dlaing

Glad to read that you can learn sumpin'. Do you use a pump for your sumpin'? I don't have [a latin language] manual. I have a [latin language] workshop manual. Latin language, Neo-Latin language, and Romance language all describe the languages the manual was written in. It would have been more clear if I had said Neo-Latin, or better yet Romance. Saying that the manual was Latin Language could be misconstrued by the brilliant people on this forum to mean that it was written in some form of Latin. Saying that the manual was Neo-Latin Language, could be misconstrued by the other smart ones on the forum to mean it was written in New Latin. If I had said I had a Romance Language manual, that would be the clearest, and only a few would be thrown off and think that I was confusing my Guzzi manual with a Harlequin novel. Thanks for keeping me in check. I probably still should have been clearer still and refered to it as "my workshop manual written in Romance languages". For the record, the manual was written in a combination of some of Latin derived languages. I was not sure which, so I chose to describe it as "my latin language workshop manual". I probably should have at least capitalized 'latin'... And I should have sought out the Italian quote rather than the French, for sake of the 'world' forum.... Do you think we could convince people to stop saying "world valve settings"??? It is ambiguous and irrelevant to our International model of Guzzi.

I think you have a bit of a trade-off here. There would be some improvement from the more evenly distributed force, and maybe less wear at that contact point, but if it slid at the contact point, rather than being locked into a ball joint, I would think less load would reach the valve stem and guide, but if you lock in the force from the ball joint the valve is going to follow the arc and put more side load on the valve stem and more load and friction on the valve guide, right? or am I missing something. (was that a run-on sentence) Maybe roller rockers will be a hot selling upgrade for this bike. In any case, I think a short radius is bad, but maybe it has less lift??????

No we don't need numbers to know if it affects the regulator, but we need numbers to know how much it affects the regulator. The restriction of the orifice is minimal. My balancing meter feels every pulse of the engine. The only questions are, how meaningful is the effect and more importantly, is the effect beneficial or detrimental? Ratchet detected no difference, but apparently only used his subjective feel for how it rode. I am not surprised that it makes no perceptible difference under load. The greatest engine vacuum is when under deceleration and the lowest when under WOT and load. I would be very surprised if it does not change the threshold for popping under deceleration, and it would probably change it for the worse because it would run leaner (assuming that is worse, but it could be quite the opposite, depending on the mapping). Assuming that is true, the only benefit being a slight increase in fuel efficiency. How slight a change in fuel consumption is anybodies guess...as you said, we need numbers and analysis. I suppose you could put a vacuum guage on it, divide the fuel pressure by the vacuum pressure in atmospheres and subtract the result from the fuel pressure at 1 atmosphere to give you a theoretical estimate of the change in fuel flow. Actual flow variation from a change in pressure will offset the answer. But I don't know how to calculate that. I imagine efficiency of flow decreases geometrically as pressure builds, but to what extent, we would need to chart the fuel injectors. Probably a better way of measuring would be to log the lambda under real riding conditions. I just got my WBO2 working, finally, but the darn logging is not working right. eBay buyers beware! First, the kit was incomplete and I ended up waiting months for the eBayer to not send me the missing part, second, the sensor was bad ($100), third, I needed to re-solder the power supply to the board, and fourth, it logs everything but the bloody lambda! I should have spent the extra money for a *NEW* LM-1 a long time ago...oh, well. Anyway, Off to the garage to try to get it working. The good news is that watching the lambda change, I can see there is huge room for improvement to the map! EDIT, after either the firmware update, or setting to defaults, or clearing the log, the next log worked like a champ! Next step is to hook up the RPM sensor. I was surprised to find some downhill light throttle action had it running rich. This could be where the hooking up the vacuum to the pressure regulator could pay dividends. Although I am not sure why hooking the vacuum to TBs is any better than mapping.

That is disgusting, pornographic, filfth!

Tank suck is obvious when you hear the whoosh of air that Jason mentioned, and the tank visibly gets wider as the air rushes in. It would not have caused those symptoms that could have been caused by many things. Could be vapor lock, although your aren't experiencing classic symptoms. Make sure fuel lines don't touch hot engine. Or maybe tight valves???? But that would probably have trouble idling. Or a bad relay???? Or other electrical connection. Maybe a bad ignition coil??? Or bad electric petcock, but I think your bike has the manual petcock.

My 2000 owner's manual and my two multilingual workshop manuals, all recommend .10 and .15mm, I assume because of the multi-lingual publication, it was intended for both U.S. and World Spec. Also, my latin language workshop manual also recommends .10/.15mm version info: "Ce document est issu du CD original référence 8CM0015 édition 07/2003. Il est basé sur le manuel d’atelier des V11 référencé 01 92 01 30 édition 03/2001." (probably refers to my other manuals...) For the V11, I don't think there is a "world" spec that is different than a US spec. I think people use such jargon because some pre-1999 Guzzis had tighter US specs. I use .15 and .20mm, just because it is in the middle of what people recommend, and I found that .10/.15mm was sometimes (probably when hot) prone to idle problems.

For the tank and body with the gorgeous candied vampire red, I'd think you'd have to do a silver base and cover it with a few layers of dark transparent red, or some process like that. But for the chops and hooter caps, it looks like a duller faux anodize style finish. I am not sure a candied color is what you want to search for. It is a pretty unusual red. shifting more to orange than magenta compared to most reds. Atleast judging by this photo. http://take-jp.org/guzzi/guzzist/199.jpg I am pretty sure that is not the answer you wanted, and a paint code is what you need....sorry, can't help, but I thought I would waste some bandwidth

There was talk about going to an inline fuel pressure regulator valve, and T-ing it off to the other side Did anyone make progress with that?

Your charging voltage is out of range, but not terrible. Do check the drop in voltage between regulator (red/green wire) and battery while charging. Some drop is normal. You might be getting as much as 14.6 at the regulator, but it may be dropping to 13.7 at the battery. Consider bypassing the line if there is significant voltage drop. But it could be any of the wires, related connections or ground points.

Your charging voltage is out of range, but not terrible. Do check the drop in voltage between regulator (red/green wire) and battery while charging. Some drop is normal. You might be getting as much as 14.6 at the regulator, but it may be dropping to 13.7 at the battery. Consider bypassing the line if there is significant voltage drop. But it could be any of the wires, related connections or ground points.

Americans prefer horrifically sweet sauces on the pork chops and cocaine between the pork chops. But if you can make money smuggling mustard, more power to yah! I guess the Irish are desperate for the stuff, and if it is illegal if it is from France, you could have an excellent market. I suppose if you were in England you could pull up alongside Rolls Royce's and simply ask, "Pardon me, would you have any Grey Poupon?"

Excellent post! One other benefit of dragging a porta-potty is that it adheres to the principal of Pack it in, pack it out.

the wires coming out of the regulator are prone to corrosion where they connect to other wires. As Tom says, especially the Yellow ones, but also take a good look at the others, and look for signs of the wires getting baked and hard. Try cleaning and see if charging voltage goes up. Clean with contact cleaner, like one of Caig's DeOxit products (ask Ratchethack which one to get) http://store.caig.com/ And then apply Silver conductive grease like this stuff http://www.2spi.com/catalog/vac/silver-filled-grease.shtml I picked up the silver stuff at Fry's Electronics, you should be able to find contact cleaner there too. Radio Shack is also a good bet. Autoparts places are not a good bet for either product...WTF?!?

You cheaters are giving Guzzi a bad name! I wonder if I clear my cookies I can vote even more???

yep. Could be bad wiring, or bad regulator or bad alternator. I'd check 30A fuse first, followed by wiring.

Yes, do check the charging system. And at higher revs 3K or 4K you should see over 14.0V, but less than 14.6V The Hawker is different than standard Lead Acid batteries will read 12.84V when fully charged, and stabilized, at 25°C (77°F), instead of 12.65V. A little lower than 12.84V is normal when battery is not new, at some point the votage must be considered tooo low. 12.45 and 12.61 are too low if fully charged.

Send forum member Pierre a PM. He did the same thing with his V1100Sporti The only benefit he mentioned was that he enjoys the added space. I would suggest attaching wires for charging the bike so you won't have to lift the tank to charge the battery. But I really like BFG's idea to squish the battery into the tank to fill the wasted right side. Too bad there is not quite enough room between front wheel and engine to fit the battery. Maybe if was a Lithium or NiMH battery??? EDIT went searching for a Racing Lithium battery and found this, for only $499!!! https://s.p10.hostingprod.com/@www.voltphre...om/ssl/catalog/ Item Specifications Model Number VP550 Nominal voltage 12.8V Cranking Amps (CA) 550 amps Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) 300 amps reserve capacity (RC) 22 minutes Capacity 12Ah terminal type 5/16" gold plated ring working temperature -22°F to 140°F (max 185°F) dimensions 8.3x5x3 inches (not including terminals/flanges) weight 4.25 pounds When Compared to Hawker Odyssey the Lithium battery is lighter, but not smaller....Oh, well... But I suspect a NiMH could be more compact, and maybe somewhere inbetween in price. Hawker Odyssey Manufacturer: Enersys Chemistry: Lead Voltage: 12 Volts Capacity: 12 Amp Hours Dimensions: 6.91" L x 3.28" W x 5.11" H Weight: 10.8 Pound(s)

That is why you should use the space between the porkchops

No way! I just got my O2 sensor in the mail, so lots of fun may be about to start, if this sensor works.

Interesting ideas. I was considering putting my stock air box lid and stock mufflers back, hooking up the WBO2 sensor and log the results at a few different TPS settings. Not sure if it would produce anything interesting. For the most part simply a change of mixture, but the timing does some odd things. Looking for large changes in the columns will provide a clue as to where we might see lean and rich increases. Here is the ignition map http://img123.imageshack.us/my.php?image=tb9ignitionkb5.gif and the fuel map http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/154/lemansmap3mj.gif More importantly, I could also try the Ti map, which has unclear TPS setttings.

But I am not going to recommend the Micha method that ignores the idle balance. (I am pretty sure Micha would agree and some of the steps in his methodology probably just got lost as it made it this forum) The combination of the two in that order seems to be the best instructions that we have. I thought we could do better. Maybe we still can, but the instructions will lose their simplicity. The problem is all the methods can result in "success" with errors, and that is still worth arguing over. The rider does not know something is amiss unless the bike exhibits symptoms. Spotting rich running symptoms is usually more difficult than spotting lean running symptoms. So often people say their bike runs perfectly. Sorry, but perfection of this sort is unobtainable. The engine advance is always a little off perfect, and the mixture is always a little off perfection. But we can make an engine seem to run perfectly, if we get no popping, missing, pinging, surging, etc. But we should be content if get no symptoms.

Maybe I am an idiot, but I suspect that could be a bad idea, resulting in a bike that runs too lean. But then again, because you are getting 42MPG (US) it could be a good idea.

Yes, thanks to Raz's suggestion we should use the 5volt reference, so we have no problem there. Yes, but it could be less of a problem than Tom M.'s being off by 100mV. Something is wrong with the 150mV baseline on some bikes. Maybe it is carbon built up. Maybe it is a variation of ratio of linear cable motion to butterfly motion, between throttle bodies. Maybe it is a variation of ratio of TPS motion to butterfly motion, between throttle bodies of different bikes. Maybe it is bad tolerances. Using WOT as the baseline does not preclude using the lower end of the TPS range for calibration. We would still be targeting 3.5 or maybe even 3.6 degrees at the lower end of the TPS range specifically at idle, but unlike Micha, we would not be tweaking the TPS to match the idle, but rather the idle would be tweaked to match the TPS, as our method does. What is physically happening when the butterfly valve fully closes? Is the edge of the valve digging into the bore of TB? What is happening when the butterfly valve fully opens? Is there some sort of throttle stop at WOT? Right now I can't strongly recommend our method, although I think it is better than anything else including Micha's, and I certainly can't recommend the WOT method until I test it, and maybe get some guinea pigs to test it. Another solution to the dilemma that Mr. Bean and Tom M. experienced is a compromise Do our method, but rather than bumping the idle up 100mV to reach 521mV and getting too high of an idle, I suspect a variation of more than oh, maybe 25mV to obtain the proper idle should require resorting to tweaking the TPS to match the idle rather than tweaking the set screw to the point that Tom did and getting an idle TPS reading of 440mV or 480mV depending on bypass. And still another method would be to start with the 150mV base, and if you can't get 1150RPM at 521mV with 1/2 to one full turn of bypass, then you should check the WOT TPS voltage and it should read 150mV between sweep and +5V. If it does not, then we grab a slide ruler and use the soon to be famous compromise algorithm. Perhaps too complicated for some, but hopefully few will run into the problem that these guys did. Or we can steer them to the Micha method and wish them best of luck. Any other ideas? Sorry if I come across as argumentative, it is not my intent. I simply think we need a better all encompassing solution. And yes, I see some of the holes in every solution I have put on the table.

Good point, we should add a few repeat steps.... IMHO idle balance is especially important for those of us that spend hours per year waiting at the Red for the Green, and for any of us prone to popping while decelerating.