dlaing

http://www.nationalguzzirelay.com/ Sign up soon for the relay, coming to city near you. Leaves LA, San Diego bound tomorrow, and then Arizona on Sunday, and then New Mexico or Texas, and then who knows where. Fund raiser also open for donations at the relay website: http://www.nationalguzzirelay.com/

My money is on the 12 way connector under the tank. The four way connector is better sealed. If it was the switch, wiggling it would likely activate it, unless it has been dead for a long time. But yah, it could be the switch... In any case, a good time to add lighting relays to bypass the load away from the switch(es), away from the starter relay, and provide better light.

Someone recently had a Centauro on Craigslist for $4000. I considered robbing a bank, but the image of prison rather than riding my V11 held me back. I think I'll start saving up for a second hand Stelvio

Glad to hear it! FWIW Paul's bike is 1200cc/ 110Hp/ 122Nm Yah a 165HP V11BigBore could certainly be harder on the drive train, if you actually use all that power. Oh yah, my other complaint about the BigBore kit is the ugly radiator. Retrofitting something from a different bike could look better or maybe hiding them behind plastic. The 125HP V11BigBore would be satisfying enough, and I am sure Paul's bike would have all the power I need, so going the route of a multi-valve air cooled 1200cc is another option. His website show's his friend, Huite's 133HP dynotec bike that is more power than I would regularly use. Dynotec can build the multivalve Guzzi up even more than that. The new production quatrovalvoles probably have even more potential!

Guzziology Author Dave Richardson wrote this review of the V11. http://www.mgnoc.com/article_ask_the_wrench.html Pretty sure that is what you read. He says some stuff about it having 2 instead of three layshafts with the primary reduction after the shiftable gears, putting less torque on those gears, which allows the pre-primary-gears to be narrower, and thus lighter, allowing for easier shifting!!!! He also discusses how the design indicates the gear box and bevel drive can handle more powerful engines. If you forgot some of the reasons why you love your V11, go read his insightful review, or just go read it anyway. Keep in mind he wrote this before the tranny recall, which was apparently a gear material issue, not a design flaw.

I am concerned about those too, just more concerned about the other two things. I should put my concern on crashing above the initial investment cost. I would not ride like Guareshci, so the bike would rarely see WOT. The torque load will be higher, and I would expect the clutch would take the brunt of that. I am not too worried about the six speed. I think they designed it to endure a lot more power, or at least the Guzziology author suggested that. But how much more, I cannot say. I think all my blown shifts have done more damage to it, then a more powerful engine would. But I am just guessing as nobody has tested a V11 gearbox with that much power, although Paul M has been riding his six speed bored out Quatrovalvole for quite a while. Maybe he can chime in regarding how much it has damaged the six speed.

So, you are not interested in the best of both worlds with a 125-165HP Big Bore Guzzi? My biggest concern (aside from the money to buy and install the kit) would be grabbing too much throttle coming out of turns.

Did you measure the squish and set it to the alleged optimum 0.030" or close to it? Greg Field said Stock Squish is often 2-3mm (~0.08-0.12") If you have many miles on the cylinders, isn't milling the top of the cylinder or the head may be necessary to keep the rings sweeping over the same cylinder area and not having to sweep into virgin territory?

No, I was agreeing with his guess that the downloaded maps were done by people who were not careful enough to set the TPS to 150mV ±5mV. But that came across as bad advice and you are correct that the TPS should be set to the correct value and the map made to work better, rather than trying to match incorrect TPS settings so that the map works, if even possible.

1) Sorry, I should not suggest changing the TPS from 150mV. Even if it fixes the problem, it is not the best way to fix it. I disagree with those that are sure the map was created with the TPS set properly, but regardless, tuning it wrong to match another wrong tuning is not the best idea, even it works. However if you are willing to experiment, and you determined the bike ran great at 170mV we could mark that map off as probably being done with the wrong TPS, although other factors may be at play. 2)Sorry, I should not have said zero the map, I should have said zero the throttle. I must have been tired when I posted that...sorry. With throttle closed, hook up the bike to the computer and run the PCIII software. Go to upper menu bar and look under the category, "Power Commander Tools" and go down and click "Set Throttle Position" This will open up a window where you can set the throttle position to the idle or closed position, and the Open or WOT position. Use the arrows to change the numbers so that the throttle reads 0% when closed and 100% when opened. I recommend viewing the how to tutorial for the PCIII. In the tutorial it says to do it with the engine running, but I don't think that is necessary, especially for WOT or Open throttle position. I think I set it with the engine not running. Anybody have better knowledge of whether the engine needs to be running? They say, " The throttle then needs to be opened fully. This can be done with the bike running. If the throttle is quickly rolled to the stop and then immediately roll off the bike will not rev more that a 2,000 or 3,000 rpm." The closed throttle setting is more critical and easy to set, so if you are uncomfortable setting the Open setting, don't bother if is within 5% of 100%. Check out the how to set the throttle tutorial here: http://www.powercommander.com/powercommand..._downloads.aspx

You might consider this footpeg and control relocation kit www.motratech.com Putting the feet forward helps keep the weight off the hands. Also, try relaxing your grip a bit (not so much you'll fall off the bike!!!) Since you are getting back into riding, it is a good time to learn good habits. A riding school is a good idea. Others here can give good advice, like Skeeve's quasi-medical advice Your posture will certainly effect wrist fatigue. You might also need to balance the throttle bodies regularly to help minimize vibration. You'll get used to it. But start with some 100 mile rides before you do a 500 mile ride. Are throttlemeisters available for those bars?

I think it could be the TPS setting. The original map would have to have been done with the TPS pretty far out of whack, but it is possible. You could try setting it maybe 20mV high or low and see how it responds. Did you zero out the map using the PCIII software when you installed it? That could be the problem if you did not. Otherwise, you should be able to merge the maps. You know where each misbehaves and behaves, so just merge the good behavior zones. It is kind of tedious, but it should give you good results. But not as good as the results you will get if you go for a custom tuning link map at the dyno, as GuzziJon recommended.

I just took a look at the PDF brochure at Metzler and noticed they have recommended maximum AND Minimum tire pressures. For example with the M3 M1 Z6 and maybe all their tires that fit our bike, they list 32/42 for the front and 36/42 for the rear. And somewhat surprisingly, they say:

His website may give a clue who done it. http://teamsubtlecrowbar.pitpilot.com/sponsors/index.htm Maybe the performance induction guy????

Sorry.

Here is an excellent oil that meets SG http://www.maximausa.com/products/4stroke/maxum4ultra5.asp but it is pricey. I just noticed that Repsol I am using is SJ

In SoCal there don't seem to be many options. Todd Eagan is a good bet, as is Sean Fader at Guzzi Classics. You should talk to Pierre (v1100Sporti) and Bill Ross (LSR pursuer on Tontis) about some of their mods. The popular solution seems to be to send the heads to Mike Rich for porting. If you get some Carrillo rods and Mike Rich pistons, I am sure Guzzi Classics could install them, get the engine balanced and the squish set. But those are pretty serious mods. You have already exhausted all the cheap power upgrades. The cheapest next upgrade could be to set the squish, and the next cheapest would be the Mike Rich Pistons, and then the next cheapest will be porting, but anything you do will send you back to the dyno for custom mapping. Is there anyone in SoCal good at porting Guzzis???? If so, that could be an option, as sending them off to Mike Rich will leave you Guzziless for months. Some go with aftermarket cams, but the the cam in the V11 spines is not bad and some simply move the power from low rpm to high rpm. Or you can do what MacGuzzi suggests and get a Japanese 4 cylinder :lol:

Thanks for the advice, but no thanks. Since I want more ponies I'll keep my Guzzi and open up the airbox (done), get a pair of Mistral mufflers (done), PCIII downloaded map (done), Roper windage tray(some say they think they get more power using one!!!), Stucchi crossover (still dreaming, although a exbox is really what I want, but I don't want to sacrifice ponies), Mike Rich porting, Carrillo Rods, Mike Rich pistons, balance the engine, and a custom map, and then I think I would be at the point of not wanting more ponies enough to consider further upgrades, but I would still dream of that Big Bore V11, not that I would know what to do with that much power...

It was a typo. Sorry. The 165HP BigBore V11 has enough power to go over 185MPH, but we would need some body work, and yes something would have to done about the gear ratio, and it would not be an inexpensive solution. I thought it had something to do with CC classes. But otherwise, good point. Of course with enough money, one could find a solution to the gearing, right? I am addressing a question of what is possible, not what is wise economically. But then it is not stock. No I am not pimping Guzzis under 1225cc to keep up with the Hayabusa. What gave you that idea? For the purpose of keeping up with stock Hayabusas on a Sunday afternoon on the roads of SoCal, I am pimping a 1420cc BigBore kit and a bunch of other mods to make it handle and brake better than a stock 2007 and earlier Hayabusa. http://www.bigbore.it/index.html In case you did read what I wrote earlier, they apparently have this kit designed to range in power from 125 to 165 HP. Adjusting Guzzi valves is such a joy, I do it twice as often as the manual recommends!!! This hole argument was triggered by people saying hyperbike performance is impossible for our bikes. I say nonsense! With enough money it can be done, and essentially has been done on Guaro's Big Bore MGS01, and can be done with a little more weight on our bikes. For my riding skills, if I were to ride between my house and Mount Palomar, I'd get there in about the same time. The Hayabusa might make better time on the straights, but elsewhere my properly sprung bike with better ergonomics will do better in the twisties, despite the boat anchor bevel drive. Maybe I would be sooo bored by the Hayabusa that I would push it faster, but that is the only reason it will get there faster. A rider with better skills and more insanity could surely make better use of the Hayabusa and not be as bothered by the non-custom suspension of the Stock Hayabusa and arrive sooner, but that is not how I ride because I want to live. If I did want to ride that fast, I would more seriously consider the BigBore kit and investing in track school.

I don't know if you can still call it a V11 engine after installing the Big Bore kit, but take a look at the the dyno chart of their 125cv motor. No lack of low end and mid-range there. Compared to the Hayabusa the Big Bore 125CV kit has better low and mid range. The 140HP and 165HP engines probably have peakier cam or tuning, or maybe not???? I'd be completely content with the 125CV kit. I overlayed the dynos from http://www.bigbore.it/ and http://www.sportrider.com/bikes/sportbike_.../photo_108.html assuming that the HP would match. Obviously different dynos, different days. The real question is well the 165HP kit produce as much low end as the 125HP kit. http://www.sportrider.com/bikes/sportbike_.../photo_108.html Take a 2008 Hayabusa or a modified Hayabusa and all bets are off. Also keep in mind the Hayabusa is regulated to I believe 185HP, while the Guzzi is not. Your average rider on a Big Bore V11 on your average road will have no problem keeping up with the early stock Hayabusa, even with only the 125cv kit. Yah if you hit a wide open straight, the Hayabusa will take the lead, assuming you are crazy enough to go that fast on the street. But install the 165HP kit and then the Guzzi will pass the speed governed Hayabusa in the long straights. For my level of expertise, on most roads, I will be only seconds ahead using 165HP rather than 125HP assuming all being equal. But the ultimate big bore guzzi will have other advantages over the Hayabusa such as Ohlins suspension and lighter weight. An expert, or suicidal rider might be able to take greater advantage of that extra 40HP, but they can also take advantage of the superior brakes and suspension that the Guzzi could be equipped with. Remember we are comparing a stock 2007 or earlier Hayabusa with what the V11 could be if money were no object. We could hire Valentino Rossi's suspension expert, frame bracing, carbon fiber wheels, ceramic bearings, ceramic brakes, titanium rear sub-frame, titanium everywhere, lighter battery, lighter starter with gear reduction, etc. Weight of bike could be an easy 20 to maybe 50 lbs lighter than the Hayabusa. The only draw back I see is the heavy bevel box .

I looked up more info on Guareschi's Guzzi. It is allegedly 165HP!!! and if my terrible understanding of Italian is correct, 188kg

Very Nice! When I win the lotto maybe I'll fund you to ride a "Big Bore" Guzzi in BOT F1 You know those darn results PDFs have you down for 2nd and 8th place I remember last year there were lots of mistakes like that. I was congratulating Ed Milich for a first place when he placed something like third place. But it is all good, as it is more about the fun than the pride of who is number one. Congrats! You make me proud to ride a Guzzi!

Are you losing it dude?

We have been through this shit many times. The evidence is the victories in the BOT, the BigBore website, and this email response from them: Of course it ALL could be a LIE!!!! No Guzzi victories! The website is a shell!! The email is a con to get me to send them money!!! But that is nonsense. And we go on and on about this because you are too stubborn to admit that a V11 can be built up to the performance level of a stock hyperbike, like the 2006 or 2007 Haybusa. The 2008 would be really tough to match. Yes, the V11 would have less than half its parts remaining, and it might cost $50000US versus $12000 for a Hayabusa. My only point is that it can be done. Not that it should be done or will be done on a road bike. For comparison, here is a Quatrovalvole based Guzzilla http://www.dynotec.de/presse.php?id=9 158HP 105lb-ft 168kg 25,000 to 45,000 Euro I don't see any reason why one could not take a V11, give it GP suspension, wheels, brakes, a lighter swing arm, lighter rear sub-frame and end up with 140HP (there website says 125CV, I guess the 140HP is the Guarro version) Maximum torque: 13,5 mkg @ 5750 RPM 210kg dry Yes most of the parts are changed, but the engine case remains the same, so it remains a V11, although you could rename it a V14. It is almost but not completely a whole new engine, and the water cooling front pump section fits the V11 frame. They don't say what exactly gets retained, but it seems to only be the case. You never said it can't be bored out or converted to water cooling when I asked. The way I see it you have the VIN on the frame and the engine number remaining the same, as well as the body work(optionally) it is still a V11. I have asked you before where you draw the line. Now you will probably draw it at the Big Bore not being an acceptable modification to the engine because it is too complete of a modification. Whatever. All I know is that if I get the money, I'll go for the BigBore kit, or maybe a Guzzitech supercharger....Although buying an unobtainable Stelvio may satisfy me enough. http://www.bigbore.it/

compared to Notice both statements have the "if" clause Yet you reply, I am no more suggesting that you purchased the wrong motorcycle, than you are suggesting that ALdad purchased the wrong motorcycle. Now do you understand? You SEEM to think it is ok for you to say what you did to ALdad but you SEEM to get defensive if I say what I did to you despite the fact that what I said was only exactly as un-rude as what you said. I need to get out and ride rather than deal with this shit!