dlaing

I think so. Technically it is the heat causing the vapour lock, but the relief valves may be aggravating the situation. Why does the vapor lock go away when the pressure is released? Is it a matter of decrease in pressure results in decrease in temperature? Lower pressure lowers the point of vaporization, so it seems a little counter-intuitive. But maybe the decrease in pressure and resulting movement of fuel allows the vapor lock bubble to enlarge and break up???

OK, even I admit this following idea is possibly out there, but all this talk of double switched fuel pressure regulators, huffing, and venting off fuel pressure got me thinking, what if you attached a hose to the non used vacuum port on the fuel pressure regulator and sucked on the hose? We only need our lung/diaphragm power to create a vacuum of 10mm Hg. I went to the garage to test my huffing ability and got my vacuum meter up over 200mm Hg, so that is not a problem. Does anyone know first aid for mercury poisoning? Just kidding. I know, not funny... FWIW I used a mechanical gauge that contained other toxins than Hg Anyway, could this be a cure for vapor lock? It won't knock the fuel pressure down completely, like disconnecting the fuel line, but it might do the trick???

I understand the need to chug the chardonnay, to stay cool but the huffing? Huffing is for suckers! There are better things to inhale than airplane glue, spray paint, and gasoline!!! I have friends that actually like the "It's a small world" ride at Dizney land....as I said, huffing is for suckers, and huffing is the only explanation I can up with for their taste in entertainment Do you know about making sure fuel lines aren't contacting engine, and some of the other solutions??? Stay cool!

OK, so after making a near best effort measurement of the oil level it appears that after putting in 3.5 crudely measured liters of Yak fat, and idling it for about 3 minutes and then letting sit over night, putting the sidestand up on a brick so that it is nearly upright, but leaning to the right just a little, I thread the dip stick in, and find that the oil appears to be at or barely below the sheet. Residual oil on the sheet makes it tough to read accurately. So, to verify I shine a light in and can see that the top of the sheet has spot puddles of oil, indicating that the oil is at or below the sheet. I cannot see a gap between sheet and oil so I think that indicates that the oil level is right at the sheet level. I could get my wife to hold the bike upright, but unless I fill the bike with EXACTLY 3.50 liters of oil, the measurement will not be any more meaningful. I am satisfied with the level of the sheet, and think it is the perfect level, IMHO. But like I said, this is a work in (slow) progress, and unless the gaps can be better filled, Pete's Moto Moda sheet is quite a bit better at controlling windage and it better seals the sloppage. Ryland found that using Pete's sheet at 3.5 liters or 3.7 quarts he could get the oil pressure to drop, but not to zero, and increasing the level to 4.0 quarts, (I recall) resulted in no drop in pressure. It could be better to run at the 4 quart oil level for other reasons like oil service intervals and oil temperature. I have never had the oil light come on except for the normal ignition on, not running condition, so my bike is not the best test case for pressure drop from shlop. But my bike does consume oil until the oil level drops to about the 2/3 full screwed in measurement, so it may be a good test case for that reason. I am hoping it will stabilize between the sheet and the high mark. Will keep you all informed months from now. I need to go for a ride...

Static damage is my bet, but optimistically, contact oxidation could be the culprit and some gentle cleaning with DeoxIT or a similar product may be enough. Do handle with care to avoid static damage. But yah, as RAZ indicated, everytime you swap the chip you are risking damage to the socket. But if you have to pass the test, you have to pass the test.

Good question, I have been wondering the same. I think it may actually go over it a little. The bottom of the sheet is between 17 and 18mm above the top of the pan gasket. If I could find Ryland's measurements that included the pan gasket height, we could confirm. Ryland measured with dipstick that 3.5 liters is 18.23mm below top of sump gasket. If we know the distance between sump and pan gaskets we will know the answer. I suppose I could measure. With dipstick resting on top of threads the high mark was still below the sheet, but I did not measure how far below. According to this FAQ http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...amp;hl=dipstick the oil level is half an inch above the high mark measured that way. If that is the case, and I have no reason to doubt it, some oil will be above the sheet when filled to the recommended 3.5 liters. I expect for the oil to burn off and find a happy level somewhere near the high mark on the dipstick. Since the dipstick is rubbing against the sheet, I probably have a new high mark at sheet level. I will check on that tomorrow, but reading dipsticks is not my forte...

I traced it, but if I send you a copy of the trace it will lose accuracy. I would recommend you either dismantle the sump to get the hole spacing right, or buy a sump gasket and use it as a template for the holes. You can use this photo to print out and use as a ROUGH template, but keep in mind the design can certainly be improved on. Note that photo is taken from over 6 feet away to reduce the bending effects of perspective. The first image I posted is from three feet away, so it is clearer, but more distorted. Heavy card stock or foam board may be good for creating a template. If you are good at that sort of thing, go for it, otherwise buy one of Pete's sheets, as it saves a lot of labor. Pete's design still has other advantages like fewer gaps for sloshing oil to pass through, and is more solid, and it actually increases oil capacity a little and slightly lowers the sump pickup. So, my design still needs to be tightened up, and perhaps made of high carbon steel. Perhaps it could be broken into two pieces, one like what I designed and one to cover the front left, as Pete suggested it should have coverage there.

The piece most vulnerable is the piece dangling by the dipstick hole. I think it is strong enough. Pete knows the metal, so he could confirm. I agree with Pete that aluminum would have to be substantially thicker. I am guessing it is mild 12 gauge, but it could be 10 gauge. I suppose I could measure the scrap. On the revision I may consider a better steel, but I seriously doubt it needs to be any thicker than it is.

The dipstick hole does rub against the plastic dipstick. Yah, I caught that too late. It went in fine as I was working it, but I had to file down some fine adjustment to get the bolt holes to line up, and before you know it I had loctited it down, and it had shifted enough to touch the dipstick. It still screws in, but you can feel it rubbing. I am a little concerned the tip of the dipstick will break off due to vibration against the edge of the sheet metal, but I'll take my chances till the the next revision. That was also a reason I did not want to cut the tolerances too close, fearing the sheet metal might vibrate into an expensive and critical piece.... I was wondering about the aluminum and its weight. Thanks for the advice. Also, not that it matters much, but I would prefer to save the space in there for air or oil, not metal. I'll stick to steel. It is easy to work with, and I don't think it will rust in there. Besides it makes good ballast! Thanks again!

Pete sent me his working copy to bastardize, so after about 8 hours of jigsawing and filing away at the 12? gauge sheet metal that Pete mailed me I came up with this: The advantage of this design is that you don't need to add a second sump gasket and, if I could get it better sealed, it would work better at lower oil levels. Of course, some will argue that you should not be running it at lower oil levels, but since that is what I have been doing for over 40K miles, old habits are hard to break, and I don't want to go above the factory recommended 3.5 liters. As you can see it offers little protection in the front, but should knock down some of the wave action From the rear, you can see where I was sloppy in making it fit. I should have started with a better template. I needed a heavier card stock, something more rigid than what I had. Maybe next year I'll tighten up around the edges, and make it out of aluminum

What is your base TPS setting? And what PCIII map are you using?

Your PCIII map must have been making it run too rich. Since your mV changed 10mV when disconnected and 81mV when at idle, I am guessing that when you set it to 521mV you had to take away too much air screw. Just out of curiosity, do you know what the bypass screws are set to? Be sure to note the settings. I would try simply increasing the TPS at the TPS from 440 to 450 mV at idle. This should bump the disconnected 140mV to 150mV and it should not mess up how the bike runs, and the next owner of the bike, or people you share the PCIII map with will have greater success, and your ignition timing will be slightly closer to what the factory intended. Once mapped the bike is going to run well regardless, so you won't gain anything from a change of 10mV and you certainly don't need to regard my suggestion, but that is how I would do it.

Here are some places to buy springs: HyperPro from Guzzitech http://www.guzzitech.com/store/HyperPro-FS.html Or HyperPro from HyperPro http://www.hyperpro.com/products/springkits.asp Here is Guzzitech's current pricing. Fork Spring Kit: $139.00 + $12 shipping within the U.S. Rear Spring: $126.00 + $12 shipping within the U.S. Combi Spring Kit: $259.00 + $20 shipping within the U.S. HyperPro rising rate springs are pretty close to a one size fits all solution, simply set the sag, but for out of the ordinary weights (I am guessing 400 pounds) be sure to contact them, as they MAY offer other spring rates. HyperPro also offer lowering kits that lower the suspension at the spring. But I don't know if they have anything for our model. Hypercoils by Hyperco http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_pro...;action=product Rear Spring: $66.95 + 9.60 shipping within continental U.S or Canada The rising rate HyperPros are a great choice for sport touring and street conditions, but Hypercoil straight rate are the racers choice. HyperCoils are about as light as you can get without going to a titanium or composite spring, and the durability is first rate. Also, they come in a large assortment of sizes and spring rates. A good selection of spring weights will help you dial in the suspension, and the straight rate of the spring better matches the damping in the shock absorber. HRP World has great prices, but Traxxion's staff understands motorcycles and can help you select the right spring rate http://www.traxxion.com/store/detail.asp?product_id=SSH

Another option is to install a HyperPro rising rate spring ( progressive spring ). WCBallabio was pretty happy with the HyperPro springs in his bike. Thanks to the research of Ratchethack, BrianG and myself , we know something about the HyperPro spring. The spring is 2.25" Inner Diameter x about 6.5" free length, which should work perfectly for either the Sachs or the Penske. We can be sure there are options available for other shocks, too. I was concerned the spring might be too firm, especially after seeing the 144 N/mm number, but the following explanation and my experience of going from stock to 475# to 550# and wanting still a firmer spring, has led me to believe it should be fine at least for riders over 200 pounds. Here is a comparison from Traxxion, for I believe Yamaha FZ1000 spring options, measuring the amount of weight needed to deflect each inch (note, the numbers do not compound) HyperPro: 10mm Preload 1" 517 #/in. 2" 640 3" 728 HyperCo "Hypercoils" 7x550: 14mm preload 1" 530 #/in. 2" 550 #/in. 3" 565 #/in. Translating the numbers that Peter van den Bogaard of HyperPro gave Brian and Ratchet in other threads, we get: Start rate = 90.13 Nt/mm. = 9.190556 Kg/mm = 515.0929 lbs/inch End rate = 144.2 Nt/mm. = 14.70407 Kg/mm = 824.103 lbs/inch[/i] The 515# closely matches the 517# in the chart above, but the 824# does not match the 728#. At first I was thrown off by the numbers and thought the spring would be too firm. I had feared this meant that the deflection would look like this: HyperPro: 10mm Preload 1" 515 #/in. 2" ~650 3" 824 But, I think that means that at first it acts like a 515# spring, but with a progressive force that after three inches require 824# of force. HyperPro: 10mm Preload 1" 515 #/in. 2" ? 3" 1885 HyperCo "Hypercoils" 7x550: 14mm preload 1" 530 #/in. 2" 1080 #/in. 3" 1644 #/in. Which is not as severe a difference. Cutting the numbers in half due to the leverage of the swing arm, we can estimate how much weight on the bike is needed to deflect the spring HyperPro: 10mm Preload 1" 258 #/in. 2" 578 3" 942 HyperCo "Hypercoils" 7x550: 14mm preload 1" 265 #/in. 2" 540 #/in. 3" 822 #/in. I think the HyperPro will offer more comfort on small bumps and less bottoming on big bumps, and may better match the airspring/metal spring of the front forks. NOTE: This originally appeared in this thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ost&p=53998 If the preloads were the same, the Hypercoil numbers in the first table should be a little lower. Since the ratio of leverage on the spring is about two to one we might presume that we can cut the numbers in half and add them up see how much weight it will take to deflect each spring/ Note shock stroke on Sachs is about 60mm or about 2-2/5", so we won't be seeing force corresponding to the third inch of stroke.

I don't know much at all about welding, but... and also,

Good idea.

Interesting... http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarti...ntentId=7032644 Castrol Syntec 20W50 for classic cars. It claims high zinc levels and best of all it is the only oil I have seen warn: "SYNTEC 20W–50 does not meet the catalyst compatibility requirements of vehicles manufactured since 1993." AND "Engineered to increase wear protection for classic cars with flat tappet camshafts." But if you look on the spec sheet for their 20W50 it says that is SH, SL, SM, etc., but not SG WTF? Wish someone would do an independent test on it, and a few of the other oils. Here is some more info from Castrol, that was posted here: http://www.opelgt.com/forums/6a-engine-mec...et-engines.html Product Recommendations for Flat Tappet (Solid Lifter) Cam Engines: Castrol Syntec 5W-40 (min Zn = 0.10 wt % = 1000 ppm)(full synthetic) Castrol Syntec 20W-50 (Recent reformulation identified by "Recommended for Classic Cars" text on back label) (min Zn = 0.12 = 1200 ppm)(full synthetic) PREFERRED Castrol TWS Motorsport 10W-60 (BMW dealerships) (min Zn = 0.10 = 1000 ppm)(full synthetic) BMW Long Life 5W-30 (BMW dealerships)(min Zn = 0.095 = 950 ppm)(full synthetic) But 0.12 Zn is probably not enough, and the oil is otherwise dubious compared to the true synthetics. Here is a good article flat tappets http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/...appet_cam_tech/ Looks like Penzoil and Quaker State make some racing oils with a better Zinc level.

I am sure Frank carries a Scuba tank with him to prevent drowning... TPS is shouldn't be as overwhelming as it appears in our forum...and we are always willing to help from our armchairs... But watch out for the predators,

Greg is generally right, but if you shop around, there are some good deals. Of course we should shop local and give our local dealer an extra few dollars to help keep them in business. But here are some good deals: http://www.solomotoparts.com/product.php?productid=16239 Motul 5100 10W50 or 40 $9 per quart with free shipping if spend over $100 On SALE http://www.sandhillspowersports.com/sandhi...powrsynt1060_06 Has the motorex 10W60 for under $12 US per liter, but you need to spend $175 to get the free shipping http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_pro...;action=product Redline 20W50 (automotive) one dozen quarts shipped for $106 and best deal of all, (in my biased opinion) I have been looking for a price like this for a long time: http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/Produc...ode=M-ULTRA-OIL Maxima Ultra 5W50 only $11 per liter with free shipping over $99 Maxima is San Diego based, I wonder if their warehouse has cash and carry??? Check the free shipping fine print, as it may exclude oil.... In my opinion all of these oils are worth it. If you are cheap, no excuses, these oils will last longer than most of the competition. I tried Mobil 1 automotive synthetic once and changed it after 1000miles because I swear that it was the only oil I ever used that the engine ran noisier after the oil change.

hmmm? nom de plume: enduro Guzzi... I suspect you would be better off with a Quota or a Stelvio? But if you stay with the LeMans, make sure you have a good firm suspension, Consider fender extenders, fork guards, ProTaper bars, Enduro boots, and yah, that belly pan/skid plate may be a good idea. photos appreciated

The Ti ECU apparently needs a different TPS setup: See this link for incomplete and perplexing details http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=141517

Thanks, that is good to know that the Motul 5100 is still SG. Motul's 300V, 4100, 8100 are SL, which is pretty close to SOL The Motorex usually seems too high priced, but it is good to know a good 10W60 SG is available. Not all Motorex oils are true SG. They bill many of them as being both SG and SJ which means they can't have as much ZDDP. Stick with their Power Synt and be sure to check the labels as they may change on you. Also, Motorex makes a 10W40 especially for BMW Boxers that may be suitable. I need the W50 where I live. I swear the Repsol 4T full synthetic I use was SG Time to switch to something else, or maybe add in some ZDDP I know people have scorn for additives, but I think ZDDP additives could make the newer oils work. Any opinions on a good ZDDP additive? Since I just bought 4 liters of Repsol SJ, I am going to use it.

I think the only true SG you oil you'll find is stuff that has been sitting on a shelf or in a warehouse. AGIP 10W60 is SJ rated, according to this site www.americanagip.com Is "exceeding SG" as good as just being "SG"? I'll go by the zinc phosphorus ratings.

Technical Data Color D 1500 Amber Amber Viscosity SUS @ 100°F 390 465 Viscosity SUS @ 210°F 68.9 83.1 Viscosity cSt @ 40°C 74.5 92.1 Viscosity cSt @ 100°C 12.66 16.3 Pour Point, °F -50 -40 Flash Point, °F 424 432 Viscosity Index 171 178 SAE Viscosity 5w40 5w50 Maxum4 Ultra 100% Synthetic 4-Cycle Motorcycle Specific Oil 100% Synthetic 5w40 & 5w50 Ultra Exceeds API SG/CC specs Exceeds proposed JASO-MA M/C specific 4T specs

Repsol Moto Racing 4T 10W/50 Description Full synthetic lubricant especially formulated for use in four stroke motorcycles in the most demanding conditions, such as is required in high competition racing. It has been developed in collaboration with some competition teams. Technical Specifications • SAE Grade 10W/50 • Density at 15ºC (ASTM D-1298) 0,889 • Viscosity at 100ºC cSt. (ASTM D-445) 17,2 • Viscosity Index (ASTM D-2270) 160 • Flash Point ºC min. (ASTM D-92) 215 • Pour Point ºC max. (ASTM D-97) -42 • Noack volatility, 1 h. 250º C (DIN-51581) 13 • TBN, mg KOH/g (ASTM D-2896) 8 • Sulphated Ash, % wt. (ASTM D-874) 0,9 Quality level ß API: SJ ß JASO T 903-98 (D) Type MA ß HONDA SPEC.