dlaing

Huh!?! Where do you get this information? I suppose it depends on how you define lifetime polluter. Two strokes sure can stink. Following old Vespas down the road is worse than following old British bikes. But the life time of your average 2 cycle motorbike might only be 10,000 miles, and it weighs a little less than a car, so it is not a fair comparison to a car. Comparing an electric scooter to a 2 stroke scooter might be more fair. My dream is to have solar powered electricity charge an electric motorcycle. Right now, both are too expensive, despite the Government created incentives. Since they are such expensive technologies, are they really better for the environment? If the motorcycle costs twice as much as regular one, and solar system costs 50,000 or whatever before tax breaks and rebates, does it mean it is good by creating jobs or does it mean more pollution hidden in the cost of production? Not just the lead of the batteries and the energy costs for the factories, but also the employees that make the products need to consume too and we know consumers pollute. Ideally I would love to see a tyrannical requirement for solar panels on the roof tops of every new house built in SoCal, but I would like to see the numbers crunched to prove that it really is significantly greener. The right and left wings probably have different sets of numbers. Imagine the toxic emissions of the solar panels burning during the recent so cal fires. Would that be greener? Or are they made of metal and heat resistant glass, and are more fire resistant than the composite shingles????

Thanks for reminding me about that. In that thread, you had taken some readings: I did not realize that cold idle pressures were so strong. Since this is the case, I can conclude that my concern over too high of a bypass pressure is likely unwarranted. Clearly cold oil at idle will bypass even a 30PSI filter. The pump only has trouble generating pressure at high temperatures. So, the only possible threat to too high of a bypass pressure would be a clogged filter. I can't imagine a filter getting that clogged in under 6000 miles with synthetic oil. I used to run Castrol GTX(S) in my V65 and that would build up sludge in the pan, and I would suppose in the filter, too. But everytime I pull the pan on my V11, it does not pass a white glove test, but it is close to passing. I wonder how long we can use the filters? 12,000 miles? 18,000 miles? With the price of the best oils, it is worth changing the filter,just to ensure a more complete oil change. Still, I am curious how long it would take to clog a filter with a 30PSI bypass to the degree that it would be a problem. But getting back to the self changing oil filter issue, Ryland measured 80PSI with 15W40 at about 0

Happy Thanksgiving!

Que Surprise! I disagree. And I agree with Ryland's emailing Pete as you are with 100% certainty undermining Pete's credibility and Pete deserves a response! It would not at all be unexpected for Guzzi to do it differently than your diagram indicates. I found another diagram that also showed a similar arrangement except the filter was off to the side passively filtering the oil, while oil passed unfiltered between sump and bearings. I suppose that is the design needed if the filters do not incorporate a bypass valve. But still it showed that there is more than one way to do it. The Guzzi Lubrication System is likely a result of changing strategies through the years. This google book preview of Mick Walker's Moto Guzzi Twins Restoration gives a good break down of some of the changes. http://books.google.com/books?id=h9XfM0Vjb...TigjU#PPA102,M1 Walker does not really answer our question, but he does say on page 101-102 that the pressure relieve valve allows the oil to bypass the filter and continue circulating if the filter becomes clogged. In order for that to happen your diagram would not indicate the way a Guzzi is designed. But maybe the author is wrong??? On a side issue, the PDF that you posted said, "If the filter has been installed on the tight side, the gasket may not blow out and the lockseam will unwind as the pressure continues to rise." Sound familiar?!? Maybe Guzzis are prone to pressure regulation issues. Now I really want Ryland to get together an oil pressure gauge kit!

yah, you probably already new about this...but it it new to me. Google has a book search engine that offers previews of select books. Here is a Guzzi book with a very extensive preview: http://books.google.com/books?id=h9XfM0Vjb...XdTigjU#PPP1,M1 http://books.google.com/

I know, it does not show anything conclusive, but here is something to keep the speculation going. 21 is the thermostat and 12 is the pressure relief valve gobble gobble

In all the manuals that I could find an entry, they say the TPS should be set to 150mV

In addition to twisty roads, the Tennisti have the class to mince words, while the Scuristi are crass louts. I too, may be a crass lout, but I do not give in to the dark side.

Just for an attempt at clarity, there are two different TPS setting points in the tune up process, one at idle and one with linkage disconnected and throttle butterfly closed to minimum, no set screws or cold start assistant impeding it. The TPS for all the V11 six speed spines with the Marelli 15m should be set to about 150mV, with linkage disconnected and throttle butterfly closed to minimum, no set screws or cold start assistant impeding it. The idle TPS readings vary depending on which instructions you read. The idle should be set to the recommended RPM and the TPS should read whatever is recommended for that bike, but the TPS should not be adjusted at idle. The idle should be adjusted to obtain the correct idle TPS reading. The manuals are not clear about what TPS reading each model should have at idle, so be sure to set the fully closed TPS reading to 150mV and then set the idle and air-bypass screws to whatever works well. Bypass screws should PROBABLY be somewhere between one half and one full turn out. Idle should be about 1150RPM, but documentation on what the idle RPMs should be set to, is inconsistent, and there is no definitive fixed number for the turns out on the bypass screws, although one half turn out is mentioned. If someone could come up with a list of recommended idle TPS readings per bike, that would be appreciated!

RIDE ON! Thanks for the fine post!

I don't know what to say. I know, SoCal hooligans don't play well with others... In any case, you will be missed, unless of course you feel less crabby and come back, and then you won't be missed, right? See you at an upcoming event.

As far as I know, there are no O2 sensors or Cats on the California V11 spine frames, but I don't know for sure. Todd would know.

I prefer the idea of road tuning with a WBO2 data logger and then modifying with Tuneboy, but your suggested method should work fine, too. 1. Many people are happy just doing step 1. 2. the tuneboy or the PCIII can tweak fueling at cylinders, but neither can tweak timing separately at each cylinder (just making sure you know that) 3. Yep could get expensive. If you could find someone who will map directly to the ECU the dyno time will be more expensive, but you can save over $300 by not buying a PCIII. Of course if you use the PCIII once and then sell it, it could save dyno time and the full $300 is not lost. 4. Excellent idea, but check with Tuneboy about using .djm map 5. It is one of the most reliable electronic devices ever built, but still a potential problem, so I concur.

Tuneboy has worked fine for me. The biggest pain was getting the key. If I recall correctly, I had to hook the computer to the ECU, create a special file, email it to Tuneboy, wait a day, and then they sent me the key. How do you get a Direct Link key? The PCIII interpolation feature of the TuneBoy that I have only translates one type of PCIII map. If I recall correctly it only translates the .map files of the Serial PCIII and not the .djm (or whatever they are called) files from the PCIII USB. There is a process using Microsoft Excel or a similar application so that you can use to translate a .djm to a .map. To confirm the accuracy of the conversion, convert back from .map to .djm using the tool in the PowerCommander USB software. You might check with Tuneboy regarding which PCIII file Tuneboy supports. Tuneboy can also use Tuning Link directly, but only, as Todd points out, if you find a willing dyno tuner.

Thanks for the comments. I doubt the iridium would ping less as was suggested. If you believe the hype, http://www.globaldenso.com/PLUG/power/features.html then it does produce a better spark, produces more HP and gets better fuel consumption, then I would suspect the engine would be running hotter and be more prone to pinging. But less carbon build-up might also reduce pinging, so maybe I am wrong. I believe the advertising hype for the iridium plugs is exaggerated, but still carries some truth. I can only imagine the improvement in efficiency being a fraction of what they suggest, but you never know. I also thought a hotter plug made the piston hotter as the piston reaches TDC, and thus faster combustion, but maybe I am misinformed. As for valve adjustments every 6000 miles, I disagree because I see changes just about every time I check the valves, especially lately, probably because my valves are deforming. But maybe if I ran at .20/.25 instead of .15/.20 the setting would last longer. You made more power backing off the timing 3 degrees. I think that would be better way to reduce pinging. Did you back it off everywhere?

Yah, the backdoor is to email them. Currently the Guzzi product is only the mapping sofware, but if a few people email him, he might be motivate to complete the data logging and diagnostic software. sales at tuneboy.com.au I believe they are for the most part a husband and wife operation. Wayne is the product developer.

I posted screenshots of Tuneboy's TuneEdit for anyone interested. http://profile.imageshack.us/user/dlaing/ This version of TuneBoy may soon be outdated when Wayne creates a newer version.

I can't believe this rare bike of our's has so many choices! All of the options can modify fueling to to each cylinder separately, except for the discontinued PCIII Serial. The PCIII USB can map them separately. I was a little unsure about the TuneBoy's ability to map the cylinders separately because it did not come with clear documentation, but the map I suspected would do it is the one map that seems to correspond well with Motoguzzinix's O2 readings across both cylinders. Which cylinder does this map effect? I don't know. I'll bet the Direct link is a little better, but in the manual they call the cylinder maps front and rear instead of left and right. Once hooked to the ECU it may know better, or not. Looking in my downloaded PCIIIUSB software, I could not find the second cylinder map, but I know it is available. It may require a pre-existing map mapped to two cylinders. As for timing, all of the options except PCIII can do timing. Some PCIIIs can do timing, but not on Guzzis.

The alternative is to remap the ECU from the following http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/8966/tb...ginetempur5.gif

From another thread Greg posted the following that got me thinking... Looking at the maps above it might make sense to set the idle TPS to 1.99

You mean the low speed fuel metering, not low speed mixture, right?

Jeff in Ohio suggested that the ECU has about 17 steps at each cell. I certainly don't know for sure, but I would assume interpolation does happen, and doubt a flag would kill it. I did get the chart names backwards. I had not noticed that both map titles had the work Ti in them, and typed without fully reading. That must be why the 3.66