dlaing

The link to the second file at www.v11lemans.com/uploads/NavigatorTXBUSA.zip does not seem to work.

Some may call it longitudual-X quad, but I prefer the "pedantic" transverse X-quad, or maybe transverse radial four. While this engine has a simplistic beauty to it, there are some draw backs like a high center of gravity and a challenge to have even cylinder lubrication. If it is reverse rotating crank, all the better, and the uneven lubrication can probably be dealt with well enough. I imagine it is a pretty smooth. Still I would rather have a long legged transversal-V 8 or (less?) pedantically a longitudual V-8 sport touring shafty. Clearly a transversal V-8 would be better on the race track. It is a shame Guzzi has not had the money to bring the V-8 back to MotoGP.

The dyno graphs that have been posted on this forum indicated that the bikes with the front crossover have less dip, when completely stock. Yes, there could be other reasons for this like the alleged higher compression, but my money is on crossovers smoothing out the hole. There are other ways to smooth out the hole. You could get a QuatD, a Stucchi crossover or a Mistral crossover. Once you do, the benefits that the Guzzi engineers very likely obtained through the front crossover, may very well be gone. IMHO the Guzzi engineers got it right, if the objective is no hole in the torque curve, decent power, and legal pollution(mostly noise) emissions. Once you put on an aftermarket crossover the benefits may very well be gone.

I suspect Dr. Gil owes you a beer

TUZING? http://cs.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tuning What makes you feel like a man, or more importantly, what makes you value feeling like a man? I see many reasons why one might modify mufflers: To get more music. To get more power. To get more music/noise while still retaining a stock/legal look. To get more music/noise/power while still retaining money in your wallet.

Here is a short list of way to fight it, in the order that I would suggest most people use to fight it: 1 check TPS setting. If not between 500 and 550 mV at 1100 - 1200 rpm idle, it is most likely the problem. Even if it is within range, the tps setting still could be off at the fully detached setting. Solution is to adjust valves, replace and gap spark plug, adjust TPS, set idle, and balance throttle bodies. 2 enrichen with a PCIII 3 retard timing with Direct Link or TuneBoy (or Cliff's MY15M)(For a few of us tuning the ECU directly is a better solution than a PCIII, but for most people a PCIII is a better solution because it is cheap and easy to do custom maps) 4 mill the heads to increase squish (not sure this will actually help much as the compression ratio will rise nearly as fast as the squish increases) 5 install Mike Rich pistons which increase squish in a non-standard way (also, not sure how much this will help)

Since you bought the PCIII from Todd, I am sure he will hook you up with the right maps. Just email him all the details and he can make you a map for track and a map for touring. No need to compromise! Of course nothing will beat a custom map tuned to your bike, but Todd has the best selection of maps, and know-how to make them work.

Sorry, I thought you were disagreeing with me. EDIT OOOoooops, Sorry, I was wrong again. You were quoting Dan, and the quotes weren't placed right, ( a missing bracket...) but still my fault for careless reading. I am in full agreement with your post.

As usual, I am in disagreement with Ratchet, Dan, and Docc. You will be pleasantly rewarded when you make the adjustment and you obtain better than "normal" performance But do be very careful and patient as it can be confusing and frustrating if the adjuster is too far out. Understanding what is happening is key. The adjuster is simply a cam that sets the bias of the springs centering the shifter. Too much one way and upshifts are blown. Too much the other and downshifts are blown. Rotate it 360 degrees and you are back where you started. Rotate it to the wrong position and it won't shift!!!!!!!!!!!!(I suppose this is where the fear factor comes into play that scares the forums most experienced wrenches from recommending the adjustment) Out of the 360 degrees of adjustment, there are only a few degrees that provide a ridable bike. One 60th of a turn will have a noticeable effect. Read this thread of others' experiences: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...mp;#entry126457 One potential concern is that the screw may be loctited in so tight that it will not loosen. If I might dare create a step by step process for adjusting to fix bad downshifts, it would look like this: 1. Remove acorn nut. 2. Test ride to ensure adjuster screw did not move from original position. If it did, you could be too far out of adjustment. If that happens, proceed to step number 12. 3. Note or better yet mark position of adjustment screw. 4. Loosen lock nut, but make sure adjustment screw does not change position. Loosening the lock nut in quarter turn or less increment while verifying the adjustment screw does not turn will help prevent it from going more than 90 degrees off. 5. Turn the adjustment screw counter-clockwise about 12 degrees (-2 minutes of a minute hand on a clock face). 6. Tighten lock nut enough for test ride 7. Test ride and observe if it got, a. worse, or b. better a. If down shifts were your original problem and downshifts got worse, turn the adjustment screw clockwise about 24 degrees(so that you are now 12 degrees clockwise of the original marked position) b. If down shifts were your original proble and downshifts got better, turn the adjustment screw counter-clockwise another 12 degrees(so that you are now 24 degrees counter-clockwise of the original marked positon). 8. Test ride and observe if it got worse or better. 9. Adjust in 6 degrees in the direction that you think will make it better, if wrong, try the other direction. 10. Test ride and adjust as needed until you get it to the optimal position. 11. Lock the lock nut and the acorn, test, then celebrate with a long ride! But if you are completely lost and simply made it worse, proceed to step 12... 12. If you lost your original mark or it worse than ever, you will need to find the range where it will work. To do so, make sure lock nut is loose, then gently back the adjustment screw out (counter-clockwise) to the point of resistance, then incrementally turn it clockwise 30 degrees at a time testing the shifts with the engine off until you find the range where it shifts somewhat OK. 13. Tighten lock nut enough for test ride 14. Test ride and observe if which is worse, a. downshifts or b. upshifts a. If down shifts are worse, turn the adjustment screw clockwise about 12 degrees b. If up shifts are worse turn the adjustment screw clockwise another 12 degrees 15. Test ride and observe if it got worse or better. 16. Adjust in 6 degrees in the direction that you think will make it better, if wrong, try the other direction. 17. Test ride and adjust as needed until you get it to the optimal position. 18. Lock the lock nut and the acorn, test, then celebrate with a long ride! But if you are still completely lost and simply made it worse, try again. 19. You tried and tried, but it is worse than ever. Send me hate mail and join the crew of stupid dlaing haters. Please note, I am doing my best to help you and it is certainly possible that following any advice given on this forum you can manage to mess up your bike. To my knowledge, nobody on this forum has posted that they made it worse by trying to adjust it and several people have posted that they made it better. Good luck!

Like the others suggested: Redline ShockProof Clean and Adjust linkage Does it stick on both up-shifts and down-shifts? If it does not stick on both, but only on up or only on down, it may indicate that the adjuster under the acorn needs adjustment. But try the other stuff first as adjusting the screw under the acorn can be tricky. Actually it is easy, but requires patience to get it right by trial and error, but it can be done in under an hour. Make small adjustments and then test ride. Too much one way causes upshifts to fail, and too much the other causes downshifts to fail, all within less than a quarter turn. My bike used to blow downshifts, I adusted it and it was much better, then many miles later it started blowing upshifts, and an adjustment made it happy again. Shockproof and clean linkage has also helped.

I am no millionaire, but if MGS01 had a normal maintenance schedule, I could almost afford one. If that maintenance schedule was required for the street, I am not sure I could not afford to ride it, even if the bike was given to me. AAYMMV

So maybe street use would be fine and we could follow the Griso quatrovalvole maintenance schedule, if we keep the revs under 8000 rpm and the speeds under double legal??? Otherwise only millionaires and museum keepers could own the bike.

What is the reason for that? I am skeptical By the way, here is my lousy photo chop job blending the "monza" TT R with the MGS01. Use your imagination and you will know the potential. It would look better in red, and I suppose you could convert a Quatrovalvole Griso into something like this:

Hi VR6Dave, The photo is a little difficult to see, but as usual, I am with Ratchet, the brown speckles are nothing to be concerned about. I suspect it is simply a result of less than perfect atomization. The fact that you are not pinging with 87 octane tends to imply you are not running too lean at larger throttle openings. Getting 40MPG means you are doing better than I am, and I know I am running too rich. The 31 and 34MPG could mean you may be running too rich some of the time. The 40MPG is a good sign A proper tuning link session could improve things. You might also consider buying the brass engine temperature sensor holder and packing it with conductive. This helps give a higher temperature reading to the ECU, which in turn leans the bike slightly, especially when warming up. Doing this could help reduce the risk of seeing only 31MPG. If you want to experiment, you could try setting the TPS a little lower and seeing if it makes the bike happier. For giggles, I set mine about 10mV higher and I think I lost about 1 MPG, but it does seem to run more smooothly. I will try setting it to 10mV lower than recommended and do a comparison. But don't hold your breath waiting for me to get a round tuit around to it. Hopefully you can be the guinea pig.

what he said. That was special!

Oouch. That sux. You could also take the opportunity to sink even more money into a Big Bore, water cooled kit.

As I compose this message my Mother just called and her best friend's sister was just killed in a car crash. Possibly a hit and run. By comparison, I guess my life (with unemployment looming) is doing swimmingly, too.

IT IS VERY POLITICAL!!! The Liberation Army Against Freedom are the Islamic sector of the Christian front, The Libertarians Against Anarchist Freaks. The LAAF gives them away everytime ...

Black Bears rarely get speeding tickets, especially at night with lights off. But I suppose living is more important than a few speeding tickets. Still, black is my favorite color, so rejoice as there is always hope that maybe some cataract guided missile will take me out of your miserable universe.

"I suggest using either Silkolene Pro RSF (PDS)(ester) or Red Line (PDS)(polyol ester) synthetic suspension oils for front and rear suspension systems. They both have very high VI numbers and have enough of a viscosity selection to produce any mix you may need. You should, however, stay with one brand whichever way you go. I have decided to use Red Line exclusively. They range from extremely thin to extremely thick, in five different viscosities. They make the oil in nearby Benicia, CA and the oils come in really pretty colors." -- Peter Verdone The oils he recommends have V.I.s of 372 and 389, not the low VI oils that he mentions as "serviceable" and that "function well". Why choose an oil that only performs serviceably "well" when you can have "excellent" performance? My riding conditions can vary from near freezing to a bit over body temperature. That is enough to make a 115VI oil like the Motul Comfort go from, oh maybe 103.8cSt at 10C to maybe 35.3cSt at 40C, while the 322VI silkolene pro RSF 7.5W might from , oh maybe 57cSt at 10C to maybe 37cSt at 40C. There is a large difference in oil viscosities going from 10° to 40° to 100° C and the higher VIs reduce that change, so you get less fading at high temps and at low temps it functions the way you intended. Seems like a no brainer for me, unless the high VIs are reducing the lubricating ability of the fluid or have some other trade off. I guess for people on a budget, a few dollars less for the lower VI fluid makes sense. I can notice the difference temperature makes on my ride, and will gladly pay for the superiour high VI fluid.

Very interesting! Thanx

Does her head rotate 360° when she does that, like in the Exorcist movies? I'd prefer it if she belches "STELVIO"

Yep, I think you are right. I must of been confused by a cross reference. Apparently Tyco is headquartered off-shore of US, in Bermuda and Omron is based in Kyoto. I forgot Guzzi switched to unsealed A1001-A402 (4 terminal) and A1001-A403 (5 terminal) , so GP was most likely simply charging MSRP.

Those are also very close to the Marzocchi fluid rated in that chart at 26.10 cSt @ 40C with a Viscosity Index of 150. I think I missed the Marzocchi entry in the chart before. It seems like better choices are the Golden Spectro Very Light and SX400, both with Viscosity Index of 400, or use what Verdone suggests, the Silkolene Pro or the Redline, with V.I.s of 372 and 389, mixed to the appropriate weight. He also says, "In general, Use the least viscous oil possible that produces good slow speed damping performance with the damping adjustment screws out 1 full turn from full closed. This ensures that a fair amount of fine tuning will be available for track and weather conditions." Understanding what he means by that will really help you select the best oil. All too often people use too thick of an oil. The way I interpret what he is talking about, if your adjusters are dialed more than halfway out to obtain ideal damping, I think you should consider using a lighter oil/fluid, but if you close the screws to 1 full turn from fully closed and still don't get enough damping, you need a heavier oil/fluid. I have the Ohlins so I have been using the R&T but I'd like to try mixing Redline or Silkolene Pro as Verdone suggests.

Quatrovalvole means 'four balls' in 'merican. But if the Gods intended on four balls for every piston, They would have made it so from the get go. By the way, shouldn't your name be Duevalvole or maybe Ottantaduecavalli?