dlaing

I vote that Jaap is doing a great job! And I vote for Richard to be made moderator of the hooters forum.

Sure it is fair and relevant. I don't know if you missed some of the earlier posts in this thread, but Jaap edited them out to keep the nasty or potentially nasty posts from getting out of control. He is not targeting you, he is just trying to keep the peace, as the subject is loaded with controversy and politics. Maybe if you start a thread on the "misguided" use of alcohol in the banter section Jaap will be a little more tolerant, or not. But that is a better place to discuss it, or better yet Captain Enzo Nemo's website. http://p209.ezboard.com/btherollingcrowmotorcycleclub

Be sure you look at the photos in this thread Skeeve's images are particularly revealing http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...20can&st=15 How hard would it be to remove all the innards except for the steel wool end cap, and then put in a perforated tube aiming at the in pipe and out pipe, and surround it with steel wool? Kind of a shortened version of a conventional race muffler inside a DOT approved carcass. I think this could be powerful yet not too loud. There would be a bottle neck at the stock end of course, but maybe a good option for those that need to fear Law Enforcement. But perhaps it is too much trouble. I know I won't try it unless I take welding classes. One of Skeeve's photos

bump

The forum advertiser, Rossopuro has a kit that moves it back and up that might work for you. There web site is currently not working http://www.rossopuroitalia.it/ Moto International might also still carry the very inexpensive Evoluzione kit for moving the peg back and down. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...p;hl=evoluzione

No, look for the obvious first, do what Carl and I recommended, and then start disconnecting the wire harnass under the tank and probing for a ground that should not be. I believe one rule with the ohmeter is to not probe a wire with live volts. Maybe you will get lucky and find it and maybe you won't, but if you have basic knowledge, that is enough to give it a try. Maybe you will increase your knowledge. Also, see if horn works, high beam flasher, and turn signals. Does the taillight work? Does the parking light in the head lamp work? If you go back to a 5A fuse does it blow? The more you tell us, the more we can help.

What is the deliver farm?

If my math is right that makes the 4.5mm spring ~7.7Kg Happy riding Here is the Fork Spring Info (from an Ohlins Fork Manual, but not the Scura manual...): OEM spring rate 4745-95, 9,5 N/mm Optional springs: 4745-75, 7.5 N/mm (marking -75). ( = 7.65Kg/mm which close to 7.7) 4745-80, 8.0 N/mm (marking -80). 4745-85, 8.5 N/mm (marking -85). 4745-90, 9.0 N/mm (marking -90). 4745-95, 9.5 N/mm (marking -95). 4745-10, 10.0 N/mm (marking -10). 4745-05, 10.5 N/mm (marking -05). 4745-11, 11.0 N/mm (marking -11).

I was looking for the specs on the TPS and came across an interesting article on the TPS PF 3C http://www.guzziclubfiorenza.it/sito/Poten...lunga_storia%29 The article is in Italian. Google translation seems to indicate that the Fiat Punto uses the PF3C and cost is about 40 Euros. Of course my interpretation of the translation could be wrong and maybe it is a PF2C or something that won't work well So perhaps there is no need to go to the Harley PF 4C to save a few bucks. Of course the profit made by buying one from Guzzi for a much higher price should help keep Guzzi in business. BTW where are the specs?

Try viewing them here: http://s109.photobucket.com/albums/n78/PhilA_02/

That is pretty strange. The front and rear brakes are on the same fuse line, so I would suspect that something between them is both severed and partially shorted. You could try disconnecting things and seeing if some of the functionality returns. First try disconnecting the front brake switch, then try disconnecting the small parking light inside the headlight beam, by running light do you mean that is the one that is out? If no improvement then you will likely have to look under the gas tank. Look everywhere for signs of scorched connections or wires. Your problem could also be in more than one place.

Loathed by the SS. Sounds like something to be proud of. Think they were shivering in their boots that if they pissed her off their heads would roll off their shoulders like that of chickens in an Arkansas poultry factory? It is sheer paranoia that she is the next Hitler or Stalin, brought on by Right wing nut job propagandists. Say it enough times and people will believe you. Look at the credibility of people desperate enough to judge people by innuendo rather than by their substance. GWB is a first class ______ but that didn't stop him from getting elected. This argument by innuendo is clearly partisan crap. That sad thing is 90% of the swing vote probably buys it and will vote for the next Republicant, just because they don't find her charming. I do hope the Democrats chose anybody else, just because the propaganda has damaged her.

Mount it on your helmet! Yes there is not much room under the tank. A lower gas tank does seem to be the way to go. But that would be a major modification. Some ideas I have had are to raise the tank, put airbox over tank, put airboxes under cylinder heads, and putting airbox under seat. The ideal intake point is probably about the headlight. One could probably replace the headlight with two smaller, somewhat fashionable lamps, letting the air flow presumably into two tubes, probably routed outside the triple clamps and forks, down along the path of the exhaust pipes, under the cylinder heads where there would be one of these beautiful air filters http://www.bmcairfilters.com/infoCDA.asp A pair of the CDAxx-130 would have little filter element resistance. on each side of the bike and then bent around in a perfectly tuned bend to the throttle bodies, possibly with a X-over between the throttle bodies. But again getting all the tuning done right is key. It boggles my mind how Phil came up with his modification design. Belling the snorkels made sense, but the holes seem to be more counter intuitive. Maybe if I try to explain what I think is going on, Phil will set me straight. If he did not drill the holes the performance would be better than stock, but still there would be a venturi effect robbing the performance. The snorkels direct the air flow over rather than at the filter element. This has a tendency to reverse the flow of pressure. But if the air is headed to the filter element from above, through the tear drop holes, it can be drawn directly through without the counter productive venturi effect. If he had simply removed the airbox lid the draw through would be direct and he would also make more power than stock, but the filter element would be less protected, it would draw in more hot air at low speeds, and there might be more turbulents, and the tuning length effects would be different. This could be why Greg Field got more high RPM power when he headed in the direction of Phil's design, as the snorkel's tuning length kicked it into supercharged mode at a higher RPM. Does that make sense? Phil? Anybody?

The plus or minus 5 mV is for the TPS setting below idle where the sensor is actually adjusted towards a 150 mV target. The plus or minus 15 mV is set at idle and the sensor is not adjusted, the idle adjustment screws change the reading. If you did not understand, than much of the audience of these instructions won't either. Ryland designed it to be idiot proof if one follows the steps, but if people stray, and they probably will, they might start adjusting the wrong 'grub' screw. I am beginning to think targeting 518 or 455 or 525 or 550 mV is a bad idea, especially after Greg's post regarding the Ti kit manual This could be why Guzzi gave a range of 3.1° - 4.1° What might work is to have them adjust the idle to oh say 1000RPM (I'd have to test that) and then bump it up to 1150RPM with air bypass screws, but that is not very scientific and it deviates from the manual Valve adjustment is a good idea. I went back and modified the instructions

Hi, here are modifications to the September 9th version. I am tired and taking cold medicine right now, so forgive me for errors...goodnight. quote name='Ryland3210' date='Sep 9 2007, 06:43 PM' post='128737' The Procedure below for adjusting throttle balance, air bypasses, linkage connecting rod, TPS and RPM is the product of contributions of numerous members of the V11 LeMans members, for which I am grateful. An important goal of the procedure was to make it easy, logical, with minimum trial and error guesswork. IDLE TPS/THROTTLE BALANCING TUNING September 9, 2007 DRAFT September 27, 2007 For the following V11 Moto Guzzi made from 1999-2006 V11 Sport, Le Mans, Rosso Mandello, Scura, Tenni, Cafe Sport, Rosso Corsa, Nero Corsa, Naked Ballabio, and Coppa Italia. First make sure the valves are adjusted. Here is a link to some good instructions http://www.geocities.com/motoguzzi1064/Guz...alvesTorque.htm First Then make sure the TPS is calibrated to 150 mv at fully closed as follows: disconnect the connecting synchronization rod at the ball joint on the right side, back off the right throttle idle screw using a 2.5mm hex key, and back off the and "choke" cam (make sure the choke cable permits full retraction of the cam (it didn't on my bike), Turn on the ignition key, but do not start bike. Measure TPS voltage difference between two outer wires of TPS. If needed voltage is not 150 mV ±5 mV, then loosen the TPS clamp screws and rotate if needed. plus or minus 5 mV can be obtained with a little effort. Next, close the bypasses both air bypass screws, reconnect the connecting synchronization rod, but keep the right throttle idle screw backed off to put the connecting rod in tension, removing any backlash, and balance the throttles throttle bodies at idle using the connecting synchronization rod adjustment. Screw in the left throttle idle screw if the idle is too low to maintain. Do not use the choke for this purpose, because that would put the connecting rod in compression, introducing backlash, causing the throttle bodies to go out of balance. Now adjust the left idle screw for a TPS reading of .518 volts. + - .005 (corresponding to 3.4 somewhere between 3.5 and 3.6 degrees physical opening, as read by the optional diagnostic software) can be obtained with a little effort. (Some riders have been known to also subsequently physically readjust the TPS (not the idle screw) to lean or richen the entire throttle range. However, loosening its screws and offsetting the TPS to a higher voltage, e.g. .539, will fool the ECU into adding more fuel, but it will also fool the ignition timing table.) Next open the bypasses air bypass screws to obtain the idle RPM at 1100 to 1200 while maintaining balance. Bypasses air bypass screwsshould be open 1/2 turn or more. If not, back off the idle screw to reduce the TPS voltage reading in steps of 15 mv and open the bypasses air bypass screws to compensate until they are opened 1/2 turn or more. Check balance at midrange 2000 - 3000 RPM as follows: A When checking balance at cruise 2000 - 3000 RPM, make any fine correction needed using the connecting synchronization rod adjustment, then: B. Check balance at idle RPM. If OK, done, if not, rebalance at idle using the air bypass screws, and go back to step A. Options: Adjust the idle mixture trim potentiometer under the label of the computer for best idle quality, or use a gas analyzer if available. However, according to Guzzijack, "not an option on the V11Sport as it uses the 15M ECU - manual adjustment of the idle mixture potentiometer is only applicable to bikes with the P7/P8 or 16M ECUs - 15M idle mixture adjust is only possible via factory or aftermarket software." Use a gas analyzer if available to set the CO level Use a diagnostic tool or diagnostic software such as Axeone or TechnoResearch's VDSTS to adjust the fuel trim, check throttle angle, RPM, and more Once this procedure is completelycompleted successfully, in the future, minor changes in idle speed can be made simply by adjusting the left throttle idle screw. Since the throttle plates bodies have been balanced, backlash between them has been eliminated, and bypasses air bypass screws have been properly adjusted to maintain balance at idle, these should be stable for many miles. /quote

Just when I thought we were near done, another something to possibly amend. FWIW every manual I ever read and everyone I ever talked to, until now, balanced at idle and at a higher RPM. But I am certainly willing to give it a try. I gave balancing it below 3000 RPM a try and that worked surprisingly well. If I ever get my WBO2 working, I'll have to test the effects of balance on O2 readings. Do you just set your air bypass screws to one half turn out? Thanks Skeeve!

Yah, you are so right Ratchet. Hitlery is gonna be lining up the dissidents for the gas chamber. Do you think she'll kill as many as Stalin? (sarcasm intended )

agreeing on a definition of 'good' can be a problem What are your exact settings? I got 148mV and 525mV(I think that was it?) (3.6°) and one air screw is out half a turn and the three quarters of a turn. Idle is about 1150-1200. Valves are set to .15/.20mm.(this can effect idle speed, too.) So, maybe 518mV would give idle right where we defined it Just asking what your settings are, because if we get a sample of people's exact settings it could give us a better indication of what to recommend.

I plotted the MPH Cycle numbers on to a graph and the graph was two clean lines just like Jeff's graph. If the number was 518 and not 524 mV, then the curve would be skewed. How did you come up with 518 mV? I suppose I could hook up the computer and find the highest and lowest mV readings that line up with 3.6°. Of course we have Mr. Bean saying to go with a much lower mV and V11Cafe saying to go with the updated manual's 3.8°, and it is all much about nothing because as long as you got the 150mV set right the idle setting variations won't matter much. I am just nitpicking. So how about a nice round 520mV?

There are more than two directions. There is the road that your pro-corporate anti-human buddies have us on, and there is any other way but that.

Could we keep "choke" in quotes? Yes running the engine on just the left cylinder is difficult and probably not good for the engine.

Would a moderator please move this thread to the banter section? This Ratchet guy has got issues and needs my therapy. No forget moving the thread. Because it is therapy, we need to keep it a technical issue. Let us begin. Ratchet, what drugs are you on?

I used to use the term V11 six speed to refer to the bikes with the 15M, but then came the breva, griso and norge, so then it became V11 six speed spine frame. Do people know which bikes those are? I guess we should list which bikes have the 15M and follow this exact tuning process. 1999-2006 V11 Sport, Le Mans, Rosso Mandello, Scura, Tenni, Cafe Sport, Rosso Corsa, Nero Corsa, Naked Ballabio, and Coppa Italia.

No critique, huh? But your critique is greatly appreciated. I look forward to more. The term "choke" bugs me too. Good catch. I think it would be a good idea to use both choke and fast idle, but put "choke" in quotes and (fast idle) in parenthesis. Connecting Rod is bad. linkage rod may not be much better. How about Synchronization Rod? I found that mV reading of the TPS did not vary going from battery only to battery and external charger. But I did find variation when engine was running.

1. OK...for now. I need to double check your work on that. 2. I disagree, but maybe it is not a big deal. 3. Previously I checked at all the RPMs up to 4500, but I have found that if I just set it at 2500RPM it works just as well. This surprised me. Someone on the forum recommended lower rpms and it worked great. It reduces the chance of overheating, balances it very well, and does not drive the neighbors to hate me MORE. 4. There is no potentiometer, so the only need to mention it is to say it does not exist. But there is a trim accessible via software. Perhaps it could be worded something like: " The bikes with the 15M computer have no potentiometer for adjusting mixture, but through the use of a diagnostic tool or diagnostic software such as Axeone or TechnoResearch's VDSTS the fuel trim can be adjusted to get the proper CO emission level. "