dlaing

These instructions are very good http://www.geocities.com/motoguzzi1064/Guz...alvesTorque.htm

Interesting question. And if any tuneboy junkies out there have some maps to share, maybe we should start a file share...

The Guzzis with 16M allegedly had a hiccup or miss bug. But the bug would nearly disappear when chipped to run richer. “Computers aren't intelligent, they only think they are” --unknown

Pump it 20 times! But your description of "No brake, no power." seems to indicate contaminated pads, otherwise you probably would of said the brake pedal is spongy or just sinks. It is possible for the brake pedal lever to be blocked by the exhaust. More far fetched possibilities are that the pads fell out or got wedged, or the pistons took the opportunity to mess with your head and seize up. Keep us posted when you return.

As I understand it, there are two possible problems with running it too high: The first problem is that the oil could start blowing excessively into the airbox, causing excessive consumption and some oil leaking out of the airbox, on the left side where the throttle body connects. If you add a windage/sloppage sheet/plate, the reduced windage will reduce the chance of that happening. The second problem is that the increased level reduces the air space which increases the air pressure pulses as the cylinders approach Bottom Dead Center, and the increased air pressure pulses cause the seals to leak. Also, it can theoretically cause a reduction in power. I don't think we have heard of any seals leaking at 4 quarts, and some people are apparently running the oil level up to the bottom of Pete's sloppage sheet, which might be about 5 quarts, and still no reports of blown seals. And there has been no evidence of any reduction in power, and in fact there have been a couple reports of the sensation of more power after installing Pete's sloppage sheet and presumably running the oil at a higher than the high mark on the dipstick.

Any insulation should help but if you are going to bother, it seems like getting the metalized sleeve would be the way to go. I never had the problem, but I used split plain black heater hose where the fuel line is closest to the engine. If it was aluminized, I'd be more confident.

I like that idea. I would think the best placement would be just before the fuel pump, but the valve may be more prone to transferring heat to the fuel. So we might have to place the valve by the petcock, but would that work? Maybe the hose needs more of disconnection than a relief valve, since the petcock is already functioning as a relief valve. Another idea might be to put the fuel pump on a cool down timer, but then we might come back to a dead battery

This thread explains why it was not a record: http://socal-guzzi.com/PHPBB/viewtopic.php?t=1810 Bill Ross said something about the engine was not inspected, and some other technicality. When he gets serious and goes for the record, it will probably be over 160MPH!

Its not even an enrichener, it simply increases the idle speed. But the ECU is "Smart" and enrichens when the sensor says the engine is cool.

No doubt. Changes in weather and random differences in gasoline quality can throw off subtle differences in engine behaviour. Thanks for the comments

I thought you were suppose to sprinkle it on your manhood

Lazy fingers! But good point about the sensor. As you probably know, some pack the sensor housing with conductive grease to help transmit the engine heat to the sensor. Also, the sensor could simply be loose, which could make it run cooler. Careful tightening it as the plastic housings break from minimal torque.

So, you already tried the quick tune up of valve adjustment, TPS setting, throttle body balance and it is still running weak? Then I would check air filter as Skeeve suggested. I can't get no, Satisfaction

What is "us"?

But dude, it looks like a one by three. But I do like the look of white Guzzis

Yah, those are very different, and nothing like what I would predict, although for the most part we can see one cylinder certainly needs more fuel, but the change at higher throttles defies what I would predict. I thought the differences would follow the RPMs more than the throttle position. My TuneBoy is supposed to have that functionality, but I have not figured it out yet. Thanks for posting that. Motoguzznix did an interesting study in A:F ratio of each cylinder

If you have a Quat-D you should get a PCIII. I think you will find the bike more prone to pinging with the lidless air box, in which case you will be even more in need of some way of re-mapping. Rip the lid off, and get a PCIII! You won't regret the money well spent! But put money into suspension and tires first...

Misled?!? We have seen the bodge jobs coming out Ireland. You should have 50 bodge points by now! But you may be right about us yanks. Look closely at the piece of wood holding Joe's tail lamp on: http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g280/jos...t/vfrv11009.jpg

unfortunately that does not work. The fittings are wrong. I'll bet you Steve G. has the normal setup. Petcock and fuel level on left, pressure regulator on right, pump down low under tank, and filter up high under tank. I suppose that means there is less evidence now that my patented vacuum trick would work If you put pod air filters on, is there enough room to relocate the fuel pump and maybe the fuel filter where the airbox was? What is the Tenni layout? pump near the oil cooler?

If you carry a hose to fit the vacuum line, it could be a lot easier to activate the relief valve to reduce pressure than to detach and reattach the fuel lines...assuming it works. I ALMOST wish I had the problem so I could test it. Of course it won't lower the pressure as much as detaching the fuel lines, but if it does the trick, you will be a happy camper, with no gas all over your hands Don't suck on it too hard. I suppose it is possible for the diaphragm to rupture and for you to get a lung full of gas. As I said, our lungs can create about 200mm HG and only 20mm Hg is necessary. There was talk that the pulse of the engine could damage the diaphragm. If that is the case, than maybe 200mm Hg can damage the diaphragm too. Just suck it like drinking a sodapop with a straw, not like drinking a thick milk shake through a straw.

I never would have guessed that is DEVO. Very nice! i'm speed racer and i drive real fast he's speed racer and he drives real fast i drive real fast i'm gonna last i'm a big pirate and i like to steal he's a big pirate and he likes to steal i like to steal and i like to kill go go go speed racer i'm a barbie doll but i got brains she's a barbie doll but she's got brains i've got brains and i like sex [ Find more Lyrics at www.mp3lyrics.org/Ku7 ] lots of brains and she likes sex i'm your doctor and here's the bill he's your doctor and here's the bill doctor steel and here's the bill he likes to steal so here's your bill i'm speed racer and i drive real fast i'm a big pirate and i like to steal i'm a barbie doll but i got brains i'm your doctor and here's the bill i drive real fast i'm gonna last i like to drink and i like to kill lots of brains and i like sex like to steal here's your bill -Devo

I heard my name mentioned. The man's bike needs a black opal on the left and a rose quartz on the right, both mounted on the upper triple clamp, and a tune-up!!! After mounting the Crystals, start with valves, insert new spark plugs, then set the TPS, balance the TBs, go for a ride, smile and send a donation to the forum Admin mentioning how valuable it is to have free Crystal Therapy available online. But you can skip the rocks and go right to the tune up and you will get roughly the same result

What would happen if you raised the TPS to 500 or 521mV and closed the air bypass screws enough to keep the proper idle? What is the reason you chose 485mV? If you go to a higher mV than 485, it seems like you might get rid of the occasional hiccup around 2800 RPM on light throttle, reduce valve recession, reduce engine vibration, extend engine life, and maybe lose 1 or 2 MPG.

Very interesting! and a bit confusing... So, it seems you closed up the butterfly valves to 440mV, which should require giving a lot of air bypass, and thus leaner, especially at low throttle openings. Then you set the PCIII leaner at low RPMs. Then you set the trim leaner, which mostly effects low throttle and RPMs. So, basically you took three steps to make it run leaner!!! And the mind boggling part is that it runs better like this... I am wondering if you were at the point of running the idle too lean, at maybe 14.7:1 Air:Fuel ratio, and going further lean actually cooled it down enough that valves did not tighten up too much???? I recommend the .15/.20mm over the .10/.15mm, but many claim to do fine at the tighter, manual recommended settings. I believe it is standard operating procedure for the dyno-tuner to zero the PCIII buttons and the Throttle Position at idle. Make sure they do!

Differences of timing and flow. One of the cylinders, I forget which one, has to work a little harder. It has something to do with power cycles following different degrees right to left, and also interaction of crossover flow in the airbox and in the exhaust crossover(s). I don't know which is a greater factor. Others could answer the question better... I myself am also curious as to why.