dlaing

Will you make a gauge mount for the V11S and LeMans cockpits?

My bike would surely stall at that speed. I think your tach may be off. If you have a PCIII you can hook it up to a computer to verify.

No rally in San Diego this year. http://www.socal-guzzi.com/Events.html We have been doing monthly rides but this month two people showed, last month 5 people, but only me on Guzzi, and the month before that was a bad turnout, too. LA has a much more dedicated group. The monthly Ortega rides have a better turnout, although last time it was only two Guzzis, and no group ride. Anyway, the So-Cal National Rally next June will be something to look forward to. We can probably guarantee less rain than the 2007 National, but all bets are off on the chance of Earthquakes and "June Gloom"

Thanks Paul! Beautiful music of twins!!!

No, there were in fact pages of hard evidence presented that mankind has in fact raised the temperature of the Earth higher than it would be without man's existence. The evidence was ignored and or not accepted at merit. I won't argue it, but here is a great starting point http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intergovernme...ate_Change_2007

Twisting reality as usual...

I don't understand Italian, but it sure was cute. I looked for a video of Guaro at Daytona 2007 but found this instead. Is this Guaro? http://web.tiscali.it/videob/vallelunga3.p.wmv warning 17MB download ******** and here is a 2 point something MB file of Guaro talking http://www.coppaitaliamoto.it/images/video/stw_guareschi.wmv

Sorry, I don't talk to Tennistinos or whatever you call your selves Just kidding!!!!! Sorry my wife needed attention and I felt kinda shy so my talking was limited. But some of those guys can talk your ear off and getting a word in edge wise is futile. The rally could have been better with regard to social interaction. Needed more events and introductions or something. I know you will give the so-cal bunch more chances. Maybe we can organize a candy assed liberal ride as there are at least three of us. Dr. Know is an excellent fellow if you get to know him and he has no track marks on his arms, just on his leathers. Even Ratchet, aka John Z., is swell in person...or at least that is my recollection from three meetings. He just gets ornery behind the keyboard. I know on his death bed he'll be typing to us....soorryy dav an kehhhhhhv......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

I only see different part numbers. We need accurate information! These are all for Brembo 32mm 120.2799.10 F05 120.2799.30 P32B 120.2799.70 F04 120.2799.40 P432A 120.2799.90 P432C Put the wrong seal in and you might run into trouble, but then again maybe some are inter-changeable. I am not sure why anyone thinks the 120.2799.30 won't work. Did I miss the post?

The only thing similar about the dances is the whiteness. I would have said soullessness, but white people have soul to, but it shows up differently in tribal attributes. Jumpstyle is about freedom and energy. Line dancin' is about conformity and vanity. Line dancin' you might meet hot chicks, but most are married. Jumpstyle you will only get lucky if you are gay, unless you post your moves on youtube and get stalked by very strange women.

Oh, now I get it. Your dipstick is to within a millimeter the same as Ratchets and mine. 3.5Liters brings it 0.69" above our high mark, and this corresponds to the high mark that Ratchet measured. With your measurement being a wet 0.23" below the upper gasket, in metric that is 5.8mm, not the 18.23mm that I mistakenly thought you were implying. The 18.23mm is a result of 5.8mm plus how far off vertically the mark was from the fill level. Thanks for the clarification! I might have to double check the numbers, but it sure looks like Greg was correct when he said to measure with dipstick un-threaded. as there is a difference of about 13mm (vertically) or 11/16" (17-18mm) (along the dipstick) What is the depth of the threads? Probably about 17-18mm. Now the 4 quart method makes more sense. I wonder 4 liters will fit under the sloppage sheet????...and not blow oil???

Here is a simple PDF manual http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/mot...orkshop_manuals Elsewhere there is an HTML one that may be a little better resolution, but more outdated.

It is very close. If there were a pillion, I think the deer would have given them a fright. Maybe the front hoof is inline with clocking the hypothetical pillion in the head.

Nobody is judging negatively. Last night I spent two hours doing "jumpstyle" tutorials. I can't believe I have missed out on this rage. I don't think I will have to buy titanium and carbon fiber replacement parts now as I think I lost two pounds just last night jumping But why aren't more women into it?

That indicates the stand switch is functioning as designed and idle switch or relay would be suspect. If neutral light cuts out at same time suspect neutral switch. If neutral light stay lit, suspect relay.

Thanks, it makes more sense now. Previously I thought you had the right dipstick, but it wasn't really relevant anyway as you must have been doing math to figure out the vertical oil level. FWIW the "normal" dipstick is marked from the face of the dipstick head High 157 mm Low 186 mm I think Brian is looking for an update on what level you settled on.

Nice duck by the rider! You can see the shadow pass behind the bike but I'll bet the rider will swear the deer jumped over him. I can't believe that does not have a five star rating

Welcome to the forum! I know Carl dubbed it Frankensport because of all the parts it was sourced from, but I expect an ugly bike when I hear the name. That is one nice looking V11Sport! And looks even finer all polished up.

Your measurements against the dipstick differed from Ratchet's by only about 3mm. He got 23mm and you got 18.23mm, using different technique, dry vs. oil. Was that with modified dipstick or before modification? Ratchet got

At my last valve adjustment the left exhaust had tightened the rocker freeplay to a little less than 0.05mm. Should something be done when the valves tighten up that much? Obviously one should re-adjust the rocker. But is it an indication that one might need new seats or new valves? At 40,000 miles I imagine my valve stems are pretty worn, so it is probably time to replace. The last five valve adjustments it MAY have tightened up maybe 0.04, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03 and now 0.15 totalling 0.25mm. Can we assume that the valve seat recessed and wore nearly 0.25mm? I guess a compression test is in order. EDIT compression tested OK 135PSI Left and 140PSI Right on a slightly warmed up engine. I should do a better reading with engine hot. I suppose I should be getting more like 150PSI, but I am relieved that I don't have a big right to left difference. Adding oil boosted both cylinders 5PSI. Maybe it will need new rings soon. Oil consumption could be better. I can only assume that when hot I had no rocker freeplay, and the valve may be cracked from overheating When I started getting variable idle speeds I reset TPS and TBs and the problem continued, but I should have checked the tappet clearance immediately upon discovering the half tuneup did not fix it. Mea maxima culpa Oh, OK that makes me feel better

I thought I would throw a wrench into the works Feel free to ignore as this is stuff that few will ever encounter, but I find it is interesting, and POSSIBLY relevant. Thinking that if the state of tune at idle was off a little, you might get scatter as the ECU map moves from between cells. But I don't know if the analog output is averaged between cells or if the changes are sudden. I am sure someone here knows. Check out the ignition advance curves for the standard map and the Ti ECU map. It looks like with the Ti map one might get some advance surges from 12 to 15° as the idle drops towards 900RPM. The stock ECU does not do this till it approaches 700RPM, but it does transition from 9 to 12° at 518° X 1300RPM. I suppose one might hit this transition if the idle and TPS are both set too high. Note: idle is not in the bottom row of cells, but rather it should be about 3.4-3.8 EDIT here is the fuel chart FWIW I looked on the map for the point that I thought a mis-set TPS would show the worst change and all I could come up with was the transition shown above from 10.43 to 11.84 which equates to about 175mv. So if you set the TPS and were off by 175mv at 3200RPM at those that throttle transition, it would go up 8 units which corresponds to Air Fuel ratio change of about 12%. So, if you were at an A:F of 14.0:1 it might drop to about 12.3:1, which would not be so bad, but it was already at 13:1 it might drop to 11.3:1. Worse of course would be the other direction and it were too lean. But that is a worst case scenario. The average cell transition is 275mv, not 175mv and most cell transitions are much less than 12% change in fueling per 175mv of TPS. Nobody should be setting there idle TPS to 350 nor 700mv. Most TPSs will be set within the recommended range so the variation will probably only be about a seventh as bad as that so, equivalent to a less than a 0.2:1 air:fuel ratio difference between maybe 500 and 525mv. Most map cell transitions are much milder. This of course does not take into account the other tables in the map, and as always, my math and theory may be way off Still I think some will be able to detect a difference in how the engine feels from just a 10mv change. Also, I think anyone who splurged for a custom PCIII map should be a bit more diligent at setting the TPS and other settings very close to how it was when dyno-tuned.

Some day we'll evolve into computers

From another thread I think this could be the perfect starter wife for BMG Here are some photos of her, aging pretty well. http://www.flickr.com/photos/kittykowalski...in/photostream/

Yah, so not very likely the pads should have worn that quickly. Mine last about 10,000 to 15,000 of mostly front brake only use. My money is on sticky piston/seal relationship in the caliper. But of course you should check your master, too. Seems wise to me. I would not sell that caliper even to my worst enemy.

How many miles did you have on the pads and when were they brakes last bled? I am curious, because it may give a clue as to what caused the failure. Certainly one pad is worn down, but that could have happened on just one or just a few rides, if the piston was sticking. I don't know what a thin foggy appearance on the rotor indicates.