dlaing

Redline shockproof has moly in it. You can read about it in the Material Data Safety Sheet http://www.redlineoil.com/msds/44.pdf Nearly six years ago, forum member Janusz introduced Redline Shockproof to the forum. I thought it was obvious from Redline's documentation to use the Shockproof LIGHTWEIGHT. Redline says the HEAVY has "a film thickness similar to a 75W250 grade", while the LIGHTWEIGHT is "Similar to a 75W140 gear oil". I went with the LIGHTWEIGHT, but after a year or so of reading Ratchet and others recommend the HEAVY, I switched to the HEAVY and found the bike shifts slightly better with the HEAVY. But I still suspect the LIGHTWEIGHT may be better in cold climates. You can make the judgement yourself based on how it shifts as the engine warms up. FWIW, I was concerned the HEAVY would consume more fuel, but I noticed no increase in fuel consumption after switching to the heavy.

Good points. I don't recall for sure, but I think it is possible to forget connecting one of the ground wires to the battery and still have a functioning bike, but with the symptoms the GED's bike is exhibiting.

Could be bad coil, or electrical connections, or bad engine position sensor, or bad spark plugs, or ???. If you have a timing light you can hook it up and see if you are getting spark consistently. But I do think fueling issues seems more likely.

It does not matter. Either yellow from alternator, can go to either yellow of regulator. Just make sure you have good connections. While you are there, look for signs of cooked wires, or cooked 30A fuse.

side stand and neutral switch are and either or requirement for starting. If the bike side stand is up, OR the neutral switch is activated, it should be able to start. If the bike side stand is up, AND the neutral switch is activated, AND either is malfunctioning, it should be able to start. So, if the bike side stand is up, AND the neutral switch is activated, BOTH would have to fail in order for starting to fail. Problem is more likely a relay, a connection, a fueling, or ignition problem.

Haven't you been schooled by Todd in how to lane split? I am not a big lane splitter my self, but the hotter it gets and the slower the traffic is, the more likely I am to lane split, even in states where it is prohibited.

Has anyone tried hooking a fan up to oil cooler? I live in an area where lane splitting is legal, so I am not too concerned, but I was thinking a small fan would do the trick. Is oil the only thing at risk? What about exhaust valves and piston seizure? It seems to me that when the exhaust pipes start to glow, you are risking engine damage.

You can't make a Guzzi Fugly, the worst you can do is make it Jugly!

fattractive, fexcellent, felegant, fappealing, fadorable, and even fethereal. It is a challenge to make a fairing look good and still protect the rider. I think that fairing nicely enhances the classic look of the V11sport. It is much better looking than an H&H fairing I imagine the forum's platform shoe wearers fit nicely behind the Magni, but for me, I would sooner go naked. I had a BMW R90/100/S Fairing until I crashed it. It worked without turbulence in two postions, with neck stretched above turbulence, or in a full tuck. Let us know how it works for turbulence and protection. I see you can also get the Scout with a shorter windscreen with an option for smoke tint. But I think the clear works well with the Green paint. A shorter shield might be a nice Summer time option. EDIT Never mind. I see you have the riding impressions covered in another thread http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12881

Here is the engine temperature compensation map And getting back to the highjacked topic, anyone buy a MotoModa sheet lately?

Here is the engine temperature compensation map The hotter it gets, the leaner it gets, and I presume the leaner it gets, the hotter it gets. I don't think it is a well designed curve, but I can't prove it just yet, but once I get a WBO2 sensor I will be modifying ALL the maps. The barometric curve is interesting Note how they avoided leaning at too high an altitude. I think they did this to avoid overly leaning if the sensor failed.

Good point. It is nice that they have an automatic shut off feature, but they set the cut off point to 11.5V which is almost useless. Maybe it will help when starting, but that is about it. If they had set the cut off point to about 13V that would have made a lot more sense. If RPMs dropped too low, it would shut off. Maybe even the newer bikes like the Griso could probably use it if the cut off point was above the cut off point of the Griso computer.

As an alternative idea, you should be able to ignore the DynoJet equipment and set the lambda sensor controller to provide a suitable AFR to Voltage conversion, and then pipe it in place of the engine temperature sensor output. It probably would not work well until somewhat warmed up, so you would need a toggle switch to change from temperature sensor to O2 sensor. The temperature sensor is about 4.9V at -40C, once the engine is somewhat warmed up, ie., 40C it reads about 2.5V and then when it fully warms up, 500-600mV at 100C. I'd have to check but I think at 125C it gets pretty close to zero, but I don't think it ever reaches. Once at about 40C you could probably switch to closed loop. If the voltage output is 2.5 or higher it should enrichen, and if it approaches 500mV it should lean it out. You might have to play with the settings a bit to get the right closed loop feed back. But the beauty of it is that it might even work just by using 0 V = AFR 12 and 5 V = AFR 14 But I would be careful as you might get false readings, and dumping more or less fuel sometimes results in the opposite lambda reading of what you expect. To be more conservative, you could set the range to maybe 1 V = AFR 12 and 3 V = AFR 14 If the AFR tends to be too high, try 1.5 V = AFR 12 and 3.5V = AFR 14 If tthe AFR tends to be too low, try 0.5 V = AFR 12 and 2.5V = AFR 14 If sometimes it is too high and sometimes too low, you might need to expand the range to something like 0.5 V = AFR 12 and 4 V = AFR 14 But watch or better yet, log the lambda meter! I think that as long as you are somewhat warmed up, lambda feedback will be better than temperature feedback. But if you already have all the dynojet gear, you might as well do it that way, assuming it is doable. The advantage is that you could change the fueling map, while if you do it the way I suggest it, it is more of kluge, unless you have software to re-map the ECU. If anyone is interested I can take some screen shots of the Tuneboy engine temperature compensation map that indicates how the ECU handles the change in voltage. One thing I would be concerned about is the durability of the sensor in wet conditions.

Humidity has a big a effect on hot weather comfort, or lack there of. In 110 degree desert heat leather with moderate ventilation seems to work fine, as long as you are moving. A white tee shirt over black leather is not a bad idea. I theorize that in dry desert heat too much ventilation, such as what is found in mesh suits, can be a bad thing as I SUSPECT it may dehydrate you more quickly. This is however to my knowledge unproven. Mesh suits work great in hot humid conditions. Cycleport aka Motoport makes Kevlar mesh suits. http://www.motoport.com/ As far as I know they are the only mesh suits that are anywhere near as tough as leather. Their Kevlar suits also breath pretty well according to a riding buddy, and their advertising. Perforated leather is another option. I use Sidi Vertigo Corsa Air boots and I am very happy with them. They are comfortable a little below 60F and of course at far higher temperatures than non-perforated boots. In retrospect I should have saved money and bought the Sidi Vertigo Air. The Vertigo Corsa Air fit more snuggly, but take longer to get in and out of.

As I mentioned in the other thread, my V65 cush suffered a loss of original properties. But it is not available for studying.

Less hysteresis appears that it could improve things for the reasons Skeeve mentioned. Drilling the deceleration bushings was a compromise to soften the cush, and not much was lost, because I traded quantity of hysteresis for quality, via an air cushion/dampener. No. Something like superballs or springs, but not so much that you get pogo'ing. No, it would not be like adding steel or wood. I suppose it is possibly lessening hysteresis by creating an air cushion, but overall it is making it softer, and I presume the air will leak out creating a dampening effect and thus more hysteresis. Are we all on the same page when it comes to defining hysteresis? To my mind, in over-simplified terms it similar to dampening. Things with high hysteresis are things that absorb energy, but return little of it, like a Tempurpedic mattress, sorbothane shoe inserts, a gel saddle insert, a polyester fill stuffed pillow. Thinks with lower hysteresis would comparatively be a Spring mattress, Nike Air running shoes, a spring saddle, an inflatable pillow. Perhaps we ideally need a two stage bushing, with the first stage soft and high hysteresis and the second stage with low hysteresis, but firm. Sorbothane and progressive springs??? Nike air bubbles and Dr. Scholl's Gel inserts? Ideally springs and hydraulic dampers, but that is getting too elaborate. H8Chains had some ideas.

In an earlier post I described how I drilled only one drill hole through the radius of the deceleration cush pies in such a way that it formed an air cushion. While only slightly adding to the quantity of hysteresis over an undrilled bushing, the air cushion should have an excellent quality of hysteresis. I only did this in the direction of deceleration as I did not want to risk creating a bottoming out condition during acceleration. Thanks to Troy and Ryland, we have a better idea of what forces the bushings might face.

Thanks Ratchet and Skeeve for the dialog on hysteresis. I think the ideal level of hysteresis would be as little as possible without causing the bike to "pogo" fore and aft. (Please feel free to correct my untechnical terminology) Greasing the cush will probably increase the pogo'ing, but since nobody has complained about it, I'll assume Skeeve is correct and we ideally should pursue less, not more hysteresis. Thanks!

Since you are out of here you will won't read this, but maybe someone else can turn your theoretical equation into a real equation expressing your theory: "To make the point with an extreme example, suppose the clutch and contact patch were replaced with rigid connections (infinite friction). If the engine is rev'd up and clutch dumped, the initial peak torque would be extremely high. If there was no elasticity in the driveline, it would theoretically be infinite but for a very short time." You later qualified that no elasticity meant no cush. I just don't get it. If you dropped a feather on the upper end of a see-saw would you theoretically get a moment of infinite torque? Does it become infinite if you take a hammer and hit the upper end of the see-saw such that it raises the other end? If spy satellite debris traveling from above at many thousands of miles per hour hits the upper end of the see-saw is the force simply infinite torque for a longer period of time? I just don't buy it unless someone can give a better explanation. Here is a similar question: "If a perfect sphere resting on a perfect surface makes contact at a single point, does its mass exert infinite pressure?" -- Mawgan Asked Nov 19 2006 10:19AM http://www.answerbag.com/q_view/90472 Here is my answer: As the area approaches zero, the pressure would rise towards infinity. Assuming theoretical mathematics and not theoretical physics, the area of contact would be infinitesimally small and thus, assuming there was one iota of force, the pressure would be infinite. Because the area never reaches zero, the pressure must exist. But that raises the question, would raising the force increase the already infinite pressure? If so, I believe we have a conundrum, and the answer may in fact be ultrafinitism. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultrafinitism But that is too heavy for me with my clearly incomplete education.

No, actually it metal knocking on metal.

No, it is clear that you have not grasped the flaw in your equation, obviously due to either your lack of education or brain cells.

I disagree. With no give of clutch, tire, or driveline, the finite inertia resisting the lifting of the front wheel limits the torque at the rear axle to the finite universe. So in both the theoretical and real worlds, the torque will be finite. And more relevantly, the lighter the front end and the higher the gravity, the less the torque will be at the rear wheel. If you put a chromed steel front wheel on the front with disk rotors made of tungsten, you would get more torque than if you replace the front wheel with a nice carbon fiber wheel with ceramic rotors. Infinite only occurs if there is absolutely no give. Inertia has a giving point that keeps the torque in the finite universe.

Affordability is matter of one's personal finance. It will cost you about as much as trading in your Guzzi for a Ducati 1098 or BMW R1200S. For me the Big Bore would be the better ride. 5000 to 8000 Euro is a broad price range. I am sure if you email them or email who Paul suggested, they will happily give you a price breakdown. One consideration is durability. An added cost may be increased wear of the driveline.

Last May I wrote them and they responded Yes you could have a used V-Rod for that price, or you could buy a Ducati 1098 and have a much lighter bike, but neither would be a Guzzi. At the moment, I can't think of a bike on Earth that I would rather have than a Big Bore Guzzi with Ohlins forks and other fine bits.