dlaing

It will be good to have another goose in San Diego! You'll have to go on a Sonny Angel ride sometime. In addition to all us Guzzi riders, you might hit it off with Sonny Angel's son in law, who jumps out of Rescue helicopters. I recall he is Navy, but I might have that wrong. Still a nice guy for a Yamaha rider, and to you maybe a brother other than a Guzzi brother. Guzzis seem to attract more Navy than Marines around here, maybe that is just GP and Sonny's proximity to the Navy Stations. Thanks for being part of the effort that saved many dollars, homes and probably a few lives, too.

I suspect but can't verify that the spacer from a Ducati 748/916/996/998 would work. The width between bearings is critical, and probably is the same, but manufacturing tolerances are always at risk of preventing a match. You could buy one, than if it is too long have it cut down by a machinist. If it is too short it would be useless. I think everyone on the forum that has upgraded to Ohlins has had a custom machined spacer. The spacer should be slightly longer than the space between the bearing fully seated home. Probably about 0.3 mm longer is about right. It must be longer to keep the bearings from mashing down when the axle is torqued. Also, the spacer must be strong enough not to significantly compress under the axle torque.

I am just guessing but the rubber probably becomes tempered and hardened after it cools down from one heat cycle. How big a deal is that, I don't know. Simply braking in to a turn will raise the temperature of the front tire and blazing down the straight would cool and temper the rubber at the surface. Oxygen exposure, especially at high temperatures, should also have a hardening effect on the rubber. Street tires may have chemicals added to reduce oxidation of the rubber Yep, all speculation. Feel free to ignore.

I would have thought relays except for the neutral slowly coming back. Being able to start after a week of sitting sounds like good battery. But being unable to start after a ride sounds like a bad charging system. Check the 30A fuse for signs of melting. The connections between alternator and battery are critical. But if you are on the original battery (spark500), you might want to replace it just for good luck. If bad it could be causing charging problems, too.

You do not deserve a response until you apologize for slandering me.

From Pyro Dan's FAQ 14. I can get relays elsewhere. Got any advice? Make sure any relay you install does not have an internal protective diode. These relays expect coil terminal 86 to be positive and terminal 85 to be negative. Some Guzzi relay sockets are wired the opposite. Installing a relay with a protective diode in these sockets will cause fuses to blow! We do recommend relays with an internal protective resistor. A relay with no diode and no resistor, e.g., Siemens V23073, can be used for the fuel pump and ECU relays on some late model Guzzis because a protective diode is hard wired into the bike's harness. http://www.dpguzzi.com/relay_faq.htm According to Carl A.'s wiring diagram, our bikes are all grounded at the 86 terminal.

I was wrong! You are right! It is a different picture. Sorry, no deceit was intended, again. It still seems to have the camera tilted to the right, to my perspective. Here it is before I rotated the cropped portion with photoshop. Either that turn is banked or the camera is tilting to the right. Why is the near grind point lower than the rear tire contact patch area? I say follow the shadow lines to know what is level.

Do you mean lower tire friction or less rolling resistance? There is no benefit to lower tire friction. I fully agree that less rolling resistance is important on a weak powered engine. But if the engine is downtuned on a modern bike so that the top speed and quarter mile times are the same as an antique racer, I am pretty sure the modern bikes will win on just about any road. I originally said if you made the dyno outputs equal. If that was the case it would depend on the road. If we are discussing cornering speed, I still insist that the modern bike will go around the turn faster. Yes there may be some open radius turns where acceleration through the turn could make a difference, but very few turns. It seems to me your example is an anomaly, or there was some other reason for Bullus' success, like maybe the gravel walled up and created banked turns. And what does it have to do with fat tires?

I photochopped a larger version of the same picture to fit how I see it, not as the drunken photographer saw it. So, yes it is more on the level than the initial shot. Sorry I should have mentioned the photochopping. No deceit intended.

It should not be necessary if you have the GEIs and the headlight relay modification. Of course there are plenty of relays of higher amp rating, but they are larger and won't fit the existing modular sockets. BTW How did you wire in your heated accessories? Directly from battery with a relay trigger from lighting circuit???? Maybe your charging system is on the way out. Perhaps a good excuse to upgrade the regulator with one that Greg Field recommends.

You could try a 5A fuse in place of the 10A fuel injection fuse and see if it blows. Assuming Ryland's amp estimate is correct, then you have something drawing too much current. I keep mentioning a cloggled fuel filter might cause such a problem, but nobody on this forum to my knowledge has ever confirmed a clogged fuel filter causing an electrical problem on a V11. Previous fix of cleaning the kill switch, and the fact that it got worse with the addition of dielectric to the kickstand switch certainly could indicate the cause if of the problem resides somewhere other than at relay. Going over all connections and contacts with silver conductive rather than silicone dielectric could fix it. The relay may have been pushed to its limit by bad connections elsewhere. To test if side stand switch is problem, put the GEI relay back and see if there is a difference in popping between being in gear with clutch pulled in compared to being in neutral. If popping only occurs under load, the suggested test won't work...of course. But if it pops in gear with clutch pulled in and kickstand up, but not in neutral, the side stand switch is the problem

Here is the camera angle lined up with the ground angle. Still pretty impressive, especially considering it was an inline six, which must have been wider than much of the competition. Hailwood used a very upright riding position and must have been very close to running out of tread.

What did Goffredo do to Francesca to make her sing?

Looks to me like Valentino is leaning and hanging much further out. Of course you could narrow my definition of leaning to bike only, and then you would be correct and I would be wrong, as Hailwood's bike is close to Rossi's bike's lean angle. FWIW camera angle seems to indicate Rossi's bike could have a few degrees on Hailwood's bike, thanks to those phat tires. Put Hailwood's tires on Rossi's bike and Rossi would be scraping at that angle, assuming he had not lost grip. Fatter and bigger tires allow greater lean angle of the bike.

Val is clearly pulling more G's rounding the turn with fat tires. Most professional racers today could beat Mike Hailwood and his bike using todays tires and frames even if you reduced today's bikes to the dyno outputs of Hailwood's bike and had Hailwood ride the antiques. The frames and tires have worked together as an evolution, producing better traction and tire longevity, not just for the stop go direction but also for cornering. Power has something to do with the fat tire, but thin tires are used on underpowered bikes more because of rolling resistance, not cornering grip.

Yep, once that kill switch has been hit, you should be able to take your time. Fuel may be leaking out if you IMPROPERLY fixed the sucking fuel tank issue, but don't worry about it. More than once I have shouted, 'Wait!' to friends hurrying to pick up their bikes without waiting for assistance. But damn that video makes me feel stupid that I did not think of using that method. I remember when I was a drunken teenager we used to parallel park VW beetles using that lifting technique, but I never translated it to the motorcycle. Thanks for the enlightening post, Ratchet ....and good comment about putting it in gear, Pierre. I suppose if you can't get to the gear shifter, placing something behind one of the wheels would stop the roll away.

Excellent comparison! Thanks for reinforcing my point Bakelite? Tires back then could be made sticky, but they did not have the technology yet for combining longevity, grip, etc. Or maybe you would like to believe that Hailwood is defying the laws of physics???

I got the four pad calipers and they sure do work better. A little more power and a lot better feel. http://www.guzzitech.com/Brembo-4padcal-Todd_E.html The next upgrade may be the 5.5mm full floaters that Todd mentioned, but I am concerned they may require warm up time. Is the concern warranted? Or is warm up time more dependent on the pads?

Aren't you calling me fat?

That is good news! The house two away from my mother's is on the damaged or destroyed list. Her's is not on the list, so that is good for her, but I am sad for the neighbor. A nice guy with a collection of KTMs.

I think you threw Brian off with the double negative. (technically not double negative, but it could have been phrased more clearly...are you a lawyer? ...just kidding.) I am pretty sure we all agree that Guzzi produces sub-optimally tuned bikes, or am I wide of the mark? Telling someone they are wide of the mark if they don't agree with you is kind of aggressive, not that I would not not not use such words. Brian (and I) should have read carefully the first time.

A Stucchi crossover should get rid of most of the lack of power at 4000. A Mistral crossover will get rid of all of the dip and give you more power at 4000. (EDIT but probably less at high rpm) These crossovers appear to work better with free flowing exhausts. Removing the airbox lid will give you a big bang for the buck, while sacrificing filter media protection and silence. If you get aftermarket exhaust of intake bits, changing the fuel mixture is essential, IMHO. A PCIII will help optimize the power and mixture and it is easy to obtain maps or you dynotune. Re-mapping would be better than re-chipping by Raceco or similar, and potentially better than the PCIII IMHO. TuneBoy and Direct Link are the leading products for that. Cliff Jeffries' ECU is a great option with lots of support for helping you improve the map. Search the forum. Some of the work done by Motoguzznix has been very revealing as have many other dyno charts.

I tried it, and yes it does ping, but only at very heavy throttle, probably up to about 6000rpms. So if all the gas station has is 87 octane, you can certainly(edit maybe I am too optimistic??? All bike vary in their state of tune) make it home, just go easy on the throttle and if you need power keep the revs up.

It is mostly chapparal (not the motorcycle accessory warehouse ) Lots of Chamise, Sage, and Scrub Oak. Some areas have Pine, some Cedar, some Avocado, and many of the burned areas this time are Eucalyptus. Once the fire nears homes the fire gets a fresh choice of landscaping. Palm trees probably aren't too bad to deal with. Cacti and succulents should be used to surround your house as they are flame resistant and meet politically correct standards for water conservation. But I'll bet fireman hate bushwacking through cacti I suppose gravel and rock zeroscaping is the best way to go, but my feng shui garden needs life!