dlaing

Are the rod bearings made of copper or something copperishy like?

Is that the ol' "I shot the Sheriff(in self defense), but I did not shoot the deputy" plea? They'll still hang him high! I wonder if the young man hit redline downshifting? The electronic protection is not going to help much in that case!

Could be related, but they are on a different fuse circuit, so not likely. I'd look for a short in the tail lamp. The positive contacts could have been bent to the point of shorting. Not sure where else the short would likely be. I thought a couple people mentioned a couple months ago, pinched wires between fender and taillight, behind the fender plastic. Hopefully this was just a bad fuse.

Damn Democrat, Union card carrying, pollyanna Cops!

Here is a photo, note this photo was taken in the connected state... Raz, is the screw you are talking about is the one with yellow paint on it? I usually loosen the nut on the cable(right side of image), but this looks like a better way to go!!! You should see a gap when the "choke" is properly disconnected. Note this photo gives a good shot of the Air Bypass Screw (upper left of image).

Bump! From what Greg said in the above quote, 2.9 is what you should use, but since it does not seem to be working some time consuming experimentation may be in order. Unless Greg has more info... I tried loading the Ti map using my Tuneboy, but it ran lousy at low rpms. If you ever find the right TPS setting, let me know! If you are only getting an idle of 1100 rpm at 3.8 TPS, I'd suspect that either your 150mV setting is off, or your valve adjusters are too tight. How many turns out are the air bypass screws? If the TPS is 150mV disconnected and the valves are set to .15/.20mm or looser, than you either need a pro, or some experimentation. Since the idle is too low at the recommended 2.9, try lowering the TPS disconnected from 150mV to 125mV, back the air bypass screws out one full turn, and then set the idle to 1100rpm. This will probably result in an idle TPS close to what our instructions recommend for the non-Ti ECU, 3.5 or 521mV. If it runs worse try completely closing the air bypass screws and increasing the idle TPS until you get an 1100RPM idle, this may give a very high idle TPS reading, but if it works, who cares. Experiment with the disconnected TPS setting, but I would not go below 100mV. As always, make sure that when reading the TPS disconnected that the "choke" cam is visibly not making contact and that the right side idle set screw is not making contact. I would not be surprise if you find that the TPS is set above 150mV. To save time, you could try measuring the TPS at WOT. It should read about 4.86V, so if it reads above 4.89V or below 4.83V there is a good chance the disconnect TPS reading is not set to 150mV. Note, The volt meter is not as accurate in the V range as it is in the mV range, otherwise we could say to make sure it is between 4.85V and 4.87V. If your volt meter only reads to a tenth of a volt, like 4.8V or 4.9V that won't be accurate enough to be at all meaningful, but if it reads 5.0 or higher, I would surely double check the disconnected TPS reading. I only mention measuring at WOT because it can save you time. Please be aware that it is not nearly as accurate.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/Motorcycle-new...ia-earplugs.htm hmmm? after reading it, I guess I am still in violation of the law when I wear my non-foam swimmers style earplugs.

Or a laugh for the Darwin award as the thief crashes

Is that a laugh or a smilie ? I suppose it does have an element of humor to it, but I seriously think it is a good idea, but not as a loaner bike, especially to the hard of hearing. I should get around to implementing it before I end up crashing... I am so glad California stopped ticketing motorcyclists for ear plugs. It was a stupid law that probably resulted in more deaf people on the road #%$##$#!!!!!

If there is a hole in the torque curve there is a hole in the power curve. The Curve Lofgren outline represents the torque OR HorsePower at WOT. They are essentially the same, only differing by a multiplier that changes with RPM. One minute you are saying that all you have to do is twist the throttle a little more, and the next minute you are spending hundreds of dollars so you don't have to twist the throttle a little more. I guess it is a sign there is hope for you. Does it level out the hole that you feel at partial throttle? That must be what you are after. I have never been bothered by the hole at partial throttle, but I always wanted more Power in the hole at 4000 rpm in the WOT power curve. I think we all like how the Stucchi increases the WOT horse POWER in the mid-range as Doug Lofgren showed. But if the torque at WOT isn't what you were after, I guess you aren't a hypocrite, nor absurd, but you just have very different values than I do. Listen here, I no sooner informed you that you bought the wrong motorcycle, than you informed ALDad that he bought the wrong motorcycle!!!!! You sure do like to exaggerate. I don't think I am the one that came up with the term Hayabusa eater. I just said that by building up the V11 so that it performs like Guareshi's Battle of the Twins winner, it can keep up with a stock (2007) Hayabusa on some roads. Yes, the longevity of certain parts will be reduced when the V11 is putting out 140++HP using the BIG BORE kit. Yes the Hayabusa will have PEAK HP advantage at high RPM, but the Guzzi has more low end power. Ohlins and Penske suspension custom tuned to the rider could give an advantage to the Guzzi over the out of the box Hayabusa. FWIW they both weigh about the same, so shedding some weight on the V11 could also give it an advantage. The bevel box is about the only handicap a $50,000 V11 would face. "Impossible" you said. Simply evidence of how small your world is. No wonder you think I am out there. But repeating your purply galactic crap is rude and unappreciated.

The oil pressure sensors are not very good at lighting up the oil warning light during dangerously low oil pressures, so you may be doing damage without knowing it. Risk is increased, and failure is likely, by running the oil level low, popping wheelies, and doing long hard accelerations up hill especially in lower gears. If you ride only on flat lands, never see WOT (wide open throttle), keep the front wheel on the ground, and keep your oil level up, it is not necessary. But almost nobody fits that description, so I believe it is a very good idea to get a shloppage shleet, and certainly a necessity for those that pop wheelies or accelerate hard up hills.

So, giving up your power modification is so absurd that this is your response, while someone going just a little further in the quest for power leaves the orbit of your tiny little universe of closed minded ideas. Do you sense any hypocrisy in your ways? Or are you just a troll getting a kick out of annoying people? Or do you simply have the writing skills akin to the finesse of fisherman that uses dynamite to fetch his dinner? Nobody here disagrees with you that a reality check is in order when pursuing more power, and that a ratio of diminishing returns is quickly reached. The problem is with attack method, and your hypocrisy, as has clearly been pointed out.

Another option is to rig it so that if the stand is down and the bike is in gear, the engine does not shut down, but the horn honks. The advantage is that you are less likely to get stuck with the engine not running because of a faulty side stand switch, and you would not be inconvenienced by the engine stalling, just the annoyance of the horn blaring at 5AM. Of course someone borrowing your bike may not understand why the horn is blaring, and may simply crash the bike. If it was a motorcycle thief, this could be a good thing.

1) Yes, turn the right idle screw left, until it no longer effects the butterfly valve. Some permanently remove the right side idle screw. 2) IF the idle is too high when the TPS is set to 521mV and the air bypass screws are out less than half a turn, THEN turn the left idle screw out counter-clockwise (left) to reduce the TPS voltage reading in steps of 15mV. You should turn the left idle screw counter-clockwise (left) enough to reduce the idle to less than 1200rpms and basically disregard the recommended 521mV. Turning the left idle screw left or counter-clockwise will lower the TPS voltage reading at idle. But beware that if you must set it below 500mV, there is a good chance it was not properly set to 150mV and you should double check your work, making sure right idle screw and choke are not preventing butterfly valve from fully closing. Another possibility is that the idle could be too low without a couple turns out of air bypass. If two full turns out of the air bypass screws don't provide 1100RPMs or more idle, I believe it will be necessary to turn the left idle screw in clockwise (right) until the idle reaches 1100RPMs. Keep in mind that if the idle is too low it may indicate something else is wrong, such as valves being out of adjustment. Does that make sense?

It is silly for you to have so much power. Please sell your Stucchi crossover to me. I'll give you $300!!!!! What other mods have you done! BMC air filter that lets even more dirt into the engine than the perfectly good paper filter. Lidless airbox? Or did you give up on that because it gave you too much noise and so much power that it threatened to shorten the life of your engine???? Are you still using stock mufflers or did you threaten the life of your engine even more with HIGH HP mufflers???? Enquiring minds need to know. Obviously whatever mods you do is fine, while anything more is in the realm of "whatever floats your boat" commentary. Heck you have done more mods for power than I have, but you repeatedly attack me.

Back out the idle screw means to loosen it so much that it has no effect on the throttle, so that the butterfly valve will fully close, unrestricted by the idle screw. Beware the choke can also restrict the valve fully closing, so it too must be loosened.

Thanks Guys! I had talked to a Pirelli rep and he recommended that method. But I could not recall what percentage he said to use. I thought he said ten percent, which considering we were strictly discussing tire mileage, was probably what he said. In SoCal heat is a big factor for tire life which might explain why Ratchet would recommend ten percent. I'll have to give that method a try again. I suppose one draw back of the method is that the flexing factor must change with the life of the tire. Towards the end of its life it should need more pressure to keep cool. And there are probably other variables. Still it is a good test.

For your information buddy, my signature is not a wish list.... fork switched to Ohlins...simply awesome! shock Penske....also, awesome! wheels....too expensive at this point. wheel bearings...all replaced with SKF before I knew about the ceramic bearings. wheel spacers...replaced with much lighter than stock alloy, and so far the bearings are holding up dandy against them, while the stock bearings were not. spindles...front is a hollow axle to match the Ohlins, lighter and more rigid, works grrrreat! throttle bodies....did I ever suggest that? At one point I certainly wondered if carbs would be better. cush drive...I drilled some of the rubbers at your advice and noticed no difference. rear subframe....I need to take a welding class all fasteners...Anyone know where to get a titanium rear axle? spine frame...I am pretty content with it, but it could use some bracing. No doubt the Ghezzi-Brian has a better frame. swingarm.... I really like what Paul M. did!!!! But no way am I that ambitious. engine (I b’lieve the Big Bore replacement motor, which contains NO V11 parts, should get special note!)...show me the money, and I'll order it. exhaust system....I want to make something like the Quat-D but with dual outlets, but I am lacking the ambition as the Mistrals work well enough for now. handlebars...Convertibars with longer brake lines for more rise. brakes...four pad brembos up front....much nicer, but I need better rotors to take full advantage. electrics...electrexUSA regulator, Odyssey battery, GEI relays, relays for headlight. All fine improvements! brake levers.... Pazzo. Give about a millimeter more draw, but mostly there because they look nice and stock needed replacement. seat....Corbin, doubles comfort range, but I slide to far forward when braking, going down hill, etc. Redoing the rear subframe might be the solution, of visiting Corbin for a custom fitting.... What have you done to your bike. I'll give you $300 for your Stucchi cross-over. What a mistake it must of been for you to waste hundreds of dollars only to obtain a few ponies in the mid-range and a few dbs to annoy your neigbors. Please sell it to me!!! What other mods did you do? Knee pads on the gas tank. Wilbers shock. Throttle wheel to ease the stress on your weak wrist. What else?

He isn't going to answer, is he?

More studies in parallax.... Did FBF change the shape to improve squish and or flame front? Assuming compression ratio remains the same, it looks like the squish area may be closer to the head, for improved squish at the outer perimeter in a "drop in" solution, so less need to mill the heads or cylinder. Of course if the compression ratio is less than before the squish may be worse, but the flame front may be improved. Still very different than the Mike Rich approach of filling in the squish area at about 1cm from the perimeter. Old image above compared to new image below

Hey Commodore Road Geeze, What HP numbers give you that "kinda orgasmic transcendental astral projection experience"? I submit that if you're a graduate of the "less is better" school, (the school taught by old man living on mountain tops and Professors of Eastern religions), you've purchased the wrong motorcycle. Maybe you should get a Ural or a Honda Rebel???

Dang that tensioner stretches out! I suppose Valtek knows what they are doing, but I trust Ganzo's design more!!! True it is more work to drill and tap a hole, but only a few minutes more work.

I usually run somewhere between what Mandello recommends for some jockey two thirds my weight and the maximum recommended, embossed(or whatever the correct term is) on the side of the tires, but much closer to the Mandello recommendations. Guzzi recommends 35 psi front and 36 psi rear solo at extended high speeds, which I often ride. The M1s on my bike say maximum pressure 42PSI at a maximum load of 520 pounds front and 716 pounds rear. Since I weigh about 250 pounds with gear, that probably makes me 100 pounds heavier than what Guzzi had in mind, so instead of maybe 250+50=300 pounds on the front tire and oh maybe 300+100=400 pounds rear, we need to add another 100 pounds and get somthing like 333 front and 466 rear. 520 - 300 = 220 while 520 - 333 = 253 so if 42psi - 35psi = 7psi we could divide 220 by 33 and get 6.67 which is pretty close to 7psi, so I need roughly one more PSI than what Guzzi recommends on the front. Of course this is making many assumptions such as the infamous alleged 150 pound jockey with 50 pounds over front wheel and 100 pounds over rear wheel and the Guzzi weighing 250 pounds front and 300 pounds rear (I recall Ratchet has real numbers) On the rear 716 - 400 = 316 while 716 - 366 = 350 316 divided by 66 = 4.8 and since 42 - 36 = 6psi we can divide 6 by 4.8 and get 1.25 so the rear should be increased by 1.25 psi. Inconsequential for lighter riders like Ratchet, but some of us might weigh 350 pounds in leather, so they might be better with 2 more psi front and 2.5 psi rear Again, the math is very rough and will certainly vary by tire model. There are better ways to set tire pressure, involving measuring the effects of how riding increased temperature and pressure on the tires and using subjective analysis to look at factors such as how the bike handles and how it grips, but I have never nailed down that method. Now that I have analyzed(over-analyzed?) it, I realize that the 36 front 38 rear that I settled on should be more like 36 front and just over 37 rear. But I guess that makes me somewhat better prepared for the rare passenger. Another issue is that I have an assortment of gauges that vary in reading by about 4 or 5 psi. I tend to go with the more expensive gauges which seem to read lower, so if my cheap gauges are correct I could be at 42PSI I ain't too worried about it. I think there is a pretty wide range of acceptable pressure, but would not push the bike if the pressure were not well set. Keep in mind that the bike's maximum load is lower than the tire's 48kg 106# front and 166kg 365# rear, so if your pillon is too heavy, make them hitch a ride. I do like lower tire pressures for cool or wet conditions. I have heard some suggest higher pressures are better for rain, but I don't think so. Any ideas on that? Reduced chance of hydro-planing???

When do we get to stop calling it a ditch pump motor? The multi-valve design is certainly a step away, but perhaps we don't want to lose the descriptive term, as it separates us from the plethora of 600cc fours that are so often on the side of the freeway being written up for too much freedom of expression.

Of course you have no evidence of this. The best Ratchet could come up with is an explation for why odd numbers of cylinders are used on four stroke radials. Thanks, I did not know that there were vibration issues with even numbered radials. Googling for "four cylinder radial engine" comes up with a few hits, mostly patents and other bull, but these two seem to support my contention that you can refer to it as a radial four: "For 15 years his company, Zoche Aero-Diesels, has been developing two engine versions, the ZO 01A, an 84kg, 150hp four-cylinder radial engine with 2.66 litre cc and two-stage charging....snip" http://www.aerokurier.rotor.com/AKHEFT/Akh0012/Aeh0012e.htm "32 hp Konig SD 570 four-cylinder radial engine" http://www.britishaircraft.co.uk/aircraftpage.php?ID=790 I would however draw a line at three cylinders being the fewest number of cylinders to define a radial engine.