dlaing

http://www.suppliersonline.com/propertypages/2014.asp " Hardening is accomplished by a precipitation heat treatment at 935 F followed by water quench. This produces T4 temper." I am not sure if the above statement contradicts your statement, but it seems to. I am sure there could be an explanation for both statements being true.

My recommendations are here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...c=5488&st=0 The most bang for the buck seems to be the HyperPro, Wilbers and Hagon. I went with Penske for the quality, rebuildability, and the fact that they were the only ones that could be built almost to my desired dimensions, other than Ohlins.

I like that idea! There is also the addition of an extra U-joint. If you could give us a rough idea of the weight difference and any impressions of a smoother ride it would be appreciated!

Nice work, Ratchet! Better than FBF's

Excellent question! Maybe it prevents the pawl from somehow getting flung into a bind. Or maybe it was part of an alternative spring/pawl design that did not break, had sweeter shifts, but cost too much!!!!

Another excellent post My contention has been that if the spring is binding, an extra mm of play could make a major difference, (failure after 50,000 miles instead of 26,500 miles) but if you found that 20 to 30 thousandths of an inch is ideal because it shifts better, I'll go with that. But being the resident nitpicker I am curious as to what other settings you had tried and gotten error. If binding seemed to be an issue, I would be inclined to go with the largest (doh!) smallest setting that worked well. Trial and error is a major pain, so I suspect you did not try many settings. On my bike I saw no indication that it was even close to binding, so it does not effect me, but for others it can be an issue.

An excellent overall point

I agree with all of that except: "If you have the acorn nut adjuster set properly to get balanced action on both up and down shift, and if your trans has one, adjust the limiting eccentric to get full throw in both directions. The pawl will still wind up the spring tight enough to fatigue it on the downshift." Of course the only evidence I have is a little over 40,000 miles without a broken spring. It could be fatiguing but I can't tell and won't likely care till it breaks. But dang it, I am approaching the number of miles that docc has. I thought most of the failures are related to the spring binding on the boss, but I could be wrong. Maybe we need a poll to determine why most failed? I am sure the number that will fail for other reasons will increase as more people put miles on these bikes.

I disagree, but yah it has been a long time since I opened the box, and I never noticed this eccentric adjuster, so maybe I am wrong and it does not limit the travel, but DOCC says it touching on both the up and down shifts. Since it is touching on the down shift where the angle is greatest, it is limiting the angle from getting any greater, right? The only other limiting factor is in the channel effected by the eccentric under the acorn nut.

The eccentric adjustment should be used to balance the return home of the pawl, and not be used to limit the travel of the pawl. But what could be happening is that it is limiting the travel of the pawl on either the up or down shifts, and then in the opposite direction to the one that is limited it is allowing the travel to be limited by the binding of the spring around the boss. This probably occurs because the symmetrical springs are not perfectly balanced, throwing the pawl's home position off center so that the eccentric under the acorn nut must be used to balance the forces. Because it is not centered well enough, the spring binds before being limited on either the up or down shifts. That is my theory and I am sticking to it! But yah, I could be wrong. It is a little hard to believe that it would limit it enough to make a difference, but you never know.

very nice card. Merry Christmahanukwanzaakkahsolstice and a Happy New Gregorian New Year!

I didn't know cars had sexual preferences. According to this article they can't, but their owners can. http://gaylife.about.com/od/gayproductreviews/a/cars2007.htm Apparently Subarus are good for Lesbians. Looks like a damn fine car. I like the transformer effects. If I were to to get one it would be in manly silver or metallic graphite. Do gays like manly colors? No doubt, there is genius behind your madness!

Congrats! I think it is a smart purchase. For the same money you might find a discounted and stripped Subaru. No doubt the Subaru is more car, but you will pay a little more for it over the years in insurance, fuel, and repairs. Probably not a big difference but if you have kids to feed, Guzzis to pour money into, etc., the Suzuki is a smart decision. People I know who have bought Suzuki Sidekicks and their predecessors have been happy with Suzukis. I did not know about the FIAT connection...that is worrisome

Good points!It looks to me as if spring will be tightest and most likely to bind when the arm approaches the cam. Although the spring looks like it may loosen on upshifts and tighten on downshifts, assuming that it follows the same line. On downshifts the lever may move away from the eccentric adjuster and so that the adjuster has no effect on the binding issue. But if it is limited by the adjuster on downshifts, you might be able to prevent binding by adjusting it. But what do I know, I had no idea that adjuster even existed!?! I am surprised nobody has brought this up before. So, what happens on the downshifts?

How-to save your back when lifting a fallen motorcycle http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...331&hl=lift

Merry Christmas and a better new year to all!

Maybe I am not following correctly. When I took the cover off I thought that the purpose of the eccentric cam was to limit travel, but then I realized that it was to balance the spring force. Position of the cam is essential to good shifting. If one blows downshifts but not upshifts, or blows upshifts but not downshifts, it is an indication that the screw is out of adjustment. If you adjust it so much that the travel is limited, I think you will find that you will be blowing a lot of shifts. I could be wrong, but I doubt it.

I think one of these should be accurate enough to determine maximum EGT. http://www.zeitronix.com/order/order.htm#EGT There might be a little lag time, so results may vary between steady rpm/load tests and acceleration tests....or not Maybe Innovate offers something, too??? These are supposed to be compatible with Innovate products: http://www.exhaustgas.com/ProductDetail.as...tID=&RepID= I plan on logging the stock engine temperature sensor output, A:F, rpm, tps, and maybe air temp and air pressure....someday.

The charts also support the lean is cool and will give you good gas mileage theory. These charts are still missing dimensions n and alpha. I would guess they are discussing a cruising speed at maybe 2/3 of.100)maximum throttle and RPM. But notice they mention a richer mixture (.100) for takeoff. What would be important to see is the Guzzi twin diagram with CHT, EGT, mixture, rpm, and TP. And then see the effects of timing and fueling.

That is strange. I was sure that it should work with warning bulb removed, and the likely reason for failure is the polarity. Anybody have any ideas why removing the warning light, incandescent in front, and LED in rear, would not work? I give up, but now that you have all four LEDs hooked up, perhaps try removing the warning bulb, and logic will be defied and it will work! Good Luck!

Here are some other interesting charts. A little hard to read, but worth the effort... They came from another interesting avionic article, seemingly from the same school of thought as the first article. http://www.amtonline.com/publication/artic...d=1&id=1171 On our bikes I think we would face two specific problems if we want to optimize for power and efficiency. One is that our engine is not likely to be well balanced between the cylinders, so it likely won't run smoothly in the lean economy zone. The other is that unlike an airplane engine, smooth transitions of power and drivability are very important. The transition from maximum power to maximum economy, while bypassing maximum temperature is not likely to work smoothly, assuming maximum economy is even ridable. But maybe I am wrong, and it can be done with acceptable smoothness?????? It would be nice to be able to flick a switch and jump to maximum economy for long stretches of highway. One other thing I noticed browsing for info, is that many people state with authority that maximum EGT occurs at 14.7:1. I believe it occurs much closer to maximum NOx production. Whatever, I'll probably just keep running rich unless I buy an EGT sensor. I still have to get my WBO2 working....

Two possibilities come to mind. 1) alternator puts out less than 14.7V, so you might need to give it a proper charge every now and then. 2) temperature. See chart in post 97 of this thread http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...90&start=90

Where do you suppose maximum CHT and EGT are on this chart? My guess is maximum CHT is at about 15:1 and maximum EGT is at about 16:1. Some things to keep in mind are that critical temperature can be considered more related to load than mixture. Also timing has an effect too. I'd like to see more data!!!

Wow! I did not realize that there were so many optional gadgets for the PCIII. Did you also get the Wideband Commander?

Good recommendations. I think you mean 10.5kg/mm rear. Just to throw in my nit-picking two cents, if I weighed 300lbs, I might shoot for just a little more, like maybe 1.10kg/mm front and 11kg/mm rear (about 600or 625lb/inch rear). In any case you will do much better than stock if you increase the spring rate above stock.