dlaing

Why the vast difference from quote to quote? My quotes must be going from store A group C pricing to Store B group A pricing depending on whether or not Store A scores me a 666 and Store B an 86. Incompetence? or a "sucker is born everyday" strategy? If, my sales rep is not profiting by offering me insurance for 1000+ per year, is (s)he merely ensuring that (s)he does not get in trouble for grouping me in too preferred of a pool? What is the motivation? the threat of The Director? When quoted outrageous rates should I be negotiating for a better rate? I didn't think that would work!?! What does the government have to do with it? Does the government demand that profit cannot be taken from the pools?

Are you saying it runs better, but still not perfectly, after the colder plugs were installed? I am pretty sure changing intakes from .007 to .006 won't reduce lean stumbling. Changing from .0007 to .007 would reduce lean stumbling!!!

I know for a fact they made an underwriting profit off of me!!! If they were truly regulated by the government, I don't think the quotes I got would vary several fold. $275 vs $1000+++ per year.

Any chance Sean and Pete will meet up with Lori and the Relay rally crew heading from Minnesota, through South Dakota, through??? Perhaps meeting in Salt Lake City??? Or Las Vegas?????? http://journal.nationalguzzirelay.com/

I liked the Dropsonic.

The Napoleon bar end mirrors absorb some of the vibes. I imagine smaller bar-end mirrors will absorb proportionally less, but some mill the stock barend weights down to fit the CRG mirrors, so you get the best of both worlds.

I don't think you would have much trouble finding someone willing to trade the necessary parts. But not me!!! I prefer to go naked.

I keep shuffling Insurance dealers and getting quotes all over the place. First State Farm gave me best deal, then they jacked the rates and I went with AAA, then they jacked the rates and I went with Wawanesa (or was that just for my car???), and then I got a better deal with Geico, $275 per year with $500 deductible, and declined uninsured. When I got earlier quote from Geico before I was married, they wanted four times that. Progressive was also very expensive when I got quotes in 2001 and some other year. I kept trying Progressive because they were cheap for me before the early 1990s. I think it is all in how you fall in the brackets. Shop around!

I'd hold on to her and look for donor parts, engine or bike. Sorry, but glad you could walk away.

I usually adjust my valves every 2000-3000 miles and I see at least one valve being a bit off every time. (of course I may have a recession problem.) I wish CO meters were cheaper, because then we could all have one, and not just depend on luck. Valve adjustments are easy and fun Just pour yourself one straight up and follow up with throttle balancing and happy days! If it is still acting up and you can't get to a CO meter, try a different air bypass setting and see if it gets better or worse. You can always set it back if you note what it was set to.

I started today at about 30 - 40%. It ran normally.

I don't think it samples idle, nor barometric pressure to lock in for a run. As a test for barometric, I started at maybe a 1000 feet, rode up to 6000 feet and turned engine off, ate lunch, turned it on again and noticed no difference, rode back down to about 1000 feet, turned engine off, turned it on, and again noticed no difference. I noticed differences at various altitudes, but I did not notice changes when turning engine off and on. Therefore I suspect the barometer actively adjusts for altitude. ( I recall someone suggested otherwise) I would of course need O2 readings to prove it. The same test could be done at idle... Maybe I'll start the engine today at 25% throttle....

My Tuneboy does not indicate zero angle when I turn the key on. Maybe for some irrelevant fraction of a second, but it pretty quickly shows a reading of 2 or 3 degrees. Turn the engine on and for my bike is goes up a fraction of a degree to an unstable reading jumping between 3.6 and 3.8 degrees, while the voltage reading is stable at about 521mV.

Hollywood is close to Malibu, so BFG should have no excuses. speakin' of coincidences:

So, it is strapped vertically, and you could blow are through the tip over valve to the tank? Strapping it anything other than vertically won't work, and air should flow into the tip over valve, towards the tank. If you tested it blowing towards the evaporation cannisters, that would not be an adequate test.

I am not sure that is the only way. Specifying a TPS reading at idle, rather than key on / engine off, may work better bike to bike. For example some have claimed little variation whether engine is running or not, but some show a difference of 80mV. I disagree. The owner's manual is not making much sense there, and I don't think you should draw that conclusion from such a statement. The TPS angle at idle effects timing and fuel injector width at idle.

Interesting. I have not tried experiment 1. I have essentially done Experiment 2. Durring my last tune up I got between 141 and 148mV, depending on how gently I closed it. Most snap backs were about 142mV. It surely makes sense that not using the RITS, like in experiment 1, would have more variations in the how the TPS reads at idle. But I don't think that variation is as important as the smooth transition off of idle as you give it gas, when using the LITS. To my mind using the RITS complicates things, but I would agree that perfectionists can get better results by both LITS and RITS. Perhaps the bike will hold the state of tune better and linkage may wear out more slowly if both screws are used???

Some of that idle variation may be the "oil" or engine temperature sensor, and a little variation is normal but I have had success (and failure, so be sure to note what it was set to) changing the throttle bypass screws. Results are not instantaneous since the change in mixture effects the temperature and vice versa, so test riding may be required between adjustments

PS for whatever it is worth, with my meter A:F was about 13.3:1 at three quarters of a turn out. TPS is set to 145mV disconnected and 521mV at 1150RPM

I would be sure to try dialing those air bypass screws in first. Does idle speed change a lot at various temperatures and riding conditions? When my bike needs a tuning, I often get a variation in idle speed. Idling in hot weather at a traffic light it will become higher, and coming to a stop from freeway speeds, it will drop to 1000 rpm or lower. Then I know I need to tune it. Now that I have a wide band oxygen sensor it is easier to set the air bypass. I simply warm up the engine and set A:F to about 13.3:1 I am not sure of the ideal number, but so far that seems to work well. I still have to get the rpm logging working for proper testing...

How strange. From my understanding, without replacing parts, the Penske can be adjusted in maximum eye to eye length two different ways. 1. The method in the manual is to simply unscrew the eye. Mine does not have that option. The result of lengthening it at the eye five millimeters should not be what you observed. It should have raised the ride height. 2. The method I must use for my Penske is to unscrew the shaft from the lower perch. Lengthening it here has the side effect of reducing preload, so if you left the preload adjuster alone and just lengthened the shock, the preload would drop causing the bike to sag much further. Your number for drop in ride height seems to match what we should expect for that scenario, but I would have expected a much greater increase in sag. FWIW, from a very vague memory, my OEM bike had something like 25mm unladen only, 50mm laden front sag and maybe about 15-20mm unladen 50-60mm laden rear sag. Before replacing the rear spring I set the rear up to about 5mm unladen and 35-40mm laden I wish I had taken notes...but that is all happily in the past.

Does your bike have O2 sensor and catalytic convertor? What year is bike? What is TPS reading at idle? How far out are air bypass screws? To lean it out only in particular rpms you need the PCIII or mapping software. The air bypass screws effect lower throttle openings. The "trim", controlled by Axeone or the TechnoResearch VDSTS has a similar effect to the air bypass. How similar? I don't know. I think it effects idle most and then tapers off in effect the further you are from idle....but I am not sure... Raising the TPS voltage at the potentiometer can trick the engine into thinking the throttle is more open, so it USUALLY, but not always, gives it more fuel....timing is also altered. It might be worth changing the 150mV to maybe 165mV and see if it behaves better. But before messing with the TPS voltage, be sure to adjust valves, check settings again, test for back fire, try adjusting bypass screws to a different, probably more closed position, then test for back firing.

Pretty frustrating. You have done every test possible for the battery, the charging system and the wiring? If so, then your bike is simply cursed and you should trade it in for a Tenni Is the charging system putting out between 14.0 and 14.6Volts? If less than 14V, it is possible that the battery is not getting charged adequately, whether new or not. After failing to start, the battery should show 12.7 or more Volts. If not, the problem could be the charging system. 12.6V SHOULD start it if all is optimal, but could still indicate a problem. 12.5V or lower, more likely indicates a problem with battery or charging. None of those numbers are accurate indicators that it should or should not start, but the volt reading could provide a clue. When you click the starter, and it won't start, there are some tests you can do. If you have automotive jumper cables you can create a more direct ground path from battery to starter. It may be possible to neglect to connect one of the ground cables to the battery, and for everything to work. Likewise you create a more direct path using jumper cables for the positive wire, but don't short it out. I like to put expensive silver conductive paste on my connections. Not sure where the ground wires ground, but that would be a good place to clean and protect the connections. If all your relays are 5 pin, you could try swapping them around to see if it starts.

I think if we say "gently snap back", that would be fine. We do want to ensure it is completely closed.

Sounds good to me. I like your detailed testing and thoughts on the matter. It should help us create better instructions. It is not easy, even for we, who speak "American".