I suspect the Leo's might have more power(louder) then the Mistrals??? Are the Leo Termignoni's the same as the Fast by Ferracci? I imagine the m4s are no slouches, and I believe harper's has a powercommander map to go with it. Raceco makes a muffler that according to a dyno puts out a lot of power. see http://www.scripps.edu/~dlaing/v11s/PDQDyno.jpg What else is out there? Guzzi Jingushi shows something, but I can't read Japanese. Black Bubs on the V1100Sporti are kinda ugly. I am sure I saw something else. guzzitech.com should be producing a report soon with a few options and dyno results....Enough rambling...

I use the key because I am superstitious that if I leave the headlight on for one second without the engine running, my battery will die! Plus whenever I have tried using the kill switch I forget to switch it back, and look like an idiot when I try to start it. I have thought that it is cheaper to buy a kill switch than a key switch, so that may be a reason to try to wear out the kill switch. However these bikes are pretty good at taking the load off of the ignition switches and putting it on the relays.

I think it is a cross over that lets the gasses expand. The expansion creates some muffling, and allows for a mellow exhaust tone.