dlaing

Huh!?! What is your point? Master of the obvious! I disagree.

Excellent question! For closeloop an EGT sensor would probably be useless. Even for the more obvious solution of limiting temperature, it could do the opposite of what you intend. For example you could set it to back off timing or enrichen to keep it cool, but the reason it is hot may not be too hot of combustion, but rather fuel getting burnt in the exhaust pipe raising the exhaust temperature. A much better purpose would be to use it for data logging on the road. It should be combined with data from WBO2 and CHT sensors. With a combination of AFR and the two temperature datas one can have a better idea where to go with fueling and timing. More so than AFR it is heat that makes power, and heat that burns valves. You can control the heat with timing and fuel. Maintaining consistent heat at the Cylinder head and at the exhaust combined with good AFR numbers will result in an engine that makes good power. Sure you would be better off if you have a multi-gas analyzer and hours of dyno time to maximize power at every spot on the map, but logging heat and AFR can get you headed in the right direction. Logging up hill runs is especially useful as map positions can be maintained long enough to get a better idea of what is happening with temperature. On the road it may be impossible to replicate what you can do on a dyno, but it is also impossible to replicate on the dyno, all that you can do on the road. Using the seat of your pants to measure power, your hands to measure vibration, and your ears to measure knock can also be helpful, but only in a very limited way.

I stopped by there and they seemed like a good honest shop. I was told they have a cappucino bar, but I did not notice it. I have bought a few things from the nearby Harley dealer and no doubt I agree with Skeeve, they seem to run a business right! Polite. Professional. Friendly. Didn't make me feel unwelcome ordering Buell parts for my Guzzi. If the Oceanside Vespa Guzzi ever sells a Piaggiao Hybrid, I may buy it from them. I noticed they were recently advertising in craigslist, but then pulled the ads...probably after selling out!

I do it in metric and utilize the .10, .15, .20, and .25. I try to use the pull it like pulling a bookmark through a large dictionary method, combined with verification that one size larger won't go in, without force, and one size smaller goes in too easily. That probably is not as accurate as a good set incremented every .001", But it is good enough when you consider we can't even agree what specs to use. How do you utilize the .005" & .007" feeler gauges? Do you not use the .006"? I am pretty obsessive about balancing the left and right, and I think I get them set to with .01mm of each other, left to right, and exaust and intake are better than .05 + or - .01mm from one another. But as for being within .001" of a master machinist's measurement, I hope I am that accurate, but I sure can't guarantee it. Take any two of us amateur wrenches and all bets are off as to being within .001" of one another, especially after trying to tighten down the locknut without throwing off the setting.

Symptoms do stink of eau de petrol. If you replace the electric fuel petcock with a manual petcock which we can almost perfectly guarantee won't repeat the problem. Intermittent rpm sensor problem is very difficult to determine. Maybe TechnoResearch of AxeOne software can show failure???????? But not likely. If sidestand switch is failing, waiting 15 minutes should not help it start, but otherwise, it could be a problem. If it fails to start in Neutral, the problem is not the sidestand switch. (or rather not only, as it could be more than one problem.) Clutch switch should also be immune to 15 minute wait. If it happens again, hold in starter switch and move clutch in and out repeatedly. If it starts it may indicate bad clutch switch. Also, try holding in clutch and starter button and move steering from side to side. If it starts it could be bad harness connection. EDIT ...and as Kevin says below, if failing it only prevents starting, it does not prevent running after the engine has started. Sorry I missed that important point. Setting the TPS can have a profound effect on a happy idle. Please re-do a proper tune up. As for the TPS sensor, when doing the TPS tuneup watch the voltage as throttle is actuated. Voltage should rise smoothly, and defects will probably be apparent. Sounds like you have no tank suck. 4 thou (0.1mm) inlet and 6 thou, (0.15mm) is US Spec so you might try 6 thou (0.15mm) inlet and 8 thou, (0.20mm). Since problem seems heat related, valves could be too tight, even if at "stock" One man's 6 thou could be another man's 7 thou, so try looser than what you have it set to now. Relays could still be the problem, or the connections. Cleaning and protecting connections with silver conductive goop might do the trick.

I think it has potential, especially for large castings, and maybe complex castings. Your buyers would have to weigh all the properties. What Temper is obtained? How do you anneal it? How expensive would it be? Strength? Machinability? Weldability? etc. Maybe you can find someone who has used your idea and sue them

This conversation started with an unknown aluminum, not necessarily Home Depot scrapolla. He was having trouble bending it which might suggest that it is a tempered alloy. If so, annealing could be easier than finding a suitable mold slightly smaller than the oval muffler or hoping that the metal is not T851. Nobody is arguing against going to Home Depot and doing what you and Ratchet suggest. I am just trying to get a better understanding of this, and preventing possibly misleading statements about quenching the aluminum when trying to anneal it. Sorry you don't find that important. And also sorry Nog hasn't convinced me of the wisdom of quenching. Speaking of quenching, I need a break...

If you buy Tuneboy you can tune it to go, BEER BEER when idling and BBBBBEEEEEEEEEERRRRRRRRR when WOT

No, I do my best to keep the politics separate from the Guzzi related. I suspect you are the one having trouble separating your fellow members from their politics.

Some of these newer bikes scare me with there closed loop sensor dependency and fly by wire daring. I hope Guzzi takes the higher road. The new bikes have improved the oil sump and feel smoother, which is probably a good thing But adding on board computers and replacing the wire harness with data cables makes me uneasy. Maybe if the onboard computer could tell you when your sensor is faulty, it would be valuable, but that is not likely to work well as you generally need a meter to test a meter.

I don't know what this silver oxide paste is, but Arctic Silver is designed as a thermal conductor. The electrical conductivity is supressed so as not to short out the circuits, but the primary design is heat conductivity. Electrical conductivity is not relevant. http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm To make in non-conductive some thermal properties may have been slightly compromised, but I would not worry about it. Copper anti-seize will do the trick for less money. Determining if it works better or worse is anyone's guess. I suppose trial and error might find the perfect compound to enhance the stock mapping.

Time = Money Money = root of Evil Thus Time = root of Evil No Time to ride V11S = Evil Time Squared = New Years Eve = No Time to ride V11S But, V11S = Timeless = No Root of Evil = happy forum = happy moths = holey wool sweaters = no money Capice?

I did read, but you were not specific, cretin. The tube solution kept my V65 gear oil from spewing all over the rear tire.

On my V65 I popped the cap off of the gear box vent, attached a hose, ran it up just a few inches and arched it over. It helped greatly. Some recommended a catch bottle, but it was not necessary.

Excellent question! I know with the engine crankcase, all those running the oil up at the top of the sump are losing some HP, but I have no idea how much. How much of the loss would be windage, and how much crankcase pressure, I could only speculate. Mr. Ratchet on the other hand has claimed he felt more power through reduction of windage. As for the transmission, case pressure is a none issue, but fluid friction is an issue. Fluid friction can increase heat and decrease power. The factory recommended levels are probably fine.

very funny But seriously, there are a bunch of M6 bolts that hold the sump to the engine case. It is probably an M6, not an M4. Here is a photo by Greg Santa Field from his installation of a MotoModa shloppage shleet.

OK, we can assume your penis is intact. In fact your choices have turned out better than mine and are certainly practical. I sure would like a $200 XD-16, but compared to the DB or G gauges it is hard for me to justify the expenditure. The built in LCD panel on the LM-1 is good enough for me, but you certainly can't read it while riding in daylight, so I'll be completely reliant on the logging, accept at idle. So far I hooked up the TPS for logging, but not the RPM. But my A:F was off the chart. I hope the new sensor will fix that. Have you tried hooking up the TPS and RPM and logged?

paypal and the post office are getting rich off of us! I bought my LM1 second hand from eBay for $200. It arrived with a cable missing, and I learned that if you are too patient with the seller you don't get a chance to leave bad feedback. It then took me a year to get around to buying a new cable $5 +$15shipping. It did not work right, so I waited another year and now the $70 +$10 shipping sensor is on order with the hope that it will fix it. Looking at the Innovate forums the symptoms indicated a bad sensor....I hope it is that simple as I approach the price of a new LM1. According to the Innovate forum the problem could also be my engine...but I doubt it. It seems to calibrate just fine, so there is hope.

Hi George, That bracket looks nice! Show us more as it progresses! What are you going to do about the acrylic/polycarbonate screen?

So, the $99 Innovate gauge might not have been good enough?If you had an LM-1 you probably could have narrowed that quite a bit more. But the XD-1/16 looks cool (just kidding....go with whatever floats your boat. If I had more money I would get a nice gauge, too.) Now if I could just get the LM-1 to work after two years...The second sensor is on order and it better work darnit!!!!

Thanks! It makes me want to replace all that plastic!!!

The site I posted has a process for annealing that involves no quenching and slow cooling and a process for hardening that involves quenching, and controlled aging only if a temper other than T4 is desired. I think Ryland was completely correct when he said: The result of your recommended quenching easily could be T4, right? While if one did not quench, there is a greater chance a mysterious alloy would be more bendable after heating, right?

Thanks BFG! That is good evidence that the pin does something!!! Does it have a lock nut? Maybe it needs thread locking compound??????

Very nice! I have to visit there, Joshua Tree, and Grand Canyon. Shamefully have barely explored San Diego.

I wonder if they are alienating a good part of their potential market? Like wings, I know my desire to optimise my fueling goes well beyond practical. But maybe some will trade in their wings for bling-o-licious gauges