dlaing

I like the clarity regarding how the air bypass screws might be used. I am still not sure about the .485 V setting. I think it is better to suggest a range there, and also include whether or not the bike is running and if so, whether or not you expect it to hold an idle at 485mV± ??mV I tend to favor an RPM of 1100-1200, but 1100 may be fine and even 1000RPM may have advantages like smoother shifting from neutral to first and the bike may run cooler in stop and go, 5 minute red lights in the middle of Summer in congested traffic. Are you sure there is a potentiometer under the label??? And a blurb about CO is always helpful...

Oooops I made a mistake. Should be 4850mV or 4.85V at WOT.

I would not get the metal jacket. It costs more, adds weight, and is more likely to be touched by the seat when you hit a pothole. But the benefits are that it MIGHT resist the force of the seat better,but I think avoiding contact is more beneficial than resisting contact. The designed benefit is that it resists high temperatures better. But I am not sure why. Maybe if it boils it will resist rupturing??? So, don't boil your battery and it will be fine Or maybe it is to help conduct heat away from the battery when the battery is put in an engine compartment....not a problem on our bike as little engine heat gets to the battery. I initially thought it was to resist rupturing from freezing, but I was told it was to resist heat, not cold. Besides, the plates would probably crack before the case.

I had to put wire mesh over the snorkel in my mother's car after they chewed through. Engine seemed to run okay, so I guess they did not destroy it. But an excellent point

The documentation on what the correct idle rpm and idle TPS mV varies a lot. In my workshop manual it idle RPM should be 1000-1100, but I have seen higher numbers recommended. I think Pete Roper recommended 1200RPM, which sounds good to me. My workshop manual says in one place TPS at idle should be set to 3.2-3.4° In another place in the workshop manual it says 3.1-4.1° In a newer workshop manual, it says both 3.2-3.6° and 3.1-4.1° On a 2002 California Stone these numbers correspond somewhere between about 466mV and 579mV extrapolated from this chart: http://www.mphcycles.com/Technical/tpsexcel3.htm I always presumed the V11six speeds were the same, but Mr. Bean got a different conversion from Moto International and his software(technoresearch?) confirmed the difference. So for the V11 3.6° is about 485mV. So at idle the mV might translate to between 430 and 540mV It would be good to know how the Voltage and degrees relate, but not critical.

iAy, caramba! I have messed up with a double negative, died, and gone to hell.

That sounds like a good idea. I seem to recall I get about 485mV at WOT. Do you do it with linkage disconnected? If not, then you might get some bad readings if the left tops before the right. Of course you can just back off the left and balance later. EDIT Looking for a "how to set TPS" instruction? The following is a result of this thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12204

Maybe fishing trip buddy is more appropriate than mistress. To each their own... But yah, I know I have trouble pronouncing Ballabio. Bellagio somehow rolls out of the brain and off the tongue more easily. I wonder why they chose Ballabio? Perhaps it is pretty area with twisty roads??

"BillyBob" isn't that Greg Field's pet name for his mistress? Or is this something to do with Billy Bob Thorton playing a barber at a barbershop named Guzzi's? (I had to google to get that info...)

I guess you fixed it without a thorough cleaning of the piston that was sticking more. But I would check it pretty frequently to make sure it is not overheating, again. If you really want to be cautious, you should clean it again, this time cleaning the other piston. It may be worth the effort now to give the brake pads a more balanced wear, and ensure a cooler running rotor.

No need to apologize unless you are not insulting and rude. Disagreement is healthy and once in a while productive, although some sure are overly sensitive about any disagreement.

With less parallax: http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/8544/hawkerey5.jpg (too large to post) Do the dents on the Spark 500 match the bottom of the seat???? And an image showing the Spark500 being rated to the exact same 545A My guess has been that the Spark500 is a re-badged Hawker Genesis.

Here is a photo I took a couple years ago of the PC545 and Spark500 I recall with great certaintly that they lined up exactly in every way. Perhaps there was more than one model of Spark500

Errr......Thanks. Yah, I read what was stated in the previous message. But what is interchangeable remains unclear. Although Guzzi2Go's post cleared up the temperature sensor number, and dashed away hopes that there would be a temerature sensor that properly fit the sensor housing. Thanks Guzzi2Go!

The dimensions are a perfect match. So, the OEM Spark 500 would have the same problem. A nice after market product would be a battery cage that hung just a little lower. Of course you could modify the existing. I recollect someone did that, maybe Docc???

So, do you chosen ones suppose they added thermal grease or had a brass holder when they mapped the ECU to that temperature curve? Before anyone gets there hopes up about the TPS, here is the Guzzi and Harley number On their 1.5M injected bikes, Guzzi uses a Magneti Marelli PF3C TPS ($212 retail) MG part number is 01530500 On their 1995-2000 Electra Glide Models, Harley uses a Marelli PF4C TPS ($42 retail) HD part number is 27271-95 Of course if the PF09 or more likely the PF2C has a good curve it my be a good choice. Any ideas about the the other sensors? EDIT Interesting. They list a WTS05 and a WTS09 The WTS05 inserts about 27mm while the WTS09 inserts about 22.5mm. What is ours?

jimbemotumbo Lives! Just cause you are gooseless, don't be a stranger! PS sorry for calling you gooseless....it is the wickedest of personal insults

But of course many of us have different handlebars. In that photo are my OEM bars, but now I have Convertibars. I'll have to take some more photos.

As an amateur, I love changing the oil and HEARING the difference. I have rated oils by this highly subjective method and found that Mobil One automotive was loud, perhaps because it was thinner than the other's that I have tried. I forget what weight it was, either 5W50 or 15W50 or 20W50, but it was so thin I chose to change it after 1000 miles. Motul 15W50 full synthetic was quieter. Maxima synthetic blend 20W50 was more quiet than the Motul, but I suspect mostly because the Maxima was thicker. Repsol semi-synthetic seemed as good as the Motul full sythetic. But now, I have pretty much settled on Repsol full synthetic 5W50 as it seems to last longer than any of the aforementioned. Oil changes at 3000 miles show little change in noise. 5000 miles with Repsol feels like 3000 miles with Motul. I am sure there are other good oils out there, but I am not impressed with MobilOne automotive. I'd like to try Maxima full synthetic, Amsoil and RedLine, but prices seem to be too high and Repsol is often on sale. I think good synthetics pay for themselves as you can go many more miles and labor costs are drastically reduced.

If you have strapped the bike down with tie downs for shipping, it is possible that it over compressed the forks and blew the seals. I am sure there are other possibilities....

The term "fully closed" can be misleading. Fully closed with linkage disconnected and set screws backed out and choke not interfering, the TPS should read 150mV ±15mV. Idle should then be set to BOTH the recommended RPM and idle TPS reading(around 500mV not around 150mV). Getting it to do both may require a compromise. The idea is to get the idle to match the recommended RPM and TPS mV without touching the TPS adjuster, since you already set it to 150mV fully closed, etc. The recommended settings vary but are in the range of 1000-1200RPM and ~485-550mV at idle. Most people don't have the tools to set CO. Once TPS is set, and ignoring CO, I think optimization is best done with mapping software, but if you don't have mapping software, twiddling with TPS adjuster at idle may have benefits, just make sensible changes. Also, note that TPS changes by about 10-20mV depending on whether engine is running or not. I favor the engine not running method, but to each their own.

And use common sense and at least partially understand what is happening. A higher TPS reading will almost always mean it will give it more fuel. So, if fuel consumption is terrible and engine feels sluggish and the people riding behind you are passing out from the fumes, your TPS is probably set too high. If engine is pinging and spark plugs are the color of grey ash, your TPS is probably set too low. I would not recommend going outside of the recommend range by more than 50mV. Although if you do and it runs like crud, just reset it and as Pete suggests I suppose no harm is done if you only rode around the block a few times. I permanently installed test wires so I can test frequently. It sure can go off a bit before noticing. IMHO the time to be retentive about TPS setting is after you spent money on a custom map that you of course did a proper tune up prior to the dyno session. Noting the TPS at that time and resetting it forever after at that number (±10mV or so...) will give you a happy bike. People with no tuning software and aftermarket mufflers can certainly benefit from a few additional millivolts.

The Le Mans seems to have more viable mounting options. Al Roethlisberger posted an image of Formotion clock and thermometer mounted. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...mp;hl=formotion

complete the path.

We might need to brainstorm with the forum savants. Here is my 2000 V11 dash area with Centauro bars being considered... There are two button bolts shown holding the aluminum plate that holds the tach and speedo. They could be used to attach a wire mount. Or assuming everyone uses bar end or fairing mirrors, the mirror mounts could be used. Or the mounts for the fluid resevoirs could be enhanced and used.