dlaing

Well put! I have probably aimed for tiniest amount of pinch that I can detect, but technically I think Baldini is more correct. The old dogs tale is to equate pulling through a dictionary, but that is too variable and implies some pinch. I verify my methodology by going one smaller and one tighter. One smaller should feel too loose, and one bigger should not fit...assuming a difference of gauges of 0.05mm (.002") or greater. Be sure your pull is parallel. Be sure to use good, not too battered and not too corroded gauges, and verify at different places on the gauge. It does not have to be perfect. Just don't mess up and set it at the wrong TDC position.

30mm of laden sag is pretty good. To be sure we need to know both laden and unladen sag. The target many seem to go for is 15% unladen sag (sag from bike's weight) and 30% laden sag (sag from bike's and rider's weight) Other numbers can certainly work. I prefer somewhere between the 15%/30% rule and Ohlins recommended (note Ohlins rear shock has about 20mm more travel than the Sachs shock) : Without rider: Rear: 5-15 mm Front: 25-30 mm With rider: Rear: 30-40 mm Front: 35-50 mm So for the Marzocchi Sachs set up, you might target: Without rider: Rear: 10 mm 8% Front: 20 mm 17% With rider: Rear: 30-35 mm 25-29% Front: 40 mm 33% I think Ratchet recommends something like 18mm unladen and 36mm laden both front and rear. He is about your weight. Matching front and rear sags theoretically better balances the suspension. I prefer a softer rear shock for comfort, but since you do a lot of two up, Ratchet's numbers should work great. Also, backing off on the compression damping really helps the comfort. One of the biggest mistakes people make is adding too much rebound damping, which can cause the suspension to pack down and ride rough. So, give it just enough rebound damping.

Here are the standard values listed in the WORKSHOP manual for the early V11 with Sachs, Rebound: position 20 Compression: position 10 Spring Pre-Load 13mm For the forks, I did not now find standard values, but I recall there are some. Regardless of the standard baseline numbers, getting the right springs and pre-load should not be delayed for long. Ratchet and Richard offered good advice. Go ahead and spend a little time dialing in damping, but spring selection and pre-load setup ideally should be the starting point of getting it setup. I recommend starting with damping backed all the way off and then adding damping and doing bounce tests to determine if it helps. Once close, test ride it to find the right damping adjustment. But the springs are the most important part of the suspension. Select the proper spring and set the sag correctly! Start by measuring the sag and adjusting atleast the rear pre-load. I suspect the links Ratchet provided should show you how to do that. If you tell us your sag numbers we can give you an idea of what to do. If you tell us your weight, it can also give us a clue. If you are lucky, your springs are the right firmness, but if not springs are relatively cheap.

I have been getting heat related popping below 3500, mostly around 2500. AFR was between 13.0:1 and 13.5:1, but when it popped it would spike lean. I tried readjusting valves, idle, balance, and checked TPS. I discovered a small leak in the intake manifold rubber throttle body mounts, where they meet the aluminum intake manifold, but sealing it made little or no difference. So, I moved on to remapping. I kept gradually enriching and it got better, but not perfect. I was fearful to go below 13.0:1, but your comments lean me towards believing it is necessary. Also I found an interesting lean spot at 1500 RPM. It runs rich at 1300 and 1700 RPMs, and my Tuneboy fuel cells are at 1300 and 1700, so to enrichen at 1500 I made it even richer at 1300 and 1700. Another thing I did that seemed to help was change the engine temperature modification so that it runs less rich when still warming up, and less lean when running hot. But I only made subtle changes. I think at 45,000 miles I am ready for a new chain tensioner. Luigi's VVT works more and more on chaos theory, the more worn it gets

Be sure to pay attention to the direction the seal went in. I think I put mine in backwards the first time Also, I recall something about how deep you set the bearing or the seal.I think if something is too deep or too shallow, the bearing rubs against the seal or something bad. Sorry, I don't have more details than that. Just be careful, and ask the experts if in doubt....

Getting back to the Calcium 4 percent is about 1.15 ounces of calcium. How many sticks of chalk (Calcium Sulfate) should we add to 'normal' gear oil to make it behave like Shockproof? Just kidding!!!! while it may work, I would not go messing with the chemistry of the lube that way, but apparently Redline essentially did just that by adding the equivalent of a few pieces of chalk. It might not be Calcium Sulfate, it may be pure Calcium or Calcium Carbonate or who knows what. Maybe we can get back to arguing whether or not Redline put "moly" in the shockproof. Ratchet says there is no such evidence, despite the listings of molybdenum in the mix and the listing of sulfur in material safety sheet.

You aren't the only masochist...good night.

To me it would still be a V11. You could keep the spine of the frame. The same VIN number, the same beautiful body work, and much of the same feel, only lighter and more powerful. No, it would not be 1100ccs, but it is not 1100ccs now. We would jump from 1064 to 1420. I have no problem leaving on the V11 logo rather than calling it a V14, but if you insist, then fine, we have no argument. I have said that before, and still Ratchet argues about Hayabusa eaters in the middle of Lube threads....WTF?

We have been through it all before. If you want to say it is no longer a V11, fine than we have no argument. You had the chance before to define what keeps it a V11, but you abstained or ignored the request. Yes, the bike would be so different that the only things remaining from the V11 might the spine, VIN number, Engine case, Engine number, vehicle registration, fuel tank, body work, and gearbox. You could probably keep some other parts like the over weight headlights and the cheap cast aluminum bits, but why bother when the goal is to build the ultimate V11. 160 alleged HP Big Bore engine (maybe less to make it more street worthy, but don't worry, we'll get the weight down well below Hayabusa weight, and the torque will be better than a Hayabusa's). Carbon fiber wheels, Ceramic bearings, Titanium axles, nuts and bolts everywhere, Composite brake rotors, Billet brakes components, Kevlar brake lines, titanium exhaust complete, Some Rosso Puro bits like like their triple clamps, and rear sets. Some frame bracing, Rebuild the tranny and bevel box with that slick coating stuff, drilling the gears for lightness, Surely we need a better clutch, probably custom made of unobatanium with a built in cush to save the other components, Ohlins superbike suspension like what Valentino Rossi uses, Titanium sub-frame and swingarm, Cliff Jeffries' MY15, if you can still get those other ECUs built into the tach/speedometer, and a partridge in a pear tree. All just to keep up on the street, which is limited by sanity anyway.... Hayabusa *** Moto Guzzi ultimate V11 1299cc *** 1420cc water cooled *** water cooled four cylinder *** two cylinder 16 valves *** 4 valves 151HP *** 120-160HP??? (advertised kit is 125CV, but Guarro's is allegedly 160HP) 93 lb-ft(127N-M) *** 13.5M-Kg - ??? 478# dry *** 420# dry ??? Here is a cool bike from MillePercento (who may be Big Bore): claimed 120-130HP Is it still a Griso? only US$20,000-ish I'd still rather modify a V11. http://www.thebikergene.com/naked-bikes/bi...atch-the-looks/ Beisel posted : http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=132376 another article: http://www.fasterandfaster.net/2008/02/mil...-griso-bb1.html

"Stay tuned" is good advice I am guessing that your two week old valve job may have slipped off a bit making it impossible to tune correctly. A bad spark plug might cause the same problem. Why it was running better before you brought it in was probably due to heat issues, although a Perfect mechanic would have gotten it back into at worst the condition it came in as....But few are perfect.

According to this PDF Shockproof heavy is (by weight) 4% calcium, 0.2% phosphorus and 0.6% Molybdenum... http://www.redlineoil.com.au/Uploads/Downl...gopds%20001.pdf Unlike engine oil, I don't think they are concerned about acid build up in the gearbox oil. Like Phosphorus, Calcium is likely there to reduce wear or as the Mazda guy suggested, shock. Does it wear out in 3 weeks of racing by being pulverized? I don't know. But I think water contamination reduces its life, so I plan on disregarding the guy that fed Ratchet that info, and I'll be changing mine soon. I'll let y'all know if the shifting improves. Of course some of you won't believe me if it does improve...same as you won't believe a $100,000 V11 with BigBore engine like Guarro's can keep up with an un-modified 2007 or earlier Hayabusa....

I have nothing to apologize for. And being of some Scottish ancestory, I will not apologize for Scotland! In the immortal words of that Australian-American racist Hollywood, California, celluloid hero playing a Scottish hero in the movie Braveheart: William: Ay, fight and you may die, run and you'll live. At least a while. And dying in your beds many years from now, would you be willing to trade all the days from this day to that for one chance, just one chance to come back here and tell our enemies that they may take our lives, but they'll never take our freedom.

That was Fun! Especially the track day! I'll try to post some photos another day...

Good idea. Earlier I had noticed with my WBO2 meter that one side was leaner running than the other. I compensated for it with balance and the air screws, but I began to notice more popping, so put the meter back on and it had gotten worse, with lambda of over 1 (too lean) on the left side. I sprayed some WD40 around the intakes while idling and found no increase in rpm, but I did notice the lambda drop(get richer). The air leak is where the rubber intake meets the aluminum intake, between engine and throttle body. Between throttle body and rubber it was fine. I also tested the right side and it had the same problem but not as drastic. Tightening it helped only very little, so I took it all apart, cleaned and conditioned the rubber with some rubber protectant/conditoner, and now I have to put it back together. I will CAREFULLY add some silicone RV to ensure a good seal. It also gave me a chance to clean out the TBs and spray the injector jets with cleaner from inside the TB. Now that I think of it, I should clean out the bypasses, too. Back to the garage...

Adding Peter, we have got Todd, Jon, Don, and mason on Tontis, Peter, Van, and Al on Tenniis, Joe, Mike, Gonzo, and myself on other spines, that makes at least 7 of the 11 of the 12 on Spines!!! Still no word on whether or not Pierre can make it....maybe he is the 8th of the 12???? I just discovered an air leak in the intake, so off to the garage...It would be shameful if one less spine can't make it...

Looking forward to seeing the eleven of you at the rally! It is not too late to tell your boss you need a week off. Nearly everyone West of the Mississippi should be able to make it on short notice. Those East of the Mississippi might have to pull a triple iron man. You may only live once. It is better to regret what you have done, than what you have not done. Life is too short. Make your hay while the Sun is shining. I hear the coffee will be good.

Funny, I have never been able to warm up to beating small furry animals or eating frog legs, But French toast and French fries, now you are talking Will we see you at the rally, Frenchy?

Jeff does a fantastic job of making sense there, but it is a difficult procedure and requires an understanding of his last post there. Two things that I would like to make better sense of, are why do some bikes not work with 150mV, and what is the ideal rpm to balance at. As I slowly rev the engine, my bike does something like this: balanced at idle, unbalances to left, balances at about 2000 rpm, unbalances to right, and balances at about 3000 rpm. I need to make a more exact analysis. Since the last tune up there has been increasing popping at about 2500 rpm, so maybe it needs balancing there, rather than at 2000 or 3000rpm, or maybe it is slipping off. I need to get it right before taking a road trip to the international rally this coming week!!!

The Micha method ignores and overrides the 150mV. (this is apparently helpful on SOME bikes)

Today I picked up a boat load of coffee and paraphernalia from Cafe Moto who generously donated enough stuff to fill my wife's car half full. Coffee drinkers please show your appreciation for their generosity to our community by buying their excellent coffee. (I have been a fan of their coffee for years! plus their name and logo are cool) http://www.cafemoto.com/ You can order online Cafe Moto or from their store in Barrio Logan. 2619 National Ave San Diego , CA 92113 Store hours: Monday thru Friday 8:00-5:00 pm Phone: 1.800.818.3363 or 619.239.6686

PS, has anyone noticed if Tonti V11s are cheaper to insure than spines?

Thanks for the replies! I completely agree that it pays to shop around. Does how you describe a bike effect the rate? When asked if my bike is a sport bike, I replied that it is a "standard" bike. Then they ask is it a touring bike or a sport bike, and I say it is more of retro sport-touring bike, but if I have to pick one category, I would say it is a touring bike and that it is not a crotch rocket. I suspect the last statement helps me get a fair rating, that it is more of a touring bike, and not a crotch rocket.

Did you read the words, "I don't think so" I guess the sarcasm is tough to pick up on. Let me rephrase, Worse than that! (sarcasm intended) He is acting as a barrier to Christopher Scum's "artistic expression"!!! laugh.gif (sarcasm intended) Perhaps MacGuzzi is one of them redneck ignoramus bible thumpers who doesn't understand ART? (sarcasm intended) I don't think so (no sarcasm intended), but maybe Christopher Scum is a redneck ignoramus bible dis-respector who doesn't understand ART?(no sarcasm intended) I loved the quote that triggered the sarcastic remarks, "...and the struggle for artistic expression in the heart of America’s 'Bible Belt.'" Artistic expression? Yah, I have a wide definition of art, but I don't expect everyone to call Scum's work "art", and you don't have to be a bible totter to not like it. The promo has me intrigued about the movie, but Scum's appearance in the promo and on other Youtube videos does not help me appreciate Scum's art. Maybe if I saw the actual film I could appreciate Scum's "art". I think this film could make it some film festivals!!! (no sarcasm intended)

Worse than that! He is acting as a barrier to Christopher Scum's "artistic expression"!!! Perhaps MacGuzzi is one of them redneck ignoramus bible thumpers who doesn't understand ART? I don't think so, but maybe Christopher Scum is a redneck ignoramus bible dis-respector who doesn't understand ART? I loved the quote I think it could be a fun film, but I don't think I'll be buying any Rebel Scum recordings.