dlaing

Getting a volt reading on the battery when it has failed to start the engine could cast a clue. Also, when it fails to start, try putting it in a higher gear and move the bike forward with ignition off, just to free the engine up, and then see if it starts. Do you still have one of the old starters?

I remember there was a guy on the forum that complained about speed wobble at 60MPH, and then a week later put up a classified saying bike for sale, in perfect condition! I'll never make it in sales. I would write something self destructive for the ad, like "some wear, consumes oil and too much fuel, a few cracks in plastic, dropped a few times, some 3rd class bodges, and I farted in the saddle twice, but otherwise it is in close to mint conditions."

I had him down for Could be, Possibly, Perhaps.

Which Motoport do you have? I find it hard to believe the Santiago will breath better than the Motoport Kevlar Mesh Jackets. But the Santiago may be a better Jacket because you can close up the vents, or so I assume. Interestingly, I recall Motoport (Cycleport) rates their regular Kevlar at the same temperature comfort levels as their meshed kevlar.EDIT I checked that, and they are both rated to 120F, but the Air Mesh is claimed to be better behind fairings.

I need a few hours more to respond to that. Ryland is off on a wild goose chase, passing the baton (medallion) in the 2008 Guzzi Relay to the Rally. When he comes back maybe he can give his thoughts.

That thread covers much of what you are bringing up. We made many compromises for the sake of simplification. The only serious problem I find with "the forum method" is there variations in bikes that don't seem to like the 150mV setting. But I'll try to cover some of your criticisms and additions. Pretty similar to Micha method, but mV is a little lower, and he allows for some flexibility of the air screws. The critical difference between the forum method and the other methods, is that the forum method does not recommend adjusting the potentiometer after the 150mV is set. We may need to modify that more to compensate for variations of bikes, but I am not sure how best to handle that without much more complex instructions....and even then, I have not yet got it figured out. Mr. Bean's version of the Micha method in effect compensates for the variation issue, but it could steer bikes not having the variation issue into a gambling situation, where it may or may not work well and results from tune up to tune up do not reproduce as well. I agree the forum method could be clearer in a few spots. I thought we left most of the analytical stuff out of it. Thanks for the comment, as it is hard to see that it might be too analytical when we analyzed it for weeks. It does take into account the 2003+ Euro 3 versions, by making a compromise at the target setting (521mV) and allowing adjustment to lower the mv to meet the correct air bypass and idle. That was one of the areas that I think we could be clearer. The initial balancing at idle with connecting rod gets us close, and it sets the idle TPS. It is simply a starting point. It is followed with air bypass screws to achieve idle rpm speed, while maintaining balance and ideal TPS reading. At that point we NEARLY have perfection, but there is likely to be some variation at a higher RPM, so we set balance at higher RPM, which throws off idle RPM, so we reset idle balance with air screws... The process repeats itself in a simple fashion until we are close enough to perfection. It is nearly a flawless procedure. The only fault in the method is that the idle TPS reading can change during the process, but it should only change insignificantly. Ideally watching and adjusting the TPS during the process would be ideal, but it complicates the instructions. I need to experiment more with that variation in TPS reading at idle, from engine off to engine on. I suspect the observed variations are due to imbalance. Our process balances the throttle bodies and, I SUSPECT, minimizes variation from engine off to engine on. I believe that engine on more accurately reflects our goal, but when we wrote this, I don't think we experienced more than 20mV variation. You mean the fifth fuse 15A and sixth fuse 5A. Not a bad idea. Having a naked bike I disconnect my headlight down near the lower triple clamp. We discussed forcing the butterfly to seat should require gentle pressure, not snapping back. But the idea of seating, reading, then unseating and seating again, re-taking the readings is a good one. We just wanted to keep the instructions simple, and we don't want people damaging the throttle bodies or the butterfly valves. Who knows? Maybe they are tougher than we imagined, but I would not advocate snapping back, without knowing for sure that it should not damage anything. You edited out many of the words in the middle there. It makes it hard to follow and gives the false impression that the method has holes in it. Did you copy an earlier work in progress version of the method? Forum method is here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12204 1/ I think you have that backwards, setting with right screw would create more of a lash inaccuracy. 2/ I don't understand the point you are trying to make.

And the balance could throw it off even more. I have not set my balance in a few months, so it could be well off. Time for a valve adjustment and a full tune up. Will try to do that experiment this weekend.

That is strange. At first I thought Cliff's vacuum explanation made perfect sense, but this may fit in better with the 5v ground theory, or the air temperature sensor(not because of air temperature), another sensor changing the reading, or a drain from fuel pump and injectors. Key on, engine off, the fuel pump primes than stops. Engine one, the pump goes. Something is happening in the ECU to do this. But if something changed the mV with Cliff's ECU, he would know about it, or maybe not, as it is a small change relative to the 12v system???

The regulator in the early V11 is supposed to let through 14.0 to 14.6V. I recall Docc's is running lower than that, possibly indicating resistance between alternator and regulator or regulator and battery The cooking of his fuse indicates resistance. The failure of his GEI relay could be caused by a number of things, but I am guessing it is related to a combination of what cooked his fuse, and something about the fuel pump. The 150 degree reading at the fuse probably indicates a little too much resistance, but maybe it is normal??? I would check the charging system out by the book. Here are some excerpts, only slightly re-written, otherwise quotable: CHECK THE VOLTAGE OUTPUTConnect an alternate 200 Volt capacity voltmeter to thetwo yellow cables.Start the motor and check that the voltage output is included within the values indicated 15VAC@1000RPM 40VAC@3000RPM 80VAC@6000RPM REGULATORThe regulator has been calibrated in order to maintain thebattery voltage at a value between 14÷14.6 Volts. The pilot light (illuminated when the engine is not running,but the key is inserted) will switch off when the generatorbegins to charge, (approx. 700 r.p.m.) REGULATOR CHECKS Normal work-shop tools are generally insufficient for regulator checking, however, listed below are certain operations that can be carried out in order to detect regulators that are defective. THE REGULATOR IS CERTAINLY DEFECTIVE IF: After having isolated it from the rest of the system short circuits can be detected between the earth (aluminum casing) and any of the output cables. I like to check for voltage drop. I am not sure what is "normal" but check the voltage difference between battery and red line coming out of alternator. If significant (0.5V or more???), than narrow down where the resistance is by testing between battery and fuse, and between fuse and regulator. Some other ideas regarding fuel pump: I mentioned before a clogged fuel filter or line may make the fuel pump lug, but Docc's filter is new and presumably was installed facing the correct direction. People say if an electric petcock fails the pump can still pull fuel through, again possibly lugging. Did docc convert to manual petcock? And of course, the great cure all: Clean all connections with anti-oxidant contact cleaner and use silver conductive paste to eliminate oxidation and ensure connectivity.

Good Question!!! Looking at Carl Allison's earlier diagram it connects with the air temperature sensor and does not directly ground out. Which is not likely correct, and a correction was made to it in a later version that connects the TPS ground with the air temperature sensor, the 3 way diagnostic connector, a ground point, and the 23 and 24 ports on the ECU. Looking at my shop manual, it connects with the air temperature sensor, the engine temperature sensor, and port 22 on the ECU. The port 22 could very well be the same ground as used by the 5V reference. Given that all three are 5V devices, it seems likely. But Carl's could be correct too. We could try checking the TPS using the frame or battery negative as ground, to verify...

Could be. I thought I previously tested the difference and got about a 10mV variation. But now at 43000 miles there is more difference.

Thanks! So much for that idea.

I hope you did not tolerate them pushing you around! You know it is your God given right to be a pig.

Interesting posts. I got a difference today of 521 and 582. This could be a good reason to set the right set screw, to avoid flexing of the linkage at closed throttle. This is a difference of 60mV at idle and perhaps more under hard deceleration. Raz's difference is even greater.

I am surprised you are not too lean. I wonder if the 2003+ V11s have a better ECU map???? My Air to Fuel Ratio is all over the place. I'll get it leveled out one of these days....soon.

Since the owner has changed, you are correct. Otherwise, people tend not to change so much. Yes, it was Franz that I dealt with...

I am pretty sure Guzzi rated the V11 more HP than the V1100. The V11 as self rated by Guzzi is Power. 91 hp at 7800 rpm — CEE Torque. 94 Nm at 6000 rpm — CEE And from the info I could find, Guzzi rated the Sporti at 90HP. One whopping HP less than the V11. Of course the torque curves could be different, and the RWHP could be different. Also, the 1100 had less strict of emissions testing to pass. But far more poke?!? I doubt it.

I got back from a ride half an hour ago, read this post, went out and felt the temperature of the Shockproof heavy, and I must say that is well over 105F, but less than 160F. From my experience as my wife's personal Barrista, heating her coffee to 160F and mine to 140F, the mug temperature at 140F is pretty close to the temperature of the rear drive after sitting in an ~80F garage for half an hour. Riding temp was about 70F.

On most bikes it is impossible to fit a standard fitting on a flex hose to the zerk without disassembling the swing arm or grinding down the fitting. Bikes may vary, and even bike sag may effect success rates. The problem is getting the fitting at the correct angle to the zerk. The roof of the hole in the swing arm that the shaft passes through is too low. People have had success with various, non-standard fittings, and with removing the swing arm. I am going shopping at ACE hardware, to see if I can find a 180° swivel fitting...

It is difficult to see from the photo, but should be worth a try. Is that what Leafman meant by a hinged fitting?

Longevity is the only negative of the plastic. Once packed with something to conduct the heat to the sensor tip the plastic's insulating capabilities make it superior. The key is to conduct to the sensor's tip and not the body, and not to cool down the conduction the way the brass unit with cooling fins does. You want to measure the internal temperature of the engine, not an external temperature that better aproximates the variable temperature of the cooling fins, as they endure different weather. The brass fitting, unless you wrap it with insulation, gives a closer indication of the temperature of the cooling fins than the core of engine. The plastic AND brass unit results in a cooler running sensor, and if there is direct conduction to the tip of the sensor it gives a truer indication of the core of the engine. Copper and Ceramic might be a better solution. Or as I have said before, the bean counters simply could have ordered the engines tapped to fit the sensor directly, assuming heat is not a problem, as some claim, but I think it is too hot.

Luck of the draw??? You may have noticed the nearly identical external construction of the Hawker Odyssey PC545 and the Spark 500. My guess has always been that the Spark 500 is a rebadged Hawker Genesis. The Odyssey offers superior vibration resistance compared to the Genesis because the Odyssey has thicker plates, but I would not be surprised if there is a compromise made, like maybe the Genesis may have more plates, or more acid, and if the vibration does not kill the battery, the Genesis should last longer. (or the Spark 500 if identical) But we may never know for sure. My Spark 500 lasted over four years and was probably killed by bad connections. I replaced it with an Odyssey that lasted about a year, and died, probably because of the same bad connections, or a bad regulator. My current Odyssey is going strong at two and a half years. I hope that with regular use of the Odyssey Optimizer, and more attention to my charging system, it will last many more years. It better because the price keeps going up.

After reading your research, I am not surprised about the reliability of the Omron's so far. I suspect most of the few GEI failures were related to other problems. For example docc also reported burning at his 30A fuse. Docc's and Quazimoto's both failed at the fuel pump relay. Could just be a coincidence... Some say the charging system should not put out more than 13.8V, but many do. Could that be a contributing factor to relay failure. Maybe there are some other stories I forgot or missed?

While you are figuring out how to make it not happen again, take a look at Skeeve's brilliant post about the mix match of seat latch and throttle advance ("choke") return springs. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...6&hl=spring

I had to go to small claims court to get Spare Parts to deliver, back in the 80s... With regard to PCIIIs, claims that modified bikes are running problem free without them, IMHO, need to be looked at analytically. Sure some are running pretty well, but with a PCIII or ECU mapping software they can run better. Ask yourself if you are happy with the slow damage being done to your engine running it at air to fuel ratios of 14 or 15 to one. If you are content with the slow destruction of your engine, then fine. My Quat-D was running in some place at 16:1 before remapping. The PCIII and a dyno session aren't cheap, but neither are new valves, etc. Then again there may be rare horror stories of engines blowing up on dynos. It is your choice.