dlaing

I agree, but without re-mapping the fuel you will be pushing it in the direction of running too hot. Yah, it is a ditch pump and can probably take it, but fueling should ideally be optimized for power, keeping a good engine temperature, while optimized for fuel efficiency. A bit of challenge with minimal thermostat controls, still somehow it works. If the fueling is already above stoich, increasing the forced induction will hurt power, possibly efficiency and possibly burn valves. The biggest benefit will be where it is too rich, and more importantly to the thread topic, the biggest gain will likely be at 4000RPM, at the dreaded flat spot. Notice in Greg's chart, the biggest gain in HP is not at 4000RPM but the greatest percentage gain in HP is at about 4000 - 4250RPM, helping to fill that hole. Of course on Greg's bike he has the Mistral cross over that does not suffer from the dreaded flat spot, so it is not the best example for filling the hole. Still it shows that there is more than one way to fill a hole, if only partially. Combine an open airbox lid and a Mistral crossover and the 4000RPM hole is gone....although it may have moved down to 3500RPMs??? Add Skeeves hump flattening, and who knows?????

Welcome back! Like the progress made in airship safety, I think you will find your RM with a little work to be very reliable. Nice photos

Yah, that would be the logical thing to do, but when you are stuck on a bike it is hard to give in to something that makes more sense on paper. Sure some bikes get better gas mileage, and some make more HP, but there is nothing out there like a Guzzi for the riding pleasure. Is there a bike out there with at least the same power over the entire rev range, that gets a real 50MPG (US) with a lead wristed 230lb rider? I considered trading in for a 750Breva, but my experience with the small blocks makes me skeptical that one would last 50,000 miles without major part replacements and engine overhauls, especially considering that the bike would spend so much time at WOT. The suspension and lack of power leave little to be desired. Before I got my bike, I considered the Suzuki SV650. It probably would have been a good choice and I would probably have twice as much money in my bank account right now. But now I am hooked on the V11 and it is difficult to look elsewhere. But if someone gives me $7000 for my bike, I'll buy either a BMW 800 or a Suzuki SV650, or maybe a Ninja twin, just to be green. Think Ratchet, for $7000 you could upgrade your suspension, get some spare parts, and best of all, I'll kiss this forum good buy, so that you will be able to propagandize with no interference from me. What an offer!!!! Please say yes. Maybe some of the others that share your blind seething hatred for me will kick in a few bucks to get rid of me?

Yah, sure optimizing your errand creates more pollution and not less????

1] All that power adds up. Better muffler 3HP, better crossover 2HP, better airbox 4HP, porting 2HP, high compression pistons 1HP, hotter cam 2HP, remap 1HP, total gain 15HP...Now when Ratchet is fighting the trade winds on the way back from Lost Wages, Nevada, he'll top out at 120MPH while Skeeve blows by him at 130MPH, and the stock Hayabusa blows by at 160MPH...and my BigBore V11+ slipstreaming the Hayabusa 2] It will only save you fuel if you don't properly enrichen the mixture, or if it was too rich to begin with. I guess only the greenies know that people are already better optimizing their errands, etc., in an effort to save the planet. Heck I spend nearly as much time here as I do out riding. Nearly 6000 posts, averaging 10 minutes per post, that 60,000 minutes or 1000 hours. On V11 over 40,000 miles averaging 40MPH, thats 1000 hours. Pretty sad for my soul, but good for the environment to enjoy motorcycles on the Virtual Highway that Al Gore took the initiative in Congress to help create.

Even the shutters on the house are Tenni Green! (almost....) I wanted to do my house trim in V11Sport Silver, but my wife vetoed, and we went slightly darker than "Tenni Green" green. I also suggested Scura Black, and that too got vetoed. Tenni Green is definitely a color that chicks and antique racer fans dig

Ratchet's head is buried in the sand somewhere. If you want to build your bike up to the point that it could compete on some roads with a Hayabusa, you just need to do a little suspension work, reinforce the frame, and get this big bore/water cooling kit: http://www.bigbore.it/ Power ouput: 125 CV @ 7500 RPM Maximum torque: 13,5 mkg @ 5750 RPM I think that is still a little short to the power of Hayabusa, but it should be a lot more torque than an R1 and about the same HP. I don't have time to check the numbers... Weight will be heavier than the R1 and with a lot of work could be brought below that of a Hayabusa. http://www.bigbore.it/ Of course if you bore it out, you could argue it is no longer a V11, but Ratchet never argued that point...because I would obviously agree, as the 11 stands for 1100cc. He just talked trash and shows no respect for Guaro's Big Bore MGS01, which you could get your V11 to approach the capabilities of.

What is with the wink there? Is this some kind of white boy lynch mob bigot club?

Your dealer may have either AxeOne or technoResearch software. The Axeone is very expensive from what I recall and I don't know where to buy it. The TechnoResearch is much cheaper and is available from several sources. I did not know the Axeone could read CO. A CO reader can cost as little as $150 US and the Technoresearch software as little as $200 http://www.guzzitech.com/store/TR-VDSTS.html

I was just responding to you following your pattern of organization. If there is any sense of shooting off in all directions, that explains it. You can respond but you choose not to for some reason. I asked who your buddies are? You can answer by giving us a clear image of how you think government should be run. More money for the RICH? the POOR? or you believe in trickle down economics. Describe what justifies a war, especially the Iraq war. And most importantly describe why you don't like bush. I can only figure it is incompetence and not his agenda that fills you with 'blind seething hatred' What is your political philosophy? Why don't you like Bush? Which politicians do you like? Please but don't go shooting off in wild directions.

Here are Phil's comments from last year: So if we compare these notes to Gregs results, apparently the V10 behaves differently than the V11 to modifications, even though the airbox is otherwise the same. Although maybe it is the teardrop shape or the difference between paper and gauss or ????

Why don't you enlighten and surprise us. Your personallity is conservative, pro-war, libertarian-like, yet with no evidence of respect for personal freedom, malicious and arrogant. And you say don't have pro-corporate, anti-human buddies! You keep saying you dislike Dubya and @#$$#! but I don't think I have ever seen you say why. Why do you dislike them? You seem to agree with everything they do. I have no "blind, seething hatred" Your words are hostile, and appear to come from blind hatred of me. Why are you so desperate that you need to resort to these low tactics? No Ratchet, I believe in a better America than that. As I said, there is more than one direction to head in. The better America is in the direction laid out by the constitution, and spelled out by many progressives. The road to take is not the one being paved by your right wing think tanks. Maybe you will be the one headed to the Cayman Islands when a Liberal becomes President....but fret not, they are corporate pawns and will keep the status quo. If only McGovern had become President.... "You know, sometimes, when they say you're ahead of your time, it's just a polite way of saying you have a real bad sense of timing." --George McGovern I did not say you were anti-human. I said, "There are more than two directions. There is the road that your pro-corporate anti-human buddies have us on, and there is any other way but that." Pro-corporate anti-human is a term to describe putting corporations before people. Nobody is purely anti-human. But when bombs are dropped on apartment buildings and people justify it, the term Pro-corporate anti-human fits. Just about anyone endorsing the US going to war or anyone counter-endorsing a move towards greater economic equality, falls into the put corporation before humans category, whether they know it or not. Il n'est pas. But there is something VERY SPECIAL about your bizarre take on leftism. Leftism is not about killing. Thugs like Stalin and Lenin are the product of revolution. They are not the product of leftism, they only use it as a cover. This nation is already very socialistic in many ways, and the murdering has come from those who oppose the socialism, not the other way around. Although I suppose you are correct, the man who paved a road of bloodshed with death of the most Americans, a Republican, shared the leftist pro-human anti-freedom or rich white guy idea of abolition of slavery. Did the ends justify the means? I don't know. I imagine those southern white boys would have evolved eventually. Is the abolition of fossil carbon burning on Hilary's agenda? I see it as a reduction, not an abolition, and if people are going to kill over it, it will be the right wing doing the killing, like they are in the middle east.

A self-help book seems like a good example of how to avoid Insurance claims. Do you prefer the more expensive Freudian couch side analysis insurance claims?

I posted the how to here http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12204 Check out the photos!!! Could be better, as lighting was not good. In retrospect, I would have used more text colors and have the color of the text in the photo match the text in the instructions. Feel free to re-do the photos. Numbered steps might be another good option. If Jimbemotumbo or Jaap want to "pin" the topic in the how-to forum, that would be appreciated. Please try to keep comments on the how-to here, and then I will edit the how-to in the how-to section. If anyone wants there names taken off the how-to, please post or PM the request. We might edit the list down a little as not everyone contributed substantially.... I also plan to post it here http://www.geocities.com/rcdlaing/ I too noticed the broken link. The product of too much copying and pasting and how this forum abreviates links. The link is fixed. If there is a good how-to on valve adjustment here or at Guzzitech, we should use those instead, not because there is anything wrong with Lex's how to, but just for consistency...Maybe we should do one for valves, too????

Also interesting is that your Mistral crossover gives excellent mid-range while not robbing high RPM power as Doug Lofgren's test indicated with only 72HP http://www.visi.com/~moperfserv/more_mg.htm

If you don't re-map the fueling, it could run to lean and shorten the life of the engine, especially the exhaust valves. You could restrict the exhaust outlets to give it enough back pressure, but still remapping is a good idea.

IDLE/ TPS/ THROTTLE BODY BALANCE/ TUNING For the following V11 Moto Guzzi motorcycles, made from 1999-2006 V11 Sport, Le Mans, Rosso Mandello, Scura, Tenni, Cafe Sport, Rosso Corsa, Nero Corsa, Naked Ballabio, and Coppa Italia. Be certain the valves are in adjustment while the motor is "stone cold." Good results are found 0.006"(0,15mm)/0.008"(0,20mm) intake/exhaust. Install fresh spark plugs, properly gapped. Ensure that the fuel and air filters are in good condition and the intake air flow is unobstructed. Using a throttle body cleaner and appropriate nylon brush or such, clean the throttle bodies and butterfly plates to ensure they close fully without restriction. Remove the air bleed screws and clean them along with the holes they fit in. Calibrate the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) to 150 mV with the right throttle fully closed as follows: Disconnect the synchronization rod at the ball joint on the right side (the side with the TPS sensor), back off the right throttle idle screw using a 2.5mm hex key, and back off the "choke" cam (make sure the choke cable permits full retraction of the cam. Be certain your battery is well charged. Turn on the ignition key, but do not start the bike. Measure the voltage difference between the two outer wires of the TPS. If the voltage is not 150 mV , then loosen the TPS clamp screws and gently rotate it as required. Changing the fasteners to standard hex drives simplifies the process (4mm/0.7 thread pitch x 17mm long). Be careful not to force it against the TPS’s internal stop in the direction of reducing the voltage, which could damage it. Plus or minus 5 mV can be obtained with a little effort. The reading wanders as the fasteners are tightened, so a few attempts will finally bring it into spec. To do the next step, you will need to connect a vacuum manometer (mercury sticks, "TwinMax" device, or similar) to each of the two ports on the intake fittings next to the cylinder head. The vacuum taps may be capped or connected to hoses, which are temporarily removed. Next, close both air bypass screws, reconnect the synchronization rod, but keep the right throttle idle screw backed off to put the connecting rod in tension, removing any backlash. Start the engine and balance the throttle body vacuums at idle using the synchronization rod adjustment. Screw in the left throttle idle screw if the idle is too low to maintain. Do not use the choke for this purpose, because that would put the connecting rod in compression, introducing backlash, causing the throttle bodies to go out of balance. Best sychronization may be obtained at operating temperature especially for bikes operated in hot climates. Keep a fan blowing over the front of the motor if it is to be running for any length of time. Now adjust the left idle screw for a TPS reading of 0.521 volts. +/- 0.011 (corresponding to 3.5 +/- 1.0 degrees physical opening, as read by the digital diagnostic software). This accuracy can be obtained with a little effort. (Some riders have been known to also subsequently physically readjust the TPS (not the idle screw) to lean or richen the entire throttle range. However, while offsetting the TPS to a higher voltage will fool the ECU into adding more fuel, but it will also affect the ignition timing table. See also the note at the bottom under “Options”) Next open both air bypass screws to obtain the idle RPM at 1100 to 1200 while maintaining balance. Air bypass screws should be open 1/2 turn or more. If not, back off the idle screw to reduce the TPS voltage reading in steps of 15 mv and open the air bypass screws to compensate until they are opened 1/2 turn or more. Check balance at 2000 - 3000 RPM as follows: A When checking balance at 2000 - 3000 RPM, make any fine correction needed using the synchronization rod adjustment, then: B. Check balance at idle RPM. If OK, go to step C, if not, rebalance at idle using the air bypass screws, and go back to step A. C. Disconnect the voltmeter and manometers. Replace any hoses or caps that were connected to the two intake taps. D. Reset the choke cam and cable to provide an appropriate idle increase when engaged without the cam making contact with the lever off. That completes the procedure. Once this procedure is completed successfully, future minor changes in idle speed can be made simply by adjusting the left throttle idle screw. Since the throttle bodies have been balanced, backlash between them has been eliminated, and air bypass screws have been properly adjusted to maintain balance at idle, these should be stable for many miles. Options: Use a gas analyzer if available to set the %CO level. Use a diagnostic tool or diagnostic software such as Axeone, TechnoResearch's VDSTS, or Guzzidiag to adjust the fuel trim (CO), check throttle angle, RPM, and more. The setting of .521 volts is in the middle of the range of published settings, and has been found to be reliable for stock motorcycles. However, for those who wish to follow specific instructions in their aftermarket parts, Moto Guzzi owners or service manuals, particularly for modified motorcycles, the table below shows the TPS voltage corresponding to various opening angles per the Magnetti Marelli OEM TPS specification. For other settings, here is the formula: 0.1061 volts/degree + 0.150 Degrees Volts DC 2.9 .458 3.4 .511 3.5 .521 3.6 .532 3.8 .553 4.0 .574 4.1 .585 Measure the TPS voltage at the outer two wires or TPS contacts. There are many different methods: 1) Use a Breakout Harness for easy accurate access. 2) Backprobe the ECU connector (especially on early V11 with the connector on top of the ECU). 3) Disconnect the cable connector from the TPS. Use two short lengths of thin stranded wire of about 30 gauge. Strip about 1/4-3/8 insulation off the ends of the stranded wires, insert a stripped end into the connector, and push the connector in part way, far enough to make electrical connection, but no need to jam it all the way. 4) Follow the wires up under the seat, splice, solder, and insulate in some lines with female bullet connectors for easy probing. 5) Probe at the TPS connector, as shown in this image that Mike Stewart graciously provided: These instructions are the product of many people. It was composed in this thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12056 Originator: Ryland3210 Principle investigators and authors: Ryland3210 and dlaing Contributors of useful technical information: docc, BrianG, Guzzijack, luhbo, motoguzznix, pete roper, Greg Field, Jeff in Ohio, MPH motorcycles, and Jaap (for defending our thread against extinction). Edited June 17, 2014 and again September, 2014 / docc

IDLE TPS/THROTTLE BALANCING TUNING Really Almost Final DRAFT October 2, 2007 For the following V11 Moto Guzzi motorcycles, made from 1999-2006 V11 Sport, Le Mans, Rosso Mandello, Scura, Tenni, Cafe Sport, Rosso Corsa, Nero Corsa, Naked Ballabio, and Coppa Italia. If you suspect the valves need adjusting, do that first. Here is a link to some good instructions: http://www.geocities.com/motoguzzi1064/Guz...alvesTorque.htm Then make sure the TPS is calibrated to 150 mv at fully closed as follows: Disconnect the synchronization rod at the ball joint on the right side (the side with the TPS sensor), back off the right throttle idle screw using a 2.5mm hex key, and back off the "choke" cam (make sure the choke cable permits full retraction of the cam (it didn't on my bike). Turn on the ignition key, but do not start the bike. Measure the voltage difference between the two outer wires of the TPS. If the voltage is not 150 mV ±5 mV, then loosen the TPS clamp screws and gently rotate it as required. Be careful not to force it against the TPS’s internal stop in the direction of reducing the voltage, which could damage it. Plus or minus 5 mV can be obtained with a little effort. To do the next step, you will need to connect a vacuum manometer (e.g. mercury stick) to each of the two ports on the intake fittings next to the cylinder head. These are normally connected together with a hose, which is to be temporarily disconnected. Next, close both air bypass screws, reconnect the synchronization rod, but keep the right throttle idle screw backed off to put the connecting rod in tension, removing any backlash. Start the engine and balance the throttle body vacuums at idle using the synchronization rod adjustment. Screw in the left throttle idle screw if the idle is too low to maintain. Do not use the choke for this purpose, because that would put the connecting rod in compression, introducing backlash, causing the throttle bodies to go out of balance. Now adjust the left idle screw for a TPS reading of .521 volts. + - .005 (corresponding to 3.5 degrees physical opening, as read by the optional diagnostic software). This accuracy can be obtained with a little effort. (Some riders have been known to also subsequently physically readjust the TPS (not the idle screw) to lean or richen the entire throttle range. However, loosening its screws and offsetting the TPS to a higher voltage, e.g. .539, will fool the ECU into adding more fuel, but it will also fool the ignition timing table. See also the note at the bottom under “Options”) Next open both air bypass screws to obtain the idle RPM at 1100 to 1200 while maintaining balance. Air bypass screws should be open 1/2 turn or more. If not, back off the idle screw to reduce the TPS voltage reading in steps of 15 mv and open the air bypass screws to compensate until they are opened 1/2 turn or more. Check balance at 2000 - 3000 RPM as follows: A When checking balance at 2000 - 3000 RPM, make any fine correction needed using the synchronization rod adjustment, then: B. Check balance at idle RPM. If OK, go to step C, if not, rebalance at idle using the air bypass screws, and go back to step A. C. Disconnect the voltmeter and manometers. Replace the hose connecting the two intakes. That completes the procedure. Once this procedure is completed successfully, future minor changes in idle speed can be made simply by adjusting the left throttle idle screw. Since the throttle bodies have been balanced, backlash between them has been eliminated, and air bypass screws have been properly adjusted to maintain balance at idle, these should be stable for many miles. Options: Use a gas analyzer if available to set the CO level. Use a diagnostic tool or diagnostic software such as Axeone or TechnoResearch's VDSTS to adjust the fuel trim, check throttle angle, RPM, and more. The setting of .521 volts is in the middle of the range of published settings, and has been found to be reliable for stock motorcycles. However, for those who wish to follow specific instructions in their aftermarket parts, Moto Guzzi owners or service manuals, particularly for modified motorcycles, the table below shows the TPS voltage corresponding to various opening angles per the Magnetti Marelli OEM TPS specification. For other settings, here is the formula: 0.1061 volts/degree + 0.150 Degrees Volts DC 2.9 .458 3.4 .511 3.5 .521 3.6 .532 3.8 .553 4.0 .574 4.1 .585 Larger image click here Larger image click here

I'm going to copy this to the how to forum and to my web site (I assume you won't object) We could also have Al put it in the FAQ section, but it might be good to get comments about it in the How to forum. Maybe we should have an admin delete this thread to hide the incriminating evidence. Next mystery to science conversion project: How to eliminate the 4000RPM flat spot http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12100 I think we may need a WIKI to be more productive. Oh wait, we forgot to add pictures!

She is so cute. You could post her over at this thread, but she does not look a day over 18, so it might get banned. She is so cute. You could post her over at this thread, but she does not look a day over 18, so it might get banned. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ic=7217&hl=

I got a Penske two way adjustable: They are listed at $715 here http://www.le-suspension.com/catalog/produ...?products_id=31 I chose them over the Wilbers because they could provide a higher stroke to overall length ratio. I am sure you will agree this important on the roads you ride. I am happy with the shock as it transformed the bike, but ordering it did not go smoothly. Penske delivered it with the wrong size bushings for the eyes, and had to send me the correct ones. The good news is that they responded promptly. If interested, I can send you the details so that maybe they will get it right the first time. GP suspension also sells Penske and Ohlins. If you can still get an Ohlins, it will give you an even higher stroke to length ratio, so it may be worth the money. I started an incredibly excellent thread here on shock options http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5488 If Carl gives you a good price I would go for it. It should give you an extra cm of stroke which is about an extra 2cm of wheel travel. If you set the sag to the same percentage as the Sachs, it will ride higher and steer quicker. Of course it is an ancient shock, so who knows how long the seal will last. Will you can't beat that! I'll bet Greg could even re-spring it for cheap!

IDLE TPS/THROTTLE BALANCING TUNING Final???DRAFT October 1, 2007 For the following V11 Moto Guzzi motorcycles, made from 1999-2006 V11 Sport, Le Mans, Rosso Mandello, Scura, Tenni, Cafe Sport, Rosso Corsa, Nero Corsa, Naked Ballabio, and Coppa Italia. If you suspect the valves need adjusting, do that first. Here is a link to some good instructions: http://www.geocities.com/motoguzzi1064/Guz...alvesTorque.htm Then make sure the TPS is calibrated to 150 mv at fully closed as follows: Disconnect the synchronization rod at the ball joint on the right side (the side with the TPS sensor), back off the right throttle idle screw using a 2.5mm hex key, and back off the "choke" cam (make sure the choke cable permits full retraction of the cam (it didn't on my bike). Turn on the ignition key, but do not start the bike. Measure the voltage difference between the two outer wires of the TPS. If the voltage is not 150 mV ±5 mV, then loosen the TPS clamp screws and gently rotate it as required. Be careful not to force it against the TPS’s internal stop in the direction of reducing the voltage, which could damage it. Plus or minus 5 mV can be obtained with a little effort. To do the next step, you will need to connect a vacuum manometer (e.g. mercury stick) to each of the two ports on the intake fittings next to the cylinder head. These are normally connected together with a hose, which is to be temporarily disconnected. Next, close both air bypass screws, reconnect the synchronization rod, but keep the right throttle idle screw backed off to put the connecting rod in tension, removing any backlash. Start the engine and balance the throttle body vacuums at idle using the synchronization rod adjustment. Screw in the left throttle idle screw if the idle is too low to maintain. Do not use the choke for this purpose, because that would put the connecting rod in compression, introducing backlash, causing the throttle bodies to go out of balance. Now adjust the left idle screw for a TPS reading of .521 volts. + - .005 (corresponding to 3.5 degrees physical opening, as read by the optional diagnostic software). This accuracy can be obtained with a little effort. (Some riders have been known to also subsequently physically readjust the TPS (not the idle screw) to lean or richen the entire throttle range. However, loosening its screws and offsetting the TPS to a higher voltage, e.g. .539, will fool the ECU into adding more fuel, but it will also fool the ignition timing table. See also the note at the bottom under “Options”) Next open both air bypass screws to obtain the idle RPM at 1100 to 1200 while maintaining balance. Air bypass screws should be open 1/2 turn or more. If not, back off the idle screw to reduce the TPS voltage reading in steps of 15 mv and open the air bypass screws to compensate until they are opened 1/2 turn or more. Check balance at 2000 - 3000 RPM as follows: A When checking balance at 2000 - 3000 RPM, make any fine correction needed using the synchronization rod adjustment, then: B. Check balance at idle RPM. If OK, go to step C, if not, rebalance at idle using the air bypass screws, and go back to step A. C. Disconnect the voltmeter and manometers. Replace the hose connecting the two intakes. That completes the procedure. Once this procedure is completed successfully, future minor changes in idle speed can be made simply by adjusting the left throttle idle screw. Since the throttle bodies have been balanced, backlash between them has been eliminated, and air bypass screws have been properly adjusted to maintain balance at idle, these should be stable for many miles. Options: Use a gas analyzer if available to set the CO level. Use a diagnostic tool or diagnostic software such as Axeone or TechnoResearch's VDSTS to adjust the fuel trim, check throttle angle, RPM, and more. The setting of .521 volts is in the middle of the range of published settings, and has been found to be reliable for stock motorcycles. However, for those who wish to follow specific instructions in their aftermarket parts, Moto Guzzi owners or service manuals, particularly for modified motorcycles, the table below shows the TPS voltage corresponding to various opening angles per the Magnetti Marelli OEM TPS specification. For other settings, here is the formula: 0.1061 volts/degree + 0.150 Degrees Volts DC 2.9 .458 3.4 .511 3.5 .521 3.6 .532 3.8 .553 4.0 .574 4.1 .585

For pro-war petroheads, I have censored out the offensive.

Looks good to me. I really like the addendum. Perhaps it could specifically include the Ti ECU recommendations that Greg posted. Here are a couple possible changes. quote name='Ryland3210' date='Sep 30 2007, 05:27 PM' post='130144' OK, here is another draft, hopefully taking everyone's concerns into account (which may be an imporssible dream, but worth a shot): IDLE TPS/THROTTLE BALANCING TUNING DRAFT September 30, 2007 For the following V11 Moto Guzzi motorcycles, made from 1999-2006 V11 Sport, Le Mans, Rosso Mandello, Scura, Tenni, Cafe Sport, Rosso Corsa, Nero Corsa, Naked Ballabio, and Coppa Italia. If you suspect the valves need adjusting, do that first. Here is a link to some good instructions: Lex's Valve Adjustment Procedure Then make sure the TPS is calibrated to 150 mv at fully closed as follows: Disconnect the synchronization rod at the ball joint on the right side (the side with the TPS sensor), back off the right throttle idle screw using a 2.5mm hex key, and back off the "choke" cam (make sure the choke cable permits full retraction of the cam (it didn't on my bike). Turn on the ignition key, but do not start the bike. Measure the voltage difference between the two outer wires of the TPS. If the voltage is not 150 mV ±5 mV, then loosen the TPS clamp screws and gently rotate it as required. Be careful not to force it against the TPS’s internal stop in the direction of reducing the voltage, which could damage it. Plus or minus 5 mV can be obtained with a little effort. To do the next step, you will need to connect a vacuum manometer (e.g. mercury stick) to each of the two ports on the intake fittings next to the cylinder head. These are normally connected together with a hose, which is to be temporarily disconnected. Next, close both air bypass screws, reconnect the synchronization rod, but keep the right throttle idle screw backed off to put the connecting rod in tension, removing any backlash. Start the engine and balance the throttle body vacuums at idle using the synchronization rod adjustment. Screw in the left throttle idle screw if the idle is too low to maintain. Do not use the choke for this purpose, because that would put the connecting rod in compression, introducing backlash, causing the throttle bodies to go out of balance. Now adjust the left idle screw for a TPS reading of .521 volts. + - .005 (corresponding to somewhere between 3.4 and 3.6 3.5 degrees physical opening, as read by the optional diagnostic software). This accuracy can be obtained with a little effort. (Some riders have been known to also subsequently physically readjust the TPS (not the idle screw) to lean or richen the entire throttle range. However, loosening its screws and offsetting the TPS to a higher voltage, e.g. .539, will fool the ECU into adding more fuel, but it will also fool the ignition timing table. See also the note at the bottom under “Options”) Next open both air bypass screws to obtain the idle RPM at 1100 to 1200 while maintaining balance. Air bypass screws should be open 1/2 turn or more. If not, back off the idle screw to reduce the TPS voltage reading in steps of 15 mv and open the air bypass screws to compensate until they are opened 1/2 turn or more. Check balance at 2000 - 3000 RPM as follows: A When checking balance at 2000 - 3000 RPM, make any fine correction needed using the synchronization rod adjustment, then: B. Check balance at idle RPM. If OK, go to step C, if not, rebalance at idle using the air bypass screws, and go back to step A. C. Disconnect the voltmeter and manometers. Replace the hose connecting the two intakes. That completes the procedure. Once this procedure is completed successfully, future minor changes in idle speed can be made simply by adjusting the left throttle idle screw. Since the throttle bodies have been balanced, backlash between them has been eliminated, and air bypass screws have been properly adjusted to maintain balance at idle, these should be stable for many miles. Options: Use a gas analyzer if available to set the CO level. Use a diagnostic tool or diagnostic software such as Axeone or TechnoResearch's VDSTS to adjust the fuel trim, check throttle angle, RPM, and more. The setting of .521 volts is in the middle of the range of published settings, and has been found to be reliable for stock motorcycles. However, for those who wish to follow specific instructions in their aftermarket parts, Moto Guzzi owners or service manuals, particularly for modified motorcycles, the table below shows the TPS voltage corresponding to various opening angles per the Magnetti Marelli OEM TPS specification. For other settings, here is the formula: 0.1061 volts/degree + 0.150 Degrees Volts DC 2.9 .458 3.4 .511 3.5 .521 3.6 .532 3.8 .553 4.0 .574 4.1 .585 /quote

Thanks for charts at MPH and the write ups here and at Guzzitech.com. Without your work, we might not be in the dark but would probably still be reading by candlelight, if you know what I mean. Have you thought much about varying from the 525(521)mV reading, based on the what is in the manuals? (Manuals have recommendations of 3.1-4.1° 3.2-3.6° and 3.7-3.9° as well as two different recommendations for Titanium Muffler/Race ECU kit, depending on whether or not they have the front balance crossover) My thoughts (and probably Ryland's, too) are that it does not matter too much and that recommending 521mV should make just about everybody's bike run well. I still want to verify by tuning it at 3.1° and 4.1° and see if it makes a noticeable difference. I have tried the map on the Ti ECU and did not like how it ran at lower RPMs, so it may be important to get that ECU set up to the recommendations that Greg Field posted. "Ah! Yeah. It's just we're putting new coversheets on all the TPS reports before they go out now. So if you could go ahead and try to remember to do that from now on, that'd be great. All right! " --Dom Portwood (Office Space, the movie)