dlaing

That is what we are praying for. The wind has been from the ENE so ideally it will switch to coming from the WSW. Odds are it will switch more to coming from WNW, which is better than it is now, but more threatening to me It does seem to be dying down and locally has switched to blowing from the West. What blows my mind is that the fires can get past the 8 and 10 lane freeways. It seems that there has to be a better way to fight the fires, but don't get me started on the politics I am certainly grateful for the sacrifices made by so many fine people, some of whom hopefully saved my Mom's house Otherwise she may be living with me

If you have a knack for prayers, now is a time to use it. Ratchethack and a few others are very near the paths of the fire, if not in the paths. From what I can tell by the maps, Ratchet's house was missed by one block, saved by Espola Road. Knowing Ratchet, he has probably taken steps to minimize risk. Slowpoke lives further inland and easily could be at great risk. MGDanDiego and Kurt Vogt live near me, and we should be safe unless the wind takes an unpredicted turn.

I checked a few spots near me, and made some mental notes of where to play it "safe". Might as well do that rather than go through life thinking the police are everywhere, always OBEYing the speed limit, or playing russian roulette with the points on my license. But to each their own. OK, so let me rephrase: Be careful, be aware, study those speedtrap locations and be safe! if you so choose, otherwise go ahead and lose them points off your license, and give that revenue to the man.

For some reason I don't think that 110 tire can keep up with what the GP stars are doing. Try to find a picture of Mike Hailwood getting anywhere near close to this lean angle of Valentino Rossi. http://www.raptorsandrockets.com/images/Ro...gello06_03r.JPG There are other reason to select a wide wheel and tire than just power. Grip, image, Longevity, comfort, feel, hydroplaning resistance, resistance to steel deck bridge weave, weight, and other characteristics all come in to play. IMHO a bigger tire has greater longevity, better geometry for resisting touching parts, better grip, better with a heavy load, better comfort, and seemingly better resistance to rain groove weave. A smaller tire can have nearly as good grip when cornering, better hydroplaning resistance, less weight, better fuel mileage if gearing is out of equation, and better feel. Go ahead and disagree. I am certainly open to learn.

Not sure if I can offer much, but if anyone lives East of Interstate 15, SlowPoke? Ratchet? Anyone? and might need to evacuate over the next few days, at least I can offer a little garage space. I am in Mira Mesa. There are other fires raging in California. Give a shout out if you need help. You have got friends on the forum!

There were a few V11s that cracked at the mount point near the Piastra Colleg placement point. I would find it hard to believe those same Guzzis would have cracked at that point if the Piastra Colleg had been in place. My common sense replaces strain gauges and slide rules But then again if it transmits more vibration, who knows? Maybe it would crack more easily, but I doubt it.

A balanced Guzzi is a happy Guzzi

http://www.speedtrap.org/speedtraps/stetlist.asp Be safe.

As an alternative idea, one could fabricate some brackets to run from from the left pork chop to the starter mounting bolts, and from the right porkchop to the case. And then make some bracket like the one on the Japanese site http://www.motolavoro.com/ For a picture of it mounted, try this link http://www.pbase.com/coreyl/image/1284416

But BMW's R1200s only makes about 110 RWHP. While Guzzi could beat that, and produce 120rwhp, I doubt they could do it within the next year without producing an otherwise crappy torque curve like a land speed racer. I would be impressed if they could just break the 100 RWHP barrier in a bike with a nice torque curve, like a Centauro but with more overall power. 1200ccs should make that doable. Dress it up in Monza/MGS sport fairing, etc. and people will be selling their wives so that they can buy it.

Now that you refreshed my memory, it was the FBF's I was thinking of that were from Wiseco, not the the Mike Richs'. But they could both be. Wiseco appears to be the leader in aftermarket pistons

I vaguely recall speculation that they are Wiseco.

Thanks for the clarification. I did read carefully enough. That is good news that you can adjust it so that it does not reduce your turning radius, nor put a load on the damper. I would not worry about setting it to 4 mm at both ends.

As I read it, that means it is working as a steering stop. If it had more than~2 LH and more than ~6RH travel, it would no longer function as a stop, right?

Just in time for the Harley Davidson Halloween Parade Just Kidding, I think it looks great. The orange is not far from Leman I "red".

I hope the unit can handle the force of steering lock duty. Please let us know how you like the effect on handling!

Thanks Phil and Ryland, that makes sense. see you later, I am off to "whack" my battery...but not with a 15+ Volt automotive battery boiler

With our ECU equipped bikes, is there a chance of overheating the ignition coils if you do that? It might be a good idea to use the kill switch when you do that.

I vote misprint. When changing the geometry is limited by how far you can go with the forks and the limited adjustability of the rear end, it is perfectly fine to use sag to adjust the ride height. Yes, you do not want to stray too far from ideal sag, but all you are giving up is travel. Compare the rear travel of a V11 five speed tonti to the travel on the spine frames. We have a lot of travel we can give up in order to obtain a ride height suitable for someone with short legs. But better handling for our bikes SEEMS to be found with the rear end up higher than stock. In my opinion ALdad SHOULD use sag to adjust his rear end height to be higher, although I certainly could be wrong as handling is subjective, and he may prefer a slower turning bike.

Which is better for mid-range is clear in the Doug Lofgren's graph. Note these are two seperate bike, so exact performance differences will vary. Other people who have dyno'd with Mistrals have gotten more high RPM power with Mistrals than this graph indicates. Mistral in Red and Stucchi in Blue. But as for durability, I think it would take years of R&D to answer that. Do V11 five speed Tontis outlast V11 Sixspeed spines? If we knew that, that might give us a clue, but of course differences like the sump and oil cooler might make a difference, too.

Mea Culpa. I obviously took the following post too literally, as well as your defense in the same thread of the 15/30%. Sometimes I forget you argue only to spite me.

Ryland did some testing of the UFI, SuperTech and Purolator and determined that the gasket design allowed for better compression under torque such that it is less likely to unscrew itself while riding. It is also one of the best filters you can buy for other reasons.

Senor Ratchethead recommends 15/30% front and rear. I recommend the following: REAR Sachs 10mm unladen 8.3% 30mm laden 25% FRONT 20mm unladen 16.7% 35mm laden 29.2% MODIFIERS (all are rough guesses or opinions...what is your's) *Racing, subtract 1 to 5 mm from laden sag. *Touring, add 1 to 5 mm to laden sag. *Frequent two up, subtract 1 to 6 mm from rear laden sag, and subtract about half of that from front sag. Note: this is assuming sag is measured without passenger. *Ohlins, add 5mm to rear laden sag. *Progressive springs, add 2mm to laden sag and subtract 1mm from unladen sag. *Short legs, add laden and unladen sag at a ratio of maybe 4mm additional laden for every 5mm additional unladen. (because shock needs to be firmer as travel decreases) *Rider weight greater than 80kg, add 1mm rear laden sag for each additional 20kg, and 1mm front laden sag for each additional 40kg *Rider weight less than 80kg, subtract 1mm rear laden sag for every 20kg less than 80kg and subtract 1mm front laden sag for every 40kg. *Personal preference, (no sag nazis here) add or subtract whatever you want to laden and or unladen sag numbers. wacko.gif Your spring rates appear to be good, although maybe a bit on the firm side, especially at the rear. The rear end feels light an spins coming out of turns, which indicates too firm of a rear end. This leaves me a little perplexed as to the right direction to head in, but I think you will find that a little less rear sag and less rear compression damping should help.

The Lofgren dyno pulls were not done with stock cans. http://www.visi.com/~moperfserv/report.htm Motoguzzix did dyno pulls comparing the crossover while using modified stock mufflers http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...=stock+mufflers