dlaing

G'day Bruce, I still think you got the polarity wrong at the rear lights. The Guzzi assembly line does not care about getting the polarity correct, since they are sold with incandescent bulbs. Turn off the ignition, open one of the rear turn signal lamps, pull out the LED bulb, get an ohm meter, and test for ground. The socket should be grounded, not the centered bulb contact. If the centered bulb contact is grounded and the socket is not, then you need to reverse the wiring. The other possible possibility is that you are putting the bulb in wrong. But I am not sure if that is possible. For the rear brake it is very possible, but I have never changed a turn signal bulb, so I don't know what type of bayonet socket it uses. If you want to retain the dashboard turn signal indicator, you need to do what the others suggested, but you need to get past this other hurdle first, because it should work with the four LEDs, and LED flasher and no dashboard turn signal indicator.

Sorry! I thought it was a fuel map comparison

That should work, unless the wiring diagram is wrong. Did you get the polarity wired correctly at the front?

Thanks Raz! Any chance we could compare timing maps?

The EPA are the ones that pushed for pollution control standards that have resulted in better health for millions of people. Bunch of idiots have opposed them every step of the way. Back in the sixties, before the existence of the EPA, California'a green weenie governors, Pat Brown and Ronald Weenie Reagan signed bills that forced car manufacturers to clean up the emissions at the tail pipe. The smog pump, and other technologies that introduced air into the exhaust, allowed the automotive industry to give us cleaner air out of the tail pipe. It actually does work, by adding oxygen to hot exhaust gases, unburned hydrocarbons can burn in the exhaust system, and CO can be reduced. Advances in emissions control have improved since then, making the smog pump obsolete. But this does not mean it did not work. Also, the need to reduce NOx may have had a part in the smog pump becoming obsolete.

I'd trade my bike for a Burgandy and Silver Centauro in a heart beat! Bellissimo! I was not concerned about the bend around the wheels, but around the tensioner. But if that did not catch your attention, it is probably fine. If I were to design it, I would run the chain around the intake, and use a free wheel for the tensioner.

Really?!? When I had the 40mm forks, I recall that the compression adjustment had an effect all the way through the stroke, and that backing the compression adjuster all the way gave the smoothest ride. I was going to suggest that the blue nut inside was off from the recommended setting, but assuming you are correct, the behavior ONETHUMPER is observing is normal.

...not all of them

When you adjust the compression damping do you notice a change?

I have not read the latest documentation, but I noticed he is finally advertising the Guzzi version, but still without the diagnostic.... Are you sure all the maps refer to pulsewidths and not percentile modification of pulsewidths? So, if the barometric correction is -50 it subtracts 50 at idle and at WOT near redline? That would create major problems, well beyond that of no compensation for dead time, right?

Very good explanation. I did not understand or agree until you explained it that way. I don't know if the 15M has such compensation. Wayne might know?

Huh? Do you not see the picture? Here is the link: http://www.webbikeworld.com/BMW-motorcycle...linder-head.jpg The bend that bothers me is through the chain tensioner.

Maybe I am wrong, but I foresee cam chain problems What do you think? Is it OK to make the chain take a bend like that?

Since the rubbers are not chromoly hard, nor even ebonite hard, But maybe the friction disk could be improved on???? What I wonder is; did Luigi plan this to have an ideal damping effect? Assuming Luigi is a faithful worshipper of Dry Clutches, dry is probably how he intended it, and for it to wear substantially might take 300,000 miles. In Luigi I Trust. (sometimes)

I am assumed the engineers new what they were doing. My Mistral mufflers are not very different than the Ti mufflers. I assumed the Ti ECU SHOULD better match my setup, but you say they are nearly identical. I don't recollect that from reading your analysis, but that was a long time ago.

I don't think so. What is injector dead time? From what I understood of the documentation, the fuel charts show the milligrams of air, and increasing the number increases the injector open duration to make the fuel proportional to the air. But some of the charts are simply modifiers. Total pulse time is a product of several charts. But I don't know what dead time is.

The forum has a filesharing thread where you can up/download maps http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1020

I don't know. Interestingly, when I tried the Ti Map it ran well accept in the area where it is different. Not that it had trouble idling, just a lot of popping in that area. Luhbo did a great comparison with Excel spread sheets. You might PM him for them if interested, or I might find my copy that he gave me and share it. I might try the Ti map again, now that I know the TPS at idle setting should be varied.

So I finally popped open the cush drive. I only had to chisel and impact hammer out one screw. Inside the friction disk was clearly greased, and Cracked! So, I should order a new one. The core was greased. (interesting grooves) Not a hint of rust. The rubbers had some grease on them but it could have been fed from the greased core. I pressed on the rubber with a screw driver and estimated the durometer at about 60-70A. No I don't have a durometer, but it was harder than my motorcycle tire, and softer than a 75A skateboard wheel. I wedged one in a door and it compressed very nicely. Probably about 50% compression with maybe one pound of force on the 30inch door. Anybody want to calculate the foot pound of rear wheel torque and how much pressure it would exert on each rubber? I imagine it will squish nicely without drilling. I saw no reason to drill, but out of respect to all those that claim an improvement, I made a compromise and I drilled all the deceleration rubbers, but only one drill hole, 5/32", going from outer circumference of the pie towards the center, but not all the way through. This should provide a hair more movement when nearly locking up the rear tire and create a small 'air spring' / 'air damper'!!!! If the rubber had been approaching 100A or even 90 durometers, then I would have considered a softer cush made of urethane, but there is no need as the rubber is soft enough, and is holding up fine. If it was around 80A, I would have drilled it more. Anyway, I added some silicone grease to the rubbers and put mobile one synthetic grease on the core and on the friction disk. Despite the previous lube from either the factory or the wise benevolence of my dealer who has not touched it in 30,000 miles, the friction disk appeared to be wearing into the metal plates, so lubing seemed to be the sensible thing to do. I do think the friction disk's purpose is to dampen the cush, otherwise it should have been made of a bearing surface like nylon or bronze. As the rubbers are compressed, they expand, pressing the drive vane against the friction disk. Even lubed, it should function like a wet clutch. Simply brilliant! But I am sure most of you will remain skeptical. The next step is the test ride. The drilling was very minimal, but it is now better lubed, so I may notice smoother downshifts, etc., but it may also be bouncier.

The map from my 2000 V11 non cat and the map from a Ti ECU I'd like to see the 16M maps

This is my favorite desert roundabout. Sure beats waiting for Red Lights in the hot sun. http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&...c=addr&om=1

Have you checked bike prices lately? That bike is right in the league of the Ducati1098 or 1098S for value (not equal for race track). The MSRP of the 1098 is US $15,995; the 1098 S is priced at $19,995 while the 1098 R is $39,995 What does Guzzi have that compares to that? $26,000 MGS01 that is not even street legal?!? The $15,000 pig heavy Norge!?! The already outdated Griso 1100 at 13,500??? The 1200Sport? The Griso QuatroValvole is getting closer to the same value, but still falls short and it is not available in the US. When it gets here, it will probably be close to $15,000. What I don't like about the HP2 Sport is the riding postion. Heels inches from ass on hard saddle, and wrists aching from fat geezer's weight bearing down. But for a shorter more athletic rider, it should be fine. The R1200S is more my fit, and not a bad deal. I tried to test one at the Cycle Show today but I got there too late to reserve one. I test rode a Vectrix electric scooter, http://www.vectrix.com/ which was a blast. It is a hefty $11,000 and only goes 100km/h. I hope Piaggio's hybrids are less expensive.

If the battery is labled Spark500, ytx15L-bs, ytx9-bs or Hawker Odyssey PC 545, it is a VRLA AGM battery (valve regulated lead-acid battery with Absorbed Glass Mat) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Absorbed_Glass_Mat Regarding the Deltran charger, you might be interested in the information in this thread http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...t=0&start=0

I really like the R1200S and the full line of F800s. I must test ride! I don't even want to think about the HP2 as it is unobatainiable.

You can test by voltage, but you need to eliminate residual charging charge by letting sit overnight. Also, you are supposed to adjust slightly for temperature From the Hawker guide: 12.84 at 100% 12.50 at 75% 12.18 at 50% 11.88 at 25% Here is an interesting thread http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...awker&st=15 Ryland made a good post at post 17 and many others, Gary Cheek made many great posts, and as a result of their intelligence, I came up with