dlaing

TAKE THE SOD OUT OF YOUR EARZ

Yes, GP sells more bikes. GP has probably sold 25 Ducati for every Guzzi, while half of the bikes Sonny sold in the past years were probably Guzzis, and more than half of the new ones sold were V11 spines and tontis. If by "business" you mean sales, he has not done much, but he has done some. But if you mean they don't know V11s you are dead wrong. Both companies seem to charge MSRP on Guzzi parts, which ain't cheap, and the Tyco probably got priced to match the Guzzi book price. If you do a search on eBay motors for micro relays you probably won't find one shipped to you under $20. Obviously micro relays can be found cheaper. I am not sure people realize that Pyro Dan is practically selling those for wholesale and it is a nearly complete act of benevolence netting him pennies on the hour. Ryland will be lucky to make $3 per hour selling the relays. Again, not for the money. (And way less if you count in the research time). There is a Tyco/Omron connection, but Ryland sells made in USA relays, not made in Portugal.

Sonny Angel Motorcycles has done plenty of V11s and FWIW had the TechnoResearch software before the V11 came out, so are quite familiar with fuel injection. Perhaps not as many as GP, but GP has a few more mechanics. Didn't Dave move up North somewhere, greatly reducing their pool of Guzzi knowledge?

Of course you are on the Isle of Man, so you might consider buying local...

Here is brief history as I know it: Initially the Siemmens relays started failing. Pyro Dan saved the day for many people by offering Bosch relays. I bought a set from Dan, but eventually started to have trouble with the starter relay. I then bought another set from him, and went through several Bosch relays within a few months. I looked at the wiring diagram and determined that the current of the lighting passing through the starter relay was a bit too close to the steady load current rating of the Bosch and Siemmens. Dan and I searched for a relay with a better rating and came up with the GEI relay. 10A vs 20A rating seems like a no brainer, an mine have lasted for years and clearly cured a problem that the Bosch relays failed to cure. Eventually I did the headlight relay mod, with help from Gary Cheek, and that alleviated the issue of the NC contact in the starter relay. But there were a couple, or maybe a few, reports of the GEIs failing. I think both occurrences that I read about were failures, not at the starter relay, but at the fuel pump relay. Docc had one of the failures. Keep in mind that some people (Nogbad and maybe others) are still going strong with the original Siemmens relays!!! But as far as I know, those people have a switch to turn the headlight off. North American V11s don't have that switch. In my humble opinion, the Omrons that Ryland3210 sells are significantly better, especially at the NO contact than the GEI, and the GEI is significantly better than the Bosch, especially at the NC contact, and the Bosch is significantly better than the Siemmens. But As Always, Your Mileage May Vary. Other factors can cause the relays to fail, like a bad charging system or bad connections, so if you have a relay failure, it is a good idea to test the charger voltage output and go through the connections and clean with a product like DeOxit, a product that Ratchethack recommends. If you don't have the Siemmens or problems, you may be fine for many years to come. For insurance, it might be good to by a set of better relays and keep the old ones as spares. You can buy the Omrons from John Mickowski, aka Ryland3210, here: http://www.motratech.com/Welcome.html You can buy the GEI from Pyro Dan Prunuske, from where Ratchet posted, here: http://www.dpguzzi.com/relay.htm

Rich Maund and others put a layer of foam between gel and saddle cover material. Closed cell neoprene may be a good choice because of its insulating ability. I tried putting a thick slab of gel directly under the vinyl and it got way too hot and I had to remove it.

Sorry, I should have 'handled with care' And this post was not meant to start a sub topic on subliminal messages. Dan and Ratchet, and more importantly forum members, I am sorry.

I'd reply, but Jaap asked me to drop it. Arrividercci.

Please explain it to me. Or are you just full of insults and no substance like your brother Ratchet.

Yah, right, or maybe you have no substance to back it up. Obviously, the show was political, but the examples you gave were barely political, and not at all Politically Incorrect to anywhere near the point that it would face censorship, especially on this forum. Feel free to PM me with your insights into the political incorrectness of those three clips and why that level of un-PC would not be tolerated today. I do suppose they probably would not broadcast to children on Saturday morning if Boris and Natasha Fatale were replaced with Mohammed and Benazir Bootycall. Thank goodness for a little PC sensitivity.

Why would any of those examples be repressed by the PC Police?

I verified, and setting it down very light vs. pressing firmly in differed by somewhere between 10 and 15mV. BAAYMMV

I am content to set my spark plugs to within 1/10 of a mm and I don't think I could set it much closer with the gauge I use. Tire pressure is like a mood to me and I can vary by nearly 5PSI. But TPS is the key to the first door on the search for the holy grail. Within a minute I can adjust it to within ±2mV. It really is no big deal to set it that accurately. Setting it to ±0.5mV is tougher, but is doable within 5 minutes of hit and miss tightening. Yes depending on how it is seated and whether engine is running or not, the TPS setting can vary greatly. If your wife farts, just be grateful you don't have one of those suede Tenni seats that absorb the odors. Just because your wife's farts throw the sensor off by a ±10 millivolts does not mean you should give up on the pursuit of accuracy. Quite the contrary, because if you set it to 150mV±1mV and the seating error is, oh say, ±5mV and the state of charge error is, oh say, ±10mV, and the wife farting is ±10mV , then you could be as far off as ±26mV, while if you were setting it to ±10mV you could be off by as much as 35mV! The 8 bit ECU increments it into 256 steps of about 19.5mV per step. (5000mV / 256 = 19.53125) The fuel map has 16 rows of fuel cells. 5000mV / 16 = 312.5 mV A difference of 9mV over 312.5 mV is less than 3% of a fuel cell, so yah it is not going to amount to much difference. But I know for a fact, that if I am by 60mV or less than 20% of a fuel cell, the bike will run in a noticeably miserable way. So, off by 3% won't be noticeable, but it is making a difference that the rider cannot perceive. Is that difference important? Probably not. But I'll still take the extra minute or two to get it very close to 150mV People who plan on doing custom dyno mapping should do the same, IMHO.

Wow! that explains a lot about your knowledge base Vectors in two directions at one point. Cush rubbers that don't bottom out when popping a wheelie. Human activities having absolutely no effect on unmentionable events. The impossibility of our bikes making 120+HP All simply mind boggling and largely unchallenged by the sheople.

Check out Frank's exhaust mod http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ic=4295&hl=

Take superlative performance to another level. http://www.guzzitech.com/store/TR-DirectLink.html $298 US http://www.tuneboy.com.au/ $399 AUD http://jefferies-au.org/MyECU/index.htm $250-$620 AUD To each their own.

At electrical contacts you probably want to avoid WD40. You might instead try DeOxit, followed up with DeOxit Shield. Ratchet and others have steered me away from silicone dielectric lubes on electrical contacts. WD40 might due in a pinch to get you home in a rain fall, but consider what Ratchet says about WD40.

Making sure the wires don't get pushed of range in the relay sockets is a good idea. I don't think it is a Guzzi thing....maybe an Italian motor vehicle thing???????? Does Marelli make the sockets? The regulator wire on my Guzzi failed, but the result was undercharging, weak battery, and starter turning too slowly. It did not result in symptoms like yours.

That is good to know there is an over pressure valve. I was not thinking that the pump would stop working, but that it would put a burden on the relay or cause the 10A fuse to blow, which would cause the pump to not get electricity. But now that I think about it, the fuse should protect the relay, and if the relay is failing, a new one should be able to handle the 10A of current, assuming it can even get that high with a clogged filter. And before the filter gets that clogged, the high loads/rpm should exhibit fuel starvation symptoms like you pal's Ducati.

A few times on the forum I have suggested that symptoms like your's and what caused Docc to revert back to Bosch could be caused by a clogged fuel filter, but in every case the problem was resolved by something other than replacing the filter. Still I think it is a possibility, mentioned not because it is most probable, but only because it is possible. The GEI are excellent relays that have the highest resistive load amp rated NC contacts, but Ryland dissected them and determined that the Omrons that he provides are even better. Replacing the relays, especially the the NO contact dependent Fuel pump and ECU relays with Ryland's Omrons will likely solve your problem and Windchill's!!! But it is worth following Brenttodd's advice to check for voltage.

The following must be true because I found it on the internet: 2(MoS2)(s) + 5(O2)(g) -> 2(MoO3)(s) + 2(SO2)(g) I suppose you will say it is gibberish and made up out of thin air This patent appears to be a real world example of creating SO2 from MoS2. http://www.google.com/patents?id=ghs3AAAAE...ide%22+#PPA1,M1 The temperatures used are much higher than the temperature in the gear box, so it is still questionable whether this could happen in the gear box. But the Extreme Pressures in the gear box combined with the temperature and maybe the presence of catalytic metal, could possibly free the SO2. By itself that is wild speculation, but knowing SO2 is being generated(it stinks), and knowing that Mo and S are on the safety sheet, and knowing some basic knowledge of what they put in gear and engine lubes, it is not a far stretch to suggest that the source of the sulfur smell is MoS2 or a derivative compound, aka 'Moly'. But we are beating a dead horse here. If you want to believe synthetic moly or organic moly is not moly and thus moly is not in Shockproof, be my guest, I am done.

What extreme speculation? That there is Moly in Shockproof?!? I could be wrong about the source of the sulfur smell, but it is not extreme speculation to think that the known thermal breakdown components of sulfur and or molybdenum are evidence of the use of a MoS2 based compound. Synthetic Organic Moly (where 'Moly' is defined as a molybdenum based compound) is made by adding(synthesizing) carbon (and usually other molecules(especially hydrogen)) to Molydenum (or more typically to inorganic MoS2). Perhaps "adding" is an inappropriate word, but I thought it would suffice for a forum conversation. Let's take a little trip back to Junior High School Chemistry, shall we? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Organic_compound "Organic compounds comprise all chemical compounds containing carbon-hydrogen (C-H) bonds of covalent character. Due to historical reasons (see below) a few compounds containing carbon not bound to hydrogen are also subsumed under this term" What!?! All I know is that it stinks of Sulfur after the Shockproof is used....peeeyooooo!!!! When fresh it is not bad. Probably the Sulfur is separating from the moly molecular compound or somehow oxidizing. EDIT Maybe something like MoS2 + 3O2 = MoO2 + 2SO (feel free to correct me, I don't remember how to balance an equation) Yes, let us go back to chemistry class... It seems to be that Moly should be stable at gearbox temperatures and not break down into separate Molybdenum and Sulfur oxides. The Shockproof smells more like sulfur than any other used oil that I have ever noticed, but according to you I am jumping to a false conclusion. You could be right, but I certainly need more than your Junior High lecture. What other sulfur compounds are in Shockproof? And why are they there? And how do you know they are what stinks and not the result of the moly compound enduring a year of hot Guzzi gears? Just cause Dave at Redline says his product does not wear out, does not mean it does not wear out. Certainly something is making it stink like rotten eggs! And somewhat related: Redline claims that there product does not wear out, but conventional gear oil with moly additive does not keep the moly in suspension forever. Open the gearbox, drain the oil completely, and you will see a coating of moly. Do you get this coating if you use Shockproof? If so, is it pink instead of grey? inquiring minds need to know. The bottom line to my mind is that if there in molybdenum in safety sheet, their is Moly added for lubrication. The moly may or may not be simply MoS2. It could be one of many MoS2 based compounds. Denial is futile.

Yah whatever guys. Moly is slang and could be used to describe just about any Molybdenum compound or even free molybdenum. For example on commodities charts it is referred to as moly. http://www.moly.imoa.info/ The safety sheet says oxides of sulfur and molybdenum. "THERMAL DECOMPOSITION: Oxides of carbon, phosphorous, calcium, molybdenum, and sulfur." They would not say it if it were not there in quantity enough to merit the warning. Does this mean there is enough molybdenum in there to protect the engine? No, but it would be an INCREDIBLE long shot that the molybdenum was NOT put in there to protect the engine. Possibly it is in there to reduce oxidation, but the side effect is still lubrication!!! Molybdenum in ore state is bound to sulfur. The sulfur is not an additive. For the Sulfur not to be part of the compound, it would have to undergo an expensive process. Yes, they may have added carbon to it, but it is purely a semantic argument whether or not it could still be called 'moly'. Just for giggles, take a big whiff of the shockproof next time you change the oil and try to tell me you don't smell sulfur. I can not imagine why they would add sulfur, unless it came along with the moly. It's moly. Shockproof Pink is made out of moly. They're making our gear lube out of moly. Next thing they'll be mining it in China and putting it in engine oil. You've gotta tell them. You've gotta tell them! "It's people. Soylent Green is made out of people. They're making our food out of people. Next thing they'll be breeding us like cattle for food. You've gotta tell them. You've gotta tell them!" -- Detective Thorn

Police gave this stunter the same treatment, but at higher speed. If link does not work, try searchin' youtube for Police Car vs. Bike mazdai Or check this one out, in the USA ?Texas? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJXZJaGTAhc Police car vs Motorbike lordrenoir There are probably more videos out there of excessive force used against the lawless motorcyclist.

Yep, it is the Guzzi way. Lots of doityourself and budget attitudes here. Most forum members have probably already found a handlebar solution. But I am a little surprised you have not found ten customers, yet. Maybe you should start a fresh thread for the group buy???