dlaing

If you can get me a set for under $40, count me in.

Jack, not a nice way to treat the new guy. Polyurethane has obvious advantages over rubber. This is clearly not a TROLL but someone who wants to make a contribution to the Guzzi community. Hopefully your hostility has not scared him off. If you retract your post I will retract mine....hopefully before the whole forum gets shut down.

If people are moving to the brass fitting, packing it with conductive, and wrapping it all in insulating tape, I would be concerned about going off the chart. I have not road logged the sensor to see if I am hitting 125°C, but if I am, than others will be off the charts. I don't think that is a good idea. Even if they are just bumping the temperature up 20° on the chart, they are running the bike leaner. This may be fine for PCIII'd bikes, but for people running the stock ECU with open airbox and aftermarket mufflers, this could just be more of a bad thing. Since I have Tuneboy and can change the numbers to whatever I want, I suppose I could optimize it by packing the sensor, but while insulating the threads with teflon tape to keep temperature down. We want the sensor tip to get hot as quickly as possilbe, not the sensor. We want the sensor body to stay cool, but not get overcooled by rain....Perhaps we should be putting a rain shield around it! The hotter you make the sensor with conductive goo, the more the rain will cool it down, creating a bigger change at the ECU. There is a lot going on here with a solutions that don't appear to be well thought out. To my mind the ideal solution would be a silver probe deep into the heart of the cylinder with an insulated sensor housing. I think Luigi was on to something with the plastic housing. If combined with something conducting the heat to the sensor tip, I think we would have a near ideal situation. The insulated plastic also insulates away the effect of cool wind and rain. Need more data!

The chart on the sensor goes like this( I was lazy so there are missing rows at ten degree increments) C° Kohm -40 100950 0 9750 40 1598 80 0.377 125 0.102 Now I have not run tests, but assuming those are the limits of what it can read, I am prettty darn sure I have had the bike closer to the upper limit than the lower. Cooling fins, plastic insulation, and airgap might actually make sense for this non water cooled engine.

It's weight is equivalent to that of $1 plumbing part. I paid $40 plus shipping for the brass one. I wonder how much the plastic and brass on is? I ordered a plastic and brass one about two or three years ago and it has not arrived. Must be the bean counters lost count.

And a bar is get drunk(if you can afford the alcohol) It would be nice to get good resolution at that first PSI. Ryland, do you have any other gauge options other than PSI. The 0 -100 PSI range is perfect, but these Europeans need bars like mars needs women!

So, now where you were pinging the timing is just about perfect, so power and efficiency are now MUCH closer to optimal! You must have a big smile on your face! At least that was my experience when I got the Tuneboy (not that the PCIII never gave me smiles, tuning the ECU just does so much more)

One thing to keep in mind is that Ryland got a reading of 80PSI at about 0C using 15W-40. In Scandinavia you may ride in much cooler temperatures. Hopefully you will be using a 5W synthetic in those conditions, but the point is you may experience more than 80PSI. Maybe there is a maximum pressure rating for that 5bar gauge??? Or you can buy Ryland's 100PSI gauge kit

I ain't qualified either, but my guess is that as long as you are getting more than a few psi, oil will get delivered. A few things might be effecting your 40psi compared to Ryland's 60psi. Actual oil viscosity at time of test. Filter bypass valve relief pressure setting. (different brands and models have different spring ratings.) Condition of filter.(but there is a school of thought that Guzzi filters never bypass, so if you follow it, you can ignore filter's effects on pressure) Idle speed.

Ryland3210 got a maximum reading of 80PSI which is 5.52 bar, so it probably is not enough. Too bad, because it would be nice to have the accuracy of the 5 bar meter.

That is what I thought, but I was told in another thread that it must be the bean counters. I find it hard to believe the single piece brass fitting costs more than the three part brass and plastic piece. But if they got a deal from a Fiat supplier, that could explain it. I was concerned that the sensor could only endure so much cylinder head temperature, but I was assured that it is not a problem. But why did they put cooling fins on the brass piece? Or why doesn't the sensor plug directly into the head?

For comparison, from the manual the V11Sport is Inlet Opens 22° before TDC Inlet Closes 54° after BDC Exhaust Opens 52° before TDC Exhaust Closes 24° before TDC Duration 256° They don't specify what opening that was measured at, but it is quite a bit less duration than the 305 and 301 that MotoGuzznix posted.

Here are some RaceCo numbers (all measured at .5mm) SS2 Raceco’s SS2 camshaft is an improved version of the SS (also known as the P3) camshaft. It has more lift, duration and overlap than the SS but retains the low rpm torque with extra power at the top end. It is accurately ground using state of the art equipment. The timing figures with a checking clearance of 0.5mm are as follows: Inlet opens 38 degrees BTDC Inlet closes 72 degrees ABDC Exhaust opens 72 degrees BBDC Exhaust closes 38 degrees ATDC Duration 290 degrees inlet and exhaust Cam lift 8.25mm Valve lift is 10mm approx. dependant on rocker ratio/geometry and production tolerances. Raceco SS3 camshaft The timing figures with a checking clearance of 0.5mm are as follows: Inlet opens 52 degrees BTDC Inlet closes 88 degrees ABDC Exhaust opens 87 degrees BBDC Exhaust closes 51 degrees ATDC Duration 320 degrees inlet Duration 318 degrees ehaust Valve lift is 11.32mm inlet and 10.97mm exhaust dependant on rocker ratio/geometry and production tolerances. SS4 Inlet opens 26 degrees BTDC Inlet closes 62 degrees ABDC Exhaust opens 51 degrees BBDC Exhaust closes 17 degrees ATDC Duration 268 degrees inlet Duration 248 degrees exhaust Valve lift is 9.6mm inlet and 9.54mm exhaust approx. dependant on rocker ratio/geometry and production tolerances. http://www.raceco.com/tech.html anyone know the numbers for a stock V11California/Jackal or a Quota?

Didn't we banish you to a nunnery? By the way, have you heard from HelicopterJim? We miss you guys

Very nice job! I really need to learn how to weld...

Cool! We spent many hours writing the instructions. If you needed to run the idle TPS at that low voltage we'd have to spend another ten pages figuring out why! Skip the Official Guzzi Garage Overalls, buy some Red OshKosh and a patch or two, but then tell everyone that they are official Guzzi! (The money saved should be good for somethin )

Welcome to the forum! Good to see there is at least one V11 in Brazil. Did you buy it in Montevideo, Uruguay? I don't know how good your access to parts is in Brasil, but you may discover the internet is a great way to order parts. Especially from v11lemans.com forum sponsors!!! Looking at the image Luhbo posted, you will see a grey hose. Normally that hose is not there. If it is not there, do not worry. But there is also a fitting at each throttle body that should be capped off. The other posters are discussing the theory that the hose should go from the pressure regulator, form a "T" and branch off to the two throttle bodies. But it is only a theory, that some believe will improve the bike. Your bike should have been built with no hose there. You may be looking at a fuel pressure relief hose coming off of the fuel tank??? That hose merely needs to vent or breathe.

I have never seen a published .05/.10mm US spec, so I think that is an urban legend. Possibly based on an earlier model Guzzi. My bike was previously set by my dealer to .10/.15, so when I read about the RaceCo spec years ago on this forum, I too made the compromise between .10/.15mm and .20/.25mm and went with the obvious .15/.20mm. This gave me a higher idle than the .10/.15. Your post years ago may have been what got me to try the more open clearance. Are you saying that once the tappets are open enough for a stable idle, there should be no significant change in idle at a higher tappet setting?

The original plastic ones can break from just a foot pound of torque. The brass ones won't. I am not sure but it probably is the part used in the V1100 fuel injected bikes before the 1999 V11 was produced. Your local Guzzi dealer might have it in stock(as Ratchet said), if not, MPH, MotoInternational (as Pete said), MGCycle, and Harpers are all good bets.

Good point about how rain could effect the reading if there is insulation. Wind speed of course would be another factor. The optional brass fitting has cooling fins. I wonder if that is a good idea? (I know, over-analyzing...)

Black is more fashionably safe

Congratulations, I think you convinced me to go with the RaceCo spec! It might give me an opportunity to test the change's effect on idle speed. So, if a bike was custom mapped at .10/15mm going to the RaceCo spec would SIGNIFICANTLY mess up the mapping????

A temp sensor measures how hot the luvin' is But seriously, on the right cylinder head there is a sensor screwed into a fragile plastic adapter which is screwed into the cylinder head. There is no metal to metal contact between cylinder head and sensor, and the ECU is known to respond slowly to the engine's warming up, so people have theorized that you should put conductive goo into where you screw the sensor to conduct the heat to the sensor, providing the ECU with a higher temperature reading. For some reason, what goo you use is a contentious issue. I have used silver conductive grease, but it was poopoo'd, for lack of conductivity, so don't you dare use it!!! An alternative solution is to buy mapping software and tweak the temperature compensation map. But that is more expensive than a little goo, and you might end up selling your pciii on ebay, so don't let that happen.

Turo wants it to be as flickable as a Sporti, not as flickable as a hypersport speed triple. Hey power ranger, do you change wardrobe to ride your speed triple? LOL Congrats on the game!

My mistake, sorry. Thanks for the clarification. When I switched from .10/.15 to .15/.20mm it must have been the stabilization that gave me the higher idle. Others on the forum have also gotten higher idle after going to a more open clearance, again it must have been the stabilization. If valves are too tight I have experienced that idle is inconsistent, sometimes stalling and sometimes being too high. Once loose enough, stability is not an issue, right? As for running at .20/.25mm I have had a few veterans warn me that it is too loose and will increase wear. If a bike has been mapped to the factory setting of .10/.15 will using .20/.25mm mess up the mapping?