dlaing

That is a tough one. Just so we are clear, 14.7 or higher charging Volts is abnormal. Since you checked connections to starter and battery, do as Brian suggested and swap the starter relay. Be sure neutral light is on and kickstand is up. Rather than holding in clutch then pressing start button, try holding in start button then pull in clutch. (not sure what that would prove, but you may get a feel for possibly bad clutch switch)

I'd rather carry an athletic lady that can push start the bike.

You just compared them Some of us prefer Guzzis to every other mark, so the only way that to get Hayabusa power on a Guzzi is to spend gobs of money. According to dynos I have seen, Bos make excellent power. Assuming the bike is enriched to compensate for the way the aftermarket mufflers breathe, you might get a little better fuel economy with the stock mufflers.

Very interesting! Thanks.

I always figured if they called VW bugs, 'beetles', the Brown Porsche 911 was a 'cockroach'. Now if they only had made it match Valerie's pertty hair Here is some eye candy, Honda 70's colors. http://www.spookytoms.com/CB750-PaintColors.html IMHO much nicer than any other decade.

I suppose I fall into the camp of 'less is more'. Less oil is more room for the pistons to breath. Pete's sheet certainly would not hurt. I am pretty sure if I installed it and kept the oil level low, the consumption would be lower than it is now. But for the anti-sloppage to prevent deprivation, it is pretty clear the oil level needs to more than 3 quarts. There is probably some ideal oil level, a perfect compromise that balances piston breathing room with oil change periodicity. I suppose someone could hook a bike to a dyno, and gradually raise than decrease the oil level to find where the oil level really starts to choke the performance. I am not that ambitious. Can I get no deprivation with 3 quarts if I drop the sloppage tray to at or about the pan gasket? Maybe. I think a better target is a sloppage sheet that prevents deprivation when using 3 to 4 quarts. I choose those numbers assuming the factory picked 3.5 liters for a reason, and that they anticipate the oil level dropping about a liter to about the low mark on the diptick using the higher reading method, so maybe 3 liters is ideal. But this is all just for me, I firmly believe the usual suspects and then some will disagree with me. I think installing Pete's sheet AND raising the oil level from about 3 liters to about 4 liters won't reduce MY oil consumption. Feel free to right me off. Maybe I should instead spend many hundreds of dollars fixing the oil consumption problem. Who knows, doing so may also improve power and fuel efficiency. Compression difference between cylinders is more than 5PSI and less than 10psi, so not bad. The air box has lots of oil collecting in it, so I don't think it is burning the consumed oil other than through recirculation burning. What I really need to do is find a cheap low mileage engine with Mike Rich head work done and the Roper sheet pre-installed. In the meantime, maybe Pete will give me a prototype Moto Moda shloppage sheet to modify?

I probably should find out why it consumes oil, but it does not seem to be getting worse, although it is variable. If I make my own shloppage tray it would probably mount to the bolts that hold the sump on, about 1cm lower than the Roper MotoModa sheet, although I would ideally want it right at the 3.5 liter fill level. Considerations might also be made for going around the plumbing. Next oil change I will stick a camera under the sump to get some ideas. These photos Dan Coronado took of the Ratchethack aided MotoModaTray install are revealing, but I need shots of rearward side.

The broad sump Guzzis, which I believe are all the spine framed Guzzis, have the oil pick up placed so far forward that under hard acceleration, the pickup can become deprived of oil. For evidence, I submit Ryland's testimony regarding oil pressure before and after installation of the sheet: Greg Field and others have also tested it and reached the conclusion that the sheet eliminated their seeing the red light come on. Another contention of debate is what is the proper oil level. Ryland has shown that, at an oil change, if you add the amount oil recommended by Guzzi, the level will be several millimeters higher on the dipstick, than the high level as read by the instructions in the Guzzi manual. Greg Field suggests that the dip stick be read NOT SCREWED IN. Measuring Greg's way jives pretty close to Ryland's measurements. I for one burn too much oil at that level, so I want to design a lower sloppage sheet, yet it may not be easy, and I should probably just order a Pete Roper MotoModa sheet, which will reduce windage and oil consumption.

I'll bet if I was wearing that Dainese solution during my last accident I still would have had a broken shoulder, but if I had been wearing American Football shoulder pads, I probably could have ridden home. An air conditioned grizzly or trojan suit from this guy http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Troy_Hurtubise would surely work better. Still there is potential in the airbag design to reduce neck injury. What triggers the air bag, and where do you store the gas canister? Hopefully the canister won't increase injuries.

Apparently the Canyon Chaser guy rides a Suzuki SV650. Here are another pair of reviews, Conti Sport-Attack and Metzeler M3 http://jocke.selincite.com/bikes/k1200r-sportecm3 This guy likes the M3 much more. DISCLAIMER The SV650 rider is comparing sport touring tires and the BMW rider is comparing Sport Tires. And from what I can tell, they are opinions, just like that of our forum members. I have my first track day coming up at the National Rally and I need Sport tires, so I'll go with M3s. I just have to wear my M1s out by June. (but they always wear out in the center )

Ratchet must have copied and pasted from the website that had an error in the html code. The disclaimer should have read, "results may vary" (with regard to the tires being so perfectly balanced).

Dammmmit! They stole my invention!!!! But I still have a top secret spring loaded version of the invention for onboard metering. (don't tell anyone). Kinda disappointing to see it being problematic. I thought it might be challenging to get the tolerance of the ball to adequately match the tolerance of the tube. gstallons offered good advice by suggesting swapping the tubes. You might also try swapping the balls. Another possibility is that the design needs more damping to stabilize the reading. You may be able to find some adjustable inline valves from a hardware store or Aquarium supply store.

--Dave at http://www.canyonchasers.net/reviews/acces...road-attack.php WTF! Just when I thought I was sold on Metzelers and Pirellis along comes this guys opinion. My latest switch was from Pirelli Strada to Metzeler M1. Both excellent! M1 has better dry traction, and the Strada(cousin to Z6) is superior to the M1 in cold, wet, and mileage. I was going to give the Z6 a try, but the Conti could really be better?!? My last Conti caused a stability problem, so I was not impressed, but I think I must have gotten a rare defective tire. Any other opinions on the Road-Attacks?

Trapped air is not good and Rich Maund's advice is good, but I think the primary cause for short pad life is the pistons are sticking, and should be cleaned. The bleeding process should loosen the pistons, but a good cleaning may be in order. Also, Rich might want to check the bearing spacer. They are known for being too short, causing premature failure. 8000 miles is premature failure for a wheel bearing.

Thanks that is a good explanation. Of course that would not cause the bulb to fail earlier, but it could cause fuse to blow, wires to bake, relays to go bad, etc., right? Probably not Docc's situation at all. I'd still check the output voltage if I were he.

I am happy with a standard washer and a little anti-seize. Loctite is also a fine idea, just be sure to select the right grade, but I prefer anti-seize because the bolts spin out more easily once loosened. As for Schnoors, aren't they a bit brittle and often crack? Also they seem to rust more than other washers. That has been my experience.

I ain't a Mormon, but I guess I could divorce my wife

It is a fair and proper evaluation to compare as such as long as you disclose it as such. It simply is not as complete and valuable of an evaluation as it would be if I wasted time and money setting up the Marz with proper springs and pre-loads, before installing the Marzocchi. I know what springs do for the forks. NO séance required!

What were your oil pressure readings under acceleration before and after Roper Sheet?

What a weird penalty that would be. Where is our grammar policeman? I break the rules at work all the time and regularly exceed 40 hours per week of actual work. It is not prohibited to take a break. Today I am celebrating National Relay to the Rally Day, so I am not at work Yardwork kept me from replying earlier It is a shame you won't be riding with us. Is there something wrong with being truthful, rather than trying to WIN? Speaking of truthful you said, Which may be true, but I doubt anyone followed the pattern you outlined: Slandering the alleged anonymous, Bravo! I made a perfectly fair comparison. And yes, just for giggles, since your grammar is so awesome today, I intend to propose that I was in a "position to make anything close to a fair comparison between the Marz fork that came with your Guzzi and the Ohlis one you replaced it with" Or better yet, for clarity's sake, I'll just make a statement, I replaced my Marz with Ohlins and fairly compared them, and came to the determination that the Ohlins worked vastly better. What I am not is a position to fairly compare is exactly how good the Marz can be, compared to the Ohlins. I only have the FACTS to deal with. A FACT is that the Ohlins out of the box offer superior performance to the Marz. A FACT is that the Ohlins offer a network of service centers that specialize in making them better. A FACT is that the Ohlins use a bigger axle and have more robust clamps at the axle than the Marz. A FACT is that the Ohlins have thicker fork tubes than the Marz that was on my bike.(arguably better) A FACT is that the Ohlins have a superior(arguably) coating on the fork tube(but you could have that added to your Marz) A FACT is that the Ohlins are know for having less static friction at the expense of increased blown seals. A FACT is that Traxxion will reduce the external adjustability of the Marz when they optimize them. A FACT is that a certain forum member was disappointed by the results from the work of one of Traxxion's competitors. I am not sure about unsprung weight. The overall weight of the Ohlins seemed heavier to me. And I still have not had the Ohlins professionally optimized...nor am I even at the ideal spring rate yet that should, if I follow convention, be about 10-15% firmer. (I have been waiting 34 months and 18,000 miles for the seals to blow, as they are alleged to do!!!) If you go from Marz to Ohlins you quickly realize that re-springing and oil alone won't make the Marz match the Ohlins. Divination not required. Head in the sand mastery required to think that the Marz will match the Ohlins from just an Oil and spring change.

Try putting your sidestand up when starting. If it starts, you likely have a bad sidestand relay (actually it is neutral switch relay but manual refers to it as sidestand relay), or a bad neutral switch. If it does not start, let us know and we will go from there.

Can you actually name even two people that did that and referred to the Marz as garbage? I for one, am one of the few on the forum that have "replaced Marz forks with Ohlins without attempting to get the spring rate on the Marz fork matched to load in the first place," and concluded that I got a much better ride that would not be matched by spring and oil change alone in the Marzocchi. Sure, the Marzocchi could be sent to Traxxion and many dollars later return with some of the adjustability disabled, but you'd have a better than stock setup. I'd like to ride a bike that is set up like that, back to back against the Ohlins. My money is on the Ohlins being much more comfortable, and if set up right the Ohlins will be every bit as controlled. But I am pretty sure I never referred to the Marzocchi forks as garbage. Heck, garbage has no value worth bothering with and I'd bother to eBay my used Marzocchi forks for no less than $300, so it does not quite qualify as garbage. In the mean time, I save the Marz forks in case I destroy the Ohlins, but if someone wants to trade them for an over-powering Stucchi crossover or an under-powering QuatD, its a deal!

It is not a matter of stupidity. There are advantages to each daylight headlight method of usage. No headlight allows drivers pulling out into to traffic to have the best sense of how fast you are traveling, but the careless and the blind have little chance see you before you T-bone them or more likely dodge them with horn blaring. Low beam headlight allows drivers pulling out into to traffic to have an OK, but not great sense of how fast you are traveling, but some of the careless and the blind won't see you before you T-bone them or dodge them hand gesture extended. A modulating headlight allows drivers pulling out into to traffic some sense but not a good sense of how fast you are traveling, but the flicker can hypnotize them and make them do stupid things, but only the most careless and the blind won't see you before you T-bone them or whatever.... High beam headlight allows drivers pulling out into to traffic to have little sense of how fast you are traveling, and only the very most careless and the blind won't see you before you T-bone them or dodge them with foul language echoing in your helmet. I think a three light set up is more ideal, especially if they are different colors. For example an HID headlight with a pair of amber driving lights would be ideal, and it helps identify you as a motorcycle, as oppose to a UFO. I prefer the low beam in dark cloudy weather, when traveling on the freeway where they are not going to pull out in front of you from a stop, but rather merge into you, and on calm city streets. In the bright desert a high beam sticks out better. A high beam on seems to be more effective when going quickly on a winding road where you come across interchanges too fast to stop for T-bone bait. (Yes, you should not be going that fast, but we all do.) Also, I like the high beam on when lane splitting as you usually get the attention of a few more people to give you room. Yah, you might think some of those ideas are stupid....whatever.

Oh, you have relays in the bucket. Excellent! that should be helping deliver more volts to the bulb. My point about your GEI relays failing was not that the failing relay would cause the bulb to fail, but that bad connections or a voltage regulator that was not properly regulating caused the pre-mature failure of both the bulbs and the relays. I don't really understand how bad connections cause an increase in amperage, but apparently they can. Be sure to check your 30A charging system fuse for signs of melting, and make sure your maximum voltage at the battery with engine revvvvvved does not exceed 14.6V. The Omrons should be perfectly suitable for inside the bucket. The big ones may be a little too close to the heat of the reflector. The Omrons are the better choice for the bucket in my opinion. You don't need a 30A rating. A 20A rated relay may actually last longer due to the self cleaning action of moderate amperage. But it is probably not worth the headache of changing to if you made a harness with sockets to only fit the larger relays. If they are simply connected with individual blade sockets, I say go for the Omrons. Who knows, they may even extend the life of your bulbs and they should last longer than your average brand, and you may be saving half a watt of energy as the Omrons likely use less energy than the 30A relays!!!!

Could be a clue as to why your GEI relay died. Or not. You probably already know not to touch the bulb with your hands when installing and if you do touch, but sure to clean/degrease any skin oil from the bulb. My OEM bulb is going strong at about 45K miles. The internet has much discussion of the short life of Sylvania Silver Stars, so the short live you experienced could be normal. I am still waiting for a pair of cheap, efficient HID or LED driving lights.