dlaing

Understood. and BTW, Excellent explanation!

I think you are fine using the RT screw. After you get the TPS set to 150mV, screw in the right idle set screw until you get 520mV (or whatever works for you), then reconnect and and balance with the linkage adjuster knob. This will keep the TPS at 520mV. If you use the left screw it can throw off the TPS (which can be OK, but first try it keeping the left screw backed away from contact.) I too find I get better balance using the RT screw.

You seem to be doing everything right. The only thing I can think of is that the throttle body was not all the way home at 150mV. When setting the 150mV you need to make sure that not only is the choke disconnected, but that it does not interfere. The return spring on the right throttle body could be binding. Try cleaning spring with carb cleaner and lube with silicone spray(anyone have a better solution? I have some concern that the lube attracts dirt, but I think it is worth it to reduce oxidation.) It may be necessary to gently force the right throttle body home by moving the linkage lever to the right. Since the throttle body valve spends most of its time in the idle position it wants to stay there. If you had set the TPS to 150mV and the right throttle body was not fully home, then setting idle TPS to 360mV or 520mV would surely result in a very high idle. I hope that helps. And ditto on the follow the pinned instructions. As a distraction to your question, your result is making me think that maybe the WOT TPS, Wide Open Throttle Throttle Position Sensor measurement system would be better. The linkage should still be disconnected, but the results might be more consistent and there would be no need to mess with set screws or choke. If anyone wants to discuss this, I will move this idea to the pinned TPS thread.

I love it when you talk gear head

The animated graph looks like it is measuring in atmospheres. Compressing to about 8 atmospheres and then ignition causing it to jump to about 24 atmospheres. I have no idea whether the 24 atmospheres would occur at idle, while accelerating or while decelerating. It should vary proportionally to the amount of torque being produced, and I am pretty sure our engines will create more than 24 atmospheres of pressure. But yes, I could be wrong...

Cool! Now I need to come up with another couple hundred bucks! My bars are the FG with four degree bend. I was considering the zero degree (90°) bend, but this would be much better. Plus or minus 8 degrees! (in 4° increments)

When I got my Quat-D muffler my bike it aggravated the pinging at about 5000 rpm. I custom mapped it with a PCIII serial on a tuning link dyno and the pinging got worse, because they leaned it in that area. Adding about 25 points to the PCIII map cured the problem, but I always thought that was too rich and retarding timing would have been the better solution. I eventually traded the Quat-D for a pair of Mistrals. The bike was still prone to pinging, but then I got Tuneboy and was able to easily eliminated the pinging through a mild change in timing. IMHO timing is a better way to reduce it than fueling, especially if you are needing significantly more fuel than what people with same mods are mapping to. Maybe squish is a better solution still. We had a discussion on the forum where it seemed quite clear that the Mike Rich Piston provided a better squish effect than the FBF or OEM pistons. But in my opinion optimizing timing is a good idea....I am just not sure how to do it, yet...

Oooops my bad. I thought I had gotten one there, but you are correct! Sorry. In any case, it may be better to refer to the 2002 catalog for most parts as there were few changes. I guess the only way to download it for our bike is to go here: http://www.angelfire.com/weird2/v11/ It is a little tricky getting it to work right. Just follow the instructions precisely. Different PDF viewers handle the ricambi differently. For example some won't show the part number.

What? You failed the test? Here is the direct link: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/mot..._parts_catalogs

Parts? follow the link from the website in my signature to the www.thisoldtractor.com manual downloads. It is a backdoor to the batcave, so don't tell anyone, especially not Batman.

I'd agree with that, but I think that above 2000RPM you get diminishing returns. Without scientific backing, I would guess 1500-2000RPM is ideal. 1000-1200RPM may be too gentle... What pressure readings do you get during a cold start at various RPMs? How does that reading relate to actual bearing oil pressure?

Mike Stewart took this photo that nicely shows which two wires to probe (the outer two) Here is direct link to photo http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/6420/tpsvoltage02xe1.jpg EDIT 02.02.08 But it seems to be missing at the moment... Here is a new version By dlaing at 2008-01-22

It is a big state. Yah, looking at the map and Guzzi's list of dealers, there are three dealers closer than Encore EPFGuzzi! At least she has a few to chose from if she heads NorthWest. People in other states aren't so lucky. In San Diego I am really lucky now with two THREE FOUR Guzzi Dealers!

Are you selling kits? EDIT I guess so. From an earlier post you posted your website http://www.motratech.com/Welcome.html Have you made a setup for the V11S? Or a discounted setup where we have to figure out where to mount it?

I spliced and soldered in a couple of wires just to make taking readings easier. (But Ryland's suggestion probably works great. I never thought of that!) I should take a photo of which wires to probe and add it to the pinned TPS post.....and I would have if I could remember which wires I soldered to.

I don't know which Arizona dealer you mean, but a lot of people seem to favor EPFG in Prescott. Might be worth giving them a try for parts, etc. As Bob just pointed out, low miles could be somewhat of bad thing. The two reasons for this are that it was likely sitting too long, possibly unwinterized, and it may not have had all the issues worked out. But don't fret it, low miles also have obvious benefits. This forum will help you get past just about any problem you might have. If you have some idea how to use a wrench and hex keys you might not need to visit the dealer very often. Most Guzzi problems are easy to resolve. It will not likely be as problem free as your Honda, but part of the fun is learning with the bike. Also, the forum sponsors are usually better at having parts in stock than the local dealers, and often have lower prices...not that one should not support their local dealer, but it is your hard earned money,

This article compares tapered and ball in a Honda ST1100 http://home.insightbb.com/~mmartin36/Taper.htm It was a little unclear but I read it to indicate 3.3 to 4.4 lb torque for tapered and 20 foot pounds for ball. I usualy use about 1 to 3 foot pounds, but I do it without ropes, weights or torque wrench, so accuracy is not present. I think Brian makes a good point and 4 foot pounds may be more appropriate. And Pete made a good point or two about the problems associated with measuring torque.

18 views and no responses....Oh well. I have no idea how to bench test the brake switch. I would test it on my bike. You might try re-posting the question it Technical. Welcome to the forum! And same to other new forum members, welcome!

Thanks for the clarification. I had missed that you had increased the compression. I am looking forward to your progress reports! ( please ) Sounds like a great plan!

You could be correct about not needing to loosen the triples. I'll look into it and get back to you in a few years...

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Don't forget to loosen the triples before taking out any bearing freeplay. I tighten upper triples with my weight and the bike's weight bearing straight down.

But not nearly the flexibility of the ECU map. And without vacuum advance, centrifugal timing adjustment is two dimensional and limited. I thought connecting to the airbox might give better feedback, and the vacuum would not be too great, but a complete remapping might be necessary. I don't know for sure, but I think the ECU has built in throttle pump emulation. So, it was not deliberately mapped over rich. Could be an interesting experiment. It would be good to do it with a WBO2 sensor. The deceleration could be a problem. I would expect lean popping.

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